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5:39 My Windows or router doesn't list the wired connection with the 600n + LaserJet 2100. The green 100 light is on, but never flashes.

I have a early 700 with the original on and off switch that works. I want to keep it that way so I use the switch on a power strip, surge protector to turn it off on with. Much easier to buy another surge protector than doing what you are doing in this video, and cheaper.

I have the CT-F900 deck plus the CT-F750, and 2 CT-F850's. All working.

You can hear it right away on the highs.

That amp can have a turn on surge current approaching 150 amps, so it's very hard on that switch. Also a Unibit works very well for drilling your front panel.

Cousin to my former CTF 650.

That receiver is super sweet. I bet that it sounds really good. I take it you were pushing that in your house and not in an apartment?

Hi How does the feature called compulink work on this tape deck?

wher can i buy that brass throat you have？

Pioneer is my favorite cassette deck, that's a beauty

Big difference. Thanks now I know. I believe if one goes bad both need to be replaced with new woofers from cerwin.

Nice video! I learned something new thanks to you. Going over this morning to a stereo tech repair guy I use to pick up my CT F950 after a major service 👍👍

HI. I just open AL1000 box with bi-amp banana plugs and crossover. I notice that on crossover pcb marked as W+ and W-, wires are connected + to +, - to -, to woofer, but looking at pcb trace, the negative wire from input, from amplifier, is going direct to W+, mean its reversed polarity. Is that normal to be reversed polarity on woofer or its factory mistake?

Extremely helpful, thank you!

I also don't have a DC cable, so I can't use the preamp. I want to get this cable and make one myself. How can I buy one? For reference, I live in Korea.

Super Lautsprecher, ich habe die gleichen. leider ist mir der Hochtöner kaputt gegangen, habe aber Ersatz gefunden

definitely there is a fair amount od difference.

❤❤❤❤

I never had any problem with any cards... the trick is to get an IP to it first...

Well, at least to my ears, I like the original woofer over the orange foam one. I feel the bass is a little more clear than the other one.

Nice job on this repair. I can confirm it cause I now own this amp and is outstanding.

Holy I think this is my Amplifier your working on. I bought it from you. Love the amp. Is doing amazing now that I don’t leave it on 24/7.

Why not just use the Universal HP driver.

I open up (disassemble) my pair of 2440J ...what a mistake ... NEVER NEVER OPEN THEM OR YOU LOSE ALL. Now I must re magnetize them and it cost a lot

I love Pioneer we have it way back 1984 my brother bought it in Brunei

Hello, do you know the calibration procedure for the ML26? Am restoring one and would like to check calibration but have no clue how to do it. Thanks

Thanks to your video I just ordered the new caps set from falcon acoustics. Can't to hear the difference on my set

Hi Eric, Did you ever source a substitute meter for these SA?1 Modutec meters?

I need to know the T/S parameters in order to make a fair comparison.

Commented on DYAudio post about these truly beautiful amps. Have had the silver ones and replaced the perspex meterwindows with real glass. And it is of course static electricity...

How does it sound?Neutral to warm or neutral to bright sounding?I remember that marantz cd players had to much uppermids extension?How is the bass?Deep/strong or just ok.

I just watched your video, then I watched one from Kohler and noticed a big difference. The black rubber seal is not supposed to be wrapped around the top metal part (as it is in your video and was in mine). It has to be on the threads of the plastic piece (it acts like a gapper just like the o-ring you added). If you over tighten the top part, it pushes the rubber seal off the threads and you lose your clicking ability. The rubber seal is also directional, one way it stays flipped up after sealing, and the other way it stays down.

Thanks Eric. I tried both procedures you described but it didn't improve...

Hello Eric, I am having exactly the same issues. I wanted to update my HP 4000 printer with a GB ethernet jetdirect card 625N (officially compatible) to replace my 600N which always worked perfectly. When I put on the new card , it gave an IP address but I think it was a fixed IP from the former owner; I tried to put it in the second EIO slot and it didn't work either. Since then, I have been trying to go back to my old faithful 600N. The configuration page tells me for both ports: "not handled (Code class 7F803C)" . I tried a cold reset but no difference. I am going to try several cold resets in a row as you suggest. But it really worries me that my 600N (which also had a fixed IP), is not recognised anymore. The EIO menu is not accessible anymore... Any advice ? Thanks for any help

The original woofer definitely sounds more dry. The kick drum has more body and weight to it via the DXW15 woofer from Dx9. That woofer is vented also and can stand a beating. Do you have any thought as to why this is? Is the cone way to light or thin on the original woofer compared to DXW15?

Definitely a big difference. With that said I have a pair of 104/2s replaced ferrofluid and reformed donuts .. they don’t sound muffled like your original. I’m fact I played them side by side to my PMC GB1is and Joseph Audio RM22xl and the Kef was as dynamic, detailed and loud. The JA and the Kef bested the little PMC by quite a bit re soundstage and realism. PMC won out for sheer cleanliness but a bit dry.

There is clearly a change in the frequency response of the KEFs. However, which is flattest is going to be difficult to measure.

Hello Eric, I've watched your repotting N1200s videos several times. I am wondering if you contract yourself to do a rebuild? I have three N1200s that I've had since the 80s and sadly they are sounding a little ill,

Ohio Players rule...

That’s an impressive difference! Did you also have the tweeter ferro fluid restored in the one on the left, or maybe the tweeter isn’t operating correctly on the one on the right and it needs its ferro fluid changed ? it’s hard to believe just the crossover caps would make that substantial of an impact, the highs are so much more dull on the right hand speaker, it’s almost like the tweeter isn’t functioning.

Thank u. I like it. I want to watch part 3.

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I have ever seen lot of speaker exchange mistakes

Great video! I have the CD 48...looks just like this one. My question is how do you remove the cover as it seems to be stuck on the front end. I do not want to force it. Any help will be appreciated.

Yes, big improvement, right away.

Huge difference clearly audible even through my phone. How old are these speakers?

I have had the same issue with at least two of these as well, replaced with new OEM part and problem came back in less than a year......

Hi Eric, How easy is it to take them apart. Do you have a video of disassembling them? Also where did you buy the brass throat?

Very helpful... In Win 10, I used the "my printer is a little older" option with the 'cold reset', and that did the trick for me; as it cleared-out the old IP address imbedded on the card. I am using a HP JetDirect 600n with an old HP Laserjet 2200 (that still prints like a champ!).

Is it possible to get any/all documentation and/or tips for your Threshold 400a and 4000? Thanks!