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Since the new taillight bulb is working but the message is still present, it suggests that the issue may not be related to the bulb itself but to how the vehicle's system is interpreting the bulb replacement. Here are some potential reasons and steps you can take to clear the message: 1. **Electrical Resistance Issue**: Mercedes vehicles are sensitive to changes in electrical resistance. Even if the bulb is working, the car's monitoring system might not detect it if the resistance is off. This could happen if: - The new bulb is not OEM or not of the same wattage/resistance as the original. - There's corrosion or dirt on the bulb contacts or connectors, which can affect resistance. 2. I’m assuming this will clear it - **Tail Light Control Module Reset**: The vehicle's control module may not have automatically reset after detecting the new bulb. In this case, you can try: - Disconnecting the battery for 10-15 minutes to force a reset of the car's electrical systems. - After reconnecting the battery, the warning should reset if the system detects the correct resistance. 3. **Fault Codes Need Clearing**: Even though the bulb is working, the vehicle may have stored a fault code in its system. You can clear these codes using an OBD-II scanner. Some higher-end scanners or diagnostic tools are needed for Mercedes-specific codes. You could: - Visit an auto parts store where they might offer free OBD-II code reading and clearing. - Use a Mercedes-specific OBD-II tool (like iCarsoft or similar) if you have one or take it to a mechanic or dealership to clear the codes. 4. **Check for Other Lighting Issues**: Sometimes, the message may stay on if there's an issue with other related lights (like brake lights, reverse lights, or another taillight). It's worth double-checking all rear lights to ensure everything is functioning correctly. If the above steps don't resolve the issue, it may be best to consult with a Mercedes specialist or dealership who can diagnose more complex problems, such as a potential fault in the tail light control module or central gateway.

Yes, the 2012 - 2015 Mercedes ML350 Bluetec and the 4Matic models take coolant in the same way. Both vehicles use the same basic cooling system design, where the coolant is added to the coolant reservoir or expansion tank. It's important to use the correct type of coolant specified by Mercedes-Benz, typically a blue or pink Mercedes-approved coolant, to ensure optimal performance and prevent any damage to the engine or cooling system components. Always check the owner’s manual for specific instructions and coolant types. Hope this helps.

@@IvanSchlachter thank you!

Great idea!!! Was it a really quick job?

Thanks man! I appreciate that. If you go to a site like FCP Euro looks like you can replace everything for less than $600 with Genuine MB parts. However looks like the OE parts have been discontinued or backordered on that site. I would usually go with aftermarket OE parts because these companies usually manufacture these parts for MB. At 100k it’s hard to spend money on Genuine MB parts but you want to make sure they fit. I might see if I can find OE on some other site and if not than maybe try parts by Febi Bilstien which are inexpensive and decent.

@@IvanSchlachterwow thanks so much for the swift response! I’ve done extensive research myself and apparently this is a common issue with the 2012 and up ML 350.

Yes, it can be a bit crowded behind there and makes it a bit challenging - it becomes a test of your dexterity but not bad. Try to pay it no mind and just focus on getting the blown bulb out and replacing it with the new one. Assuming you had success?

Yes, got it down as you described it…patience prevailed!

It’s a great vehicle, and pretty easy to work on. you’ll be happy with your purchase. I’ve got a bunch of DIY videos for the W166.

If it’s not opening, I would try inserting the key the other way and/or turning it the opposite direction than I initially showed in the video. It should open if you insert and turn clockwise but it’s always best to try different ways if that doesn’t work at first. Hope this helps.

Good question: With the engine off, the fully charged battery voltage will measure 12.6 volts. This is known as “resting voltage.” When the engine is running, battery voltage will typically rise to 13.5 to 14.5 volts. The battery will be boosted to these higher levels by your new functioning alternator. Hope this helps and good luck.

I only use Mobil 1 European Formula 0w-40

NP - here is a link to that video. Have fun. ruclips.net/video/qT3waT6O0qw/видео.htmlsi=-tdPa5KLIbkvrpwp

when replacing the front brakes, you don't have to disengage the parking brake. However, when replacing the rear brakes, you must move the parking brake into the fitting position. You can do so through the menu. Hope this helps

I used an E12. You can also use a normal 3/8 ratchet if you don’t have an E12.

😂

Hi... Good question. After I installed the battery, I started it right up and drove it, no issues at all. I do have an Autel MD808P MaxiDiag but I didn't have to use it. I also don't recommend spending the money for this device because there are several Bluetooth ODB2 devices that connect to apps and have better interface and functionality than my Autel. That being said, I don't think you will need to reset the ECU after swapping the battery. This is from my personal experience. However, if you still would like to reset the ECU or your ML350, here is how without an ODB2 device. Some people say your vehicle will not switch gears out of park afterwards if you don't do this. Again, this was not the case for me so I will argue this. But if you'd like to, here are the steps to reset the ECU: - If you have Keyless Go, pop off the Keyless Go button - Insert the key - Turn the key to "ON" - not start - and leave it "ON" for more than 2 minutes - Turn the key to "OFF", but leave the key "IN" for at least 10 seconds - After at least 10 seconds, turn the key to "ON", push and hold the brake, turn the key to "START" and the car should start. Verify that you can switch gears. - If you have Keyless Go replace the Keyless Go button

That's insane, I'm glad you took the initiative and changed it yourself. Nice work!

Personally I change mine without fail every 10k miles. I plan to keep this car running well as long as I can.

Hi Ian, I don't have that engine in front of me but I am looking at diagrams. Fo your engine, it looks like the coolant temperature sensor is located on the rear of the left cylinder head. Let me know if you have any luck.

Hi found it as at front near the thermostat, after changing that and the fan !!! It was the AC sensor and a re gas all done thank god .

Ko priključite zavorne senzorje, bo avto samodejno zaznal in sporočilo bo izginilo, dokler ste zamenjali zavorne ploščice in senzorje.

That makes sense, this will definitely eliminate the squeak. The squeak we had after cleaning our windows was piercing.

haha, I did use a lot... But it's gonna be ok

It’s a P21W bulb.

Thanks!

If the shop uses full synthetic 0W-40 and the proper OEM filter it should cost a lot more. The dealership will only use the correct products but they charge accordingly.

Yes, if your car never had a keyless remote you will definitely need to have the fob programmed. You can go to the dealer or if you' know how and have the right software, you can do it yourself. I've never done it myself.

Yes, even if the battery is dead or completely missing, you can still start the car as long as you insert it into the ignition and twist it clockwise.

You're welcome

Honestly I don’t remember what size it was but if you look at the new screw and make sure the but a little smaller then that, it will unravel when you go through.

@@IvanSchlachter and the same can be done on the back rotors too?

@@bossman2819 yes, in fact I didn’t have to drill either of the screws on the back rotors. They came right out and I reused them. I hit them with penetrating oil and pushed down hard as I gently turned counterclockwise

@IvanSchlachter I tried that on Sunday and they didn't move at all

Thank you for saying that!!

No, I’ve never seen that before? What it previously in an accident?

Nah

No, I’ve never had AC issues but I’ve had heating issues regarding distribution of zones. Are any zones getting cold for you? If not, you’re probably spot on, sounds like the compressor.

Oh you went through the glove box? That’s a little more difficult than going through from under the hood. Plus, like you said, MB has a third filter accessible only via under the hood. Haha, overkill yes, but I guess we have very clean expensive air in our cabin.

Sorry to hear that. What does it do when you hold the buttons down?

The 2010 (2011 and older) models will be a different configuration but similar.

Probably just residual from the last top off. Good sense of detail though.:)

Mine was got a new cap. No more residue.

You bet