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Hi from Oz again, I forgot to add this link from a guy that recently made a similar comparison, he does does emphasis the need for good glass, the guys name is Gavin Hardcastle who does some incredible work. I'm at a loss as to why your Oly pics were so poor, no conspiracy theories from me mate, I really enjoy your channel but I'm also so pleased I changed from Canon to Olympus. Please have a look at the video clip if you get time. Horses for Courses mate 👍 ruclips.net/video/5dZrL4YNILA/видео.htmlsi=CxtKXY2ar4jbU32b

Hi from Oz again, there's no doubting the quality of Nikon products. I have just recently changed from Canon to OM-1 & have just returned from a trip in Japan & all/majority my images are totally pin sharp. I have been told that the OM-1 is a big improvement in the processing time for the hi-res shots but have heard of no bad quality as you have experienced. I have never had such poor images as your tests results show & cannot give an explanation why they are that way. Some are saying that OM System workspace should be used, I don't use it. I don't use Lightroom either but still I am completely happy with my results. It will be very interesting to see if a reason why is found.

Love seeing someone discover and get excited about the features Olympus/Om systems packs into their camera's. I love live composite, bulb mode, the built in ND filter, and AF tracking modes on my OM-1. I also shoot Sony but I am serious thinking of dumping it and shooting with my OM-1 full time again. My OM-1 with 2 lenses, 2 batteries, charger, and teleconverter still weighs less than my Sony paired with my tamron 35-150mm

I see starburst effect on the windows on Olympus shot. I think you used a small aperture value and it lead to an image heavily influenced by lens diffraction. Nevertheless, quite informative and original content. Keep the videos coming !

The poor results you got with the Olympus may be due to not turning off the IBIS when the camera was on a tripod. However, that said it has been reported by others that the hires images require more sharpening than the original 20mp files. I would be interested in your thoughts.

I bought an Olympus, very disappointing knew it would not be as good as my Canon R5, but the Olympus is very noisy even at low iso, my old Sony A5100 is better than the Olympus!

Il keep my time tested and proven results of my nikons

Very nice indeed ! Enjoyed the different shutter speeds 👍

I believe you are trying your best, but the results you are getting do not match my experience of m43. I went from Canon 5D IV 32MP to OM1 mk1, after 40 happy years with Canon, and find the OM to be sharp (and half the weight). I generally shoot hand held 50MP unless there is movement in the scene and then review result at 200% to eliminate anything that is not pin sharp. There are so many variables that might be affecting your results I cannot begin to identify your issues. Maybe the lens, maybe settings, maybe your older camera is not working as well as my OM1. I found Lightroom and ON1 to be bad with my OM1. The free OM sw is better but DXO is best so far. But Lightroom cannot be 100% the reasons for soft results. My first results with OM where not great. It did take me a few weeks to consistently get sharp results, but I am glad I persisted. My 50MP are probably not as sharp as a real 50MP sensor, but I can easily beat a 32MP camera on a tripod while hand-holding my OM1. Anyway, well done for trying.

Really enjoyed this Dave very inspirational thanks.

Great vlog Dave, happy memories of a good few days in Norfolk

I just did a quick test with my EM1 mk2 on a tripod using the Sigma 56mm prime at f5.6 of the church steeple some distance away. Shot 1. IBIS on, shot 2. IBIS off, shot 3. 50mp HR (automatically turns IBIS off). Image magnified 14x on the back of the camera, shot 1 good, shot 2 marginally better, shot 3 much better and totally sharp. Opened in LR and the standard res was quite a bit sharper than the HR image, both shot in RAW. Opened in OM WS and the HR images was slightly cleaner and sharper than the standard image. OM WS is a bit of a fag. I guess if you really want HR buy a better sensor and I would imagine the Nikon would totally clean up in that respect.

I've compared the output from the Z8 (45MP) and OM1.2 20MP, 50MP and 80MP and the Nikon always looks far better. Add the fact that Z8 can take it's own hi-res mode and it's simply no contest. However, that doesn't mean the OM1 is bad, I love that camera, but for shots that I want to print big OR crop the hell out of, the Nikon takes the day every time. For macro, I could use either one quite happily. Where the OM1 wins is in the computational modes (LiveTime and LiveComp, Live ND and Live GND) that the Nikon simply doesn't have. I'm not biased and love both systems, but they each have their strengths and weaknesses.

Thanks for sharing Dave, good video as always.

I have an OM-D E-M1 Mark II wirh a 12-40 pro lens and it's pin sharp on my landscape shots I even have some hand held of Southwold pier better than your attempt with the Olympus. Agree it's not the best for noise/resolution but very good. Interestingly I had an issue last year in Wales photographing the red kites. I lent my spare camera to my wife with a 40-150 and she was getting sharp shots I had a 300mm f4 and my shots were not sharp. I tried everything and was getting very frustrated I then in desperation took off the Hoya pro UV filter and it resolved the issue. I will never use a UV filter again.

Did my own tests involving a Nikon Z7 45 MPX FF camera, a Z6III 24 MPX FF and my OM-1, and testing the various pixel shift / high res modes on the Z6 and OM-1. Also threw in Topaz upscaling and Lightroom Enhanced resolution. The outcome? Of the high resolution images, the Z7 was clearly superior by a mile. In second place was Lightroom's AI upscaling, beating out the in camera OM and NX Studio Nikon multi-shot images, neither of which offered anything over the standard single shots. This was done in pretty much perfect conditions in my back garden. This supports the previous tests I've done - basically the right res modes offer little or nothing over post processing of a single image

Thanks for explaining diffraction in a simple way! I’ve know of it, and how to avoid it with my cameras, but never heard anyone explain it in simple terms. Cheers! I also wasn’t aware of the difference a micro 4/3 sensor had on aperture compared to full frame. Life is constantly learning isn’t it. Great video 👍

Pointless! What an idiot

Well,I’ll,throw my 2 pence in. 1/ use a pro lens 2/ turn off image stabilisation to be totally sure 3/ use manual focus and use magnify to get image tack sharp 4/ set the 2 second timer 5/ hold your breath 6/ view at home a superior image than Nikon or at least as good 7/ I totally recommend using manual focus to be absolutely sure it’s in focus 8/ good luck, I wish you well. Be good to get another m43 ambassador on YT

I bought one for short movies, mainly. The ergonomics are out of this world! The colors destroy Panasonic (although I know I’m missing a lot of video features).

Image stabilisation!!!

I can confidently say that I have not had such an awful outcome from handheld or tripod hi-res shots with my OM-1. There is some fundamental issue, whether it is Lightroom (which I detest, in spite of being told it is 'industry standard'), the EM-1x or your settings I don't know.

My dude, pls cut your pointy finger nail 😂 Anyhow, the EM1X is a phenomenal camera..i have one as well

Even with tripod use a delayed shutter release.

Great images Dave and location. I just found a little gem of a forrest at Upper Hollesley Common Heath.Your a man after my own have a great retirement, we're off to the lakes next week.

Well done for having another go. I have a om5 and the 12 to 45 f4 and it is really sharp. The only suggestion I can make is see if the firmware is up to date, being an older model they may have improved hi res over time. The Nikon looks great.

Just a thought, are you using a pro lens with the manual clutch set to manual focus and not auto focus?

OM ambassador please reach out and go out to demonstrate OM1 (either) as titles on these videos and the apparent results will put off people who potentially could adopt system

I think a little expectation management is needed. The 80M image will not be as sharp as a native high res image. It is using clever maths to interpolate between multiple 20M images which are slightly offset from each other and infer what the missing pixels might be. It's similar to drizzling in astrophotography. It will extract more information than was in a single 20M file but it will not be the same (or close) to a native image.

LORDY! Not sure what you are doing wrong here, but something is going wrong. I mean I 100% percent handhold my high resolution shots and my results are always stellar. But I'm always using pro glass like my 17mm 1.2.

Looks like you repeated the typical HR rookie mistakes. Olympus HR/HHHR files need more aggressive sharpening and you didn’t use proper tripod technique with shutter delay (apparent motion artifacts). Yes the Nikon ought to be easier to use and more tolerant of less than perfect technique, which in itself makes it a better choice perhaps but it would a better comparison still if you had used proper shooting and post processing techniques. It takes away the credibility of your comparative effort unfortunately.

Try processing the High Res images with OM Workspace, it has been reported that Lightroom does not handle these well resulting in blurred images.

Another thought. The RAW file of the high res Olympus images is a complex one. It embeds the first image in full, then the composite. I have seen reports that Lightroom does not render these properly. Photoshop does apparently.

The Olympus automatically turns off IS in this mode. But I note that some have found that IS in the LENS can mess it up.

Echos my findings- Oly hi-res modes do not create a sharp result. Standard 20mb files are far sharper!! Love my OM Systems cameras but have given up using HHHR or tripod HR .

Hi Dave, I think you mentioned at the beginning of the video you've used the EM1X with great success for macro and sport photography. The high res shots definitely look like there's some camera shake or sensor shake but I see a lot of comments below on various possibilities. I'll add another in there. Any chance the focus limiting in camera was on? I can imagine if you're shooting macro with the camera, you might have a setting where the focus is limited to very close objects. Doubt that it's the issue here. Or subject detection? As a bit of an exercise, I went back and looked at some older 16MP Olympus files that I had, albeit, they are now jpegs sitting in Apple Photos, so not a great comparison. Definitely, pixel peeping on those old files makes me want to go out and immediately buy a full frame for landscape, but they were good for social media, 8x10s, and occasionally up to 13x19inch prints. I can say that because my wife paints and she's used some of my photos and likes them printed at 13x19. I wonder also if the lens you have isn't a good copy. I'm guessing you are using different lenses for macro, landscape, and sports shooting. Personally, in your position, for landscape I think you've come to the right conclusion, even if you can sort out the EM1X to take better landscape photos. Those Nikon files you were showing looked quite nice.

To be honest, you didn’t know how to use that EM-1X properly. To do a demonstration like that is very misleading and very unfair to the m43 community. I suggest you increase the shutter speed for your hand-held high res shots and compare them in a static scene and compare them side by side. There is no way the 80 megapixel image will be outperformed by the 45 megapixels Nikon. I own both and OM-1 and a Nikon Z9 and I know with static scenes, this is not the result we will see.

I think you should do that test again with a screen test chart at home just to make sure there is nothing wrong with the camera, I would set the cameras on manual and use at least a two second timer! your test made my very basic camera look good. Best wishes and safe travels......(with your Nikon, leave the other at Home)

The Olympus also produces a .ORI file, which is the first (20Mpx) version of the Hires set. This is intended as a fallback. This is also very useful to quality check the Hires file. But Adobe in all their wisdom refuse to recognise ORI as an extension. But if you just change ORI to ORF it will work. Then you have an apples to apples check. Also, for the Olympus Hires file you can, and should, go absolutely nuts with the sharpness slider in Lr. And bump the radius up too. Having said all that, as a long term Olympus user, I‘ve found Hires to be extremely variable, and sometimes fails for no obvious reason - and indeed sometimes works when I don’t expect it too. But I only ever use it routinely for film „scanning“, when it is absolutely locked down. I would never rely on it for high resolution landscape photography. Note, same applies for the OM-1. If you’re after high(er) resolution and 20Mpx is not enough, then honestly I‘d stop futzing around with the Olympus :-). Personally, and speaking also as a Hasselblad X System Medium Format system owner, I find the OM-1 at 20Mpx (and indeed OM-5, and their predecessors) very nearly as good in image quality, and far, far more practical and enjoyable to use in the field.

m43 is a fun carry around secondary system. but it can never replace nikon full frame when it comes to image quality. the hi res mode is a nice hack but it's limited because nothing in your frame can move at all. also the lenses aren't really designed for 80mpx and they can't resolve at that resolution.

You can take the Olympus hi-res tripod at 1/15 shutter, I have done this with water and it has worked, but there was a lot of static rocks in the scene too (not sure that matters). But I have had a similar experience with olympus Hi-Rez being soft; my Panasonic GH6 high Rez mode looks much much better than my olympus EM 1 mark iii Hi-Rez mode.

Olympus had always recommended that IBIS need to be turned off when the camera is on a tripod, high res or not. In high res, the camera shifts the sensor to create the multiple shots. If you have left IBIS on, it will certainly compromise the camera's ability to create the multiple shots!

Image stabilisation should be set to off. The problem with tripod high res mode is everything needs to be rock solid. A cable release is essential (you can see the movement in your 80mp image). Also, the best results require the use of OM System workspace.

If your subject has no or very little movement the tripod mode can deliver great results. Though you might find that a lot of things have movement { wind moving vegetation , water, and so on} . I own both Nikon Z and m43 , the tripod mode can give very good results both regarding detail and colour , the HHHR gives a small increase in detail and a better improvement in noise etc. Both modes need careful sharpening. There are a couple of very good tutorials and how to guides on the m43 forum on DPreview by a poster called MEDISN, they are the most bookmarked in the forum so easy to find . I can't post a direct link as YT does not like it 😀

I have owned numerous Olympus cameras and own a OM1 and Nikon Z8 the Z8 will outperform the Hi-Res on the Olympus. However what shutter mode were you using on the Olympus? You can have electronic (silent) or anti-shock. Your images may be suffering from shutter shock if its set to standard mode

You mention 80mpixel files.. I must be doing something wrong because I can only get 25/50 pixel files in hi-res mode... Whether in handheld or tripod setting. Any advise anyone?

Something weard: in film you see Nikon at the left Olympus on the right. In Photoshop the position of the Nikon is on the right Olympus on the left. Look for th two poles ontheft foreground

Morning Dave, an interesting video, I'm looking forward to hearing Roger's feedback is on this one, as again I'm not sure that you've done the Olympus justice, having used the system for a number of years. A few items that you may wish to consider: * quality of glass - I didn't hear you mention which lens was used, but from the glimpses of the front element I wonder if it is one of the Pro range, if not I'd certainly look to upgrade to ensure that you get the benefit of the weather-proofing, this is also going to have a bearing upon the image quality * turn off image stabilisation if on a tripod, leaving on auto-IS is not the same * you didn't appear to be using any shutter release or delay, so physically pressing the shutter button could introduce some movement, that I accept was the same on each camera but the way high-res mode works could exaggerate this However, as someone else has already commented, I think that the biggest thing could be that the camera is getting confused as it is trying to align the various frames when part of the image is moving, so it would be interesting if you were to repeat the test (yet) again but maybe on a static scene. If this is the case then I accept that if seascapes is your thing then the Olympus high-res mode may not be for you. I've used it for static landscape images and been very impressed with the outcome. Having said all of the above, you may well find that the Nikon is still best for landscapes. As you rightly said, the Olympus excels at macro and some of the computational tools that assist for wildlife & sports photography, the gear is also a lot smaller & lighter to carry, something to bear in mind when hiking around Glencoe and wanting to carry a range of lenses. Keep up the great work.

My om-1 mk2 hhhr can not match my Z8, or my GFX 50Smk2.. But your image look too soft, I use HHHR a lot with 12-40 f2.8 pro stop down@ F8, my image look a lot sharper than yours.

I shoot Sony A7 61mp FF. I also have Fuji X Pro 2 and OM 1 II. I am trying to understand what’s going wrong here. I really like my OM1 because the High Res, Focus stacking and HDR modes all work so well. The HHHR images from my OM1 really are very nice indeed. I have no complaints. I’m wondering if the issue here is the lens? Are you using an old beer bottle?