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Hello Mot D. Thank you for your comment and kind words. It would be nice to have a million views, but, I won't be holding my breath!

Hello Steven. Why did I extend the top of the door first, then the two sides? Good question, when I was thinking about doing this job I pondered, should I extend the sides then the top, or first the top then the sides? I chose to do the top first for the following reasons: After painting if the joint moved and cracked the paint, you wouldn’t see the crack as it would be on top of the door and not it’s side When doors are constructed, they are made this way, the top and bottom bits (the rails) are always placed inside the side frames (Stiles). So, that’s why I did it that way round. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Paul. Thank you for your kind words. I am glad you found the video of use. I wish you luck in your spring making. Let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim

Hello David Thank you for your question. In short, yes, you can use rapeseed oil, Olive oil and water, all have been used for hundreds of years by blacksmiths. As to which is best. This is a huge subject, which depends on the material you want to heat treat, and what quality you want to impart into that material. I am no expert when it comes to heat treatment, I tend to give something a go and see what I end up with using a piece of scrap. You can get an indication of hardness with a file, but use the end of the file, the part you don’t generally use, it doesn’t matter if you blunt it by filing something hard. Bending your test piece in a vice will give you an indication of its ductility. There is a huge amount of information online, I suggest you have a search, you will be able to find what you are looking for. I hope this helps. Take Care Jim

Hello David. You are absolutely correct, I used the wrong word and thank you for pointing it out. For people reading this who do not know the difference between ANNEALING & TEMPERING: Annealing is used to soften and make materials more workable, reducing hardness significantly. That is what I did at the beginning of the video so I could bend the spring steel. Tempering is used to improve the toughness and ductility of hardened materials. That's what I needed to do with the spring after it was shaped and hardened again. Take Care Jim

Quite right Buddy.

Hello LockBits. Glad you agree. Thank you. Take Care Jim

Hello Supergirl It saddens me to find you didn’t like this video. I suppose you can’t please everyone. Take Care Jim.

Hello Nick Thank you for your comment and question. As you probably know all steels are made from iron. As the iron is processed different materials are added depending on what particular characteristics you want the final steel to have. For instance, if you want stainless steel then the iron will be mixed with chromium molybdenum, carbon, nickel and nitrogen. Spring steels are typically made up of medium-to-high carbon steel, they also contain manganese and silicon. Can you process normal steel to make it into a good spring? I would say it is possible, but it’s going to be difficult in a home workshop. Search on Google there is a huge amount of information out there. If I need to make a springy something, I would start with spring steel. Hope this helps. Take Care Jim

Thank you for your kind words. Take Care Jim

Hello Torjie. If your bit gets stuck in the end of the driver then do this. Strike the side of the bit with some thing light and hard, a screw driver shaft or a spanner, or a small hammer, work round the out side of the bit. If the bit still wont come out then hold the adaptor of the screwdriver in the vice then repeat what I said above. That should free the most stuck bits. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Chris. Sorry, I'm not a teacher at the local polytechnic. I'm just a retired chap playing in his workshop. So glad you enjoyed the videos, they are fun to make but do take a surprising amount of time to produce. I lived in New Zealand for a year or so, I was based in Auckland, worked at the university as a technician in the thermodynamics lab. 1981-82 I think it was. New Zealand is a fantastic place, I almost stayed, but family ties pulled me back to UK. Take Care and thanks again for your comment. Jim

Hello Jean. Thank you for your comment and kind words. I’m glad the video was useful to you. Take Care Jim.

Hello Jonathan. I'm glad you found the video helpful, thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Will. I'm glad you found the video interesting, Swarfega works well, although I'm not too keen on the smell. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Denis. I hope you are well. That spherical turning tool took a time to make, but it does work well. Thank you for your continued support of the channel. Take Care Jim

Hello Jonathan. Unfortunately at the moment I do not have a video showing how to set the valve clearance. I do intend to produce one, and I'm hoping it will be in the next couple of months. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello @egect1, Thank you for your kind words, I am so glad you find my videos useful. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello, thank you for your comment. Dividing heads are closely related to indexing heads, but with a key operational difference: Indexing heads use a scale and show the angle of rotation (from 0 to 360 degrees), while dividing heads use pre-defined plates to rotate a fixed amount. These plates are generally circular with multiple rows of equally-spaced holes. Hope that makes it clear for you. Take Care Jim

@@CYC123 thanks for your reply 🥰

Hello Sane. Yes I received your last mail and I replied to it. Is this a free service you offer?

@@CYC123 NO

@@sane52668 Then I think this will be my last mail to you. Good bye.

Hello Destin. Years ago I had a shadow board on the wall, as my collection of spanner’s and tools grew the shadow board became too large. What you see now was my answer to condensing the amount of wall I needed. It seemed a good idea, but it took ages to make. However it does work rather well, (smug smile you can’t see). Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Ok, thank you. Take Care Jim

Hello Peter. I’m pleased you enjoyed my video, thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello James. I am glad you liked the video, thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Norskitana. I’m glad my video was useful to you. Thank you for your comment. Take care Jim

Hello Deep blu dude. I’m so glad you found the video of use. It’s always good news to hear another old BMW is hitting the road. I hope you have many miles of trouble free riding. Thank you for your comment. Take care Jim

Hello Isuru. Thank you for your comment. The straight grip handle is the one that looks like a wooden file handle. This type of handle was probably fitted to the original hacksaws, I know it was very popular 50 years ago when I was training. The pistol grip handle has also been used for many years now, I think its seen as more comfortable and makes the saw easier to use. Which one do you choose? I would try using both, see which one your prefer. As I did all my training on the straight grip I tend to use that most of all. I hope this helps. Take Care Jim

@@CYC123 thank you very much for kind replies

Hello Jamshed. I’m glad you found my video useful. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Alf. I’m so glad you found the video useful. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello Timothy. Thank you for your comment. I’m so glad you enjoyed the video. Do you have suggestions on other videos I can make concerning the R75/6?

Hello 3D_Printing. Thank you for your comment. I don't know about the maths, but its difficult to win against a tangled cable! Take Care Jim

Hello Austin. Two cables wound in opposite directions, I can see how their twists will cancel each other out. You will have to be on the ball when you roll them back up though. Thank you for your interesting comment. Take Care Jim.

Yep - twist in alternate directions on each loop, stacking them up as you go, then over the length of the cable there's no accumulated twist. On the vac cable storage method illustrated, it would prevent the problem demonstrated at @06:08. As the unwound cable is on the ground, it won't be keeping up with continuous clockwise twists which is what caused that. Alternate the twist on each loop and that just doesn't occur. Gets more acute the longer the cable. Once you get the knack of alternate twist coiling, it's very easy - and to unpack the cable you can just hold one end and throw the cable out; it simply lays out straight without any coils. Critically important for the likes of microphone cables, where coils on the laid cable present a trip hazard so need to be removed before taping the cable down.

Hello Kevin. Well thankyou, I have never heard of the 'under over' method of coiling cables, it seems so obvious now you have pointed it out. Looks like I have another video to make. Thank you for your comment Take Care Jim

Hello Dennis. As always, thank you for your comment and interest in my channel. It's good to hear from you. Take Care Jim

Hello Nick. I think you're right. By just pulling off the spark plug cap as I do, the insulation of the HT lead, and the coil are under the stress of thousands of volts. By shorting the plug out, that HT voltage can't build up, so cant damage anything. The current produced by the ignition coil is very small, so I don't think that would damage the coil windings if the coil is shorted out. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

That pesky little second screw!

Hello White_Wolf79. Thank you for your comment. I'm so glad the video was of use to you. Take Care Jim

Hello shadollzzsha2562. Thank you for your comment and kind words. I'm so glad you found my videos of use. Take Care Jim

Hello Surge101. I like the Mantis Microscope. Looking into the screen is easy and I don't get a neck ache like I did with an old vertical tube type microscope. I have assembled circuit boards, inspected the internals of clocks and used it to locate splinters in my fingers. It was an expensive piece of kit but I'm not disappointed at all. The only thing I wish it did have, is a port for a camera to fit. There is a model with an internal camera but it was far too expensive for me. I hope this helps. Take care Jim

Hello Tosko. Thank you for your comment. I am assuming the plate that holds your points is in the same position and a similar shape to the plate on my bike that is shown in the video. The round points plate fits very snugly into the engine casing. The points plate is made of plated steel, the engine casting is aluminium, dissimilar metals held together like this tend to corrode, I have had this plate become quite tight in my bike, corrosion was the trouble each time. Now some methods to loosen this plate: Spray the joint between the plate and casting with a penetrating oil, repeat this every now and then as you work. Remove the two securing screws from the points plate. The points can be left in position at the moment. There is a bracket on the plate that supports the cam greasing felt. You can try tapping against this where it meets the points plate with a screwdriver and small hammer, I show how to do this in the video as a method to adjust the ignition timing. If the plate starts to move spray more penetrating oil over the joint, then knock the plate back the other way. Keep going back and forth till the plate can be removed. If the plate doesn’t move, then remove the advance-retard unit. Grip the felt bracket with pliers, tap against the pliers in a direction to rotate the plate, first one way then the other. As soon as you see movement spray on more penetrating oil. Now if its still stuck fast there is one other method you can try. With the advance-retard unit and points removed. You will require a long screw (50mm or so), or a length of studding. The thread needs to be the same as the thread on the screw that securers the point on to the plate (M3-M4-M5? Sorry can’t remember which) . Screw this into the tapped hole where the points securing screw came out of, only screw it in about 5mm. Now replace the nut onto the end of the cam shaft to protect the thread, this is the nut that normally secures the advance-retard unit in place. Grab a pair of long nosed pliers, using the nut on the camshaft as a fulcrum point use the pliers to pull on the screw in the plate, that should pull the plate out of the casting. Once the plate is out, clean its outside rim and the casting where it sat with wire wool. Before reassembly wipe copper ease or grease onto the surfaces that touch, this should cut down any corrosion forming once its back together. Please let me know how you get on. Take Care Jim

@@CYC123 I have no words to thank you for your extensive, immediate and very kind response. Their incredible contribution and willingness to help, advise, and the video tutorials are of HUGE help to the small universe of BMW 2v fans... It would be worth a visit, it is something that I would like to do in life, meet such people. wonderful like you and incidentally travel. I am Catalan, from Barcelona and I currently own an R80RT that I am repairing myself with the help of your magnificent tutorials. My friend's motorcycle is the R90S, which I am also getting ready to travel and which had been broken for three years because I did not have the financial resources to take it to the mechanic, until he told me and I decided to try to repair it myself and what I learn from people as altruistic and wonderful as you. Could you tell me where your workshop is in England so I can give you a "tour" and invite you for a pint, a coffee or whatever you like? Of course, I will give you news regarding the stuck plate in question by doing what you suggested.

Hello Catalan. I wish you luck with your repairs. We live in a town called Flitwick in Bedfordshire, its close to junction 12 of the M1 motorway. You are welcome to call in on your travels. There is not much to see, just a man playing in a garage in the back garden. Take Care Jim

Hello Brian. Thank you for your comment, I'm no doctor, just a chap with a workshop in his garden. So glad you enjoyed the video. Thanks again for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello CC-uj6oe. Good luck with your door, I'm sure you will widen it just fine. Take Care Jim

Hello, I am glad you found my video interesting. Thank you for your comment. Take Care Jim

Hello again Mike. I find I don't use my impact driver very often, but when I do need it it works so well, and it doesn't need any power. Take Care Jim

Hello Mike. If you need spring steel it is available on Amazon, search for "Spring Steel Stock". A 1929 Matchless, I assume single cylinder with girder forks. My oldest bike is a 1948 MAC 350cc Velocette. Take Care Jim

Hello @eggycat. So glad you liked my “vid”. Thank you for your comment.

Hello @cicloncl. Thank you for your comment, I am so glad you liked the video. Take Care Jim.

Hello again John. I’m glad my hacksaw has taken you down memory lane. It’s a place I like to visit, and I seem to go there more and more the older I get. Take Care Jim

Hello John. Thank you for your comment. It’s a funny thing, my Dad bought me that hacksaw brand new as I started my apprenticeship in 1971. I don’t see it as an antique, it’s just my old hacksaw, and still the first one I pickup when there is sawing to be done.

Hello FHollis-gw4cc. First of all I must apologise for taking so long to reply. I have just found your comment, not quite sure how I missed it the first time round. Any how, thank you for your kind words, I'm sorry about my accent, but I'm really not good at any others! Anyway, I scratched me "loaf of bread" rubbed the old "mince pies" and went for a "balls and chalk" down the "apple and pairs". At my "digs", I had a nice cup of "rosy lee" while I watching the "Custard and jelly". Now my "north and south" is dry again so I'm off to the "rub a dub" for a "king lear". We all talk like this in England normally! Take Care Jim.

Hello to you. Thank you for your kind words in your comment. I’m so glad you found the video helpful. It’s always good to get feedback, and even better if it’s nice feedback. It’s coming up to service time again, do you have any suggestions as to jobs on the bike you would like explained? Take Care Jim

​@@CYC123 Thanks for the reply. I really want to change my brake fluids and bleed, but I'm nervous about that one. That's one that I have always had someone else do. I think if I saw it done on a bike my age (1976 r75/6) I would have more confidence. A lot of the videos on bleeding brakes are modern bikes and many using special tools to make the job easier.

@@obeythezippy Hello, sorry for the delay in replying to your comment. Bleeding brakes, a fairly easy procedure if you have performed it before. As it happens it’s time to change the brake fluid in my front brake. I will video the process and publish. Unfortunately not sure when I can get to it, I’m quite busy at the moment. Keep an eye on the channel. Take care Jim.

Hello Nigel. Thank you for your comment. You are absolutely correct, the power from the coil must go somewhere. The ignition coil is capable of producing many tens of thousands of volts, its only the spark plug gap and the conditions within the cylinder that keeps it down to the 10,000 - 20,000 volts you see as the engine is running. Pull off the suppressor cap and the voltage from the coil will increase until it can find another path to the bikes ground. On modern bikes if you pull off a suppressor cap from a spark plug as the engine is running, the large rise in ignition voltage can lead to the electronic ignition system being damaged. Your idea to short out the HT pulse at the spark plug is a good one, you know exactly where the pulse is going, and as you say the HT leads and the coil will not get stressed due to HT voltage spikes, and you remove the risk of causing carbon tracking where the high voltage breakdown occurred. But, and there is always a but, I bought my bike in 1974 that's 50 years ago now. The manual told me to pull the HT lead off the spark plug when you are setting up the carburettors, and that is what I have been doing for all of those 50 years. I have never had a problem with an ignition coils, but every ten years or so I change the HT wires and the suppressor caps. Yes shorting out the spark plugs has got to be the safest way to go, but just pulling off the suppressor cap on the 1974 models of 'R' series BMW boxers does not seem to cause a problem.

Hello Blaney1014. Thank you for your comment. Its a funny thing, I'm not normally an aggressive sort of chap but, for some reason when people especially them who should know better, call a gear a cog it makes me see red! I can feel it bubbling under the surface as I type this!