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Thanks for sharing this. I'm looking to do something similar but with a Yaesu FT-710 because it's what I already have. I'm still deciding what to use for an antenna so I'll watch your screwdriver antenna video next.

I hear so much about symetrical grounds run along the ground . but all it does is make a bunch of horizontal antennas that cancel each other out. If you only have a few going to one side it acts as a folded dipole and actually puts out a nice signal in a horizontal way. As long as it matches the coax the radio doesnt care if its a symetrical ground plane which radiates little or a horizontal radiator which gets out there.

I have heard that end fed antennas are the bomb and look forward to testing a 43 footer as it gets it up higher for lower angle signals. Have tried a 19 foot end fed vert and compared to a dipole on the roof and it did about the same. It can be a lot easier to hide a vertical tho. I have used dipoles and a 3 ele tribander for years. Got hamsticks 4 years ago and use them as verticals, horizontal and vertical dipoles, and multiples on a plate for a multiband wspr station. I have always found them to be within 1 db on both xmit and receive to various Websdrs all over US and Australia against EFHW's , full sized verticals and dipoles and even a Magloop which did poorly. For mobile, base or most anything the Hamsticks are awesome as verts or dipoles. Today i setup in a parking lot and found the hamsticks vs a full length vertical were equal.

Great idea!

Thanks for the video ....Can i ask what speakers you are using there. Really nice audio

Sar ji excellent job sar ji Maine yah aapse do teen sal pahle kar Diya

FB job and a very useful addition to a shack.

Hey Ed. You are doing exactly what I have always wanted to do. I had all my radios (Yaesu 2000D and all the accessories and DMU all ready to go in my Lawn Shed. My Father In-Law moved in a took over all my space, I sold all my gear. Now I watch RUclips channels like yours and "Dream again". I would jump back into it again, but worried about my Health and Age now and fear of having it all left behind for my Wife to deal with it when I am gone. Love your setup in the Back Yard, mine was very similar. Keep up those videos, they are keeping my dreams alive. 73 sir. KC9RWE

I found your video extremely interesting and well done! Thank you for sharing this stimulating project. You've truly inspired me, to the point where I've decided to create a similar one. I want to share it on RUclips, and in doing so, I want to thank you for giving me the idea. You've done an excellent job!

Bravo ! Thanks for posting !

If you run 100w how long this battery last?

Nice!!

Clays cool

thanks very much for a detailed and very informative video. I have PR15's and have owned them for many years and they perform very well but I May now consider this upgrade. very best wishes to you from NZ

a chop stick?

Hi, you connected the earth braid to the earth on the case at the box end but you do not show what you connected that braid to at the radio end of the cable.

Ed, thanks fot this nice video, 2 questions how to connect the + and - on the 12 volt with connectors other question can you make a video how it work with 2 antennes ? thanks again

What model was the new crossover?

luv it...very creative!

Thank You, one suggestion is to tie a knot in the cable inside the box so it cannot be pulled out.

Excellent! Thank you for your video. A very timely bias-T build, as I just had a cheap commercial one go bad (very noisy). I'll be building two of these ASAP.

Ed, trust the step bit for the full bore, you will find a more true round bore with it, a standard jobber drill bit walks and creates an oblong hole and distorts the metal. Nice build, I think you motivated me for one myself. Thanks for the video. 73 de k7rcm (Randy)

Ed, I really enjoy your videos. One thing I did want to mention though. I like that you take the time to show the product number on all your projects, but those numbers on Amazon packaging don't seem to mean anything, and I at least can't find anything by searching for them. Maybe I'm doing something wrong. It would be very helpful if you provided links, or at least the ASIN number for each product, which can be found on the Amazon page product listing. That is easily searchable. If there is a way to search those X numbers, please let me know. Not a big deal, but in watching your other videos , I have found that trying to find the exact product you used is somewhat difficult. Thanks again.

Interesting video Ed. Having just gone through a similar process with an Anko brand "ON AIR" sign in my shack I thought it would be interesting to see how others have done this. I did mine a little differently. Switching AC to run a wall wart USB power supply to get 5V seems to be a bit of overkill, I don't like having AC so close to signal lines, even through a relay. I ran my PTT/send relay on 12V (from my shack power supply) with a simple 7805 regulator/heatsink/capacitors to get 5V to run my sign. I have had so many issues with RF interference from wall wart style power supplies, I will do anything to keep them away from my shack.

Brilliant project thanks for sharing. 73 de 7X2TT

fancy

Great project Ed! Thanks!

Ed, i love your videos and determination. I hope I have my wits and drive when I inevitably catch up to you in years of wisdom. 73

really enjoyed your video 6y5ho greetings from Montego Bay Jamaica

Good setup, but require a time to get on the air, I've assemble some similar ham_case for my portable operation ruclips.net/video/6kygpEie-pc/видео.html

Awesome video Ed!

Thank you for this great video. This would really help me out. My antennas are a good 75’ from the shack, doing this will save on buying long lengths of coax. I was curious about how much power you are running through it. Also, how do you think it would work on UHF? Again, great idea!

Nice box. I have a similar one but aluminium.

Great video! I want to build this project, but with one additional modification- I want to add a switch to switch between two radios. Please, correct me if I'm wrong- I think I could use a DPDT switch. Join pin 7 from both radios to the audio transformer, while pin 1 from the radios goes to each end of one side of the switch. Center from that side of the switch goes to the audio transformer. For the PTT, the "tips" from the radios goes to each end of the other side of the switch, and the center of that side of the switch goes to "tip" on the jack. "Sleeves" from the radios join to "sleeve" on the jack. Does this sound like a plan, or am I overlooking something?

Just subscribed. Love your presentation style, and LOVE that you show part numbers in the video. Thanks!

What a great,well explained video.thanks alot.new subscriber 👍

Nice project but won’t there be a big impedance mismatch at the switch? That’s the reason manual antenna switches are built in a specific way and don’t have long wires.

Great video thank you. Im curious the the maximum length of coax that could be used and still get useful power at the antenna? 73.

That junk crossover kills the sound..it's made bad.

Nice setup, good demo, and nice installation. WA6WRE

What do you think are the specs on the transformer?

Outstanding content. Makes me go like, well heck, that’s so simple.

How many watts can you use? Full legal? Great how to video. Easy to follow and well thought out.

Thanks Ed. I am setting up my ham shack now and thought that a keyboard light is good. I would like one with lights through the keys but we will see. Also the desks I am getting are gamer desks with LED light strips and not too expensive so that will help with ambiance lighting at night. Also I have been using these RTL SDR dongles and love em. I bring up two screen capability on my laptop and can watch a whole big waterfall on my tv screen which is cool!! I will send pictures later. Thanks for your videos for such a time as this.

That’s the way to do it Walt! I just happen to have a “monster magnet”!! LOL

You’re amazing!

Hi Ed. Firstly, let me say I appreciate your intention and spirit... a true HAM. I have a few suggestions, and a few critiques. So, right to it: On your praise of these Baomain relays, I bought 2 from Amazon.... they are CRAP! One look tells all... the contacts are VERY POORLY aligned and the contact patch is miniscule. the brackets that hold the upper (NC) pads and the lower (NO)contact pads are leaning every-which-way, so those contacts are not on the same plane as the armature pads. The plastic part of the Armature is so poorly designed that the arms that hold the common pads are not held in alignment, so are as much as 1/8" off center. This results in terrible contact fidelity and therefore sketchy (at best) opportunity for proper low resistance connection.. I am returning them and searching for a quality relay that I can afford. :-) But on to the design suggestions. With a good DPDT relay that offers good connection, I see no reason to use both contacts in parallel for the connection of signal. I suggest, in keeping with design practice common to physical antenna switches, why not use one contact for signal and the other to ground the unused antenna to provide some isolation. So, in a non-powered state, the first set of NC contacts connects signal to your default antenna while the second set of NC contacts connects the unused antenna to GND. When the relay is powered, the first set of NO contacts (now closed) connects the default antenna to GND and the second set of NO contacts connects the signal to your second antenna. 73

dude use a usb plug out ot the computer or any old smart phone brick.

Very interesting and creative. Nice demo and great idea about ground radials.

Do you happen to know the dimensions of the battery?the one I'm finding online with the same part number says it's 9inches long. Trying to figure out before I order, thank you