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@@kalani1987 oh bother! with valve body off did you change anything else for example the o ring? or just the wiring section?

@ESlashP well I was told I needed a new valve body altogether. I haven't done anything yet as I'm contemplating how to fix. I have to unplug the connector now and then to prevent it from soaking too much to prevent the car from starting

@@pauldyson5121 No problems. Its been 5000km/6months now since. I think they are great. They travel the 4 stock heights well and are thick. They do appear differently but feel great. Dunlops look to be fatter or *perhaps* can go more extreme over stock high mode (just a guess). I dont feel any difference over speed humps @ 60kph (😁) still straight over no slowdown and ride is like a pillow. Just a month ago I put new shocks from similar supplier ($250 set of 4) and these are fantastic too. mild off road steep grassy mid rocky hills. Getting thru no issues.

Personally i think it is worn plastic parts, since the electrical circuit is fine and the button works as it should and always has. This is a MECHANICAL ISSUE. Mechanical can be spring, sure, but I believe it is the plastic parts which have worn. I need a new lock mechanism. There is not enough time to sort out the actual problem, just get a new locking mechanism.

Thanks mate. Ill give it a go.

@@nigo225 Hi, Yes if you disconnect the top of dryer line, and pump air in through that line it will fill the tank. Using eas suite, I usually go to heights menu, then click 'up' about 30 times on that bag and quickly go to the air dryer line, pull the top install the air tool into the 8mm pipe and gun away. The bags fill up rather quickly this way. Every click of the mouse button on 'up' shoots air into the bags, so the more going in the higher it goes each click. The eas suite program has memory of every click. If you did both rears together click a number of times on each side then quickly add the air line and fire air into it. I use a filter to stop moisture coming from my compressor since you are bypassing the range rover dryer here... dont really want moisture getting into the tanks.

@@ESlashP Thank you so much for the incredibly clear explanation! Your instructions made it easy to visualize the process. The way you articulate everything is outstanding, and as others have mentioned, your videos on the P38 stand out as some of the clearest and most helpful guides available. I'm really looking forward to your future maintenance videos. Thank you again!

@@UwUthunder No machine. I used stock head gaskets. Not warped head. If had warped get machined. Need shop to machine warped head. I suspected it was not warped. Engine has almost factory psi in each cylinder after gasket change. All have increased. I recommend a shop machine head though, because they can check if you have cracks. It mine had cracks I wouldnt know until strting engine, without the tools to check for cracks. Its playing roulette to not have the heads machined and checked for cracks. However I did ok here with what I did.

Self Levelling suspension (SLS) Like mine here, does not have a soft or hard mode. It is accumulators. You can raise or lower the height from under the car at an adjustment valve in the centre area. If you want Soft or Hard adjustments, you need a E38 which has the 'S-EDC' BUTTON on dash. It is an electronic system that monitors all 4 dampers (shocks)thru several sensors around the car and will automatically adjust the damping characteristics of the shocks from soft/med/hard...it has nothing to do with raising/lowering the suspension. Cars with S-EDC I think are from 1999 onward, or only on 750il models. If you have S-EDC, it will have wires or cable going thru the top of the shock tower. Look for wires going into the shock tower/dampers from above. www.bimmerboard.com/forums/posts/760091

I did bleed the brake system afterward. Not sure If I explained that or not, but there is a good video on RUclips by 'Work on P38' guy. I followed his instruction.

@@حبيتكمنالقلب Its back on the road. Problem solved.

replace them just in case

Nissens 30230

@@PepperWagner Awesome, thanks!

Ive spent a lot of money and time on parts. Ive had mine for 13years. theres a lot or brittle plastics in my 99 hse. I think they are not built very well with the cosmetics. Its a strong chassis and goes anywhere but a lot can go wrong. Ive done new head gaskets, fuel pump, and the lower ball joints and all airbags. Also had to replace the expenaive sabco brake bulb and sort out the tc issues electrically by cleaning wvery connector in the wiring system as a lot of them corrode. But if you pull all electrics connectors and clean them, a lot of things start to work again. Most need a new fusebox too which are cheap enough. Mine is very reliable now. Ive done a lot to fix it though. My BMW from.same era is a much better built car ane more reliable, plastics have rubber in them and dont break so easily, and the motors are more advanced. The P38 though, is good on tyres and brakes, they last forever. If i had a choice i might lean toward an L322 Range rover with the 4.4 bmw engine because i know how good they are from my 740il and its seemingly built stronger than the P38 (L322).

Thankyou for kind words. I film most of the work I do, and I upload when I feel it could help others get the job done quicker.

Non vanos. Yes.

OEM transmission fluid for E38 code is ESSO LT71141 (BMW used ESSO). Any fluid with this code is the correct one, the color of the fluid can be different. If a particular manufacturer of an equivalent long drain LT71141 chooses yellow, red, brown, clear dye, then it is going to look like that. I personally used ESSO LT71141 in a grey packet with red sticker to replace this one. Its available online. It is one of the correct fluids to use. I believe I did that change 3 or 4 years ago but I don't remember exactly. All I know is it is smooth as silk now. I dont recall the color of dye used in the packs which I purchased, but companies do change the color randomly so no point thinking about it. There is a green sticker under the transmission as well as the information in the booklet for this transmission pertaining to exactly as I say, to be correct. The full service history of this particular vehicle did not mention a fluid change ever happening. Whatever the fluid looked like in this video is a document of what the fluid looked like as a result of being nearly 300,000k old.

Yes. It works well. Petrol dilutes the bad fluid and flushes it out. It then evaporates leaving no residue.

No theory. Just document of the job being done, and getting a used transmission installed.

I believe so. Pieces of wood.

I think its just water on a horse riding ring/menage. The red scoria picks up the loose oil if any does spill and i later scoop it into a wheelbarrow with salt in it then dispose of the oil in old oil containers after the salt has dried the oil into clumps.

what about it??? some things just need to get done.

@@averagejoebitcoin nice..

026053 Magna. also Acura. these 3 wire mirrors were fitted from 99 to 08 in both vehicles i believe. They fit the P38 range rover mount on the windscreen. They are the same chromatic system. Just cut the 3 wires off and solder to the connector from your broken donnelley mirror. Theyre usually around $70-80 US on ebay.

yes dvbt2. I think its from a 2008 X3.

Hello, how to remove TV protection? I can't watch it while I'm driving.

@@dongtaotruzen4660 set ignition to pos. II enter TV mode enter "settings" enter "contrast" when the green contrast bar is visible, push the knob and keep it pressed turn ignition off (keep button pressed!) wait 8-10 seconds (timing must be accurate!) release the knob turn on ignition again

watched it so much to prepare!

Dowell is 20mm. I think a 25mm will also fit inside bumpstop. The 20mm was cheap as I just used a broomstick handle! They seem to hold up ok and dont break.

Thankyou for comment, good read. Glad you fixed it and got lucky getting it going the 2nd time. Too right! converter heavy as hell! laying on back holding it dead centre and jostling about for that elusive click/thud into position. For P38 I recommend new trans filter/ full fluid flush get rid of the metalic bits from years of use clean up what you can in the pan make sure magnet is there as preventative maintenance. I also regreased all the uni joints with a K29 flexigun and did both diff oils at the same time as this box job.

Thanks. I guess I like to upload these videos to show you can get things done without the pro gear and space. It builds character that is for sure! The cold beer after a job like this hits that little bit better. Nothing better than pulling off a $5000 job for free.

Hello, Yes very good question. I used a 4hp24 which was exactly the same as mine, a 99+ model. I simply removed mine and plugged this one in with my old gearbox ecu. Im guessing it has simply picked up on whats going on immediately, and have not needed to reprogramme it. The box is definately going through all the gears. I thought i would have an issue there with possibility of it only using 3rd gear and in limp mode. But this did not happen. Simple plug and play.

Just slides down i believe.

Stc2784. Wabco. Cheapest I could find got from Allmakes4x4.

Ooh ok.thks for sharing

Thankyou. I like to document my fixings of auto problems and will upload ones that could help. I do plan on making another one on this subject, to best show resetting of heights using pre-cut metal tubes and placing them in the bumpstops, then dropping the air from the bags Using eassuite and recording those height values, in order to get the calibration settings perfect. And to show how swapping the sensors from one side to the other gives them a whole new life.