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@@123pwop Thanks! I’m a much better welder now than I was when I made this video, but we all gotta start somewhere.

@@waltershoults8803 It depends on the size of your motor. Trolling motors draw 20-50 amps (smallest to largest). At 20A full-throttle non-stop, you’d get 2.5hrs runtime. At 50A, you’ll get ~1hr. Give or take 10% for wind, current, etc. Also, draw goes up exponentially, so 1/2 throttle will give you 4x-ish runtime.

@ thank you for this information, greatly appreciated I’m just so ready to hit the water 🙏👍

@ oh! I’m subbed too , it’s your way you go about things that we follow you for, knowledge and the ability to impart with it and it’s REAL , lotsa RUclipsrs with channels but we come here . 🙏👍

@@stevewort Agreed. If it doesn’t deliver rated capacity, it’s false advertising. I don’t own either of these so I can’t verify personally, but in reviews I only found one 1-star review caused by capacity shortfall. Most of the bad reviews for the ecoworthy seem to be related to sudden failure, which suggests the internal wiring may not have the best quality control. That said, I’ve also seen people in forums complaining that they can’t get ahold of Dakota customer service either. In my experience, the cheap Amazon Lifepo4 packs have cells that are identical to the “premium” packs, and some budget packs have great assembly QC also, which means the 3-5X price gouge from the “premium” brands gets you nothing except better warranty, which is worth very little if they don’t honor it.

You can, but I don't recommend it. A 36AH lead acid battery has about 18 usable amp hours. According to Haswing, your motor has a 17A max draw at full throttle, so you'll have ~1hr of runtime. I can't find any car batteries that have 36AH online, but I see several AGM batteries that have 36AH. Those will give you ~22 usable amp hours, but they cost ~$100. If you hop on Amazon and search "12V 36AH LiFePO4" you'll see many options for the same price as the AGM. Some are cheaper than AGM, and LiFePO4 lets you use 100% of its rating, so if it says 36AH, then you can use all 36 of those amp hours, unlike lead acid or AGM. A 36AH LiFePO4 pack will give you ~2 hours of runtime.

Back when I made this video 1.5 years ago, LiFePO4 was more expensive than AGM and lead acid still. LiFePO4 prices have been steadily dropping ever since, so they're about the same price now, and they're just way better in every way.

@@jameslutton2647 Ratchet straps would probably work well. I’ve seen people use them to make barrel boats. I hadn’t considered bolts through the skuppers. That might work too if the washers are big enough. Great ideas!

@@arturofromtucson6262 great suggestion! I have a few power tool battery videos in the works, but I’ve been swamped with work so I haven’t been able to publish much in 2024. Hoping to have more time for it in 2025.

@@timralston6379 Great point! I’m no expert on hull design, but that sounds right to me, since the fastest kayaks I’ve seen on the market seem to be skinnier and longer.

I haven't, although they offered to send me one. I declined at the time bc I've been swamped with work. I really want to get back to making more videos for the channel, but until it's big enough to pay the bills, it'll be on the backburner.

@@eagleray1 I totally understand. It's really tough to be a content creator when you have a job too.

@@sam-y8t You could definitely run three Enduras at full throttle simultaneously. Four would work for a while, but might overheat the battery eventually.

Oh btw, I just subscibed and gave a like👍

Sure, I usually charge with benchtop power supplies, but I don't recommend that unless you like to tinker w/ electrical projects. If you want a plug-n-play charger for a single pack, the Noco Genius GENPRO10x1 is good. At 10 amps, it'll charge a 100AH pack from 0% to 100% in about 10 hours.

@@eagleray1 Thanky!

That’s correct. Those were the two 8ft lifetime hydros kayaks which are super cheap at tractor supply right now, under $200 each before shipping. However, with all the trouble I had with those during my five-video build that was supposed to be a one-video weekend build, I’d advise going a different route for DIY. If you want to build a deck boat from scratch, I’d try something other than kayaks. They were super hard to mount to, and a pain to register when if finally mostly waterproofed them. If I were to do that project again, I’d try to replace the kayaks with PVC or aluminum tube if you can weld. If you just want something quick w/ minimal diy, I’d suggest one of the pond prowler clones instead of a custom build. The pond prowlers are nice for the price IMO, and there are some amazing mod videos on them from other channels.

One other avenue that is less explored that might try in the future is a deck boat build using multiple snow sleds. I’ve got a Shappell Jet Sled here, and I think if I had three more under a sheet of plywood, it’d make a sweet quick deck boat for about as cheap as it’ll ever get.

@@eagleray1 you could look into a pontoon pedal boat, we see them often around here, id think it could be easily modified if required. Im good with my single sit on top kayak, i just caught a glimpse and wasnt sure what i was seeing

@@jaymcwethy9026 yeah, I like the idea of converting a peddleboat to electric one day. I’ve seen a few build in that direction and it sounds fun, but I’m on the same page as you right now. Most of my diy energy is going into a dual motor system for a single sit-on-top at the moment. I picked up a feelfree a few months back that will debut on the channel soon.

@@eagleray1 check out the pac motor for inspiration

I mentioned the cost decline curve of lithium batteries in the first two minutes. This video was made over a year ago, and I bought the batteries a year before that. In two years, it is common for price to cut in half. That’s why I mentioned the curve. $400 was near the cheapest price you could find for a 100ah pack confirmed to be quality by teardown videos on RUclips at the time. As of today, all the batteries that meet those criteria are in the $250-$300 range. This Chins is $250 right now and will probably be $175 by Christmas next year. You are mistaken about the $100-200 range. That is a trick used by shady marketers on Amazon. They price the pack super low knowing most ppl assume the shipping is free, but for the shady packs, shipping is often $40-70 extra. So I do encourage you to find the cheapest RELIABLE pack on Amazon, because I am a cheapskate at heart, but be careful with the ones priced below $200. They are often refurb. Shady middlemen buy used cells, put them in a new case, and hock them as new. If you look at the one-star reviews, you’ll sometimes be able to see how ppl get screwed with packs that can’t perform to their own specs. Don’t trust the 5-star reviews. Those are often bot-generated these days. Sorry you didn’t find what you were looking for in this video, but I hope this info helps.

Also, $250 is very cheap compared to “premium” competitors. See the price of equivalent brands that charge 3-4x the price range of the budget packs, like Battleborn, Dakota, Amped, etc. Those are expensive. Chins is definitely in the low budget category in comparison.

I'll do a video on each when I have those on-hand. I believe there are 3 models of the Max: 40lb, 45lb, and 55lb. Best I can do is guesstimate before bench-testing, but we can get close with napkin math. The manual says 40lb and 45lb both max at 42 amps. The regular Endura typically full-throttles ~5amps below its listed max draw, so if we assume the 45lb Max does as well, then it should pull ~37A at full throttle * 12.8V = 474 watts. The Chins 100AH has 1280WH, so 1280WH/474W = 2.7H = 2hrs. 42mins. runtime for the 45lb. version. The 40lb version is 89% of the thrust of the 45lb, so it's fair to say it'll give 89-ish% of the runtime. 2.7H*0.89=2.4H = 2hrs. 24mins. for the 40lb version. And then the manual says the 55lb version has a max draw of 50A, so assume it full-throttles at 45A. 45A x 12.8V = 576W. 1280WH/576W = 2.22H = 2hrs. 13mins. for the 55lb version. This of course will all vary by ~10% based on hull shape, weight on-board, wind, and current conditions. Hope that helps!

Thanks for watching, John! Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks again...

Interesting idea. I’ve overvolted trolling motors before, but never an actuator motor. I imagine it’s similar… it can prob handle it but if the voltage goes beyond the service factor, it’ll overheat. No telling what the service factor is on these cheap actuator motors, but I don’t think it would last long above 1.5. So I might try running them at 24v just to see what happens under a heat gun, but I suspect it may damage them. If I can’t get up to 24v, I don’t think I’ll want to bother with a boost converter to hit somewhere in between.

Yup, lead acid hits 14.8v at max charge but quickly falls back to rest at 12.8V. Lifepo4 hits max at around 14.4V but quickly comes to rest at around 13.5V. All are fine for trolling motors.

I guess that depends on your definition of "waste cells." I think you're saying that they're B grade? They are certainly not A-grade. They would not be this cheap if they were A-grade. But I wouldn't call them "waste cells" if they're confirmed to give the max capacity I'll ever need from them. A-grade requires extensive multi-100A tests, but the largest trolling motors have breakers at 60A. We don't need A-grade for trolling. These work great. I've had them over two years so far. No complaints here. Also, I've seen several videos where youtubers test A-grade and B-grade head to head, proving that most of the time the QC stickers are phony. So unless people have a direct relationship with the OEM and are willing to pay A-grade prices in massive bulk, it's moot. No need for that in the marine industry.

@@eagleray1 First i think the market not consent 2 products with one cost 25% than other and is comparable. Second, I think test capacity is the last thing to see. Battery test need years. Before that, judge is pure speculation. The real vital thing to combine cells is IR. in lead acid is less important because they are continuously overcharged. Hour of absorption and never ending float. The worst cell ever reach 100%. On lithium is crucial to stop immediately the charging when one cell reach 3.65v. is critical stop discharging before that one cell can reach 0%. These would means sudden death of cell. Not in lead acid. For this reason, different IR make a poor battery even if all cells have 150% of nominal capacity. One day test means nothing. Is like test a car that start and move and say" this car move on, is good, i recomand this car" A battery with nominal capacity is the minimum of the minimum. Any battery of the world that is no scam, cheap or not, bad or not, have capacity new. My cheap AGM has all capacity when new. And after 900 light cycles remains 50% and I trash. Now good quality AGM have 1000 cycles, most at 20% did, but a good number of 50% and some of 70% ad few 100% for test. Today have 94% of original capacity c20. If I tested the old on RUclips like today make people for lithium, the battery have no difference with the good one. Predict battery aging is one of the most mysterious things for scientists. They test for year before have a approximately idea. In you tube one day and we can say if battery is good. No sense

@@eagleray1 a rolls lead acid tubular plate traction flooded is much more reliable than cheap lithium. Has be prove to many years that make over 2000 100%DOD cycles. 4000 50%. 6000 30%. Never a 240 Euro 100ah lithium last the same..I promise

@@fc436 LiFePO4 OEMs have been selling stock into the EV industry for over a decade. Millions of units have proven to increase in cycle life, now producing >4000 cycles at 100% DOD. If you care about cycle life, how is a lead acid battery more reliable when it won't last 500 cycles?

@@fc436 I agree capacity is not the only thing you can use to measure value, but you seem to think it's trivial, when it's obviously the most important part. In your car example, if it drives... that's the most important part. Of course it's harder to tell if it will last 6 months or 10 years. As you said, we can't test that without owning the product and using it for 10 years. I'm not going to wait around 10 years before making a video about these batteries when there's plenty of good info to share about them in the first year. I'll give and update in eight years, and we'll see if they're still running well. RE: cycle testing, no one except OEMs have the bandwidth to do that, but if you're going to claim the OEM numbers are not fake/unreliable, it behooves you to put your money where your mouth is and independently cycle dozens or hundreds of LiFePO4 cells until they fail. I personally don't have the resources to do that, and I get the impression you'd like me to stop making videos until I do. I'm not going to do that.

I see occasional concerns about this. The idea that 'higher price definitely = higher quality' is reliable in some markets, but unfortunately not in lithium batteries, IMO. All of these LiFePO4 cells are imported from a small handful of Chinese suppliers (EVE, BYD, CATL, LISHEN, etc.). None are manufactured in the US. That means the budget brands and the "premium brands" are actually all manufactured in the same place. They're all running the same cells. The brands we buy for marine LiFePO4 are simply names printed on a plastic case. They do very little work to assemble these battery packs. They don't even make their own BMS in most cases. It's true that a shoddily constructed battery can have dangerous internals, but that's an easy box to check, even for the cheap brands. That's why it's good to watch any of the dozens of battery teardown channels on RUclips if you're concerned about a particular brand. You'll be able to find a dozen budget brands that have great internals, including Chins. As long as there are no giant red flags in their assembly process, the cheap budget brands have shown themselves to be exactly as reliable as premijm brands. Cheap brands like Chins and LiTime show no identifiable quality difference from extremely pricey brands like Dakota and Amped. I trust Chins exactly as much as anyone should trust Dakota. The two are equally likely to fail, and equally likely to possibly last over a decade. The only difference is... I don't want to pay 4X for Dakota when the only added benefit is an 8-year warranty. It's quite a roll of the dice. In buying Dakota instead of Chins, I'd be betting that the Dakota will fail 3 times in 8 years, and Dakota would promptly mail a replacement each time. If that didn't happen, then I'd have wasted my money by not buying the Chins. To each their own. For me, it is about being cheap. I don't like paying 4X and getting nothing extra.

@@eagleray1 I find it crazy that people don’t understand that there is only a handful of battery manufacturers in the world.

Thanks! Glad you found it helpful.

Thanks Steve! Glad you're enjoying it. More videos coming soon!

Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it!

Good to know. That makes sense. Do you know of a datasheet in the wild that reveals those details? I couldn't find that much info for any of these four.

@@eagleray1 The literature on these Chinese BMS' is not the best but this video demonstrates the working principal ruclips.net/video/MzGN9d0Sb9E/видео.htmlsi=UxxzteCg7BuaP1Pv&t=468

Do you ever put a heater a fishouse? I never thought about it before, but I suppose it would enable you to be out longer. Then again, I don't know if it would be dangerous, since it might warm the ice enough to crack it.

@@eagleray1 you wouldn't believe what they put in fishouses. And yes, even the most basic generally have a heater of some sort. At 25 below zero, mere shelter is not enough, you'ld still freeze to death. For background Google mille lacs fishouses. It's a big thing here.

Hey Claude! Thanks for the feedback! I have some plans to do some solo camping videos on the pontoon boat in the future. Some of those will definitely include solar setups. I've seen lots of camping videos about AC, but usually they're about testing how long an expensive solar generator will last. I love the idea of a video that identifies the bare minimum DIY solar setup that can run an AC unit 24/7. I'd like to do two versions of that, one that runs DC straight off the batteries, and another that runs AC off an inverter, so we can compare costs.

Thanks for watching! I recommend the Noco Genius 10-amp (amzn.to/4a6rzQx). It would charge a 20AH AGM pack like the UPLUS in this video in about 1hr, and it would charge a LiFePO4 pack like the Lachy in this video in about 2 hours. You can pay less if you get the 5A version, but it'll take 2X as long to charge.

Thanks for watching! You got it. You’d think, based on napkin math, that 24 amps would give you right around 4 hours from a 100AH battery, but a bunch of factors make it is slightly higher. The battery tests slightly above 100AH, the amps and volt both drop a bit toward the end of the discharge curve, and wind/current/weight/hull type can make around a 10% difference in range/runtime. With all of that together, my boat on my lake end up closer to 5 hours, but results may vary elsewhere on other boats.