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Thanks for the overview, would you suggest any grease or similar when pressing the bearings in ? And what are your thoughts on the lower end ceramic enduro bearings(~$50) ?

You are REALLY living dangerously with that garmin mounted like that!!!

There isn't any movement once set. It's not a point that pivots during out on the trail. Funny how folks believe they can feel a difference in something that hasn't changed 😂

I have a 2000 Specialized Allez Pro made of M4 alloy. For those who don't know, this bike predates the Tarmac and was one step down from the Allez S-Works. It has 2x9 Ultegra 6500/01, rim brakes, and Dura-Ace 16-spoke alloy wheels. Fast, stiff, twitchy, and really fun to ride. I bought it new for $2700 (wheels were extra) and have ridden it thousands of miles. I have newer bikes, but no better bikes.

Great video.. keep em coming.

Some people would actually clean the derailleur off a bit before installing the new stuff ;)

Haha you found me and some other guys trick! When I made a video on this, I was the second video to do this and people were amazed by this upgrade, it's such a good one for anyone looking to get a little more performance out of there GX. Something I wanted to point out is if you want it to feel like X01, you will need an X01 shifter. The rest of what you are not feeling is in the shifter is what I heard. I have not tried it but that is what I heard from others. Good video man 🤙

Not cleaning and not greasing the bushing is a no go. 🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮🤮

Thanks a lot. Is the Powermeter compatible with Sram Red D1 AXS crank 2x12 48/35? I am a bit concerned because I found different information on sram homepage. Thank you!

Great video. However, my crankset is stuck even after removing the nut. I feel like I almost need a separate crank removal tool.

Being a guy that has serviced and bend a lot of SX, NX, GX, X01, & XX1. Sure, a stabler B-pivot mount may make a bit of difference. BUT, the biggest difference, by far, between them is the overall strength and stiffness of the derailleurs regardless of the bit of difference that B-pivot bolt may make. And the difference in retail price between NX and GX is barely $20! AND, SX sucks in general, not worth investing $30 more into an already crappy derailleur that should probably be replaced in its entirety.

So, how is Abbey going to keep out giant neighbor to the far east from copying this awesome tool and selling it for $9.00?

How do you plug the bars when your running them at 750mm??? Those threads are thick?? Can't run revgrips into those threads.

@7:29 the drive side crank arm pops right off. This does not happen on my bike. Any suggestions on how to separate the drive side crank arm?

You, my friend are an absolute legend! Nailed it!

400 miles 😂 it’s one week of riding

Purchased the same Essential Kit. However, for the life of me, I can not get one of the handles to thread on all the way. Did you have a similar experience? Suggestions? Thanks!

I just drill a 2-3mm hole in the bloody cup and hammer 🔨 it out with a nail or a thin short rod. Then I glue the hole with a glue gun or silicone.

Thank you thank you. I had just about given up before seeing your video. Fortunately I had exactly the right stool and found a bar to go on the end of my socket wrench, to add leverage. My only issue was that as I'm light it was awkward to stop the bike from lifting as I applied force, but still managed after a couple of attempts.

I've bought ones from aliexpress and they claimed it is original. It is a bit different revision of centerlines, older one, with other markings, with scratched date of production (they say it is because of copyright reasons) and it is for centerlock. I doubt sram ever did this rotors for centerlock except for centerline x. Anyways, they look okay and the edges have nice finish, like original ones. And they work okay. So even if it is fake it was worth the money I paid for it (it was cheaper than confirmed original)

My Mavic Askium is screeching when im coasting at speed - same fix?

Poor design by Mavic

🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉

I have this exact bike I love it.

Thanks for all your efforts and explanations for these tests. Keeping things in perspective. It's a bicycle so how accurate does it have to be? It's been a practiced method to do incremental torquing of a fastener before proceeding to the required setting. Carbon fiber changed things, and you don't want to hear a crunching sound while tightening fasteners. Before carbon no one needed a torque wrench to work on the bike. I bought a Park beam style torque wrench, it was cost effective and performs well and adjustments are unnecessary.

Not sure why RUclips suggested this. I get my tools from Snap-on lol

Nice overview. Let us know if it’s stiff or has damping properties like OneUp. Dangerholm may have used Darimo on his builds. I’ve seen him use Schmolke.

Great video, really appreciate your thorough analysis.

Best review I’ve seen, particularly as I’m oscillating between the Park Tool and the Feedback. It really bugs me that, for the high price, the Park Tool doesn’t come with any bits and it has a monster head. I will go for Feedback, also looks cool, and let’s face it, we’re cyclist - that matters! 😂

Dr. Tire Popper

You’re torquing fasteners with this tool completely wrong. None of your hand gripping the tool should ever be closer to the tool head than is recommended by the manufacturer because doing that will result in you torquing the fastener at a different torque than the setting you set for it to click at. This is true for all click style torque wrenches. In the case of this wrench that allowable grip area ends where the knurling pattern on the device ends, yet you were gripping the tool well past that knurled area towards the head of the device as you torqued the fastener. Also, you never do multiple clicks with a click style torque wrench on any fastener because that will guarantee you over torqued the fastener. Eeeesh

The way you applied the torque with the Feedback Spirts wrench in the test completely goes against how even they say you are to use that wrench to apply accurate torque. According to them you are not to grip any of the handle past the handle end area that has the knurled part on it, the roughly one centimeter of handle area where you spin the handle to adjust torque settings. When you were applying torque you literally had your entire hand at least halfway up the length of the tool body towards the head of the tool. That in itself would completely result in torque amounts being applied by the tool that do not align with the torque setting the wrench was set to click at. Just saying.

Tried a friend’s Feedback Sports torque wrench recently and loved everything about it except for how you actually apply the torque when you are getting near the click setting (the single most important aspect of the tool itself!). Having to hold the wrench by approximately only 1 centimeter of handle end while torquing down a bolt makes absolutely no ergonomic sense at all and pretty much makes it a nonstarter tool for me. I could not even get my full index finger tip on the tool without going past that knurled area where you are allowed to grip the tool without messing up the torque being applied. Who the heck designs a torque wrench that gives you only about 1 centimeter or barely more of handle end to hold the tool by when you are torquing down a fastener? Who would actually think that is a solid or intelligent ergonomic design? As a comparison, compare the use of that FBS torque wrench versus the Effetto Mariposa 1-8 nm non-ratcheting torque wrench. The Effetto wrench is only slightly bigger than the Feedback Sports wrench, yet the allowable grip area on the Effetto handle is 5+ times wider than the FBS wrench and that permits you to easily get a solid grip on the tool with multiple fingers on it plus your thumb to tighten down bolts until you hear the click.

Is X01 kit the same?

Loctite the crank 2 bolt

Rim for road disk for dirt IYKYK.

1000 lumen on the helmet and 2200 lumen on the bar is both often overkill and often it will give the impression you are riding into your own shadow,.. Eyes adapt to the amount of light available, a bit like the auto exposure from a camera, just not as fast, certainly to nightvision. If you are rding alone or with people with about the same amount of light 3000 lumen is plenty except for enduro or downhill. If the people around you use much stronger lights your eyes adapt to the brightest spots and you hardly see where you are riding,.. I don't think everybody needs the magicshine 12000 lumens but i had to upgrade from a 3000 lumen bar and 1500 lumen helmet to 8000 lumen bar and 4000 lumen helmet because a was riding in my own shadow again,... i can ride with people with 10000- 15000 lumens without riding in my own shadow, i can shred and without increasing the difficulty to much but i can also dim the light on easy roads or with people with less powerful lights,.. Plenty of A brands have combo's in the same pricerange with more or much more output,..

Turn some lights on please

Why you do not recommend to get a new front chainring on your old crankset to fit 12 speed? Also I would use SRAM NX cassette over Sunrace any day on a Deore system. I did the change to full X01 on my Scale but used the old X0 crankset with a Absolute Black chainring and change the ratchet on my 240s rear hub to fit the X01 cassette.

I have a mini ratchet it solves tight spaces from prestacycle

Nice review, but the background noise (music?) was not only unnecessary, but annoying. Lose it! The downside of this excellent tool is that most modern bike work requires torque wrenches. You're out of luck if the tool you have can't do that.

9:30 bro you should put that puller from inside to the outside , just simple thing. No need of hammering

A little bit ooc, but is there an adapter on how to mount the axs pod rocker paddle (EC-AXS-PODR-C1) to the xtr lever? Appreciate your help!

What a great review, thank you.

*tip of the hat* Thank you kindly, sir. Worked a treat!

Hi there, rhe Truvativ Stylo were aluminum? Have those with an XX1 oval chainring and I'm looking to get a PM. Rotor Kapic carbons are on my mind but I think weight wise it'll remain the same...

Great work! The knuckle saving advice in this video is priceless.

Fc-8100 cranks have only 11mm of spline. Fc-m8000 and older. Hollowtech II have 16mm. Engineering error, not operator.

I believe I have the exact same model, but never serviced before. It's got like 5-6000km only yet, but it makes a very annoying clicking sound each time I shift loads from left-to-right or vice-versa. Any ideas? Or is it normal for Fox? I have a 2003 SID Race with over 30000km, that has never ever made a single glitch. I'll try to service this 32 SC, but if clicking stays, I will sell it for a RS SID instead...

It may be worth mentioning that the "wide" 43/30 2x Force crankset cannot use this power meter (but the Force crankarm power meter will work). I just ordered mine and nearly made this mistake.