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@spoonspoon7427 thanks for the advice. I was thinking about doing that, I'll keep that in mind if it leaks.

@joeyboscarino Hello, thanks for commenting. If you are talking about all the way open position the hinge kit comes with a cable that hooks on to the clam and then attaches it to one of the structural points of the car. So when it is all the way open, it is pulled tight. With the strut installed it does try to force it open. So at the mid point there is a point where it will try to balance itself. I tried to show this in the video. If there are any more questions please let me know!

Hi there, some trimming may be needed on that foam piece but i feel like there would always be a little catch right there. I actually made another video with the 2 struts and brackets that really did help me (if you search the internet for "Rear clam hinge lift struts" you will find the details of what i copied. I just finished the video and need to do some editing. But i am glad you got everything installed and to that point already. So much of the maintenance work is a lot better with the clam kit!

@@nedsgarage Thank you for the reply I almost feel like my hinges even before installed really don't have that much force. Perhaps I need to grease them. I will check out your upgrades! Thanks!

Hello, thanks for watching and commenting. yes that is coming up shortly, give me a couple weeks.

@@justaddafan thanks for sharing. I'm going to pay extra attention to this when I do my first lift.

on the oil pan. it is a 2ZZ with the 1ZZ style oil baffle made by monkey wrench racing, it does not have the flaps like the BOE, Mororso or Inokinetic ones but at 90 dollars and at that time i warped the old one removing it so i thought it was a cheap replacement/upgrade. www.monkeywrenchracing.com/product/qrp-oil-pan-2zz-ge-direct-replacement-with-baffle/

Hello, i trust that you are on lotustalk forum board? I don't know much around the Chicago area unfortunately. The boe kits look great and would be what i do if I was NA i understand the new S/C kits are a lot more efficient and make more power than the old MP62 base. This car has a Katana 1 S/C kit that is running well so it's have not been doing much to mess with that. I am very curious on the LSD and what clutch you are going with. Good luck!

Hey thanks for watching and commenting. Do you remember how you offset the pucks when you installed it? I read that the offset should have larger portion of the puck towards the inside/center of the car?

@@nedsgarage I was with the mecanic who fitted them, but i don't know exactly anymore. I believe the pucks are with the big part to the sill, maybe to the middle is better for not damaging the sill when you lift the car. But i also put something between the jack and the jack point. Aslong the puck is straight under the crossbeam and you jack up the car carefully it will be ok.

@eugenes3837 hey thanks for watching and commenting. I found this on ebay but they also have a website. Shiftsolutionsco. This specific listing was "SSCO TR-K KNURLED 500 GRAMS ILLUSION ORANGE 5 6 SPEED SHIFT KNOB WEIGHTED".

@@nedsgarage Did the reverse collar slide up into the recess perfectly? Did you have to modify anything to make it fit?

@@eugenes3837 it has the cut out for the reverse collar and a generous thread. I had to install a M12X1.5 socket pipe plug as a spacer as the threading was too deep and would engage the lift collar when the shift knob was in there all the way. "uxcell Carbon Steel Internal Hex Thread Socket Pipe Plug, M12x1.5 Male Thread Black Pipe Cap, for Garden Pipe Pneumatic Solenoid Valve, 5Pcs" is what i used to make sure the lift collar had enough room to operate. please note im M12 due to aftermarket shifter, i think factory is M10.

@@nedsgarage Thanks for the detailed instructions. ill give it a try myself

@bemaco1 Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. I had an issue with my factory lock and it would not open. I had to force it open and the latch mechanism unglued itself from the fiberglass hatch. What I did was elongate the key hole and installed a quick-latch, I got the keyed version that I can lock if needed. q-latch.com/page14.html.

@@nedsgarage thanks!! Looking forward to see what else you do! (May I suggest a supercharger - really gives these things what they needed from the factory to be even more amazing)

@bemaco1 i already got a couple of things planned for this winter? Be sure to check back in. This car is already supercharged from the previous owner (Katana 1 S/C). I have driven a factory power elise and agree the mid range is welcoming.

@@nedsgarage That's why i couldn't spot it ;-) The company is horrible to deal with but BOE REV300/400 will give you a lot more kick in the pants

@bemaco1 BOE is actually local to me and would have been the obvious choice. I know that TVS is more efficient with more power and lower intake temps than the mp62. My kit is running well so it's a little hard to justify removing it for another kit. I do plan to get it dyno'd at BOE one of these days to see what it would make (Katana 1 with CharlieX tunes) I would be happy with 200 whp and it does drive like it has at least that.

Hi there, the later model Elises have a different headlight design which allow other ways to get more output. inokinetic sells "LEDBULBS" which should increase your headlight output for a much lower cost.

@@THEGABNER I'm not aware of any other kits for 05-06 yet.

@@THEGABNER here you go! www.onrailsengineering.com/lotus/2005-06-led-headlight-upgrade

Yes, lotus talk had so much information and even before i bought it i went on looking to read up on all the threads on there. For example; adding the strut to help with opening and closing was a set of instructions on a thread that someone made on there. Although i didn't copy their design i adapted mine pretty close. I will say i would like to add another strut on the other side as you can see from the video that having it on one side tends to push up on the right side and i kind of have to wiggle it to balance that. I wish you the best of luck in installing the clam kit and glad this series of video help you a little.

@@nedsgarage I got the clam off :)

@DAaaMan64 how's the progress going?

@@nedsgarage I think my last comment was sent to you for review. So if this comment makes no sense, lmk. Lol Also thanks for the help so far! I'm review your videos over and over lol I'm thinking one side is just a bit higher than the other and I need to keep looking for cables or something to clear out of the way.

@DAaaMan64 is it hight towards the back or the front of the clam? We're you able to get your metal shims all sorted out? I had 1 shims that stuck on to the clam underside when I removed it.

@madarauchiha1218 Hi thanks for watching and commenting. When I was installing it, the trunk lid toward the back was was rubbing and I had to back off the bolts and shove it forwards and tighten them down to get more clearance. However, after that I don't have any other rubbing issue. Although the gap may not be perfect around the engine lid (i don't think it was perfect to begin with before).

@@nedsgarage I had the biggest pain in the butt trying to re-install it with the clam up like they stated. I might loosen it with it down and try yanking on it a bit.

@@madarauchiha1218 i think i had the clam back down and pushed it towards the fire wall and sneaked a ratcheting wrench in there to tighten it, that's how i put some pressure forward.

@jackandroid1006 thanks for watching and commenting. Did you have much trouble adjusting the beam after install? I really had a hard time and the end result was okay (lower than I want but acceptable). I also remember putting in the new flasher relay for led twilight and man that was a tough squeeze!

I had no problems adjusting the headlight beam back to approximately the same position as the original lights…then I tried to put the headlight cover back on! I had to fine tune the projector position by adjusting both upper and lower direction screws to try to make the upper rim of the projector protrude less (at first, I adjusted just the new direction screw, since the other screw hadn’t moved). So far, I’ve adjusted it only in my garage and I’ve not tested the results on the road, but I suspect mine is also a little low. Interestingly, the problem was only on the passenger side. I suspect it’s a result of the inboard side of the projector protruding further forwards to direct the light towards the kerb. There must be more tolerance on the outboard side of the headlight cover, hence the driver’s side fitting ok. Or it’s simply a function of the car being made by Norfolk turnip farmers😁 As for the relay, my neck hasn’t recovered yet! I ended up using my phone selfie camera as a mirror and kneeling outside the car. In my car, the positions of the flasher relay and its neighbour were transposed, so I had extra fiddling and two relays to put back in place. As I said, “handmade”😁

@DAaaMan64 thanks for watching and I'm glad it was helpful. If I had to sit take a day off and just get through this all in one go i bet I can do it in 8 hours (with help removing clam on and off). Maybe take an hour off for removing the clam. I ended up taking a couple weeks doing an hour or 2 a night and waiting on parts and taking my time. Good luck on your install!

@@nedsgarage thank you so much. The parts have been on my shelf for like 2 years now haha. I think this winter is the one!

@DAaaMan64 i have taken some footage but didn't like how it turned out so been delaying. Thanks for watching and commenting. I will put a priority to making that video. Give me a couple days.

@@nedsgarage no worries man. Thanks a lot I would enjoy it

@Dethred1 thanks for commenting. I'm glad I'm not the only one who ran into this issue. I was getting pretty frustrated doing all the measurements and then just throwing it all away as I bolt the cover on. I hope you like your led it it has been great for me

@@nedsgarage Same for me, although I was hoping I was somehow the only one. I have a custom carbon clam so the headlight covers fit even less, but after about 5 hours of trying I was able to get everything to align and bolt in properly. I couldn't even drive with the stock lights, your video convinced me to buy the ORE ones and wow it's like a modern car now. Stock are so dangerous, it's like they were designed as a last resort if you were caught having to drive the car at night for some strange reason.

Hey. Thank you for watching and commenting!

Hi there, thank you for the kind word and thanks for watching!

Thanks for commenting. I did see a number written with a wax pen on them shims. I kept them all together. I ended up taking thickness measurements and had made some to replace them!

The hose in the installation kit is to connect the pump to the cars tubing side. This was not needed on my car as you can see here there was no tubing connection between the pump and fuel pump assembly. There were a couple hoses on the return side I could have replaced but I did not. Thanks for watching and commenting!

Hi. Thanks for watching and commenting. I did a lot of measurements and the bridge jack they sell seems a bit too tall for my application. I end up running low profile aluminum floor jacks made by California car cover on the include jack tray with various pieces of wood and pucks and that has been working great.

I don't lift it all the way up and it takes less than 30 seconds

Hey, thanks for comments and sorry i didn't get this notification and reply sooner. The height from floor to bottom of platform is 60" above the floor.My Lancer is lowered and generally the roof line is around 56" above the floor. However, the highest point on that car is the roof antenna and although i have a shorty roof antenna it would not fit with the 1 rung lower on the lift. The platform is 4" thick so the lotus Elise bottom of tire to floor is 64". The lotus Elise is a pretty short car (~42"-44"). With this lift i have 2 more locks to go up, but i am unable to go up higher than this as i will hit the ceiling (you need some room to get OFF the locks so i dare not push it higher). i have not tried to park the lancer up top and lotus below it but i hope of on the lower rungs will make it all work for that set up.

hello, thank you for watching. the gauge i have in there is a dual function oil pressure and oil temperature gauge. to wire them fed the signal lines up through the transmission/shifter tunnel and up to the front, i powered it by tapping into a key-on power source under the passanger side dash fuse panel. i also have a voltage meter/usb power source under it and a 12V cigarette lighter port under it as well!

​@@nedsgarage I did the same installation for the the signal lines. Indeed, I can tap the battery + from the fuse on the passenger side but I can't understand where you took the ground and ignition switch +12v 🤔 Thanks !

Because the hydraulic cylinder is mounted on one side of the rails, one of the upright is specific to the motor/hydraulic mechanism. You have to either mount it where i have (far left) or flip the whole thing (right side up front near my lotus banner). I didn't have any outlets over there and i needed space to walk through so i chose the far left side. my choice would have been front left side if i had my pick. thank you for watching!

about 9'-5" where it matters - my garage slopes a little towards the door. so i have a little less inside and a little more outside towards the door. The 9'-5" would be where the roof of the car would be. please let me know if you have any other questions!

Should be a H7. I replaced mine with one off of Amazon to get the white light to match

@@nedsgarage do you know which one you bought?

This is the description from amazon the one i bought "AILEO H7 LED Headlight Bulb, 6pcs Upgraded Large CSP Chips, 350% Brightness 40W 8000LM Super Bright 6500K Cool White, 1:1 Mini Size Fanless Easy to Install H7 LED Bulb Replacement Kit, 2 Pack"

@@nedsgarage I bought those bulbs but it's still the ugly yellow color did not match the hid color

@wall1 Hi, did you get 6500K color? I have another video that showed mine matching pretty good.

Thank you for watching and commenting. I do have an attic area and will be looking into that.

i just took a piece of steel bar and drilled some holes and then bend them into a J shape. then screwed it to the stud at the correct height to mount it on the wall. there is no load hanging off of it its sitting on the ground and the bracket just keeps it from tipping out.

Would you be able to do suspension work or transmission work with this lift? Bridge jack or whatever it's called?

@@AarenPho thank you for commenting. there are a couple ways to lift the car up on and take the wheel off. 1 - is use the included sliding jack platform and a bottle jack/scissor jack/jack stand combo. 2 - a bridge jack 3 - a quick jack on the 4 post lift rails, a quick jack doesn't work on the orange car due to the lifting points not being in line/parallel with each other. i don't have a bridge jack yet and get by using the sliding jack platform at the moment.