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Photo flo is used in darkroom photography- it breaks the surface tension of the water. Use a drop or two of dish soap instead. Makes it a day or two before using and then gently stir to remix

If you are referring to the fountain solution (sponging water) used to dampen the plate, its helpful to keep it between 4.0-5.0 ph. The easiest way to determine this is to buy some ph test strips. They are cheap and easy to use. You can buy them on amazon. To lower the ph, add about an ounce of Gum Arabic to a quart or so of water and test it. If the ph is still too high, add a few drops of nitric acid if you have it, or citric acid - both will lower the ph. If its too high, add water. This will help reduce scumming and unwanted plate marks. If you meant something else let me know.

@@adelehenderson6858 Hello Adele! Thank you so much for your detailed answers! I'm up in British Columbia, Canada and trying to source fountain solution. Is fountain solution a must, or can I just get away with adding gum arabic to the water? Is there another solution I could use if fountain solution isn't an option for me?

Thanks for the feedback. Pronto plates is a brand of polyester plate. Polyester plates are manufactured by numerous companies, some work better than others, or at least a little differently. To be safe you might want to purchase from a supplier of printmaking materials.

I would just try whatever you have on hand and see if it works. You will know if it works because it will fuse the toner to the plate. So when you touch it it shouldn’t move. It should be stable. The toner is actually plastic, and the solvent is melting the plastic in the toner, which attaches it to the plate You can also use heat if you have a hot plate make a little shelter for it to keep the heat down and turn it on real low until the toner is fused. The trick is not to warp the plate

Hi, I missed your question but just answered it - see above.

Hello Michel - I don't understand your question. Could you rephase?

Adele thank you for getting back to me. I plan on using pronto plates to do a couple of small editions. I understand that using a lithograph press would make the inking process easier and better. My question is are there other reasons why I should try to find time on a Litho press? It would seem to me that I should be able to set up my etching press pressure wise the same as a litho, I am I missing something. And while I have your attention can or do you have tutorials on preparing pronto plates from drawings or youtubes addresses that cover this. Thank you

@@emilemichelaparicio1798 I've used an etching press for small plates by mounting them on vinyl with magnetic backing, which does 2 things - it raises the plate up to about the same level as a copper or zinc, and its easy to keep the margins clean. Ink it off of the press and then transfer to the press for printing. If the press bed is steel it will make registration easier. You can use spray mount or double-sided film like 3M. Probably don't want blankets, maybe a piece of thin lexan or something stiff like an offset blanket. If its a large plate the vinyl might stretch. Litho press is much easier but you can make an etching press work.

Thank you very much Adele your such a source of light in project of creating on pronto for Litho small editions. Adele I am 79 have arrived at the point in my mind where I know exactly what I want to leave behind. And being realistic with very little time so help and “how to”are of great value thank you so much. Kindest regards emile michel

Sorry for the delayed response. You can use an etching press but its not ideal. THe bed must be perfectly flat. TIghten the pressure as far as you can go. I only have had good results with pre-dampened paper.I use one blanket (pusher - tightly woven felt that doesn't stretch much). It helps to trap the paper under the press first, then lift and wrap it around the cylindar to hold the paper in place while you place your plate in position. When everything is lined up you can and run it through the press while holding the paper and blanket against the press cylinder as far as possible. If you print it like you would normally print an etching the paper will probably stretch and blur the ink.... HOpe this makes sense. sorry for the late reply

Nate! great to hear from you! I show your prints to students on a regular basis and they are always blown away. Miss you too. If you ever make it out this way... please stop by!

I don’t know what you mean by pencil crayons. drawing materials must be impermeable to water and bond into the plate. If it sits on top of the plate it’ll probably lift off when you go to ink it. But try it, who knows.

Pencil crayons as in coloured pencils. I ask because I think you mentioned wax crayons as a possible medium. I'll have to give it a try.

sorry it took me so long to reply. I don't know what you mean by pencil crayons. Can you be more specific? Keep in mind that whatever you draw with, it needs tor have a permanent bond with the plate, if not, it will lift off of the plate when you are printing. Try it and if it can be scrubbed off with water, it probably won't work. Does this make sense?

I think what she is using is called a rubbing crayon, made to produce soft tones in lithography.

use a laser copier or printer to make the image on regular paper, then place it face down on the plate and use a piece of adsorbent rag or cotton saturated with acetone and rub very hard. It requires some practice. If there is too much acetone the image will just bleed and not transfer. If you have access to a press you can saturate 3 sheets of newsprint with acetone, place it on top of the plate (or stone) and run it through the press with firm pressure. Add 5 or so sheets of newsprint on top to protect the tympan from the acetone.

This is basically the process I developed in 1990 and you can get the information from my two websites on the internet. Just put my name: Nik Semenoff into Google and there will more data that you will get using copier toner and common caulking silicone to make waterless lithographic plates. You should also find my safer method of etching aluminum, zinc and copper, starting with copper sulfate, salt and sodium bisulfate. You don't throw away the used mordant, just add a 12% solution of hydrogen peroxide to regenerate the mordant. Get in touch with me by e-mail if you want more information.

u of s represent

+María Constanza Briceño it is similar to paint thinner - in an art supply store it would be called mineral spirits. Lithotine or white gas (camp stove fuel) also work. Gamsol is the brand I use - it is safer to breath than most...

Thank you!...I ve achieved a few plates, and also realised that very greassy pastels tend to "dissapear", I should have heated a bit more, perhaps. I just got worryed and tried to avoid burning the plate with the gun.

Hello Maria Not sure what you mean by greasy pastels. Not everything is going to work well. Try using a material with a shellac base that will dry hard and not be disturbed - like a permanent marker or shellac based drawing ink. Those don't need to be fused. Also, if your images are lifting it could be the ink is too stiff and tacky - try adding a bit more varnish to the ink.