Видео

Glad the video helped

I ran the 3.5mm aux cable between the rear upper screen harness to the main command stereo harness. Both my harnesses came with AUX in/out options. Have you tried tuning MOST back on, did you take photo of your oem settings? theres no other settings needed to change for aux audio other than the settings I show in the video.

@@kevinkitho it was the MOST settings. I turned them ON but, the car didn't recognize it. So I saw a tutorial which showed that sometimes you have to change the settings and put the car to rest mode and wait 15 minutes. After the second attempt the MOST turned on, and finally it works now. Thank you very much Bud.

That’s a shame, glad it helped, majority of people the unit has no issues.. great upgrade too

Not too sure other than perhaps the unit or harness may not be 100% compatible.. have you tried adjusting any settings in engineering mode?

Sounds like this fix won’t work, needs the aux port

You can move the sliders to wherever you want, personally I also put them all into one layer to make it easier to toggle on/off..

Not too sure my friend, have you tried adjusting some the settings in engineering mode? Double check the harness/pin is fully seated and pressed in, some people forget. Also using a good quality aux ground loop adaptor works wonders, reducing the master volume 25-30% massively helped with my issue

Is yours the diesel model? I believe there was changes to the chambers between petrol and the later years

@@kevinkitho nah it’s the reg m276 engine.

Your welcome glad you found it useful!

Nvm bro just watched you other videos. Got all the answers i needed. By far the best sounding c350 I’ve come across

Sorry for the late response, glad you got it sorted, thanks man, as I said before don’t know why they didn’t come like this from factory!

I think you will need to adjust some settings under engineer mode…

Strange, i believe they all have engineer mode, your pretty limited without entering this. I got rid of the AMI cable,

Removed the stock resonators and replaced with straight pipe for each side… in my opinion less high pitched, deeper bark doing this over x pipe which I did previously on my c320…

Full video on my page?

Glad you sorted it!

You're welcome! Glad it helped

Great suggestion, for my work and any sea wave simulations I would be using Phoenix FD plugin, really easy and simple

Great tip!

Sorry not 100% sure, it should be simple case of plugging up back to oem harness, ensure all connections are seated and fully pushed in. Possibly incorrect harness depending on NTG version

Hrmm if you’ve got different NGT version double check you have the correct harness and wires going to correct pins… perhaps try another PIN to enter system menu that may enable some greyed out features…

Awesome glad the video helped! Such a relief once things are up and running 👏

Hi having the exact same problem will give that a try. Thanks for sharing.

Can’t say I’ve come across this, other than checking physical connections are 100% secure or any settings on the headunit that allow mono/Stereo or L/R speaker balance level whilst in android mode?..

I'm having the same issue as above. Did you find a fix?

Yes the cables was lose so check the cable jack or replace it

See part 2 of my video, this is a common problem, it is very tight but can be done!

Yes, You need to buy an aux noise cancelling ground loop adaptor as seen at 5m 09sec can be purchased off eBay or Amazon, your 3.5mm aux cable will plug into this before connecting to headunit,

@@kevinkitho thank you very much for the reply.

Settings as in the changes in engineering mode/menu? When you changed back did you ensure to reboot out of the system?

Your knob isn’t working?? Ensure all the clips connectors are seated correctly…

Haha patience….

Your welcome. Your animation must be looking really good by now

@@kevinkitho yes thanku for your help

Yes putty they don’t, fortunately a workaround they works for the majority of users. Glad it helped

Awesome, that’s good to know, seems there’s a variety of codes from manufactures, glad the video helped.

Yes secondary “cats” or also referred to as “NOX chambers” were replaced with smaller diameter pipe, some have an X pipe made up as an alternative, both rear mufflers opened up, all sound deadening material removed, perforated pipes within the channels covered with exhaust wrap, alternatively these could have also been modified and replaced with straight pipe then mufflers welded back up

​@@kevinkitho But in essence, deleting the secondary cats alone & replacing them with smaller diameter pipes make the car sounds deeper? I'm also trying to achieve that with my c350, I feel like a slightly deeper sound would add so much to the tonality of the v6 and I've truly been inspired by your video. However, I don't think I would go as far as putting an x-pipe as it then becomes too high pitched and tends to sound more like a civic than anything else imo. In the first stage of your build @ 0:15 all you did was secondary cats delete and leave everything else stock cause that's the sound I'm trying to achieve initially? Also, did you experience any issues/ noticeable side-effects along the way like check engine lights going on? Thanks again

I did my exhaust modifications in stages because of what you describe, for me I wanted to avoid the deep deafening(droning)note and instead wanted to retain some bark to it but deep enough to appreciate the v6 when my foot was planted. On my previous 2008 w204 v6 I did a complete straight pipe system from cat back (no mufflers, no resonators, no nothing) which was NICE but on a day to day basis was too deep/loud, cruising at 20mph or 70mph caught too much attention, the droning isn’t everyone’s cup of tea either and every man and his dog wanted to race me 😂. Had this for 4 years… I think in this order of loudness sound from quiet to loud - secondary cats delete, muffler sound deadening material removed, muffler inner pipes removed or modified with non perforated straight pipes, resonator pipes removed/x-pipe, primary main cats delete then finally if that wasn’t loud enough last resort would be to remove both mufflers with straight pipes! For me if first 2 stages weren’t loud enough then at a push would have resonators replaced with straight pipe or x-pipe… but I’ve been more than satisfied since. The only thing you may require to do depending on your ecu software version is when the secondary cats/nox chambers are removed.. although they have no sensors, they do feedback to primary cats with I believe air pressure/volume information and if this variable has changed slightly your ecu light will come on so had my local ECU tuning company (the company who removed the 2nd cats) reset this reading/bypass, been 💯 ever since. Hope this helps.

@@kevinkitho very insightful, i’ll go ahead and get my secondary cats deleted this week & leave everything else stock. I’ll start from there & if i feel like it needs more bark along the way, i’ll go ahead and do the muffler mod 👍

Sounds good, plenty options and don’t think you’ll be dissapointed

???

Could do yeah a bone rig with spline or link of chains?

@@kevinkitho yes like dynamic animations of hose with bones and crane lift that hose dynamic types

@@Team_rk288 Will look at doing something like this down the line however my favoured method in most cases is using something like splineIK solver rig as its usually a great solution 99% of the time in my world. Bones setup is a little more time consuming but not too dissimilar involving skinning IF you want to use dynamic/organic hose/cable/rope...

For all work enquiries I have a website Oceanworx.co.uk 😎

Most users are ok with this combo to enter engineering mode, but depends on what year and version NTG your car also came with. Instead replace the “hangup” button try the “dial” green call button instead so “dial#1” or “hangup#2” hope this helps

Thank you 😊 thanks for your support. Hope your animation is coming along nicely!

I had both rear exhaust boxes opened up, had all the steel sound dampening material removed then boxes were welded back up, along with this had the oem centre section/muffler or “nox chamber” sometimes referred to cut out and replaced with a smaller diameter pipe without any internal material. Note this piece sits further up from the catalyst converter and has no sensors attached so does not affect exhaust emissions in anyway, saying that I had my ECU nox sensor reading blanked/deleted. Quad exhaust tips were also added to finish off

@@kevinkithoi’m pretty sure there are two catalytic converters one near the headers with a sensor and one without. did you remove the secondary cat or the resonator?

You could create instances of the spline 36 times, THEN you will need to apply ikspline control modifier, create dummy’s individually to each of the 36. Max will not like it if you try to instance 36 splines inc modifier and dummy points these need to be applied after then each of these 36 parent dummies linked to a single master dumny for control. Depending on your scene, 36 spline IK with bones/skinned skinned may also work

Thank you for your support. Glad you found this useful 😎

Yes absolutely there are many ways to achieve this. Mass fx, IK solver+ bones+ skin, path deform or this spline IK control method above… OR a combination of both! Depends on your scene complexity/interaction and level of animation control required.

@@kevinkitho can you do this method of animation I want to know deep in 3dmax

🥰🥰🥰🥰

That's a great looking animation. Actually that video requires the use of a simple Spline IK rig to control and animate hoses, risers, power cables.... something I do quite regularly, watch out for my next video. Glad to have helped and thanks for your support!

@@kevinkitho I'm waiting then I will start my project

Could do, Tutorial ok the whole section?

@@kevinkitho Yes, please need that crane lifting cable connected need to know, please

@@Team_rk288 See what I can do, actually started creating a series of how to use 3ds max for the oil and gas engineering industry… maybe I’ll look at completing it and get this uploaded.

@@kevinkitho yes sure

See latest video, hope this helps. ruclips.net/video/uHK39WI2itc/видео.html

Yes unfortunately they all have factory set passwords. Password for my unit came provided within the package. Hope you get it sorted

Agreed the AMI port quality is sub par.... AUX method all the way. Glad you sorted it!

Arghhh I 100% understand but dont give up, I think it took me a good couple weeks before I braved it again but I assure you it DOES fit!

I think I have narrowed down the issue with my car. I think my amplifier has gone bad. I noticed the fan on it is not spinning. I assume it spins the whole time it is powered on. Out of frustration I removed the android system and replaced it with the factory screen and still no audio so I am almost certain it’s the amp.

@@mayhemcreative1661 do you already have fix it? I have the same problem

@@TheShark1313 so I did a reset on my radio and the audio came back on. I can remember the steps to reset it but I’ll see if I can find them and let you know.

It's an aftermarket chinese branded unit

👍

Noise loop worked perfectly for me along with adjusting the master volume level

You’re welcome, glad it helped

Honestly had no issues, used an aux ground loop adaptor