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Thanks, man!

Thanks! I hope all is well with you!

Thanks! I now understand why it's so hard to hang out with people over 35-ish years old.

Thanks, man. Everything is going well here. How have you been? I was wondering after seeing pictures of your hammer being made pop up.

The wool stays in the shape of the forge once you unroll it inside the forge. Then it stays put. The refractory is there to keep fibers from flying off the ceramic wool and going in your lungs.

@@drstrangefart my forge has a size of a big box so I need a way to glue ceramic wool to the sides somehow. it will not just stay in place by itself. also I need a way to glue it on the lid part of the forge. my forge is 100x50cm and 100cm tall. the iron I wanna work with will be on the bottom, but I made it taller so the top part doesn't get too hot. how should I position air intake - blower, when I wanna use coal as a fuel?

Try holding everything in place with wire and spraying a HEAVY coat of rigidizer on it. That in theory should get it stiffened up enough that you can apply refractory. Your only other option is to weld some small pins to the inside of the forge to hold it up.

The ceiling of the forge is gonna take a little doing, but you should be able to get it.

@@drstrangefart I will probably weld some nails from the inside and attach ceramic wool to them. how should I position air intake? should I make grate? I think the air flow will be the most important part to get high temperatures. I need around 1200 C to be able to work with iron.

It was rigidized befire it shipped to me. If you're starting with fresh kaowool, a spray-on rigidizer should take care of your prep before applying refractory.

Yeah, man. I sent him one of the first damascus kiridashis I ever made. I was hoping it would be used for carving, possibly getting into some small detail stuff. Love that guy's work.

@@drstrangefart same his contents is good so is yours

Thanks!

Thanks, man! I need to get back in the shop at some point and actually finish the tomahawk off. Things have been weird, especially with the addition of a pandemic.

@@drstrangefart Dude, I feel you 100%

You get a chance to mess with Beyond Light on Destiny 2 by any chance? Still hoping for a good Destiny weapon build from you at some point. Falling Guillotine might be the most obvious choice for you.

And with the hype for Hawkmoon coming back you might be able to pull some views making one of those.

Rigidizer only stiffens the sheet of kaowool a bit. It does NOTHING to stop the ceramic fibers from being blown out of the forge into the air. The refractory is there to keep those fibers from being blown out. You do NOT want to be breathing those fibers unless you're a huge fan of mesothelioma.

@@drstrangefart interesting. seems if it was sprayed at the ends as well as the middle, it would seal everything. like spray on super glue.

Nope. If refeactory wasn't absolutely necessary to working safely, no one would bother. It would be WAAAAAAY easier to just slap new kaowool in and spray it every so often than dealing wirh refractory on every relining of the forge.

@@drstrangefart gotcha.

Just depends on when I make it back into the shop.

Thanks!

Check eBay for the Kydex, I usually find it way cheaper there than anywhere else. It'll be defects which might affect one sheet in the 50 in the box. Making your own Kydex press is super easy, and tons of instructions exist online for them.

@@drstrangefart thanks for the tip 👍

I once had a wife that at the end there I would have taken a half eaten Twizzler for.

Thanks! This one took some extra effort to get done for sure.

You sure as hell didn't leggo those Eggos that's for sure.

I FOUND THOSE PICTURES and you can't prove otherwise.

@@drstrangefart ALL LIES 🙉

Thanks! I hope to be putting it to some good use this week on the tomahawk.

That's the hope. The welds SHOULD hold.

Yeah, at this point your welds are probably looking better than mine.

@@drstrangefart Nah. Bout the same. But it sticked it.👍

Just remember, I'm certainly no expert. All we have on display is the net sum total of how I muddled through it.

@@drstrangefart I have no welder, and even gorilla glue won't save me. Lol

If you gotta make an eye punch, use a ball pien hammer head. It already has an eye for a handle, and it'll treat you just fine for a good handful of projects. I believe I did a video on making one out of a ball pien about a year ago.

Yessir. I'm now fully geared up to make something I've never made before so the most interesting part is quite imminent.

Thanks!

The best starter hammer eye punch is made from a ball pien hammer head. You can use the ball pien as a striking face. They work quite well. The drift can be mild steel if you don't have anything else on hand. I didn't happen to have any spare ball pien heads laying around so I just went with what I had available to me.

@@drstrangefart thanks for the tip, I'll do that 👍

Thanks! In this case, going back to the shorter handle type that I'm used to helped out a lot.

@@drstrangefart awesome! whatever it is if it works for you i say stick with it!

Are you coming on to me?

@@drstrangefart for a year..... Cluelessness

Don't ask Rebecca how long it took her to give up being subtle and just flat out tell me what she was after.

@@drstrangefart you still don't know... Too be fair goober 😜

HEY YOU GUYS! BEN'S ACTING WEIRD.

A little bit, yeah.

Thanks. After having used them for a few projects in others' shops I very quickly realized just how valuable they are to have on site. I may not use it often but when I need one it will be indispensable.

I hope so, I can say with some confidence that I did not do that in an ideal way.

Thanks, man! Making hammers just got a bit easier for sure.

I'm pretty sure the rods were okay, but not intended to run that hot. I'll definitely keep the ground clamp advice close to heart going forward. I'm gonna be practicing controlling the puddle more in the future, the rods drooping made it nearly impossible on this. If I were to do it all over again I would have clamped the slabs on a diagonal so I could just flat weld my beads.

@@drstrangefart seat time is the best way to get better man and sorry if it came across as bossy or any good job keep at it

No worries, man. Seat time is the key. I still have a lot to get the hang of with this buzz box and these rods. I'm very realistic with myself about it. For THIS job a bigger welder would have been the right way to do it. I'm sure on smaller projects with thinner steel the results are gonna be much more coherent.

Thanks! I'm just glad it's usable now.