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The Florida Captain
Добавлен 7 авг 2023
Owner & Captain at Sun & Sea Charters
Node Red with Signal K on the Open Source Yacht project - plus frustrating hardware failures
Captain continues the Open Source Yacht project with the third automation and dashboard solution - Node Red. Spoiler Alert: Its awesome. Plus, we deal with frustrating hardware failures interrupting our data flow.
Просмотров: 2 027
Видео
Exploring the Islands off Cartagena and the Walled City
Просмотров 9514 дней назад
We take you on a quick trip to Cartagena Colombia on the northern coast of South America. We cruise out to numerous islands and explore the historic fortifications of the ancient walled city.
The Open Source Yacht - Building Instrument Dashboards with Grafana and InfluxDB - Part V
Просмотров 2,2 тыс.21 день назад
Captain continues the open source yacht project and explores building instrument dashboards from SignalK using Grafana and InfluxDB.
Building an Open Source Boat with Raspberry Pi & NMEA 2000 - Part IV | OpenPlotter, Signal K, KIP
Просмотров 31 тыс.Месяц назад
Building an Open Source Boat with Raspberry Pi & NMEA 2000 - Part IV | OpenPlotter, Signal K, KIP
Cruising from Siesta Key to Anna Maria Island: Perfect Day on the Water while dodging Storms!
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.2 месяца назад
Join TheFloridaCaptain on an unforgettable cruising adventure from Siesta Key to Anna Maria Island! Experience the stunning beauty of Florida's Gulf Coast as we set sail on a gorgeous day, enjoying the crystal-clear waters and the vibrant marine life. Our journey takes us to Anna Maria Island for a delightful lunch, followed by a fun-filled afternoon at the Jewfish Key sandbar. In this video, w...
Replacing Bad Bilge Pumps on a Sea Ray SLX 30 foot cruiser
Просмотров 6362 месяца назад
Captain dives into the boat to diagnose and resolve bilge pump issues.
The Open Source Yacht - Building a boat network - Part III
Просмотров 2,1 тыс.2 месяца назад
Captain continues the Open Source Yacht project by building a robust network of NMEA 2000, Ethernet and USB devices for under $500. Partial Parts List (will add more) SunFounder PiPower Raspberry Pi UPS Power Supply amzn.to/4fTClg2 TICONN Waterproof Electrical Junction Box IP67 ABS Plastic Enclosure with Hinged Cover with Mounting Plate, Wall Brackets, Cable Glands (Clear, 8.7"x6.7"x4.3") amzn....
The Open Source Yacht - The Brain using a Raspberry Pi and Hats - Part II
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.2 месяца назад
Captain continues the Open Source Yacht experiment and builds a Raspberry Pi computer as the brain with onboard backup power as well as NMEA 2000 and NMEA 0183,
Swimming with Pigs in stunning Rose Cay, Bahamas
Просмотров 1313 месяца назад
Captain and crew take a little break in the Bahamas and visit stunning and remote Rose Cay to swim with the pigs.
Installing Cheap Seadek on a Boston Whaler
Просмотров 4,3 тыс.3 месяца назад
Installing Cheap Seadek on a Boston Whaler
Replacing the Fuel Water Separator Filters on a Mercruiser and miscellaneous maintenance.
Просмотров 1973 месяца назад
Replacing the Fuel Water Separator Filters on a Mercruiser and miscellaneous maintenance.
Replacing a Ruined Prop and 5 big upgrades for the '68 Whaler
Просмотров 3304 месяца назад
Replacing a Ruined Prop and 5 big upgrades for the '68 Whaler
The Open Source Yacht - Free Internet - Part I
Просмотров 3,7 тыс.4 месяца назад
The Open Source Yacht - Free Internet - Part I
Replacing Ruined Bilge Blowers on a boat
Просмотров 6844 месяца назад
Replacing Ruined Bilge Blowers on a boat
Siesta Key's Hidden Beach: Journey Through the Mangroves to Midnight Pass
Просмотров 1414 месяца назад
Siesta Key's Hidden Beach: Journey Through the Mangroves to Midnight Pass
Beast Mode Engine Upgrade for the '68 Boston Whaler 13
Просмотров 3,1 тыс.5 месяцев назад
Beast Mode Engine Upgrade for the '68 Boston Whaler 13
SHARKS! Running from storms and fishing for Snapper & Grouper but we found a 6.5 foot shark!
Просмотров 1985 месяцев назад
SHARKS! Running from storms and fishing for Snapper & Grouper but we found a 6.5 foot shark!
Catching Florida Stone Crab in February - Florida Gulf Coast Fishing
Просмотров 8147 месяцев назад
Catching Florida Stone Crab in February - Florida Gulf Coast Fishing
Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Throttles, Finishing Touches & Sea Trial
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Throttles, Finishing Touches & Sea Trial
Offshore fishing for Red Grouper on the Florida west coast
Просмотров 2447 месяцев назад
Offshore fishing for Red Grouper on the Florida west coast
Custom Steering installed for the Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Part VIII
Просмотров 5317 месяцев назад
Custom Steering installed for the Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Part VIII
Installed Custom Console in a 1968 Boston Whaler 13 - Part VII - Boston Whaler 13 Restoration
Просмотров 9007 месяцев назад
Installed Custom Console in a 1968 Boston Whaler 13 - Part VII - Boston Whaler 13 Restoration
Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Custom Console construction - Part VI (Episode 8)
Просмотров 3578 месяцев назад
Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Custom Console construction - Part VI (Episode 8)
1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration Part V - Continuing the Custom Interior
Просмотров 4708 месяцев назад
1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration Part V - Continuing the Custom Interior
1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration Part IV - Interior Wood (Episode 6)
Просмотров 5738 месяцев назад
1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration Part IV - Interior Wood (Episode 6)
Part III - 1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Interior and Sea Trial
Просмотров 3239 месяцев назад
Part III - 1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration - Interior and Sea Trial
Stone Crab in Sarasota Bay - First Haul (Episode 4)
Просмотров 589 месяцев назад
Stone Crab in Sarasota Bay - First Haul (Episode 4)
Part II - 1968 Boston Whaler 13 Interior Restoration (Episode 3)
Просмотров 2079 месяцев назад
Part II - 1968 Boston Whaler 13 Interior Restoration (Episode 3)
1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration with Original Engine! - Part 1 - (Episode 2)
Просмотров 4609 месяцев назад
1968 Boston Whaler 13 Restoration with Original Engine! - Part 1 - (Episode 2)
Getting your USCG Captain's License - explained in detail (Episode 1) - OUPV 6-Pack
Просмотров 625Год назад
Getting your USCG Captain's License - explained in detail (Episode 1) - OUPV 6-Pack
For reliable 4g/5g router options you might want to check out Teltonika
Could a lot of these failures be because of bad electricity (unclean wave)? or bad voltage?
Maybe. I’ll look into this.
Cool project. Looks to be very in depth pun not intended
Ha, it sure is!
Very intresting project
Thanks, I think so!
That will be a long time project. Nice work!
It will!
Truncate? Ok for depth, I guess (pessamistic) but wind speed and bearing? Nah!
I know I know. Precision not required during testing, just trying to pretty things up!
Part 2?
Well, I never did a Part II but here's some guidance. I used MLS again, it took about 1/4 the time and I used MMSEAS to manage the license process for me. All in all, much easier than the OUPV. Gotta have you sea time on the right sized vessel of course.
Look at Peplink for a quality modem built for the RV/Marine/Fleet industry. More expensive, but you get what you pay for.
Would you really trust a rasp-pi to do this?
With an analog backup, maybe. I’ll have working analog garages on the engines. I’ll have a compass, etc. The reason this is on a board in my house is for stress testing. Lots of cruisers and sailors are going this path.
@@TheFloridaCaptain Good on you man, its just a scary thing when you think how basic systems on SOC's fail and in non-life/death situations. If you have a backup, awesome!
A huge part of this for me is learning. I WANT to know how something fundamentally works even if I choose a black box system (Simrad etc). Thanks for sharing!
Very cool. I have most of the stuff i need for this, just missing the boat.
I’m missing the boat for this project! But it’s coming soon I hope!
One thing to make sure to check is the value or aggregation type in Grafana's guages. You might want some gauges like position to show Last rather than the default of Last * (last non null) so that if your position data drops, it doesnt continue to show the last valid data and confuse matters. Likewise, make sure you don't accidentally start averaging it or something disasterous like that. I've no experience on yachts but stale values has caused me headaches in Grafana dashboards!
Great ideas. Thanks for sharing.
I second that you should not use sd card in a pi, either use an usb 3.0 connected usb drive or even better use an ssd, in the pro setup i would invest in an nvme. Believe me, i have burned 7 sd cards and 2 flash usb stick.
I’m convinced! Pi5 with SSD coming soon to video!
Hi, would you give the reference of the 12v powered usb hub ? thx a lot
USB 7 Port Hub - Powered USB 3.0 Hub - Aluminum USB Hub -USB Splitter Hub 12V 3A 36W Power Adapter amzn.to/3yADkAY Looks unavailable. I'd look for a 12v (or whatever your power source supply is) with good reviews
dunno if home assistant works with these systems. as it would help with notifications/automations and camera setup
I’m looking at Home Assistant soon!
Hi, do you have a list somewhere with what you use and where you bought it? like the waterproof boxes, and especially the pi power . thanks a lot
I need to do better about links to my build lists. In the meantime, here's the two you requested! SunFounder PiPower Raspberry Pi UPS Power Supply amzn.to/4fTClg2 TICONN Waterproof Electrical Junction Box IP67 ABS Plastic Enclosure with Hinged Cover with Mounting Plate, Wall Brackets, Cable Glands (Clear, 8.7"x6.7"x4.3") amzn.to/4dQcGmi
Great video. Would it be possible to provide a parts list in the description? I love that box.
I need to do better at Parts lists. Here is the box. a.co/d/ejc2B9F
Great job. I’ve done two RiB dinghy’s with the same material plus a ski boat. The ski boat has lasted 5 years. I do keep it covered. The ribs one is at two years and down in the Caribbean. Going strong. I templated both of mine with plastic as you did the second half. I have not used the spray glue and mine have held up well. One thing I do different is I have had great success using heavy duty scissors to cut mine out. Since the quote for brand name installed was $1175 in my 11’ dink, $115 can be replaced with new in 2-3 years if need be. Be cheaper and look new all along.
Great to hear. I’m impressed so far for sure!
More food for thought. (in the section that this video pertains to Internet access) On my last boat, I had a Cradlepoint Router AER1600 Series Edge Router, Parallel Networks and two SIM cards and a dock based ethernet for triple redundancy, yes this is way more dollars but in nearly 7 years never burped once. I had before that the Cradlepoint MBR1200B for about 6 years prior to that. All reliable gear (now owned by Ericsson) You can pick these up used for pretty cheap. Of course, this is a departure from where you are headed. My present system uses Victron Cerbo GX (Android / IOS App or PC to access all of my Electronics all on my NMEA 2000 Network.
Im watching the Spitz router closely in my test environment. I’ve had a couple of hiccups so we will see if I actually use it. A lot of folks like Peplink
Just a thought, I would have mounted the exhaust fan toward the top of the cabinet. Reason being, hot air rises, and with the fans across from each other the air will likely pass straight through and not accomplish heat relief or humidity control. The box may be small enough not to matter but, for whatever it is worth. Cool project.
Great idea.
You should look into upgraded memory, like using a NVME solution. Better reliability and speed. Also, you can probably monitor the power via Home Assistant and have an alert sent to you in the event of power loss.
I think I will soon with a Pi 5
dont use an SD card it will fail 100% 3/3 PIs failed for me in home assistant long term use
Yep. Pi 5 and SSD soon!
Feels to me like having a time series dashboard like this would be a useful addition to Kip. Graphing out vessel speed, wind speed, alternator input, solar input, power consumption, temperatures etc. Something like that along side a Kip dashboard showing engine rpm, position, rudder angle and such.
Great thoughts.
Software engineer here. InfluxDB and Grafana are inherently time-based historical dashboards. When SignalK sends a data packet to InfluxDB, think of it like recording an observation in a log. Grafana can then visualize that log of observations on a graph. In Grafana, you always select a time window (like "last 5 minutes" or "last 3 months" or "all of 2023") - when it shows "no data", it's because there were no observations recorded in your selected time window. "No data" is often a useful state to see on your gauge - for example, if you're plotting your current GPS position, "No Data" is what you would expect to see if your GPS receiver was turned off. Grafana will prefer to tell you that it has no data, rather than show you data that may be out of date and incorrect. $0.02 I think Grafana/InfluxDB is also a great choice for realtime dashboards. You can look at the gauge to see the "current" value (i.e. the most recent log entry) - but you can also plot, say, the last hour of historical data, which will tell you if there was an anomaly that happened when you weren't looking at the gauge. Note that because this system is always adding data to the log, the amount of hard drive space it uses will also be slowly growing, and eventually, maybe years later, you will run out. You may want to look into configuring a "retention period" in InfluxDB so that data older than, say, a year, is automatically deleted from the log. Great video, and super helpful! Thanks!
Great perspective and I appreciate you sharing. I need to look into the frequency that SignalK is pushing data.
I am a fan of the Prometheus time series database with Grafana.
Thanks. I’ll look into it.
Use the Pi5 with NVMe drive. I put a TB system together. Your choke point is the SD card. Electrical engineer here. And have this system running on my boat. Also, find VNC very slow. Good for updating the settings. I run HDMI over ethernet directly to the Pi from the helm with touch. 15" sunlight readable and waterproof screen.
As an engineer how would you do the box? Sealed and no fans or the way I did it?
@@TheFloridaCaptain HEAT is the enemy of Pi's since the Pi 3. They get hot in a hurry and the CPU throttles it's top speed to cope, probably why you were crashing a lot? I've tried all sorts of bigger heatsinks so I can run faster than stock CPU clock speeds. I'd say the least painful route to get around being inside a sealed box is if you water-cooled the Pi with a small external radiator. There's several RUclips videos that show how. The big problem I'd imagine is the Pi hat probably blocks off most easy access to the CPU to use bigger heatsinks or even run some heat pipes from the CPU outside the box to an external heatsink? If you modeled the design off of passive cooled PC towers you could put the whole thing in an aluminum box and run a copper tube from the CPU to the aluminum box, using it as a big heatsink. Just need CPU thermal grease or pads making good contact on each end of the tube. Could solder on little flat copper sheeting pads on at least the CPU side.
This is going to be interesting !!
Thanks, sure is!
The connectors are called Dupont connectors.
Thanks for clarifying!
Air fans based cooling won't last long primarily because of salt humidity in the atmosphere. Liquid cooling with the external radiator is the way
I agree. I’ll move to a Pi 5 with SSD soon and eliminate the fans too
You should have used an actual rugged computer. Onlogic is a leader in this world.
I might one day. Part of the experiment was seeing how low I could keep the cost. No doubt I’ll have some failures (on land) and improve some things.
Colombia no Columbia
Oh man! Fixed!
So cool video-series. I have a boat whit two old ad41b. I wold love to have engine data in digital chape. And fuel consumption. But I heard it's difficult whit diesel. Thanks for sharing. And yes I start following you 👍
I’m working on buying a 20 year old twin diesel Pilothouse. So someday, I’m probably dealing with your exact situation. Stay tuned!
Why not use an LTE hat on the rasberry pi? It would reduce your points of failure and give you more granular control over the network configuration
Short answer is I already had the modem but this is a good idea.
Since you talked about engine sensors and gauges. The boat you will eventually get will very likely have sensors and engine control panels already installed. If you want that data somewhere else you will need dedicated sensors for that on the engine side. You cant piggyback of the existing ones or your data will be off. Analog to Digital conversion can be done in software or with a dedicated Analog to Digital card. Both instances will need calibrating. Temps and pressures are best done by comparing values with gauges you screw into the engine block and in the cooling system. The old fashioned ones with a needle. Whats more importantt than extreme precision is to get good baseline values for all measurements and to plot those together with the actual values. Pro Tip : get a pressure sensor and install it right after the seawater intake pump. On the pressure side. It will warn you of about a lack of cooling well before the engine overheats.
Great advice and I appreciate you taking the time. I know I’ll have to adapt to the engines I get. I like the idea of having additional digital sensors in locations where sensors aren’t now. Just need the boat!
@@TheFloridaCaptain If you like sensordata I can suggest high and low level sensors for fuel tanks and coolant expansion tank. Both are mandatory in commercial shipping. Low fuel is obvious and high fuel against overfilling. Low coolant can indicate leaks and high coolant can indicate overheating.
I’m probably going to pick your brain soon! I’ll look up sensordata
@@TheFloridaCaptain sure thing
If I were you. Id pivot from the Rpi and use an x86 board that has gpio. Like the Latte Panda for instance. Which also already has a fan is going to solve many of the issues your are facing and will continue to face with the rpi. Like CPU performance, overheating, storage issues, etc.
I might do this. Let’s see how it goes with a Pi 5 too.
Not sure how I came across this video (probably doesn't help that I'm friends with @DeadlyDragon_) but as a fellow Floridian who does IT for a living, I love this project. I've always had fun with OpenCPN and a cellular modem when on friends boats. Also, I'm jealous of your test board with all the NEMA connections and all the labeling. Keeps making me want a boat...
It’s fun for sure!
17:46 voice audio cuts out here.
Strange, I hear it fine when I play it?
Hrm…this AM, I get voice channel just fine. Quality work there RUclips! Thanks for the videos!
Very beautiful view😮
It sure is! Thanks!
Agin just use Honme assistant as the core to control and monitor all the systems. Reinventing the wheel but doing it worse . Most other open sourced tools you need can be integrated easily enough.
I’m going to look at Home Assistant next so expect a video. But, I do think I need SignalK (though I could be wrong!)
I mean... Home Assistant is great and all... but I feel like something more dedicated to Marine-ish applications would be better fitting (eliminate variables, latency, etc when it comes to processing real-time data)
I’m thinking about HA for non critical systems. House lights etc. future vid!
@@TheFloridaCaptain HA with Zigbee sensors has been great on my boat this season. Agreed- non critical its a great tool. Im using BBN as a secondary system backing up my Furuno system.
Very cool. Congrats. Sometimes playing with boat stuff is more fun than boating
Ha, I know the feeling. I like both (boating with projects) so long as its not unexpectedly upside down in an engine room underway!
I do a lot of network installations on island homes where there is a lot of sea blast, so similar environment to a boat. If you can get away with not bringing outside air into your enclosures for cooling, it would be better to run things a bit hotter that bringing that salty air into your enclosure. I have a lot of PoE network switches in sealed enclosures, and they run pretty hot because of the lack of external cooling, but I have found that actually is still better than bringing in external air. Even though you are exhausting air, it will still be sucking in air from somewhere. If you do need some active cooling of the enclosure, it might be better to move air around the inside of enclosure and move some of the air past a heatsink that is coupled to the outside, but doesn't let any air in.
I think about the fans and holes a lot. I’ll likely experiment with heat sinks before an actual install.
@@TheFloridaCaptain I agree with all the above. Micro Sd cards fail way too often for this application. Don't use ventilators to avoid water ingress. Try the biggest heatsink you can get instead. Think about how you bring cables into your boxes. Never from the top and always use cable glands. Think about a robust power supply. On the barges I work on we use 12 Volt DC screens and 12V DC Windows pc's for the software. I'm not sure what the Raspberry Pi is doing there to be honest. Convert a small windows pc to linux and add a IO card and you can drop the RPI altogether. It's the weak link in your system. Just my 3 cents.
everything wireless would be so much easier...
Easier yes and there may be times when I’ll go that route but I prefer the reliability of a hard line.
I don’t think the whaler needs this lol😮
No, the Whaler needs a worthy mothership!
@@TheFloridaCaptain That’s is very true make her proud
Wat was the results with a load in the boat. Did the 40hp make much of an improvement?
I’ll take it back out and film soon. Short answer, game changing. It’s plenty of power and I think above 40 would start being overkill. This will be a tender by crane so weight matters too.
I’m currently sailing with open cpn on a Pi 5, and Navionics that costs me $80/yr for my phone or tablet hotspots to my phone, my tablet is lte it uses the gps chip download the charts when you have internet offshore use saved maps and gps only no other connection
Yup I’m subscribed 😂
Exactly!
Can’t you guys use Home Assistant to control all of the vessels systems? Then add your own navigation integration?
$24K on screens and they die regularly many yacht owners complain about this.
Right!?
Great video, love the board, I used to do this at work, I am an industrial electrician, I used to build panels with AC drives PLC’s and computers controlling industrial manufacturing machines, same process as yours then move to an enclosure when fully functional Looks like we are on the same wave length with our projects I now monitor pi cpu temp to determine box cooling keep up the great videos I’m learning from you 😂
Thanks for sharing!
Although, I do wonder if I could do this with heat shrinks and no fans and thus, a truly sealed box
@@TheFloridaCaptain the Pis are low heat but depending on the application running on them they could require some cooling.
@TheFloridaCaptain With a sealed enclosure, technically adding a heatsink to the Pi will accelerate how fast the inside air of the enclosure heats up. Without a heatsink, the heat moves to the surrounding air inefficiently (air is a poor conductor of heat) and the heat will inefficiently move from the air, thru the enclosure inefficiently (plastics are almost as poor conductors of heat) to the outside air. Eventually the air temp inside the enclosure will reach an equilibrium as the air can only move a certain amount of heat and the enclosure can only dissipate a certain amount of heat in a given amount of time. If you add a heatsink to the Pi, you will increase the surface area the heat source has. Sure, the Pi's temperature will momentarily drop as the heatsink sinks the heat from the Pi to itself. But eventually the heatsink will have sunk as much heat as it can and the Pi's temperature will increase. Because you increase the surface area of the heat source, it can move it's heat to the surrounding air faster. If you have a fan on the heatsink, you will further increase the transfer rate of heat to the surrounding air. Air thermal conductivity ~0.025W/m*k ABS (enclosure material) ~0.130W/m*k Acrylic (presumably lid material) ~0.170W/m*k Aluminium 237W/m*k Steel ~45W/m*k Stainless (316) ~16W/m*k Then there's obviously the thickness of the material to consider to get a true idea of heat transfer but the above is just for reference. Feel free to geek out with formulas and calculations if you want. But what I'm thinking is.. With just the Pi, you're dealing with only a few funny little watts of heat. That's pretty insignificant. Place the heat producing components to the bottom of the enclosure so you utilize the natural convection currents to mix the air inside the enclosure. By the air mixing, you probably increase the heat flow from the inside of the enclosure to the outside. This way, the air isn't stagnant and just sit against the sides of the enclosure doing nothing. Warmer air at the top transfers it's heat to the enclosure and the enclosure to the outside air. The air get's a little colder and eventually sinks to the bottom. Not a very efficient process but it will move some heat. But the effect is very minor. Sure, hot air rises but even a wimpy fan will easily overpower the convection current. So the next step on the path of escalation is to add a fan blowing upwards to force the air to move and mix and help increase the heat transfer. Maybe place it on the inside edge of the enclosure. So it kind of creates a spin in the air.. If that is not enough, change the material of the enclosure to metal. And if we're being pedantic, the paint on steel enclosures surface will limit the transfer of heat (conductivity etc.) but the layer is thin and like I said above, you need to consider the thickness as well as the conductivity. The next step after that is to mount a heatsink to the inside surface of the metal enclosure and have a fan blow on it. Preferably with thermal paste or thermal glue/epoxy under the heatsink. Or a phase change thermal pad if you're fancy (Honeywell PTM7950). You might also look into conformal coating or maybe even encapsulating your electronics. To start you can search for "electrolube conformal coatings vs encapsulation". Or "parylene Best Conformal Coating for Moisture and Chemical Protection". Even if you have a sealed enclosure, conformal coating the boards probably doesn't hurt. Just make sure you've plugged in everything you intend to plug in before coating. Regarding fans, purchase high quality fans. Noctua is a popular choice. And if you end up with a bigger enclosure, their IndustrialPPC lineup (120mm/140mm) have fans with IP52 or IP67 rating. But all Noctua fans have a 6 year warranty. And their regular lineup has the same quality bearing as the industrial lineup. So if you don't need the IP rating or you need a smaller fan (40/60/80/92mm), look at the regular lineup. Maybe contact them and ask what they think about your use case. They have an awesome customer support. (perhaps even hint about this project, might get a care package) If noise is an issue, don't look at the voltage. At some point you replaced a 12V fan with a 5V one. Just because the voltage is lower doesn't mean it's any quieter. I would advise you to look in to PWM control (with a PWM fan) to adjust the speed. Or just lower the voltage of the fan to reduce the speed. There are potentiometer fan controllers around or you could just add a resistor in series with the fan to reduce the speed. You can calculate the value of the resistor with online calculators or just try what works. For example a 12V fan that draws 0.2A and you want to it to only spin at 7V, something in the neighbourhood of 40-45ohms should get you there. If you can't make it (PWM control) happen with the Pi, look for a small control board to do that. Search for something like "dc 12v pwm fan temperature control". I have a little control board like that, which cost 2€, in my AV cabinet controlling a 12V computer fan acting as an exhaust. Annoying board to configure with it's single button interface and the manual is really not helpful but in the end it was worth it. Other variants of the board do have dip switches though if you prefer that. Or you could buy a fan that already has temperature control. For example the TC lineup from Artic, the smallest fan is 80mm. Around 500rpm until 32*C and ramps to 2000rpm at 38*C so pretty aggressive curve but you don't need to configure anything. They have a long 6 year warranty as well.
You should take a look at youtube.com/@smartboatinnovations?si=NItVAvL2jcM_i39z he is connecting home assistant to the NMEA network and doing some cool things. If I remember correctly he had it set up so it would turn on lights and even the horn. It has also set up an integration for an anchor alarm. I have seen a better on in Zora from inav4u which also calculates the scope for you. But this will send alarm signals to you and your phone. I am a bit of a home assistant junkie so I thought this was really cool.
Thanks. I’ll check this out!
@@TheFloridaCaptain If you haven't used Home Assistant one of the most amazing things it has is the historical data, and you can push this out to other systems such as grafana so you can do even better. The one thing I would change about your system is to add some power shunts to monitor energy usable. HA has some amazing power monitoring. So for example you can monitor how much power in being put in and taken out of your battery, and battery level. Also you could monitor your shore power usage so you can see how much is being brought in and lastly how much solar is being generated as well. You can also monitor how much power parts of your system use. Answer the question how much power does your nav station use. I know I geek out on this too much. :)
This is all really interesting. I think HA may be in my future.
You may want to run your box cooling fans on a relay using a bme280 (temp, press, humidity) and node red software to minimize power consumption. Since the bme280 is i2c, you could also monitor the box temp in KIP.
Great idea. I have a bme280 laying around too.
This is a really cool project! Excited to see where you take it. As someone else pointed out, the SD card on your pi is the single most likely thing to fail. I would strongly recommend you use an SSD instead of an SD card if you can help it. If you must use an SD card, invest in a "high endurance" card. Several brands make them - most will be branded as "high endurance", "industrial", or "edge". Still, an SSD is definitely the way to go IMO. Edit: I believe the pi 5 has a dedicated PCIE interface, that you can use to directly attach a PCIE (NVME) SSD. If this were my project, I would do exactly this.
I think this is a good idea (and also moving to Pi 5).
Are you doing fuzz testing?
As in testing for police nearby? ;). Tell me more!