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Yeah, it's a bit annoying the way it was done, and I was almost tempted to use a battery case with longer leads running to the bottom, for better accessibility. No matter now, it's done. Happy to say it is still working, and the cooker is getting used probably every other day. 12 years old now!

@@felix_da_katze yeah agree its definitely great quality, coincidently I believe I am on my 12th year too haha. I actually was never bothered about the battery being dead as I didnt use the timer but wife just bought a spare rice cooker. I asked her why she bought a new mini one, she goes.. it has a timer lol. So now I'm determined to fix this one.

Too funny! Yeah, it became annoying not having the timer...just so convenient.

@@felix_da_katze so I ended up wiring in a double AAA battery holder and double taping it inside near the top so I can easily just swap two AAA (2 x 1.5v for the 3V), should be pretty decent for battery capacity. Will see how long they last.

I'm pretty sure the battery is only needed for keeping the clock going while the unit is unpowered. So I think it should last a long time. I did consider mounting a CR battery case externally, under the unit, so I'd never have to open it again, but didn't for whatever reason.

Sounds like it isn't lifting up properly. Cracked plastics or maybe something wrong with the solenoid that raises the arm, are where I'd be looking first. You'll need to take the covers off and have a look.

@@felix_da_katze , thank you!

There is a round hole where the ground wire plugs in, and you normally have a ground screw on the back of your amp to connect the other end. You could just jam a thick enough multistrand wire in there, if you can't find the right plug end, or attach it via some solder or something. But the case of the record player is plastic, so it must be attached to that grounding point. I've seen some people say you can attach the ground to the outer of one of the RCA jacks to simplify things, but that did not work when I tried it. I'm sure the engineers thought of it when they designed it, and they wouldn't have done anything unnecessary.

No, I have been meaning to install the new laser unit, but just haven't got around to it yet. One day...

It could be that the voltage is too low to get it to spin, so it turns into a dead short.

maybe you are right, but how could a resistor short circuit itself at lower voltages ? it had no contact whatsoever to the main speed regulator circuit or anything, it just connects the + to the - pin, does not even interfer with the main system, but anyways, when i have the time i will try to run it at 5V. (as i said, it worked fine when i first did a 5V test)

Needle clean? I use compressed air to give mine a clean from time to time, sounds very muddy when it has bunch of dust on it. Otherwise maybe needs a new cartridge.

They've always been out of spec, but they often come with a host of other problems. I think if it is working, then leave it be. It's quite a frustrating process if you don't really have any issues. I have to do it, because I take the whole mechanism apart to fix the plastics.

Good idea. Just done.

@@felix_da_katze Why did you use 47uF@16V for bipolars instead of the stock 100uF?

I replaced based on the values that were actually installed on the board. I'm guessing it was a different revision, because another SL-5 had BP 100uFs installed, and that's what I was expecting.

@felix_da_katze oh yeah I see in your video that they were 47uf

Yeah, I try not to second guess what they've done :) I might update the list to say Please check with whats installed.

I imagine they are a great player when you get them working. I haven't quite got there yet. Need to dig them out of the cupboard.

That is a really good question, and the answer might be a bit surprising. I actually couldn't remember seeing a fuse inside, and so I checked the service manual. It indicates that a small PCB for the fuse is located between the transformer and powerswitch. I checked my video, couldn't see it. So I then opened the one I have next to my desk. No fuse! So digging through the manual, it seems only XA models (220~240V) were fit with a fuse. But there is certainly a few tabs and a hole that looks like it was designed to accept something. So my guess is, if you don't see one in that location, it was never fit with one. With the scenario you have described, I would try desoldering the wires from the transformer where they connect to the PCB and check the transformer isn't cooked (you should get around 19.3V out according to service manual), then have a look at the PCB for any signs of damage. If you have a bench power supply you could try feeding in voltage to the PCB (ramp up slowly to 19.3V) and then check for signs of life. Check some easy stuff too, like the main axial capacitor (the big one!) isn't showing dead short across terminals. You might get lucky that a few input components died and sacrificed themselves and saved the board. I would guess that's the case, but without seeing it, hard to offer any more specific advice.

@@felix_da_katze Many thanks for the complete list of information, mine is just like yours don't hove pcb fuse, I have a bench power supply I'll try to connect with the main board, I already checked the transformer and it's dead, 0v on the secondary, I'm not a professional, I'm a curious person that likes to learn, just one question, I will desolder the wires from the output side of the transformer and connect the bench power supply on that wires, what is the + and - ? Many thanks again for the useful information.

If you connect the bench supply up to where the transformer was soldered, it wont matter the polarity. The rectifier should take care of it. It is possible some kind of over current protection was built into the transformer, but I think it means that transformer is dead. No matter, you best bet now would be to replace with a transformer than can take your 220V and give you 19.3 out, and fit that (once you've confirmed the unit is working of course). Best of luck! Any questions, I check here every few days.

@@felix_da_katze Thanks again for the help, I have checked the transformer and on the primary there is no continuity, the secondary I think is ok, I will remove the transformer and I was thinking of plugging my Variac with 19.3v AC to the 2 wires that go to the PCB, what you think? Sorry for my English, because is not my first language. Best regards.

Yeah, you should be able to do that. It is expecting AC, so if you have a way to give it AC, go for it. If you press the power switch and get a red light, you might be in luck. But check things carefully, and if you have way to limit current, do that too. I can understand you fine, no need to apologise. If any of my explanations are hard to follow or understand, let me know and I'll try again.

If it worked properly in the past then just replace the caps that you see. These were sold all over the world, with minor variations, so any omission is likely deliberate.

Yes, some records are just a bit oversized, but it seems they have just a bit more lead in than anything else. I haven't had any cause any problems though. Just thinking on this for a minute, I think it might be something to do with the size detector switch/lever. I have a fix for that, but not sure if I can find the video. Stay tuned, as it is supposed to be the final section of the series, but things got in the way of getting it finished and uploaded.

Yes, there is a plastic hub for singles. Unfortunately, I don't have a spare, but I suspect almost any would do, so long as it centres the record properly. And I am sure I have seen some generic aftermarket ones. However, the centre hub doesn't have anything to do with sensing whether a 33 or 45 is being played. Good candidate for 3D printing. That is all down to the sensor at the back and if you are taping it over, then you are fooling the machine that an LP is on. Default behaviour should be to move into the single position, if the arm activating the sensor was broken for instance. Actually calling it a sensor is a bit of a stretch, it is a fairly generic switch operated by a plastic lever.

@@felix_da_katzeNo, I'm not referring to that hub for records with larger center hole. I found out about the 25 cm record adaptor on the manual itself. It's an adaptor that has to be installed when you want to play 10" records with a normal hole as in the 12" records. It is to be installed near the plate on the back. Anyway, I found out that even with that adaptor you have to press the play button continuously first time I press it to move the arm to the 10" record. Thank you for answering. :)

Glad you have it sorted. I've got service manuals, but maybe not the user manual, so I might have to dig one up to understand this properly. Thanks for sharing!

Nice! I haven't seen one for sale yet...somewhat envious!

Glad you go it sorted!

If it's the one I'm thinking of...there's a hole for it on the underside towards the right on the panel that comes off. It is a bit of a pain to get back in, and I thought it is explained in a bit more detail in one of these videos, if not in the series, perhaps an earlier one? Might have been left on the cutting room floor...

@@felix_da_katze thanks for the fast response! its the unnumbered pushpin in the service manual beside the two numbered screws for the tonearm motor lid. I failed finding the hole in the panel.🤔

Open the lid, and feel under with your finger, you are bound to find it. If I get a chance I'll take a photo and post back tomorrow.

i.ibb.co/BzmNPGH/IMG-20240119-150555.jpg i.ibb.co/C2DFGpM/IMG-20240119-150658.jpg

thank you very much! 😀The pin seems to be positionend behind the last clamp on the right. I'll try but i think, it's not necessary for a propper function. My SL-5 ist working fine. maybe need a new needle.@@felix_da_katze

Some painters tape over the lid switch.

Thanks! May your vinyl be clean and unscratched.

That's good to hear. I hope these videos are useful to you!

It is probably best to view this series in conjunction with a copy of the service manual. Pin 3 is the pin described in the service manual, and I actually hooked up to a different point, but connected directly on the same trace. It isn't really specified what happens if you are a little bit out on voltage. My advice, get it as close as you can. Going for perfection will drive you nuts and likely not make that much difference. There might be another standalone video on servo gain that I did before making this series - might be worth having a look at that too.

Excellent! They are great players, and I have not really looked for anything "better". Intermittent faults are always the hardest to find, hopefully that was a one off and it behaves itself.

I'm not too sure to be honest. It's been a while since I've looked at this, I'd need to dig it out to have a look.

Hello there! Did you ever come up with a solution? I just bought the same camera and am having the same issue: when I do the half press, nothing seems to happen for the focus (I can’t tell a difference in the viewfinder, and the lens itself doesn’t move like I have seen on other tutorials of this camera). Thank you for any insight!! @samlawson635

¿Tienes una foto? imgbb.com/ es conveniente.

If it is in working condition then that might not be bad value. I'd guess there is some work to be done though. Definitely worth the time and effort if you can do it.

I just opened the box plugged in and put on a tester record, but not plugged into a receiver. The platter turned and the needle dropped at the beginning. But I noticed the needle was not tracking and jumping. So I had a look at the needle and there was none and worn away. So my next question is how do I get the needle or cartridge off? I pulled on it a bit and nothing was coming loose. So I see this turn know and it seems to be moving and loosening and tugged the cartridge again (seems like one of those things that’s difficult at first and later very easy). So o left it alone and checking yt and I’m sure the same cartridge for the SL- 6 and SL-7 and may look for videos on replacing the cartridge. Also, I’ve looked on eBay for the replacement needle, but since i don’t know the cartridge I have until I pull it off. I’m not sure if it’s the original cartridge when the TT was first bought or a replacement cartridge. And not sure if the needles made for this turntable by different companies are interchangeable or not? I guess I can just get a brand new cartridge and solve that issue, but how do you get the old cartridge or needle off?

Cartridge pulls off quite easily. New cartridges available in Japan from about 4000 yen so around $35-40, and go up from there.

@@felix_da_katze Hello Felix! QUESTION: do you know how to lock the tone arm in place on this model? There is supposed to be a small slider on the inside of the arm that locks it in place... Can you help me with this? I'm not finding it. Thank you so much 😃

I've not seen or heard of any locking mechanism for this as such. Maybe a different model? The way I ship them is I remove the cartridge and pack it separately, and I remove the platter and pack it underneath the unit in bubble wrap. I use painters tape to keep the tone arm from bobbing around and pack plenty of bubble wrap under the lid. Wrap the whole thing up and make sure it is all secure. Then put in a box much bigger than it needs to be. This usually costs me a bit more on shipping but has so far saved on returns ;)

Could it be something as simple as a break in the wire for your grounding cable? If you haven't replace the electrolytic capacitors, then that is a possibility. While you are in the underside, check the solder joints look ok going to the grounding pin.

@@felix_da_katze if i play around with the cable it makes some funky distorted noises so it detects that a ground cable is plugged in, but it just doesn't ground the turntable at all. i tried a different turntable in the exact same setup and it worked just fine

I'd be opening it up, checking the solder joints, and replacing the electrolytic capacitors.

Good to hear!

Very hard to tell. Does it start at the beginning? Has it been serviced at all?

@@felix_da_katze I just bought it actually, and yes it start at the beginning and stop in the middle, the audio is fine but the problem is with tone arm

If it hasn't been serviced, it is hard to narrow down. I'd start by checking the mechanism, make sure dried grease isn't preventing the sled moving properly, etc. If you watch the whole series you'll get lots of points to look at that might give you some hints on what to look out for.

You can't get the shrink tubing on without desoldering something, so might as well do a proper fix.

You don't set the pressure as such, you set the height. I haven't needed to do it, but enough people have asked about it I will probably do a video about it.

Maybe? Best bet is to open it up and look at the motor. If it looks similarly constructed, then you may be able to get it open. Some of the earlier compact cassette deck motors had some far more complicated circuits in the motors, which gave way to simpler IC's with just a few components. 8 tracks would be getting on to 50+ years old, so probably any oils and greases would be dried out by now, at the least.

Nice score! Enjoy!

Servo gain seems to control the advancement of the sled so that you have smooth, continuous playing. All of the SL-5s I have had worked without adjustment, but I set it to the spec as part of the service. I am pretty sure the height setting would ensure the correct pressure, as there is not much in the way of fine tuning adjustment via a weight as in a traditional tone arm. Glad you like the way I broke it up. It made sense to me to do it this way, and hopefully makes it easy to get on and do the task you need.

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And even stupider question please? Does that 27.7mm actually effect the weight of the stylus on the record? Or is that just the needle drop?

27,7mm is the distance between stylus tip and guide rail. There is a diagram in the service manual describing. I've never bothered primarily because the turntables I've done have all worked fine. I suppose I should at least measure it for completeness. I'm out of the country at the moment, so not possible to make a measurement vid at the moment. Thanks very much for your kind words. I do hope this is a useful resource. I spent far longer on making this series than I expected. When I get back in the country, I hope to tackle a few other models in depth.

It might. So far I haven't had any issues that have led me to adjust it, so I suspect if it was easy to skate across the platter, it might need adjustment, not sure what the symptoms might be if it was a bit low. When I return home, I will investigate this a bit more thoroughly.

That could certainly be the case. Don't look at whether there is any physical leaks, they will be electrically "leaking" internally. Ensure you can move the platter by hand too. If it is stuck it might cause excessive current draw, but I'd expect that only after you hit play.

You need to take the back off, and the cable will be running from the switches into the the top of the camera body, underneath the main dial. It will make more sense when you get the case off. From memory, there are a couple of screws each side, and a few on the bottom. They use some weird 3 pointed screws so you will need a special screwdriver for it. If you can get machine screws easily, I'd replace them with Philips head screws of the same size.

No problem. I hope you can get it sorted. These are terrific cameras.

@@felix_da_katze ...any chance of you doing a video of pulling that camera apart...I have an XQ1 that has a stuck zoom...fuji service repairs want 500 bucks to fix it..if I know how it comes apart I want to have a go at fixing it my self....