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The 27mm long Creality style heatbreaks with 20mm long in-heatsink sections were waayyy too long to fit properly for my liking. So I went with a 20mm long Kraken length full titanium part with a 13mm long in-heatsink section....very short but at least I could adjust to get the total assembled length back to within 0.1mm of the OEM parts ....MUCH more acceptable ....my cooling air flow is aimed at the part not the heatblock because everything is tucked back up inside as Elegoo specd out. There are some 18mm parts out there but not enough guides OR amazon listings give proper measurements. ...it's frustrating ....those are the keys to replacments....numbers ....not names and amazon links with short lifespans of availability. I'd also add that EVERYONE watching this needs to get an M6 thread tap ....because a LOT of the heatblocks are full of burrs and the coating on the all-copper blocks messes with tolerances preventing nozzles or heatbreaks from properly threading....until the block threads are "chased" with the M6 tap. Forgot to add that you need a can of air to blow from the heatsink side back out the squirrel cage fan ....you wont beleive the dust bunnies living in there even in a closed closet like I keep my printers with a 24/7/365 dehumidifier running.....YIKES....probably should call that #onlyyoucanpreventprinterfires 😂

Thinking about buying the Sonic pad through your affiliate link. Any idea if the Sonic Pad mount for Ender 5 S1 will fit on a Ender 5 Pro ? Great video!

The most important thing is the 3d scanner

This is awesome. What settings did you use? Thank you so much for sharing!

hi ! How would you compare this to the commarker b4 20w? I watched the video but i cant seem to spot differences in the quality, which machine do you prefer? do you have any pointers?

This was a big help to me. However, when I go to remove the tiny screws from the new heat block to replace them, the screws strip right away and I cannot get them out. Any idea on how to fix that? Thanks!

Well, I felt like this was a helpful video, then somehow I felt targeted that you're making miata parts with it!

Hey don’t mind me asking this but i cannot afford a mirror or a scanner so can i get your car side mirror stl please…🙏🏻

Were you able to get any marking at all on Copper with the larger lens? I have some use cases where I'd want to do this for large PCB prototypes.

Can you engrave 3D depth on stones?

How do you get the picture of the print on the display?, mine doesn't any pictures at all, just elegoo logo displayed.

Now I know what a mini chipping hammer looks like. thanks.❤😊

I'm super interested in this conversion as well. I might get the opportunity to do the same thing. In the next year or two. Very keen to see how you go.

I can not removed the fans, they are just stuck from the connection area. Is there a tab I’m not holding down I’m using the tweezers and everything like in the video

nice vid it helped

Prusa = always overpriced shit. Quality of Ender for price of Bambu or other better brands. DO NOT RECOMMEND THAT!

how deep i can engrave in metal ? or stone ? or wax stamp?

Why is the steering wheel at the left side?

Are you still liking your engraver? It’s been a couple months just a little curious.

What slicer do u use im struggling to dial in my prints

What is holding it in place?

you lost you audio...

What was the price from ebay?

So with this setup do you not need the ptfe tube?

Or just dremel the alignment holes 😅

what I really want to know is how the heck are you getting such good prints direct out of the box... ive set up three of these now for friends and they all have one problem or another...

I did not know they put a small bag of gummy bears for the mini. LOL. You get a regular size bag for the bigger models.

Wpuld you recommend this for scanning engine bays or bumpers?

After doing this my hotend no longer reaches temp. It won't go above 165. What can I do to fix this?

thank you

Need to use AESUB Blue ？

Hello! I’m using a ComMarker B4 20W engraver with Lightburn, and recently I encountered a connection error while engraving in 3D on brass. The issue occurred while engraving a 3D relief pattern with the following settings: speed 6000, frequency 45kHz, power 90%, line spacing 0.0254, image mode set to 3D Sliced, and 150 passes. After about 6 hours of engraving, a connection error occurred. I paused for a while and resumed engraving, but the previously engraved pattern disappeared. Then, after about 1 hour, the connection error happened again. Is there any solution to this problem? And is there a way to resume the engraving from where it stopped? I would greatly appreciate your help in finding a solution. If you need further assistance with refining the details or want to send this in a specific context, feel free to ask!

Got one for 400

The scanner cost more than my 3d printer with AMS and 10 1kg reels of filament 😮 But yeah the 3d scanning spray is expensive @ $30 😂

Nice! What size and type of stand/cart do you have your xTool on? Thanks!

What filament is that?

Thank you. This video was very helpful. I have a tent but it just takes up too much room. Just picked up this kit from Microcenter for $7.99. Marked down from $69.99. Sold!

very metal schat

90% these i do 5w diode laser. could jut cut clear and white acrylic. i cant LOL

I recently bought a a1 mini. It's a fast printer

by swapping the heat block you've unlocked the world of MK8 nozzles rather than the weird Neptune 4 length

Thanks for the fantastic tutorial! I followed it to a tee, minus replacing the thermistor since once I did, my printer no longer detected one being present. After swapping to an all metal hot end though, filament no longer properly feeds through the printer. The gears grab it and pull it maybe a few centimeters before the filament stops being pulled through, despite the gears still spinning. Anyone have any idea for a fix?

Hi, so I have a question because I kinda need help and haven’t found much online. I have this printer and love it. It is my first printer. I love it because I like to tinker and problem solve, but at times it is not the easiest to get setup especially when I was first starting out. The issue I encountered occurred after changing the nozzle. I am getting a minimum temperature error and the temperature control and the temperature sensor cable broke in the middle of the cable. I soldered a replacement cable and there is continuity when I tested it. The board pin out has continuity too. Do I need to replace the entire hot end board or just the cable?

$500 for a mini printer??? I bought 7 year old wanhao I3 duplicator for spare change and it works perfect

FYI the link to the 4 pack is incorrect... you need the CR10 type but the link goes to CR6. The CR6 are too long and in turn cause the extruder not to detect the print bed before it is too late. Nozzle, meet the print bed... Ask me how I know.... hoping nothing is broken.

Creality lizard?) I have it too. I like it really much!

Just bought one

Heya, question when reassembleing do you put a ptfe tube in the heatbrake like when before modding? It wasnt shown in the video at 1:46

How come there is no belt adjustment on the gantry?

I didn't realize that the thermister was PTFE lined... I switched to a metal screw in one for easier maintenance if they go bad but now I'm extra happy I did that!