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I'm doing injectors, plugs, coils wires and valve cover gasket on my 2005 and the wiring harness on the back of the passenger side is a beast!!!

did you have to change the rubber grommets on the valve cover bolts, ??..or were there any on there to start.??..I've heard in other videos Hemi 5.7 valve cover replacement there was rubber grommets.

I wanted to see how you removed the one behind the motor

My question is.. is there another gasket underneath all of that like below the spark plug area

Thank you for posting this video as I used it as a resource to change my own negative cable. 2015 Escalade ESV here. Remove the passenger tire. Remove the wheel well guards or enough screws to peel the guard back to be in front of the rotors. You will probably need to remove the brake sensor from the frame by lifting the pegs out of the hole. You may want to remove the other insulated wrapped wire next to the brake lines. Now you should be able to access the bolt. You may want to squirt it with PB blaster or some other lubricant. You may also want to have a pivot head for your socket. I used a 24 inch 3/8 extension to reach it.

Did that fix all the messages/ warnings?

My 2015 chevy silverado too. I got a new battery and it works well for the moment. And once it wouldnt start for a bit.

🎉🎉🎉

Had all those issues on my 2016 Yukon on a daily basis for 2 -3 months ….removed and cleaned all battery and main fuse connectors at battery and no more issues going on 3 weeks

Warning: These exact symptoms can just as easily caused by the positive cables and connectors, so be sure to locate the failed cable/connection before throwing parts at it. My truck had the same symptoms: jerking steering, Stabilatrack message, dash would go black, radio loses the station, clock loses time, and the truck would sometimes go completely dead in the driveway overnight. When I touched the negative battery cable, there was a small pop sound at the top of the battery and the truck sprang to life. I repeated this several times. It's got to be the cable, right? Nope, it did the same thing after I replaced the negative cable. It ended up being the blue connector that plugs into the distribution block on top of the battery. I believe that the fingers on the contacts had lost their "sproing" over time. To fix it, I pushed the terminals out of the blue connector, tweaked the contacts to give them more force. Then I cleaned and tightened all of the cables tied to the lugs in the ditribution block. My problems are 100% gone. I should have diagnose the problems to the root cause before unleashing the parts cannon. $85 and 2 hours wasted on a battery cable.

Not really sure what he moved, or took out, but that bolt next to the starter is not that fucking easy to see. You need to make people aware of this. It's a bitch to get to and take off unless you have other things disconnected. This comment is for everybody who thinks it's going to be as easy as what he just showed you.

Nothing like finding a video that was made for me. Thanks

How the heck do you get to the bolt by the starter?!?! I can’t get to it from under the starter and I removed the fender and it’s super far to get to, even with an extension

Did you have to replace the positive terminal

How did you get the bolt off for the wire above the starter?? I can not get mine to break loose

Do you really want to drive this in the rain or even leave it out in the rain? Cars back then were notorious for water leaking onto the floorboards & trunk floor, rusting them out. People never checked under the carpet or trunk mat - until it was too late! Not to mention car exterior bodies rusted out fast.

I'm changing the negative cable today on my 2014 Silverado but can't break free the 13 mm bolt, any suggestions? 😅

How long did it take you to do both sides

What are the wheels called that you used?

Dang!!! Thanks for posting this!

Saving my ass and my truck here man. I really appreciate this video. I wish you’d still make more!

You put dealer cable or Orreily

We just bought a 2018 GMC Yukon XL and occasionally it won’t start. No instrument lights or interior or exterior lights will come on and the key fob won’t do anything. I disconnect the negative cable to the battery and wait about a minute to reconnect it, then everything works again. We are not sure why we are having this issue. Anyone have any ideas?

Good te see! I bought a replacement for it.

I just replaced this cable and for some reason my battery is draining. Everything worked well for a couple days then the battery is dead. Got the battery checked and nothing is wrong with it.

Thank you for posting this video. My truck got hit from behind and the dealership said my ground went bad. They wanted $800 to change the cable.

Where did you buy the LED headlights and what models are they? they look great

Byron

What year is the hood looks nice

Hi. Thanks for the video. I am having issues with power steering. It gets locked for 1-2 seconds with warning service power steering. Really looks like a loose connection. I have Yukon xl Denali 2016. I’ll try this today. Hope it solves the problem. Went for regular oil and filters change at ACDELCO today and described the problem to them. They said they don’t work on any electronic issues as they don’t have any good electrician. They asked me to go any other local workshop. The dealer also doesn’t accept my car because it is USA specs and not GGC specs (middle east).

Why not go through the fender well by removing the liner🤷‍♂️

The music make me wanna start dancing 🕺 😂

I had exactly same problem with tahoe 2015, i tryed tightening the nuts and compress the ends of the cables before two years, and that solved the problem partially, untill today it shows back, so i guess i have to change the ground cables, my question is, does that solves the problem? Did it show up again, since ur video was from last year.

🤣😅🤣😅🔥🔥🔥✔️

Good afternoon great detailed explanation. Just out of curiosity how is the truck doing since the repair. Looks like it’s been about a year. My truck is giving me the same Issue and im about to attempt this repair hopefully it’s the root cause.

Does the positive or negative cable still get hot

Hey, exactly same issue you described with my 2016 4x4 Silverado and the dealer quoted my $900 to replace the cables. Is it a similar set up as in your video to replace? I feel like my acts up after going through the car wash, but definitely locks up when making a turn. Recently lost power on the highway which was scary.

I have 68 gmc swb with leaf springs. Trying to get a 9 inch rear end for it but there all made for rear coils off the shelf. 🤦🏻 Gonna have to modify I guess

Hello, I too am part of this community, 2018 Silverado @ 117k miles, after market leveling kit and 33x12.5r20 tires. Had this same issue & can confirm from a Chevy Auto Tech, that this was this issue for me. Negative cable to the battery and battery fuse box, that goes on top of the battery.

I HAVE A 2018 GMC TERRAIN. I RECENTLY REPLACED THE STARTER AND I HAVE POWER, BUT IT'S HAS NOT WANT TO CRANK.

Thank you

I just cleaned up and tightened the small negative cable on frame behind front passenger wheel well and fixed the weird issues on my 2015. That ring with plug measures amp draw for computer processing. Very rarely is the actual cable bad.

Having the same issue on my Challenger and noticed oil in the plug holes on the cylinder with the miss. Have tried new plugs, swapping coil packs, swapping injectors, testing for spark. Maybe its just a gasket. Lets hope. If not that then mine is probably a lifter too

Wassup man did you ever have anymore issues after this? I’m currently dealing with the same thing in my 2016 all Terrain.

So was it cleaning all grounds and replacing the negative cable that fixed it for you? I’m having similar issues and got it back working temporarily by jiggling the negative but need an actual fix

It's so easy to dislodge the new gasket from the groove when trying to sneak it back into place.

You sound like you know what you are talking about. I should bring my 2016 Colorado 2.5 IL to you and help me with it I have the same issues with not cranking, at first it hesitate to crank and then try the 2nd time it crank, later on the day it would not crank. I had original brought to the dealer and they Service man swears they did a the voltage meter check, and nothing wrong with the cable, took it home and later it didn't want to crank, now they say its the negative cable due to corrosion stuck inside from the negative cable to the battery. then said it might be the positive cable, at this point we are guessing and its cost me lots of money. I m disable but I will not give up until I find the issue.

Sorry everyone I have been away for awhile. Looks like we have a lot of great feedback and information in the comments so make sure to take a look at that if you are experiencing these weird electrical issues! As for the repair on my moms Yukon, we still have not experienced any of the crazy problems that we had before.

Thanks for posting the video, I recently took my 2014 Silverado to the dealer because similar problems, they quoted me $800 to replace the battery cables, so I told them that was kind of high for replacing battery cables so I would do it myself. Soooo, if that is the going rate, you saved your mom $710 and she should be so happy to have a son like you taking care of her! BTW, all my cables are pristine, so I suspect my problem is the bad grounding point inside under the speaker in the dash. I am going to hook up my volt meter and see if I can sneak up on the exact cause (nothing like a smoking gun to give you peace of mind) by checking for voltage changes across things (when I move the steering wheel) on connections (i.e. grounds) where there should not be any voltage. I'll connect the ground on the meter to the ground of the battery through a long wire, then probe around to see if the voltage at those ground points rises when I move the steering wheel. Anything more than .3 to .5 volts DC is bad, since all grounds should be very close to zero volts all over the vehicle.