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I’m 2 weeks in and have had very minimal issues with anything. I had two bad prints with warping issues. And what caused it was actually excessive air flow from my air conditioning 🤯 Blew my mind and I never really hear this one. Found out on Reddit thankfully 😩 Awesome video and tons of useful information

So 5 months in how are you liking it? The stabilizer thing I'm not sold on - what do you think?

Title: BambuLab PROS and CONS Exposed! Video: I wish they gave more than 20g of filament

What printer do you use in the video?

Im actually working on a build of the same print right now, watching along with you has been very helpful

lol .

Awesome review, thanks for the honesty, I am about to purchase this unit and your review really helped. I do know you can get an assortment of feeders that move it to the side as oppose to the back.

I have never printed a benchy… just a waste of filament for me.

My 13 year old wants a 3d printer. I know Jack squat about it. I want something quality, enclosed, able to print carbon fiber, open source, and beginner friendly. What do you recommend? I was looking at the Creality K1 Max, but I'm open to suggestions because I really don't know what is good and what isn't. I also want to be able to print parts for my firearms once I eventually learn how to do so. Thanks.

My prints get a few layers in and the nozzle will knock the print off the bed, any ideas?

Hopefully you are still watching comments, do the screws just poke the needed holes into the FEP film as you go?

Thanks for this, not done plane cut for some time, so it was just the quick refresher I needed. :)

I use this every time I can 😅 it’s super useful and makes a lot of difference 😮

Great review mate! I'm really looking at that this printer or maybe the bigger A1 so any more info you can give on theses would be great!

How’d you end up mounting it?

did you print all this in a 100% scale of the stl model o you had to rescale it?

Have you had any problems with it? And if so how did you fix’s them? Mine brakes like every single time I try to print something

very cool but dead link

hello do you still have the files looks like the print was deleted from thingyverse

hey just watched you video and was wondering if you have any advise on an air purifier that is good for a filament 3d printer using Pla. thanks :-)

How about a fix for your feeder on the Ender 3 V2 chewing up your filament and breaking it.

Hello, I have also bought the CR-M4, but I haven’t been able to achieve the print quality I want. The printer has a 0.8 nozzle installed. I’ve tried Creality Slicer, Creality Cloud, etc., but couldn’t get a proper result. Could you share the slicer and profile you use?

love you bro

So I do microsoldering and I wanna print clear cases for game systems and real nice ones can this print the big ps5 white panels? They are 40*25cm / 15.75 * 9.84 inch I need a way to make shells for systems of you can recommend something please let me know

Might just as well McGyver an electric toothbrush.

I know these videos are old, but I'm just getting into printing Star Trek ships. They've been VERY helpful, but I'd love to see some of these painted up. I don't do twitter, or instagram, or any of the others. Only FB and YT.

Thank you.

I am getting an *ERR on my nozzle part of my screen on my ender 3 pro any help?

I use my hand... I can feel when Ive sanded enough.

Thanks!

How much filament did this use? Looking to do this my self but idk how much to buy

This is way more expensive now wondering, since the price difference narrowed, is it still a good tool or is the MicroMark verson better?

For me some of the best tools to remove layers: - Card scraper (using hard metal sheet edge) is fastest but mostly limited to larger convex shapes. - Sanding using 60 grit (sand paper or pads) is my main tool usually using a Dremel on low RPM or a drill, sometimes with some water for cooling. May not work for models with fine details. - Hot air at 190‒200°C for PLA / 280°C for TPU works also really well to even reach a shine but it's harder to master (too long and you reveal the infill or disform the part, too few and you do nothing at all).

This made it so easy for me to do a quick remix, thank you!

This video is three years old, but... I just want to say, THANK YOU!

Hello, I've had a K1 for a year. This caused problems from the start. At first the extruder was defective, and a short time later the hotend had to be replaced. And last but not least, the bed sensors were broken. In February 2024 I bought another K1 max What I have experienced with these so far defies normality. After 3 months the camera said goodbye, it started up briefly and reported errors after about 3-4 minutes. I found out that the LIDAR needs to be replaced. After replacing the LIDAR it still didn't work, so the circuit board on the hotend also had to be replaced. Last but not least, the mainboard is now defective and also needs to be replaced. However, Creality refuses to exchange this under warranty because, contrary to EU law, Creality only gives a 12-month guarantee on the scrap. I have an invoice dated February 27, 2024, Creality claims I bought the K1 max in July 2023 and sends me a screen print with an order from July 2023. So the guarantee starts with the order. If the printer is not in stock and is delivered 3 months later, you will lose 3 months of the warranty. Creality support is underground, it takes days to get a response. You keep wanting to see the invoice and keep confusing the different printer models. Guys, there are now so many printer manufacturers that build good, reliable printers that no one needs companies like Creality. I advise everyone to stay away from this brand. I hope that one of the many RUclips bloggers has the courage to report about it.

I am doing a medieval helmet. I considered what you did but I have a cadet 100,100,120mm and with that many pieces I am worried about the strength at all the edge to edge seams. I came up with a possible solution. Take the original Make copy 1. Make copy 2. scale copy 2 to make it smaller by just under 1 wall thickness. Create a union between copy 1 and 2. The result is an extra thick version of the original. Now do a Boolean difference between the original and the thick version. Now you have a version that fits exactly within the original Now cut up both inner and outer helmet making sure that the seams are always offset and never line up. Now when you print all the parts you end up between with a huge glue area between the inner and outer surface, That's my theory anyway. Sound reasonable. I can't check it in practice yet because my downloaded original seems to be full of errors that analysis won't fix so the Boolean union is not working. Yet

I recently bought the cr-m4 and I'm having trouble with some settings. What Slicer are you using and by any chance do you have any profile settings you could send me? Thank you

That would be cool if it dose have a multi filament add-on like the Bambu

Great video, very informative as I'm just getting started with resin printing! How often do you swap your carbon filters?

How many inches is that model? Not sure if its 1/534 Scale.

When it comes to affordable 3D printers, what would you suggest?

Cool channel just found it lol

Good to see you again my friend. cant wait to see all the new things

It's good to see you again >i really like your channel especially your Trek and Star Wars prints. Best wishes

could you do the new gun stock 3d printed with grips for the oculus quest 3 i would really love to use it

Thanks man

Use actual enclosure for fumes with ventilation pipes, you do not have to put the end of ventilation pipes to outside you can attach a massive filter on it, it will filter everything the downside is that this filter piece is expensive and heavy.

Please about building design use abs or petg