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@@ExcelTimeSavers Open ground means that the ground on the receptacle isn't wired to anything (or whatever it's connected to is floating with respect to the electrical system). That's different from ground and neutral being reversed - they were both connected to something at ground potential, just the wrong something.

@@aaroncottrill7426 I’ve heard that thinking too. A ferrite core can also help filter out high frequencies, assuming high frequencies are the actual problem you’re facing. It would be interesting to test that some time to see what exactly happens to the waveform. Broadly speaking, I don’t imagine a DIY solution is likely to work better than a commercially available line conditioner of similar cost, though. I imagine you’d need some resistance to go with that capacitor if you’re trying to filter out the still-relatively-low frequency squiggliness seen in this video, which gets into questions of heat dissipation and allowable voltage loss. And what exactly are we trying to accomplish? It’s probably application specific. Trying to unconfuse some transistors that have started acting wonky due to RF interference is probably a different problem from trying to avoid excess heat in a water pump. So I’m not entirely sure what such an experiment should look like.

@@theDaNi0 No, but I do wonder if it was a one-off mistake or if they shipped a whole batch like this.

The tent is an older Greatland 3-room camping tent, got it locally secondhand for free. If I were buying new, I would have liked something like the Copper Canyon LX square one www.rei.com/product/187691/eureka-copper-canyon-lx-4-person-tent

@@johnmal5975 I haven’t really done a proper test beyond the 2.7A seen post-repair in the video. A few landscape lights doesn’t really drain the battery enough to really tax the panel. Hopefully I’ll get to put it through its paces more at some point. It’s rated 195W, which would be 9.65A at the 20.2V maximum power point. It’s just a cheap Eco-Worthy panel, though, and in my limited experience they fall a little short of the rating even when they’re not broken.

@@therevoman Yes but supposedly solar panels mostly convert visible light? It was what I had on hand so I tried it 🤷

Some are not hard to open while others are pretty much factory sealed and you will find it a real PITA because the plastic piece is completely filled with hard epoxy glue.. Mine are somewhere between the 2 extremes and I hope I never have to replace the FET's that mine have.. Good luck, you might find a few videos on your brand of panels that will get you educated to the how to..

It’s a folding panel, 160 watt, EF. So it’s a small junction box. Been looking on Amazon but did not find one identical yet

@@jacobjay2892 Glad you enjoyed the video - let us know if you learn anything interesting in your testing!

@@FauxQue-yk8dt That’s good to know that you’ve been able to use a shattered panel for years and it still makes current. I wouldn’t have guessed it would go that well without protection from moisture intrusion! They say damaged panels are more likely to start a fire, so I don’t know if having one on your roof is the best idea but I would imagine it depends in part on how much voltage and current you’re running through them.

@@picocosm It's been good so far but like I said I have plans and a panel to replace it. I was mad about buying 10 new panels and 1 being shattered. Tried to get compensation from Fed Ex but they only work with the person who paid the shipping. Um that was me, they didn't offer free shipping. So I contacted the seller. Well that's why we advise you to buy a couple of extra panels in case they get broken. More BS I'm not buying panels to get broken. Anyhow they refunded me $150. so I was happy. They also said broken panels still produce. So I put the multimeter on it and they were right. I figured water intrusion would quickly corrode the traces but it's still producing. Replacing it now that I have a stack of extra panels will give me peace of mind. Solar is a risk of fire in all aspects. The MC4 connectors can arc. The screw connections in the inverter and combiner box need periodic tightening. And while rare the LiFePo4 batteries could burn. I had issues with lose wires arcing in the combiner box even though they were torqued to spec. Had to buy a torque screwdriver just to be able to torque to spec. After melting down a breaker due to arcing from a lose connection I bought a ferrule crimper and redid all of my connections. So far the ferrules have held torque. So much so I'm getting lazy again about checking the connections. Occasionally I hit everything with the Fluke laser temperature gun instead of retorquing. Now that it's on my mind I will probably check all of the connections tomorrow. It beats burning my house down

I keep it in my car too!

My gf bought this can opener and im about to go insane

Nothing fancy -- I mostly confirmed timing and whether I was missing any samples by using another Arduino to put out a square wave at a known frequency. During the initial breadboarding I also made use of a ~20VAC test signal from a power adapter I saved from something broken. And a multimeter, of course, that reports frequency and RMS voltage.

I actually did test a number of the components out of circuit but didn't show the entire process in the video.

Good call - fixing this thing is harder than it looks! Hope the pros can do a better job than I did!

Nice! My hat's off to anyone who can actually turn a profit fixing these things. I lost count of how many hours I put into this, but even at minimum wage I think I would've exceeded the cost of a whole new TV. I don't have an ESR meter but maybe that should be next on my list.

@picocosm testing equipment is so expensive nowadays, when I was in the service bizz, everything was expensive including replacement parts...I guess being a disposable industry it caused everything to drop in price. And yes you're correct, it would be difficult to make a living in electronics repair, but, it's a nice side niche to make a couple bucks while collecting S.S...😃

Nice! Things are certainly easier when all the problems can be identified from inspection! Wish I'd been so lucky.

Yes, waving the heat wand around really didn't work very well. You see me looking at things with tweezers during that process trying to test if the solder was actually melting. Most of the time it wasn't, but after causing a blister to form on the board I have up. It was a final stab in the dark that I didn't have high hopes for going into it. If I knew of a specific joint that was bad then I certainly would've tried to address it more properly.

Thanks for unsubscribing - I'm sure you'll find other RUclips channels that better strip things down to the duration of the average bowel movement.

No light is coming on and I did try the power button on the TV. I also checked the main fuse and the rectifier but didn't show those parts in the video - both seem to be fine. I wasn't really sure what to do with the MOSFETs other than confirm reasonably high resistance been the pins. I'm not entirely convinced the MOSFETs are actually involved in charging that capacitor that seems to be at the center of my problems. Think I should desolder the MOSFETs and have a proper look at them? I've read that a basic test with the meter in diode mode would be: short G to S (transistor off) and put red probe to D and black to S (should show no conductivity), then instead touch red probe to G to turn transistor on and then put red probe back on D (the idea being the gate will have enough capacitance to stay on). I was hoping to avoid desoldering the heat sinks but maybe I'll give it a try.

I'm thinking the MOSFET(s) & Full wave are ok if the main fuse is good. Sounds like you don't have any standby voltage (no led on front of tv). Check for designation on the power board for something like Standby or SB or some abbreviation for 'Standby'. This should be next to the connector that goes from the power board to the main board. Should be maybe 5volts (sometimes 3 volts). If you don't have this voltage there an issue with the power board (trace back to where this 5volt comes from ) or if you do have this voltage probably an issue with the main board.

I think I can see it pin 2 & 3 on CN101 (14pin) '5VSB'

Yes, the 5V standby voltage isn't happening. I think that IC that I replaced is responsible for generating it, which is why I was trying to figure out why the capacitor that turns that chip on isn't charging.

Welcome to the party! I did check the main fuse and rectifier although I didn't show it in the video. Not entirely convinced the MOSFETs are involved in the charging of that capacitor that seems to be at the center of my problems but maybe I'll desolder the heat sinks and give it a try. Thanks for the suggestion!

@@picocosmThank you! I’d give it a try, also check the smaller components around the chip you replaced as if a ceramic cap or transistor has failed that will cause the problem 😊

I did not try adding leaded solder - that would've been a good idea! Very much agreed on component-level fixes!

I agree, I'll fix something that we could replace for 20 bucks, but it's the technician in me that has to repair rather than replace.

@@frankpitochelli6786 💯

I was originally thinking of doing exactly that, actually. A simple trigger (be it a momentary button or a proximity sensor) could be used to active an extend-and-then-retract sequence. But you're right that it would take more electronics. You could maybe use a 555 timer to hold the forward pulse for the appropriate amount of time. It moves slowly enough, though, that I was thinking the user might not want to wait for it to travel the full stroke. But that might have been worth trying if I'd stuck with the original H-bridge approach.

Indeed, there’s a real risk of food splatter! : )

Welcome to the party! You're right - I shouldn't have labeled that as a 3A load. We would only expect it to get that high when the motor is stalled. I was just grabbing for the nearest thing I could find that was a smaller load than the space heaters.

:) This is my favorite activity too, identifing sets and finding rare items in a bulk. Im sure you found already but the green hoses and double barrel thing is from a plane from Monster Fighters ghost train set.

Would like to see the other two bulks also.

I used the 50A version and that's what the scale factors set in the software are for, but you could use something different and just change the values in software for the calculation of Amps1 and Amps2, where I used 1.3*0.04028 because that seemed to be about right in my case.