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All of the trails on both sides.

The one that gets me is the mom or dad, likely in their 30s, sitting on the bench with their phone while their kids go ride/skate/scoot the park. It's like, hey, get out there with them! You wonder why people's fitness goes into the toilet as soon as they have kids...🤣 Parents will go toss a baseball or football around with their kids, why not ride the skatepark also?

🤣 Yeah, that won't accomplish what I want from a smaller lever. The bend will not be where it needs to be. Not that simple.

Yes, the skills absolutely transfer over. I started with BMX and got into mountain biking later. I actually had more skill than other mountain bikers at the time because I had a BMX background. A bigger bike takes a bit more weight shift and effort, but it's all the same concepts.

@@ShadLife Good to know, thanks. I'll keep at it with the MTB, just need to exaggerate all the movement and give some more effort I suppose ;)

The technology wasn't there. BMX is extremely demanding and all the times it's been tried before it's failed. It took Fingers Crossed (the origin of this design) many iterations and prototypes to come up with this solution.

Yes, a bunnyhop is the same. I have many how-to videos. You can filter them in the playlist section. ruclips.net/video/v9mACtJ4M6M/видео.htmlsi=gLxWFasaugq3Y59u

About 4:30. It was almost 90 degrees out. That's likely why it was empty...🤣

​@ShadLife I found if you want the park to yourself you gotta go like 7am.

Who is they?

Minneapolis / St. Paul metro

Have you taken any lessons yet? I am sure you could do this trail but you want to go practice some skills first. Like learn how to ride the pump track, pop up the front wheel, short manuals too. Cornering properly. I have a bunch of how to skills videos if you go to the playlist tab and select that section it will filter out all the other videos and just show the skills ones.

@@ShadLife I have not, but I ride with some guys that have helped me some. I think it would be good for me to do some lessons. I will check out some of your how to videos. I have watched a couple. But it's different watching and doing. I wiped out pretty bad at elm last week on a 3 foot drop. My foot came off my pedal as I went off the drop. Shook me up a bit, but I avoided any broken bones. I think wearing some padding may be a good idea when I want to try new jumps and drops until I get comfortable

Ah crap! They are 50mm and not 60mm. Not sure why I thought they were 60mm. Now I have to correct that mistake. Thanks for calling that out!

No worries Based on this and your next video, I'm understand you find these 50mm rise bars too high? Do you think they feel higher than the combo you used with the Rulezman stem?

It's very hard to tell. With the Rulezman stem I was both taller and closer so it felt quite different. If my bike had a slightly longer reach it might have felt more normal. It was great for jumping, manuals, and such, but the switchback climbing turns I did showed that I needed a longer reach, more room. With the 50mm bars I am about the same height but 20mm farther forward (35mm stem). So it feels very different than with the 15mm stem. I have a new longer hardtail frame coming in soon and I will see if I like the Rulezman stem on that frame. It should be the best of both worlds.... proper cockpit length but with the steering at the center axis of the steerer.

@@ShadLife Nice! Yea Rulezeman himself runs some pretty wild set-ups. I've seen a bike check with the 10mm Mondraker stem and the SQLabs 16deg backsweep bar. The steering hands offset ends up behind the steerer's axis. I guess that works well on long reach frame with long chainstays, as per Rulezman's philosophy. I'm a hardtail guy myself. Recently put together a dream build Radical Grim Ripper. It is slightly longer than my previous bike so still getting used to it on jumps and descends. But seat tube angle is quite steep, so no problem with fit at seated position/

It is, but this size is more advanced. So you would want either a smaller ramp and airbag or just start with smaller jumps and get comfortable with that before doing something this size.

Not at all. There is plenty of downhill to get speed. The grass is definitely a better option.

1030g for this 27.5 x 2.6 Mazza tire. I don't recall what the Butcher was. It was a Butcher Grid Trail T9 of I recall correctly. But it was also a 2.6 29 inch tire because it was on my mullet setup.

The Vibrocore bars are amazing.

Interesting. What size Chameleon are you riding? And what fork travel? And how long is your Funn stem? I have a Radical Grim Ripper running a 120mm fork and stack feels quite low. I'm still experimenting with my cockpit set up but so far the only combos that I have found to work well are Deity CZ bars (40mm rise) with FUNN Equalizer stem, 42mm reach, 10deg rise. And also NS Bikes Lick bar (61mm rise, 10deg backsweep), with he NS Quantum Light stem. This is Dirt Jump territory ... but feels pretty good! Keen on exploring the Rulezman stem at some point!

@@vilimiryordanov8502 I have a medium chameleon v7. I went up to a 140mm travel in the fork with 50nm FUNN stem(I got it from Amazon) I maxed out on stem spacers but it feels really good.

🤣 I will fix the title.

Xcel Energy Mountain Bike Park in Shakopee.

The only way you could be adding reach is if you rotated the bars forward. Otherwise reach is the same. You might have added more height, but that doesn't increase reach. If we are referring to how much actual reach you do with your arms (not the bikes reach) taller bars should bring them closer to you. I personally rotate my bars back and align them closely with the angle of the fork. So for me, taller bars get closer. If you want them closer, rotate them back a little and see how that feels.

@@ShadLife Thank you for responding so quickly. I hope you don't mind me clarifying my previous point. I mentioned that I experienced increased reach when the stem was lowered. This adjustment essentially has the same effect as rolling the handlebars forward as you suggested. Given that the head tube is set at a 65-degree angle, the principles of trigonometry dictate that lowering the stem positions the handlebars further from the bike's center. I hope this explanation helps to illustrate the geometric changes that occur with this adjustment. In adding the higher rise bars I can maintain the bars’ ergonomics by not rolling them about and can still achieve a change in my reach by adding or subtracting sterrer tube spacers. Setup for me is higher and closer for steep descents when shuttling and lower and further away for the XC climbing stuff. You are absolutely right in that minor changes can be beneficial for comfort and/or control.

I used to not use a freecoaster. But when I wanted to learn how to do rollbacks (which is what we used to call them) which standing I moved to a freecoaster. I have the newer style planetary one so it works like a normal cassette when going forward, no space before it catches, and then disengages one going backwards. This makes the bike ride much better than with the typical freecoaster where I feel engagement is inconsistent.

@ShadLife that sounds really awesome actually. I ride cassette normally. I tried a freecoaster a few years back and my brain couldn't "un learn" the ways of a cassette. That initial slack would always make me smack my knee on the stem. Then I'd forget to back pedal before a 180 and land backwards with it engaged. No bueneo. Kind of just wrote them off after my experience. It sounds like your hub is the best of both worlds. Is yours the BSD or that new profile one? Or a completely different one? Sorry if you covered already in a video. I keep hoping I run into someone at the skatepark that has one so I can give it a try. I'm hesitant after my FC experience taking that big of an investment in a hub I may hate. Watching your video made me feel like this hub is def something I could get behind though. That slack was a killer for me. I'm going to do a little more research on whatever hub you are riding if no slack!

I did some videos about this hub a few years ago. It's actually a Free Night hub which was the original design and BSD used their patent. Here are those videos. ruclips.net/video/aVSeUC2ZJes/видео.html ruclips.net/video/DH42I1DX-Bs/видео.html

So basically you can still catch and have to back pedal if your weight is too far forward on the pedals. The thing is, anything new is going to require getting used to it. I had a short learning curve but now that I have been riding it awhile I rarely engage the cassette when starting to roll backwards. The Z-Coaster works differently. You have to back pedal to disengage it. The planetary ones don't require that at all. They only engage if you have forward weight on the pedals when you start rolling backwards. What is cool is once you have started rolling back, you can't accidentally engage by pedalling forward. It's only during the initial transition from going forward to going backwards that you can engage the hub. Once rolling, it's free both directions. To add to this and why I like the planetary freecoaster is that when riding skateparks and dirt jumps it acts like a normal freewheel (cassette). So if my front wheel starts to drop on a manual or something similar, I can pedal forward and keep the wheel up. A regular freecoaster takes too long to engage to do that.

@ShadLife I 100% agree with the last statement. Always been my hold up on the regular coasters. I need that instant pedal pressure. I'll go check out the videos you linked and give it a look. Def sounds interesting for sure. I have questions but I need to watch your videos first to see if you answer them! Lol.

That's an adjustment. If all your gears shift correctly then it is likely the limit screw for the larger cog. This screw prevents the chain from jumping off the cog and into the spokes, but if it's too far in the chain will not go up onto the largest cog. If you don't understand how this works, I highly recommend going to a shop and having them work on it for you.

@@ShadLife yes, I've had adjusted using the screw limiter but upon inspection I see the low screw doesn't even reach the limit so it doesn't matter if I unscrew it more it wouldn't make a difference, that's why I'm confused. Why did you change the derailleur in your State, did all the gears worked correctly?

@@MegaXtc11 Maybe check to see if your derailleur or hanger is bent. Yes, the State branded derailleur worked well. I upgraded to have slightly more crisp shifting, but all the gears worked fine with the State derailleur.

@@MegaXtc11 Also, if this is a brand new bike, mine came with a bent derailleur and State sent me a new one.

@@ShadLife I'll go with the LBS where I got the bike and ask them to check for that

I know this, but it's not very easy to do this sort of filming. Ideally I would have someone that could film for me, but doing it myself is much more challenging and takes a lot more time.

All valid points!

I will check it out sometime.

I highly doubt it. It's chromoly steel and a pretty solid design.