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so the root cause to the burned MOSFET.

Thanks! Had simular problem on p-touch 65. Root cause was a leaking battery which damaged the printed wire board. Although not visable under a microscope, after measuring the connection seemed to be broken. Like you, I soldered an extra wire in parallel to the printed wiring board, which solved the problem.

I wasn't expecting the sticker 💀

Hi! I have the same problem and if I bridge the part next to the socket the radio works. What’s now the defect part? Is it 105 ohm SMD resistor like the two parts above? Or is it something different?

I have the same issue... just the same, yesterday I put a temporary fuse but as in you case it also didn`t turn off. And I hope the you manage to find issue. but.. :) Ok. if i find the root cause I will write here a comment.

hey man, if you need to bridge small gaps like the one with the fuse, just do an solderbridge its way easier

Im gonna try this on mine . Its already dead so i have nothing to loose but 2 hours

Thanks for video 😊 Very helpful info.

One of my HomePod-minis died recently. It's completely dead, doesn't respond even through USB. Is it diode most likely cause for a mini too?

A Sheaffer TRZ pen.

Nice. My "solution" to this has always been to put the battery in upside down when not in use, but this isn't infallible as you inevitably forget. I ended up taping an AA battery holder with built-in switch to the back of it, and soldered the wires of this to the battery terminals. Inelegant, but it works and the larger battery lasts a good long while (roughly 20-30 times as long even if left switched on, and the battery can be recharged). This is a much nicer idea - the manufacturer should introduce it themselves.

if i don't have that printer i will use a flat flex cable from a donor board, a dvd drive or a notebook, cut it to the size of original and voila 😁

Hi Graham...thanks a lot for this helpful video. My DMR 115 have se same problem. I've checked the smd fuse you show in your video and it's open. Did you know which kind of smd fuse it is? My fuse is blue and marked with a T on it, but how many amps ? Thanks for your help. 9:25

Bought one of these cheap digital chinese calipers on 2022 and after having changed 4 batteries during two years I convinced myself to try modding it and install a physical on/off switch. Had everything done: necessary traces cut on the pcb, on/off pad isolated, plastic trimming...just to find out that 5 minutes after reassembling everything the lcd screen made a "pop" sound and broke itself, most likely because of excessive pressure of the on/off switch against the LCD. I bought another one recently which in theory looked the same model, but found that pcb had changed (no longer LF silkscreen) and so did the lcd model and the case, making it even cheaper with less screws. I was able to do a mashup of both calipers to avoid having to cut plastic on the new case and after adapting the lcd ribbon, foam cushion and sanding a bit the on/off switch, this time it worked as it should. My advise is that if you need a reliable caliper, consider buying a quality one and consider the amount of time and frustration these cheap ones come with if you want to avoid battery drain.

Always good to see Fluke meters getting a second chance!

Thanks to the information here, I have now successfully repaired 2x DMR 115. The capacitor C13 with 1000µF was also defective on my devices. You could already recognise this because they were bloated.

Brilliant job

Thanks very much for your effort and persistents in repairing the DMR 115. Your video guided me to the fuse next to the power connector. In my case changing that fuse resulted in a working radio again. Even the power on switch works again. I dont know what the cause of the blown fuse was but for now i am pleased with a working radio again. Thanks again, regards, Philip from Holland

Man, you are a genius!!!!!! Loved this video!

i wonder if a magnetic read switch might work better. You hold an external magnet to the location of the reed while you want the calipers to work. I agree, every time i go go use my calipers, the battery is dead. horrible design.

Hola, me compré un HomePod grande de primera generación al cual se le puede hacer un reseteo, enciende y todo lo demás, pero cuando a la hora de conectarse con un dispositivo no lo hace y no sirve de ninguna manera, porque he intentado con dos iPad, con una Mac y con un iPhone y ninguno se pueden enlazar con los HomePod o sea que el problema seguramente sea del HomePod, se queda la luz superior parpadeando pero no aparece ningún dispositivo para enlazarse, necesito tu ayuda para saber más o menos qué es y si me podrías ayudar.

It would cost the Chinese $0.01 to add a proper switch and make a proper product. So they don't.

No chance!!!!

What about using one of those spot welders for building battery packs. I imagine one could tune it down low enough to spot weld each trace.

Wow, good work. Thanks for the tip about the 3403 SMD mosfet. I had not been able to find the type. Does anyone know the current rating of the fuse? Regards Alexander

Last time I tried to fix a pen it was disaster, so you definitely did a great job! I guess your repair skills are know far and wide so now even your boss is asking for help 😂 fantabulus video as always!

Woohooo, first!

Your back! I think I will have to poke around by deck now instead of just using my other one after seeing you have a go at yours! Fantastic video as always

First the damn thing wouldn't turn off all of a sudden. I took the battery out, put it in and it turned on all by itself. But I couldn't turn the damn thing off again. I repeated the procedure. Same result. Then I slid another 18V battery in. Fully loaded of course. Ever scince then - one hour ago - I haven't been able to get the damn thing to turn on. I bought it under two years ago and it hasn't been in any really hazardous environment yet. In fact, most of the time it's been in the kitchen - or the WC as I like to hear music when I take a crap. This damn thing is also a piece of crap and will now be going straight back to the place I bought it for a refund. Reading all the comments below is a warning to me not to take this model anymore. Greetings from Germany where the score England - Holland is now 1:1.

Can I mail mine to you for repair? I have this same issue!

This is great but also bad because now I want to buy a Cricut machine and I cant afford new things atm lol 😂😂

Next time use a tiny toothpick or a needle for clothes, a tiny micro drop will be way more than enough. Instead of pouring it straight out of the bottle. And apply it with the toothpick or needle on the switch. To glue it in Place.

Shame the DMR115 DaB signal is poor

What I did was harvest a 3.7V to 1.5V step down PCB from one of those USB-C rechargable AAA batteries. The PCB and a slider switch were JB Welded to the housing and a tiny 180 mAh lipo battery was attached using double-sided tape. I can recharge it via USB-C in 10 minutes. Ugly but functional. No more button cells for me :)

Hi, the "94V-0" on the board does not mean voltage, but a "flammability rating". You checked the motor cables, but did you also check the power cable? I think that's a classic source of failure with a wired device. But then again, you fixed it already :)

it's by design. when it's off, simply sliding the caliper powers it on. It has to draw power to do that. Whether that's a flaw depends on your point of view - but it annoys the hell out of me :-)

Your brave the only way id try is if i had two one working that way i can go from the bad to the good to see whats not the same and what its supposed to be when its good. I also have those adapters for different sockets its definitely over well ming on how many different plugs there are . I converted mine and went with a 5,5 barrel jack i like it because a lot of lap top use it as well most media boxes use it and dvd players as long as you pay attention to what voltage the supply and device is its fine. I can see why a few different style can be handy and a good idea. just because iv seen my parents plug in and as long as it fits they will plug it in and iv tried to explain why thats not good to do because of the different out puts . They only see it as it does or doesn't work . Not understanding it probably did but now it doesn't because you plug in more power then it can handle. Lower voltage is fine it won't turn on but over will fry it . the first thing every one says well the plug fit. My dad didn't like my reply. that why my stuff works and your stuff doesn't. your the one that told me to pay attention when i was little kid. Now I've got to tell you😅. His solution was throwing out all the power supply. If i did have a box of different ones id kept them lol

Awesome video. I have a couple of calipers like these and I have been suffering the same problem. Great mods. Man, that first mod got complicated and seemed like it was a pain. But you're right, it looks really good.

Do you have a link to the replacement diode? Or what specific one I will need

Brilliant video, thank you

You could have just soldered single strands of wire across the gap and used kapton tape. You just over complicated the snot out of a simple and easy repair.

Since I have 3D printers, I would have printed a small rectangle with a slot in it barely big enough for both the original cabe and your home made one so you would say slide it over the original good part and then have to squeeze the new bit in with it thus assuring a tight fit to each other and keeping them properly aligned. Assuming you don't have a 3D printer though. Worked and that's what matters in the end.

You can use silver conductive epoxy. One used to repair car window heaters. Just mask off areas between. Also make sure its thin layer or it will crack. Done it on similar things.

COOL!!!!!!!!!!!! That seemed too easy. Very NICE. AD0TJ

Naughty... You are not supposed to repair over complicated, overpriced consumer electronics. It hurts the hearts of the corporations' shareholders. Buy new. Buy more.

I repaired a lot of ribbon cables in my time. There are two types. The first type is some kind of electronic ink. It is used in some Macbooks, a lot of keyboards and carseats. The only option you have with this is to make your own metallic ink which is not really accurate. The other type and the one you have is called FFC. You can take some higher quality flux like amtech, small speaker wire in the desired thickness and bismuth solder like mechanic x. Then you can use a fine tip like a JBC C210 under a microscope and solder to the leftover pads. It helps to use a fiber brush to clean it up a bit. Wrap in kapton tape for stability.

Nice work! Am glad to see you fixed it. Now am wondering if there's any easier repair without needing the expensive investment you have already made in equipment and in Adobe software. A way to make and maintain the 6 electrical connections using an off-the-shelf part ?

Amazing job.....well done, indeed.

it's a bit small for this type of repair, but rear window defroster repair products work. it is basically a conductive paint meant to bridge broken heater wires on the window. it works for things like keyboards where the features are larger.

Spare Time Repair: The diode is gone, I need to open it and replace it. Apple: You can try..