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It'll depend on whether you've got new glass or original glass too. I have used 1/16" in the past, but my glass may have been different to yours (We made new glass for the customer). If the 1/16" was too thick, the next size down is 3/64". If you can't find it locally, we're happy to send overseas if you need it.

If you can get the frames sitting tight together (the brackets in the lower corners play a very big role in keeping them tight) then the setting tape is very straight forward come time to complete the final installation. A lot of the original frames were only held together by some very thin bent steel. You may want to look into some repro lower corners that the later MGA's etc use. You can then slightly re-shape them, but they're nice and strong.

@@glass4classics427 many thanks, I’II give that ago.

Hi mate, thanks for your comment. If you want to send through an email and we can discuss. enquiries@glass4classics.com.au or you're welcome to call 1300 442 000. Thanks!

Sure can! We keep plenty of it in stock. You're most welcome to grab it off our website or you can email/call us and we can assist you.

Glad it was helpful!

haha how very...progressive of CA! Anybody in AZ you can duck over and visit to borrow some haha? At a pinch I've used just regular glass cleaner when I've run out of Kero. It's more just a case of making sure it's lubricated with something that won't leave a film on it later and cause it to slip back off. The glass cleaner just evaporates over time. Just make sure it's snug when you're putting it on. You still need resistance to hold it in place.

You can buy kerosene at most fuel stations. its around $5 gal here in IL

Always good to hear that it worked. It's part of the reason we put together the video, was to give everyone peace of mind when doing it. I've been doing this over a decade and have never broken a single window yet.

Thanks mate! Surprisingly we do ship quite a bit internationally. We've never had a single breakage when shipping internationally either. If you do source the glass locally, just try to work with 1/4" glass. (That's very close to what ours is), it will allow you to run the 1/16" setting tape/glazing tape and not be too tight.

Thanks for that! I do always like to try and get to the point when explaining things. There's often too much chit-chat that none of us want haha. Glad it was helpful.

We use custom made 6.14mm thick laminated glass and 1.6mm (1/16") setting tape. Most other companies use off-the-shelf laminated glass that is thicker which limits the space in the frame to 0.8mm (1/32") but that's when it starts getting a bit too tight in the frame and cracking is more likely.

thank you I appreciate it.

Sure would. The only thing that can change is the thickness of the setting tape. It will depend on what thickness glass you use and whether you have original or reproduction metal run channels on the bottom. I find the repro run channels are pretty average and need to be squeezed together (they V open instead of having parallel sides) and are normally too long and need cutting down in length. The glass thickness will vary depending on whether you're using laminated glass, toughened glass (every manfuacturer has a preference or perhaps will supply what they have handy, whether that's best for you or not) etc. There are a few different thickness setting tapes available.

We look forward to catching up with you then! :D

@@glass4classics427 I'm still coming I just have to do a bunch of stuff first

G'day mate! We do indeed. We're more than happy to ship over to France. If you'd like to you, you're most welcome to send an email to enquiries@glass4classics.com.au and we can help you out.

Our website is currently being rebuilt, however you are welcome to phone us 1300 442 000 or message us on our Facebook page facebook.com/Glass4Classics/

G'day mate! It's not something we have the pieces in the factory at all, so we can make a video of that specific one. However if you jump onto our youtube channel, you'll see we have a video on fitting the runners onto the wind up windows. It's the same process as the VE VF VG Valiants.

@@glass4classics427 Hey thanks for the heads up Cheers

We keep it in stock. It's only AUD$10 a meter. It's not necessarily a readily available product elsewhere, but there may be some other places that keep it. You'll just need to make sure you get the correct thickness as there is 4x different thickness's available. It's not just a one size fit's all situation.

This is for backglass,I’ve completed all other pieces

Sorry I didn't see your message a few months back. My apologies for that. The original glass was only held in with the U shaped rubber in the rear. It didn't have any setting tape on it (It was prone to leaks). By today's standards I'd use the U shaped rubber and just put a very small bead of windshield mastic (say 1/16") between the rubber and the body. It will help prevent water leaks. The mastic stays pliable unlike silicone and urethane. It also allows for the ability to remove the window with ease should you ever need to.

Glad we could help mate! Keep up the hard work and have fun too :)

Agreed! We rarely have the vehicles in here as we don't do any installation into the vehicles or we'd simply not get any work done during the day haha. Especially time consuming jobs like that. Thanks for the feedback though, keep up the hard work mate!

Sikaflex make the 227 adhesive.

Sorry, we don't have any of those vent window's here to do a video on.

Sikaflex do the 227. It's an awesome product.

G'day Dave, Definitely go with the setting tape (glazing tape/rubber). ruclips.net/video/zUY1XXIBiiA/видео.html

Find install video/book/ install information 1936ford tudor sedan model 68

Thanks for the feedback mate! Much appreciated ;)

It can work, but advisable not too. Bike inner tube is an old trick that lots of people have used for years, but inner tube is stretchy and often ends up not working very well. I've had customers that made the comment they used it and the window popped out of the track or vents popped out of frames while driving because the rubber was stretched when going in and under tension. If you do use the inner tube, it's probably best you use a small amount of urethane on the very end as some insurance to make sure it won't pop out.

auto city glass

Time consuming, due to having to wait for it to dry. Messy if you're not careful (and sometimes even if you are). A pain in the ass to get off if you've screwed up and put it in the wrong spot on the glass, it's dried crooked, or put the wrong channel on the glass...trust me, we get calls weekly from people all over the place that have done that then either broken the window trying to get the runner back off or scratched it. It's just a case of using the right product for the job. It's a couple of minutes to do it properly, or hours waiting for urethane to dry even if it all does go perfectly.

Sorry, just came across your message. We are based in Australia, so we will be one number less than in the USA on the 1300 numbers.

As long as it was a nice snug fit when the runner went on, you're good to put it in immediately. No need to wait at all. Keep up the hard work Jack!

Sorry for the delayed response. We generally find that the 5/64 works for the runners on most of these early Ford/Mercs. The vents I often need to use the 1/16 but it will depend on what glass you're using too. We use 6mm toughened glass, laminated will change that as it's fractionally different.

Glad we could help! Sometimes all you need is a quick video to give you the confidence you need to complete that one job you've doubted yourself on. Have fun!

It's certainly a lot newer than we generally deal with, however usually for that era it's simply a friction fit. The rubber sits on the glass and the runner will push on and just need to be a tight fit. The older vehicles, had the setting tape tack-off which helped as well. It's generally around this era that some of the companies started to use urethane to bond the runners or small brackets to the glass. So there is a chance that's what they used. As I said though, certainly a bit newer than we generally deal with so I can't say for sure.

@@glass4classics427 Thanks heaps for the reply. I’ll clean my channels up and try one of the rubbers and see what happens 👍

Lamp oil will be more than suitable as it's still in the same "family" as kerosene. :) No need to go out and buy anything else.

G'day from Australia! :) There is no actual "conversion kit" available for the Falcon hardtops. The window frames/brackets/runners aren't reproduced at all, so the only option is using second hand parts. It would just mean looking online for some second hand parts to complete the job. Sorry about that.

What model vehicle do you have? In most instances the small channels on the bottom of the runner (that the guide wheel rolls in), will face inwards towards the cabin of the vehicle. If you can let me know the make/model, I may know off the top of my head which way it goes.

@@glass4classics427 Thank you for getting back to me. I have 1939 Packard 120 coupe. On your video the very first picture of your demo showing the runner laying flat with the bends facing up would that side face to the outside of car or towards the inside?