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Wish we had nurseries like this in BumFk US Midwest.

I think the answer to your question can be found by those that practice Bonsai. From what I've gathered as I'm embarking on this journey myself, lack of percolation is a factor of soil degradation which occurs at the particle level over time as roots break down the soil. It's a key indicator for when you should repot your tree for bonsai where soil plays a key role since you're limiting the plants root space in an effort to control growth and require maximum efficiency. Granted they use a specialized soil mix but there are likely commonalities here and soil that clumps and is black is also an indicator of degredation and they remove that with a chop stick picking it out to the core. You'll also probably enjoy watching how they repot a tree, disturbing the root base is not all that much of a concern if done correctly and probably a better way to get fresh soil into the root core or sheen even if not practicing bonsai. Fascinating stuff, recommend Bonsai Mirai channel, there's videos that go into this in detail on the tube. I'm just a novice, but I'm betting that nursery soil has been used and reused and is likely dead, I'd replace it all to the core using bonsai techniques, just goaled at maximum growth instead.

I've been using your method of soil, just with some extra perlite in - mostly working well so far with clay pots which are raised. I am worried about another wet winter though. I really don't want to lose more trees from the rain :(

I've got about half with pine bark+perlite+moss mix and half with more of a potting soil mix with a bit of bark mixed in. I will say the first bunch when I try doing the "water when it's dry" method when temps are 30-40C they definitely get angry looking, shedding leaves and such, while the ones with the more soil-based mixes can go longer between watering even when both are "moist". Primarily pine park potting mixes may look "moist" and feel damp to the touch, however it seems like in higher heats the moisture in the mix is much less freely available for uptake into the tree. I haven't done exact experiments where I have one identical tree with one and one with the other, but I noticed that once it's 30C or higher, especially if there's wind I basically ignore the "water once it's totally dry" advice and water daily no matter if the bark is damp beneath the surface. The trees with soil-based mixes I am a bit more conservative with watering.

great video ! lovely to see and so much info

Great video. I have my own mixture “recipe” that seems to work well here in Texas, and greatly prefer the clay pots, both for the ability to shed excess moisture through the sides, and the weight they bring to help stabilize the trees against wind. (This after I lost several trees through over-potting in large plastic pots which retained too much water.)

What kind of pots those?

So, are we talking about compost or potting mix?

I would also say it doesn’t address the claim to better aeration in certain soil compositions. It’s a good starting point though. I really enjoy the videos and I’m learning a lot.

As you haven’t potted the ‘free draining’ compost you don’t know what’s in it. I can pour a full watering can of 6ltrs through my pot and none stays in the top. For a comparison to be more accurate you’ll have to make the compost yourself for both the ‘free draining’ and your own. Otherwise your assumptions are too big.

Greetings from Greece. I've had lots and lots of failures with the soil mixes sold in the nurseries here. Especially the "ericateous compost" here is a muddy crap that holds like 20x the volume in water and stays saturated for 1 month... The discussion around soils is literally endless, major role is the sun, don't know if you mentioned it. The more the sun exposure, the more water they need. After lots of failures, I've seen some progress with the pre-made soils by adding around 30% perlite, even if they already had perlite in them. What has really helped, though, was adapting to MrMaple's soil, 75% pine bark (fines/3-6mm) then 20% peat and 5% perlite. I increased the peat since here it is very hot and rairily rains so I needed that extra water retention... I have a few more maples in the old crappy mixes that I will experiment next season. The idea is to increase the water retention until I need to water once every 5-7 days. Funny thing is, with that mix I was fearing that I'll need to water every day at least, but I've seen that once every 3 days (or 2 days when it was 40°C) is enough!!! They get 3-4 hours of sun though, need to mention. Moreover, that super free draining mix is very forgiving, meaning that I even upsised the pots by 2-3 times and even watered without being fully dry, and there was no negative effect on the trees. For anyone that wants to start from somewhere, I would recommend starting with a highly draining mix, then monitor how often they need to water, and the next seasons increase the water retending parts (peat,compost etc) until they have the watering schedule that suits them. Cheers, Kostas

Love these kind of experiment video's, very helpfull 👍

Interesting, I wasn’t expecting that result either

Nice video , thank you! What is “more mature compost” exactly?

Thank you for this video Carl you amazing man

Can you keep this tree at 6 feet? Or will it keep growing out of control?

Are you selling these?

Hi, the size pot it's in now is 40cm diameter, 26cm deep.

Is the first repot size 30cm ? My maple trunk is about 15cm thick. Please advise

I would love to have you as my neighbor and a good friend ! Love your gardening skills and the way you teach. Lkeep up your great work!!

I have a few JMs in New Mexico, and other friends have them in Texas. Both are very hot, but the wind is the biggest tree killer. It is just not hot wind, it is also cold wind as you would find in early spring.

While I do like your program, Great Britain "full sun" is like a gentle moist spring where I am. All my maples are in heavy afternoon shade.

What a beautiful planet we are living in 😍

Would have needed the video before I started but lots of the ones you mentioned I am also growing. Like Mikawa yatsubusa, two dissectums, butterfly, Jerre schwartz and little princess. About last one I am a bit confused, I always thought like you said it was named kiyohime in Japanese but some botanical sides call it Mapi-no-machi hime that is a slower growing kiyohime. In which rabbit hole you will end up, when you just want to take cuttings 😅 Again great video Carl!

Oh no I just got Shaina, didn't know it was difficult to grow

Whoa! Never seen what you look like before. That's you in the thumbnail?

Where do you get plant name stakes? I like how the name is in the front and the description is in the back.

Great video again my jerry Schwartz is in the ground and is a very different colour green n pink Shaina is nearly purple strange how the colour changes over the year great too keep up the great content

Thank you very much for all the explanations and advices, now with a bit of luck II try to save my Japanese Maples that I have had for more than 15 years but all the sudden this year her leaves have gone yellow and does look very happy at all!

What kind of purple leaf Japanese maple do not turn green during the summer?

Realy nice to shair your knowledge. I started yet. A south facing garden. What i did is putting steel cables over a part of the garden and grow grapes over it. They create a complete different klimate for me and the acers that do not keep up with full sun. And yeq experiment on those hot days. Be quick to adjust. I had butterfly in full sun for an hour and the new tips got black. Bihoo next to it did just fine. They show it quick when they cant take it. Keep new plants in shade. Putvthem in sun when you are in free time and check them every hour can learn you a lot and prevent big damage.

I got amagi shigure too i love it it’s like purple ghost leaf. For amagi shigure do you recommand full sun ?

Hi Carl, i also lost a branch because of friction 😂 it was a tomato stick that should stabilize the branch in the wind but instead it ended without bark 😅 lesson learned.

I have noticed that japanese maples planted in soil in the seem less troubled by sun and wind as they get bigger and the roots get going.

Thanks for another great video Carl. I've actually just noticed that my Orange Dream's leaves have been skeletonised very similar to a problem I had with a couple of my roses a few years ago that were affected by the rose say fly larvae. I'm guessing this is a similar problem so do you think the Isopropanol would work for this. Apart from a couple of new leaves every leaf has been affected so may be too late.

Brilliant again Carl . your advice and tips have helped me keep my 26 Japanese acers looking great. Heard you mention about staking some of yours, are there any important rules or recommendations regarding staking ? I will have to check your videos in case you have already covered that issue. Thanks great work.

I wish I could trade a Texas summer for a UK summer just once...

Happy Friday, Carl. Enjoy the weekend.

So many great tips! Its really useful that you show examples of each problem. Just one more to add would be raise the pots off the ground with pot feet or put them on gravel like you have so they don't get root rot in wet weather!

This with grafting because not good on own roots is not right ihave over 50 treesonownroot Noprops at all this is thegrowerstryingto Fool aus it's all for money Thanks Carl keep up the good work mate thanks

What type of maple tree is the one that appears at the bottom left at 15:06? The pink one. Thank’s for the vid.

Great vid mate! Would you use isopropanol against milldew or fungus?

What soil mix are you using? 100% composted bark or a mix with a soil?

What’s the size of those pots

Even in full sun and hot temps (zone 7a) I only have to water my potted Mayday JM (about 10" tall) about once a week. I flood the pot, water drains out the bottom, but the soil stays moist for about a week. The plant looks good. I'm surprised at how little moisture the plant takes from the soil. Do I need to make changes?

I did this too, it worked! I planted a new 5 g beautiful fire glow early summer, one day in June it got zapped by too much direct afternoon sun, all leaves had various amounts of damage. I transplanted it immediately for more afternoon shade, crossed my fingers and defoliated it, took a couple of hours as it was otherwise very healthy with a lot of leaves. About 3 to 4 weeks latter all the leaves are leafing out - 😅 whew!!

Its the sun light its self these maples sit in 100 plus degrees in green houses but aren’t exposed to direct sun light they sit under 50% white shade cloth then you or me or someone else buys them then puts them in direct sun light so it evaporates the water out of the leaves and also drys the soul out so the roots dry out and have no water to supply the leaves

I’m in California zone 9-10 what maples would you recommend? Thanks 🫡

My favorite trees. I have a bloodgood and another cold hardy variety in my yard.

I have a Red Dragon which is supposed to do fine in full sun but definitely getting crisped up so i just moved it into the shadier and a less windy area. I live in NJ USA