Видео

A poorly rated and seldom tried hard route at the popular Meadows area of Rumney. What I first thought would be a crappy dumpster dive turned out to force some unique and surprisingly technical beta which was necessary to unlock this cool problem. Warning: I am 5’10” with positive span and had to use just about all my reach to make the foot sequence work in setting up for the crux move.

A great little forgotten face climb overshadowed by its very popular neighbor Good Earth. Less pumpy than that route, but makes up for it with an interesting V6 undercling face crux. Here’s beta so hope to see more people get on it!

My friend Miguel just climbed his first 5.13! Watch as he flows through the hyper technical arete problem on Butt Bongo Fiesta.

A brand new classic put up by Aaron Schneider and John Efromson. When I saw the video of this steep crack feature just before my trip to the New in November, I knew I had to seek it out. In this video I show my crack beta, but keep in mind the FAists climbed it compression style. Even though I was able to jam through the low crux, I’m not sure I made it any easier. What’s cool is I don’t think ...

From April 2023 AKA Fragments of Bone - I had dislocated my ankle 3 weeks prior and the X-ray showed that there were actually a few loose bone chips floating around! At the time I was walking in a boot but could squeeze on an oversized climbing shoe. Standing on my toes or landing on my feet was unthinkable, so lowball roof climbing was my only option. Amazingly, this problem fit all the criter...

Climbs from Jan and Feb 2023 primarily from Blair Woods. Da Luvah V7 0:33 Voodoo Child V9 1:33 Sushi-Don V7 2:44 The Worm V6 3:07 Throwing Trumps V6 3:47 Crystal Method V8 4:25 A Moment of Light V8 5:11

Choss video quality but there’s no beta vids of anything at Sendless wall so here it is.

An amazing technical pockety route in the Can dit Gros sector of Margalef. A powerful boulder problem start leads into an incredibly fun tufa feature. Big pulls on deep pockets through the headwall deposit you at the crux just as the angle becomes more vertical. Some more insecure climbing on vertical terrain brings you to the anchors.

This is a gem of a boulder problem hidden high on the hillside of Kinsman Notch. Established by Dogarf nearly a decade ago, this was its second ascent. Whether you are an offwidth aficionado or a pebble wrestler willing to try something new and test your core strength, this one is a must do. Music: ABBA - Gimme! Gimme! Gimme!

In Re: to Adam Ondra, I present you my #screamsong One of the things I love about climbing is that we can be serious and try hard, yet at the same time we can’t help but laugh at ourselves sometimes for the absurdity of it all. The depths that we go to and the tactics we use to ascend some arbitrary piece of rock are what makes the process so rewarding, but objectively it can get pretty silly w...

Music: Lord Huron - The World Ender

The best (and probably the hardest) pure crack climb in NH. 3 cruxes, brutally sustained, and on the best granite the northeast has to offer. The catch? It’s guarded by a rugged approach that usually clocks in around 1.5 hours. For those willing to put in the effort, this is truly one of the best crack climbing experiences around. I spent 7 weekends on this rig in my quest to climb 5.13 on gear...

Filmed and edited by Emily Wrenn. Find her on Instagram @wallbatphotography This is truly a special line for the northeast and deserves many more ascents. It is viciously sustained, featuring perfect edges and highstep-lockoff moves that will make you feel like a superhero. I can say without a doubt it would rank as a classic in the New River Gorge, the homeland of stellar face climbs. If you l...

This one was a fun puzzle to piece together all the subtle gear placements. I think in the end I figured out a pretty solid rack that at least held up to some simulated whips. I’m trying out a new format here with beta narration. Is it cringy or is it interesting? Let me know what you think. Much of what I find interesting about trad climbing is the gear placements, so by showing that I hope it...

White Lightning 5.13b New River Gorge, WV

Black Rider 5.13a New River Gorge, WV

Big Kahuna 5.12d Rumney, NH

Winter Bouldering 2022 - Hanover, Richmond, Pawtuckaway, NH

Feeding Frenzy 5.13c/d Rumney, NH

Winter Bouldering 2021 - Rumney, Pawtuckaway, NH

Marionette 5.11c trad New River Gorge, WV

Silverbelly 5.13a Wild Iris, WY

Predator 5.13b Rumney, NH

Quinsana Plus 5.13a New River Gorge, WV

Individual Medley V6 Pawtuckaway

The Black Jack Sessions Part 2 - Bouldering in Rumney, NH

The Blair Sessions - Bouldering at Pawtuckaway State Park, NH

Forgetting Lasts So Long (The Alchemist) V9 Sandwich Notch, NH