- Видео 48
- Просмотров 37 960
Franky Lapitino
Добавлен 23 апр 2020
New Hampshire rock climber putting up beta videos and climbing edits
Rumor Has It 5.12b Rumney, NH
Another seldom touched hard route at the parking lot. This one features a fun roof boulder problem protected by a lone glue in bolt. After this crux, cobble together some suspect gear placements for the next 30ft of dirty 5.9 climbing. Highly recommend climbing the first few bolts of A Week With Pete 5.3 and cutting over to the anchors of this one to lower in and pre-place gear.
Просмотров: 83
Видео
Hold Me (aka The Move) 5.13a Rumney, NH
Просмотров 131Месяц назад
A poorly rated and seldom tried hard route at the popular Meadows area of Rumney. What I first thought would be a crappy dumpster dive turned out to force some unique and surprisingly technical beta which was necessary to unlock this cool problem. Warning: I am 5’10” with positive span and had to use just about all my reach to make the foot sequence work in setting up for the crux move.
Bad Seed 5.12d Rumney, NH
Просмотров 2202 месяца назад
A great little forgotten face climb overshadowed by its very popular neighbor Good Earth. Less pumpy than that route, but makes up for it with an interesting V6 undercling face crux. Here’s beta so hope to see more people get on it!
Miguel Lopez: Butt Bongo Fiesta 5.13a Rumney, NH
Просмотров 1,2 тыс.4 месяца назад
My friend Miguel just climbed his first 5.13! Watch as he flows through the hyper technical arete problem on Butt Bongo Fiesta.
New River Gorge Bouldering: Knobber V9
Просмотров 2366 месяцев назад
A brand new classic put up by Aaron Schneider and John Efromson. When I saw the video of this steep crack feature just before my trip to the New in November, I knew I had to seek it out. In this video I show my crack beta, but keep in mind the FAists climbed it compression style. Even though I was able to jam through the low crux, I’m not sure I made it any easier. What’s cool is I don’t think ...
Rumney, NH Bouldering: Fragments of Time
Просмотров 1676 месяцев назад
From April 2023 AKA Fragments of Bone - I had dislocated my ankle 3 weeks prior and the X-ray showed that there were actually a few loose bone chips floating around! At the time I was walking in a boot but could squeeze on an oversized climbing shoe. Standing on my toes or landing on my feet was unthinkable, so lowball roof climbing was my only option. Amazingly, this problem fit all the criter...
Winter Bouldering 2023 - Pawtuckaway’s Superunknown
Просмотров 2116 месяцев назад
Climbs from Jan and Feb 2023 primarily from Blair Woods. Da Luvah V7 0:33 Voodoo Child V9 1:33 Sushi-Don V7 2:44 The Worm V6 3:07 Throwing Trumps V6 3:47 Crystal Method V8 4:25 A Moment of Light V8 5:11
Dissonance 5.13a New River Gorge, WV
Просмотров 2187 месяцев назад
Choss video quality but there’s no beta vids of anything at Sendless wall so here it is.
Almodóvar 7c+/5.13a Margalef, Spain
Просмотров 1507 месяцев назад
An amazing technical pockety route in the Can dit Gros sector of Margalef. A powerful boulder problem start leads into an incredibly fun tufa feature. Big pulls on deep pockets through the headwall deposit you at the crux just as the angle becomes more vertical. Some more insecure climbing on vertical terrain brings you to the anchors.
Sins Not Disco V7 offwidth Kinsman Notch, NH
Просмотров 3479 месяцев назад
This is a gem of a boulder problem hidden high on the hillside of Kinsman Notch. Established by Dogarf nearly a decade ago, this was its second ascent. Whether you are an offwidth aficionado or a pebble wrestler willing to try something new and test your core strength, this one is a must do. Music: ABBA - Gimme! Gimme! Gimme!
Scream Song by Franky Lapitino: Inspired by @AdamOndra
Просмотров 214Год назад
In Re: to Adam Ondra, I present you my #screamsong One of the things I love about climbing is that we can be serious and try hard, yet at the same time we can’t help but laugh at ourselves sometimes for the absurdity of it all. The depths that we go to and the tactics we use to ascend some arbitrary piece of rock are what makes the process so rewarding, but objectively it can get pretty silly w...
Pretty Bloc Swag V11 Pawtuckaway State Park, NH
Просмотров 590Год назад
Music: Lord Huron - The World Ender
357 (aka Angel) 5.13b trad climb Greens Cliff, NH
Просмотров 1,5 тыс.Год назад
The best (and probably the hardest) pure crack climb in NH. 3 cruxes, brutally sustained, and on the best granite the northeast has to offer. The catch? It’s guarded by a rugged approach that usually clocks in around 1.5 hours. For those willing to put in the effort, this is truly one of the best crack climbing experiences around. I spent 7 weekends on this rig in my quest to climb 5.13 on gear...
Attack of the White Owl 5.13c - 2nd Ascent - Owls Cliff, NH
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.Год назад
Filmed and edited by Emily Wrenn. Find her on Instagram @wallbatphotography This is truly a special line for the northeast and deserves many more ascents. It is viciously sustained, featuring perfect edges and highstep-lockoff moves that will make you feel like a superhero. I can say without a doubt it would rank as a classic in the New River Gorge, the homeland of stellar face climbs. If you l...
Trad Climbing Gear Analysis: Blueballs at Christmas 5.11c R at Rumney - Sketchy Gear Tested
Просмотров 3 тыс.Год назад
This one was a fun puzzle to piece together all the subtle gear placements. I think in the end I figured out a pretty solid rack that at least held up to some simulated whips. I’m trying out a new format here with beta narration. Is it cringy or is it interesting? Let me know what you think. Much of what I find interesting about trad climbing is the gear placements, so by showing that I hope it...
White Lightning 5.13b New River Gorge, WV
Просмотров 629Год назад
White Lightning 5.13b New River Gorge, WV
Winter Bouldering 2022 - Hanover, Richmond, Pawtuckaway, NH
Просмотров 6142 года назад
Winter Bouldering 2022 - Hanover, Richmond, Pawtuckaway, NH
Winter Bouldering 2021 - Rumney, Pawtuckaway, NH
Просмотров 3822 года назад
Winter Bouldering 2021 - Rumney, Pawtuckaway, NH
Marionette 5.11c trad New River Gorge, WV
Просмотров 8542 года назад
Marionette 5.11c trad New River Gorge, WV
Quinsana Plus 5.13a New River Gorge, WV
Просмотров 8 тыс.3 года назад
Quinsana Plus 5.13a New River Gorge, WV
The Black Jack Sessions Part 2 - Bouldering in Rumney, NH
Просмотров 3683 года назад
The Black Jack Sessions Part 2 - Bouldering in Rumney, NH
The Blair Sessions - Bouldering at Pawtuckaway State Park, NH
Просмотров 3703 года назад
The Blair Sessions - Bouldering at Pawtuckaway State Park, NH
Forgetting Lasts So Long (The Alchemist) V9 Sandwich Notch, NH
Просмотров 2463 года назад
Forgetting Lasts So Long (The Alchemist) V9 Sandwich Notch, NH
sick send. Was always curious about this line!
Thank you for posting videos of the less popular rumney routes. It inspires me to get on them!
That is the goal!
Rarely done 13a! Love trying obscure lines out there. Nice send and thanks for posting the vid!
Nice. :)
Just when I told a friend I wanted to work on this! Always dropping the beta!
this is the most hype predator vid on YT
this camera angle shows why this route is hard. nice send!
LETS GO
Yeahhhh Miguel! BBF is such an awesome climb. Such a rad position on that stacked crag. Also psyched that you finished with a proper mantel topout! 😃
beautifully filmed 🎉
some of those jam positions look gnarly sick send dude
Just built different. Your tenacity is incredible. Nice job on the climb and nice video. :)
If he falls, he will fling his tiny belayer over the top of the wall like a trebuchet.
Beautiful 7c+ Nice send 👍 How did you do with the cam? How this is filmed if no one behind the cam 😳
For those interested in venturing out to this one I have added it to Mountain Project here www.mountainproject.com/route/125157338/sins-not-disco
This is so sick, I need to get out there.
SICKKKKK
lifetime project reference
Fun fact - the star of lifetime project himself was there in support pulling back the tarp!
feeding franky
you'd get banned at evo for that much screaming
Tendons of steel young man, good work
lets goooooooo
Dude ever since I saw it made your list I knew I’d have to do it someday!
@@frankylapitino8317 what'd ya think??? top hunnid???? I haven't pulled on but remember looking when I was like 16 and being mindblown
@@eric.jerome Obviously I'm biased but I have to say yes. I haven't traveled much for bouldering but it might be the best I've ever done. It's at least tied with Blockbuster, do that one too if you ever come this way for PBS.
What a line. Awesome job and thank you for sharing this; it probably would have been a while since I finally make it over here but now I'm wicked psyched on this!
Thank you! And that’s awesome that you’re psyched, go get on it! I can’t recommend it enough
That's an awesome send. Really really nice job. :)
BFG
Really cool edit. Route looks awesome - just another reason for me to get out there. Thanks for sharing!
Proud one dude!! Its gotta be one of the best in New England for sure. Totally Pure and Pretty the whole way!!
Nice Work! Kind of an amazing line, it looks vertical and totally blank from below, but there are just enough edges in all the right places.
It doesn’t even look climbable until there’s chalk on the holds! Pure as can be too, take away one of those edges in the crux and it might not even go. Wish we had more like this in the northeast
This video is a cringe compilation but an intriguing one. Makes me want to send the route!! I actually really like this. Do one for Punter and his Frog!
Added to The List
Hi there, My name is Alfred D and I am from NY. I was wondering if you can perhaps share beta as to how to get to this boulder. Ive always wanted to try it. If the location was shared with me, I would happily keep it to myself as I am careful to preserve access to boulders. Nice work on the send. looked smooth. Thanks for considering.
Good stuff!!!
Animal
Love this format, more please!
Fucking rad: kneebars, foot cuts, hard crack, and it wouldn't be NE without a useless tricam on your harness (I assume that's for hammering out nuts you've fixed?). Glad hard lines at Green's are getting attention - that cliff is world class.
Yup you guessed it! The white tricam is my trusty nut hammer
Looks like my home crag (Index). Way steeper though. Nice video and fun finish.
People tell me you got to have a 6 cam, you proved it.
Actually, no #6 is needed! I did use a #5 though and 3 #4s.
Dude the tunes! Huge TOOL fan here and have seen them close to twenty times since 94! Nice selection and great work!!! Lateralus was definitely one of their best!
Only at 6, 22 is gnarly
Glad you liked it! This one happened to work particularly well with the drop right at the deadpoint to the hand jam. Always good to see more climber TOOL fans
TOOL is the best!!! Listen to them while climbing and snowboarding!!! Haven't seen them live yet but I want to bad!!!
They put on an amazing show that gets better as they get older. Like Maynard's wines actually! The lasers and visuals are top notch. Just make sure you you are early in the ticket cue as I've seen them sell out the TD North Boston in 10 minutes!!!
:D
For a short route, it's got a bunch of cool moves! Congrats on the send, especially that heinous first move. I wired the rest but was never able to get that one for the send. Anyone for the sit start?
Made it look easy! Fantasic
Beautiful line 😍 Congratulations
Amazing!
great job ! love your videos of hard northeast climbs that rarely get done, let alone video'd
Thank you! I’ve put a lot of time into some of these lesser known gems this year, and I hope that by showing them more people will get out and try them.
Those lock offs are sick! The camera angle really shows the holds well. Looks hard man, good work!
Great send and awesome edit too! Enjoyed the video!! Thanks for sharing
Those slopers at the end look intense!
Looks like you found some good gear. Nice job! Ballnuts are very strong for their relatively small size.
thanks for making this! I've had thoughts of closing this crag out but the two R rated 11s always looked too spicy. Looks like I don't have any small enough gear anyways right now to make this climb go safely.
License to Ill is significantly “less R” and a really fun route. I’d recommend giving it a try. You don’t need any crazy small gear and it shouldn’t even feel that spicy if you check the gear first on TR.
@@frankylapitino8317 that's what the MP comments say! I'm excited to get back to rumney next season. Hope to see you out there!
I'd caution against the ethics of pulling chockstones out in order to improve a route. That could be seen by some as modifying the route. I don't think there was any ill intent or issue here, especially if they were as loose as you described, but someone could easily take this as suggesting its ok to make more significant modifications to routes or chipping in order to make a route more protectable, which is questionable
Agreed. But there is a difference between cleaning and chipping - the question is where to draw the line. Of course that depends on who you ask. Imo cleaning via hand pressure with a nut tool is fair game, especially considering the rock at Rumney is less than perfect and heavy cleaning is standard practice.
Would you leave a twig with leaves in a rock before you placed protection?
Choss is the enemy! I use crowbar to test all my holds and foothold when I'm out developing!!! Get that junk outta there before it gets you outta there!!! For real I see where you're coming from but I don't think someone's gonna say chipping is okay cause a dude removed a loose chalkstone
this video was awesome. Thanks brother
Nice to see you doubling up on less-than-textbook placements. If you’re unsure of placements, you might as well throw in something else too!…Hopefully something will hold!