Trad Climbing Gear Analysis: Blueballs at Christmas 5.11c R at Rumney - Sketchy Gear Tested
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- Опубликовано: 29 сен 2022
- This one was a fun puzzle to piece together all the subtle gear placements. I think in the end I figured out a pretty solid rack that at least held up to some simulated whips.
I’m trying out a new format here with beta narration. Is it cringy or is it interesting? Let me know what you think. Much of what I find interesting about trad climbing is the gear placements, so by showing that I hope it’s a little more exciting to watch.
Love this format, more please!
Great video, thank you. I should do these kind of tests more often. Im quite conservative when im on trad, and rarely take a falls, so while im getting more exprienced placing gear, I'm not really getting more experienced assessing the quality of placements. Most "how to trad climb" videos onlines shows bomber placement and tells you that's what a bomber looks like, but it doesn't really help you assess maginal placements.
This video is a cringe compilation but an intriguing one.
Makes me want to send the route!! I actually really like this. Do one for Punter and his Frog!
Nice to see you doubling up on less-than-textbook placements. If you’re unsure of placements, you might as well throw in something else too!…Hopefully something will hold!
this video was awesome. Thanks brother
Looks like you found some good gear. Nice job! Ballnuts are very strong for their relatively small size.
very well done, done in good style, and while being humble
thanks for making this! I've had thoughts of closing this crag out but the two R rated 11s always looked too spicy. Looks like I don't have any small enough gear anyways right now to make this climb go safely.
License to Ill is significantly “less R” and a really fun route. I’d recommend giving it a try. You don’t need any crazy small gear and it shouldn’t even feel that spicy if you check the gear first on TR.
@@frankylapitino8317 that's what the MP comments say! I'm excited to get back to rumney next season. Hope to see you out there!
I'd caution against the ethics of pulling chockstones out in order to improve a route. That could be seen by some as modifying the route. I don't think there was any ill intent or issue here, especially if they were as loose as you described, but someone could easily take this as suggesting its ok to make more significant modifications to routes or chipping in order to make a route more protectable, which is questionable
Agreed. But there is a difference between cleaning and chipping - the question is where to draw the line. Of course that depends on who you ask. Imo cleaning via hand pressure with a nut tool is fair game, especially considering the rock at Rumney is less than perfect and heavy cleaning is standard practice.
Would you leave a twig with leaves in a rock before you placed protection?
Choss is the enemy! I use crowbar to test all my holds and foothold when I'm out developing!!! Get that junk outta there before it gets you outta there!!!
For real I see where you're coming from but I don't think someone's gonna say chipping is okay cause a dude removed a loose chalkstone