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Thanks. It’s MPH.

Hi there, thank you for your nice comments 👍 Have you converted your speeds given from KPH to MPH to compare to my UK spec speedometer? (2nd gear) 85 kph = 53 mph, (3rd) 126 kph = 78 mph, (4th) 165 kph = 103 mph. I think this may be the difference, let me know what you think?

@@somotorrad5509 Your bike will definitely go faster if you switch your odometer kph

My pleasure! 👍 In most of my bikes I use Motul 7100 (fully synthetic). Only because it’s a brand I’ve been using for years and I stock up on it when I can find discounts. Not that I really believe the brand is too important though. Changing it more often than the service schedule is the best insurance. I’ve stuck with the grade from the manual, 10w40.

@@somotorrad5509 Thanks. So the Street Triple RS is inline 3 cylinder 4-stroke engine? Because this oil is desighned for 4-stroke engines, right?

That’s right it’s 4 stroke, which is often labelled as 4T (instead of 2T) on containers. From the owners manual for this bike, the oil must meet the specifications API SH (or higher) and JASO MA, which will be written on the container.

As far as I’m aware it’s only manually triggered. I’ve been pressing the toggle button each time over the start/finish.

Thanks 👍 It does a bit, but… I tried a small screen which I used in a couple of my Brands Hatch uploads. It makes little difference and looks awful. I’m doing this for fun, not racing, so I took it off. I don’t mind getting my head down and really hugging the tank, but watching some 600 sports-bikes ride away on the straights can make it more challenging when you are trying to get past politely. I’ve owned sports-bikes in the past and just don’t pick them anymore as they are too uncomfortable for me now. I just appreciate handlebars instead of clip-ons. If I was younger and slimmer or started racing, I would consider a sports-bike. On bigger naked bikes I’ve found there is eventually a threshold at about 150mph (240kph) when it just becomes too hard to hold on. That’s okay if you want to see how fast your bike goes once, but tiring and limiting if you intend to try that repeatedly all day. The 765 can’t do 150mph so it’s not a problem! I think a Daytona would set a faster lap time, probably by a couple of seconds, mainly because of the fairing and therefore the top speed, but would it be anymore fun? Also for me personally, I would not be bothered to ride the Daytona on the road, like I would the Street Triple. For me, a Daytona would only ever be a track bike. If I were to buy one again currently for track riding, I would look at an older version of the 765. There are more aftermarket tuning/modifications available to make it more track/race worthy. This latest 23> model is still limited and restricted in that respect frustratingly.

@@somotorrad5509 thanks for the super detailed reply! This bike would mainly be for the track and I personally prefer the supersport position. I do know the older ST765s can be converted to Daytonas. I will have to do some rides and see what my heart says lol. So many great bikes.... thanks again!

Thanks 👍 Having ridden sports-bikes for years, I’ll now take this over the R6 for fun on track. Even for learning and improving. Chasing tenths for racing is a different story. Great to hear you’ve now experienced what you are in for 👍 If you haven’t already, get some crash protection and tank grips on the ST and enjoy. You’ve definitely got the bike for it 😁

I’d forgotten about it. I’d been adjusting it on the way round during the previous session, not the best time to be doing it! 👍

Exactly, if they eventually have the ability to remap this model I may consider it. I’ve had a RapidBike Evo on my Tenere for a few years, but it’s the restrictions of the ECU that I’d like to eliminate, which the RapidBike doesn’t do. At this rate by the time they’re able to remap this I may have put the money towards buying yet another bike to ride on track! I bought this as a bit of a step back to something very manageable, to focus on my riding and it’s brilliant for that. It’s so accurate, so easy to ride and then be able to ring every last ounce out of it. So I’m okay with the limited power for now. The bike was probably quicker with the Puig screen I tried on there. But it’s so off-puttingly ugly I had to take it off again and instead just accept it’s slower on the straights. It’s nice to go back to the same circuit and work on getting quicker. When the lap-times come down I know it’s down to what I’ve learnt, rather than down to a change I made to the bike since last time. So hopefully see there sometime soon 👍

Hi Aled, no worries 👍 Time and money, I wish we could do it all. At least if you’re doing more track-days I’m more likely to get to ride with you at one of those. I hope so. Although I’ve got to prepare myself for you getting a fresher bike and leaving me behind next time.

Thank you very much 👍 No rearsets unfortunately! I cannot find any for this new model yet that will work with the different 4 wire brake light switch apparently. I desperately want some though, the standard foot-rests limit how far I can lean on track. I have changed just the foot-pegs though, to some LSL folding ones, for the more knurled grip and I can scrape them away without worrying. The lap timer has to be pressed and trigged manually each lap. I had it on the screen to remind me, but still forgot to use it. I had my phone under the seat recording lap times. Behind the R1 rider I recorded a 1m42s, which I also recorded the following day there. The GoPro is mounted with a very chunky 1” ball Ram mount bolted to the bars you can see in the footage, with a 3” arm to the camera.

@somotorrad5509 that's impressive with the standard rearsets. I was behind you at one point cheering for you when you were leaning 😂 Looked fecking sick 😎

Hi there, yep I kept the GoPro mount raised slightly to make sure the key wasn’t hiding the view of the gear indicator. I should have it in the brighter white background setting really, but you can see me more easily in this darker reflection moving about to give another view for free! Exactly that, I was short-shifting into 3rd just as it starts to wheelie to keep the wheel down. It’s difficult to see but there are two crests that cause it, one smaller one immediately after the first. In my upload from the following day I hit a false-neutral there whilst chasing the race team bikes, which is rare with this gearbox, so I take the blame for that one.

Thanks, it’s doing well on track for such a friendly road bike.

Yep, the footrests/rear-sets are standard, but I have replaced just the foot-pegs with some much narrower LSL ones in an attempt to gain some ground clearance. My boots are wider and it’s a struggle to squeeze them up out of the way without my toe sliders touching down before my foot-pegs.

It’s still road shift, which is all I’m used to. I think those Moto 2 clip-ons look like a very nice height, not too extreme. I would be interested to know too.

Thanks 👍 So many to choose from and I have tried to ride most of them. I test rode a 2020 Tuono Factory. Very nice front end feel, but very cramped, especially compared to the MT10. Definitely one to try before you buy, if you haven’t already. The 765 is great on road, just enough for me. On track it is a brilliant manageable tool to develop your skills. Obviously the power becomes a limiting factor to lap-times eventually, if that matters.

Thank you very much 👍 I took a step back this time to slow down a bit more in the turns and get pointed in the right direction to get on the throttle as soon as possible for the straights in particular, where I lose time on the bigger bikes. Ground clearance is a limiting factor here, as I don’t have racing rear-sets. This is why the traction warning is coming on so much, it is through spinning up marginally, not wheelying. You cannot feel it intervening, if it really is with this small amount of slip? It may be just allowing this much slip in the track setting. It’s not intrusive though or even dangerous like some older systems, but it does completely intrude into wheelies. The bike is perfectly manageable without it, which is good as I hope to be returning to Cadwell soon. There I switched it off permanently to stop it cutting in too soon whilst needing to wheelie over ‘the mountain’. I have it switched off on the road all the time. Triumph need to separate slip and lift at least, like Yamaha and others. I was trying out the screen settings to see if I could make it any clearer and simpler to read just for the footage! It is pointless on track, completely unreadable in any setting. Thankfully I know what gear I’m in on track, because I am counting them up and down in my head generally, to hit my ‘markers’. As for the rev-limiter, I’m just listening to this quiet stock exhaust and guessing. I hit the rev-limiter often because it is still gaining power at that point, which is frustrating. It needs a higher rev limit and at least a bright flashing programmable rev light.

Thank you for sharing your thoughts about the lack of usability of the display. I sometimes jokingly refer to the display design by Triumph as being an intentional safety feature. They knowingly made it useless so that riders will keep their eyes focused on the road or track instead of staring at the display. On a more serious note, I usually don't focus much on the display, and particularly the tach, once I am used to riding a bike, as I can recognize through engine sound and feel what the rev range is. But, it is always nice to at least have a display that you can look at in a glance to keep tabs on where things are when you need to confirm what's going on, such as monitoring your speed if you are concerned about getting ticketed. Fortunately, speeding fines are not a big concern for me because little is done to enforce limits where I ride in Thailand. One of the future model iterations of the Street Triple will likely be touted by Triumph as having a fantastic new display that you can actually read while in motion! Then as their marketing strategy will probably go, everyone with an older model will want to trade theirs in to get the new features.

Thanks 👍 watching my own footage from just a month before, seeing where I can improve and getting the chance to have another go so soon definitely helps.

Thank you 👍 Whilst I am missing the power a bit and have to watch the bigger bikes walk away on the straights, I’m getting more time to think about what I’m doing to make changes and improve.

@@somotorrad5509 yeah and you find you carry more corner speed in doing so and the deficit isn’t actually that much really. Anyone can go fast in a straight line. 😉

Hi there, I remember, lovely bike. I’ll come and say hello if I see you on another day. It was a while ago for me now, just because I’ve been riding for years, including track-days. Big differences in speed and unpredictable lines causes problems, which I’ve experienced and no doubt you will have seen. I guess it comes down to experience, confidence and honesty. In the advanced group especially I find riders will appear up the inside of you on the brakes into corners (especially me trying to get past on my slower bike!), so you need to be experienced enough not to be surprised and confident enough to adjust your line a bit without them distracting you. Many more days out on track is the best way to find out! 😁

​@@somotorrad5509 Hey, thank you so much for very detailed reply. I'll definitely keep that in mind when I feel the time is right, but for now I'll just keep dodging the slower riders in Inters. Many thanks again friend👍🏻

Thank you. I’ve been trying to identify your R1. I recognise your leathers as I shared your garage if that’s correct?

@@somotorrad5509 yes that was me, first day out on the R1 as it was a neglected crashed road bike before. Off to Spa now with No Limits. Hope to see you at a future trackday

Your R1 looked very nicely set up now, I had a good look. I really want to try Spa myself, having been around there enough times on Gran Turismo! I will keep an eye out for you 👍

Thanks. Yeah, there is satisfaction to be had out of ringing every last drop out of these engines, which is so much more of the time than the bigger bikes. I’ve watched that video before too and just the noise makes it seem even faster.

Thanks. I watched your Donington video, along with your tuning videos previously. Thank you for the time you put into making those.

@@somotorrad5509 ah nice one! Thanks for watching! 😎😁👍👌

Thank you, ‘Puig Sport Screen | Clear | Triumph Street Triple 765 R/RS 2023>Current’. Have a look at my comments on it in the description though.

True Dat!

Thank you.

Hi, thank you. This is the first upload using my newer GoPro 11. I didn’t like the way the stabilisation takes away the true movement of the bike, so I tried it without here. I also used Wide instead Superview, to get a less distorted image but still enough view. I think Track and Rider allow you to make similar adjustments, not that there is much to choose from. It’s an absolute must to put it in Track ABS and it is fine, but I wish I could at least turn it off (Euro5!). Previously I used it at Cadwell Park with the Traction Control switched off, just so that I wasn’t losing time whilst wheelying over ‘The Mountain’. To be fair TC is not that necessary on this bike. I have it turned off all the time on the road as I prefer the freedom! But around Brands I thought it was ideal to leave it on and test it out a bit. If you look carefully through the glare you can see it flashing sometimes, but it is not really intervening much. Nice to have as a bit of insurance though and most importantly it does not intrude. I keep the Map or throttle response nearly always in Road even on track, as it is just more progressive and natural feeling. I always use that on road. This time I tried Sport with effectively a quicker action throttle to reduce the amount of wrist movement/angle to give my fore-arm a comfortable angle more of the time. It was okay, not as nice as Road, but it did reduce my arm movement. I hope on future bikes that Triumph fit a display that you actually see whilst moving, especially the RPM, and give people the ability to switch off wheelie control and keep the TC on, like other manufacturers do.

@@somotorrad5509 I've got the same model bike, Cosmic Yellow and all, although I'm still in the break-in mode and have not been pushing the bike very hard yet. About the throttle response Map, I agree that the Road setting seems much easier to live with than the Sport setting, which I find to be a little too sensitive and abrupt. I like to practice manually blipping the throttle while simultaneously clutching, downshifting and braking, and the Road setting works well for that. All of my riding will likely be limited to road use since tracks are few and far between where I live in Thailand, so I may never get to experience riding on a track as you do. Watching your videos is the next best thing to being able to do that myself, and I can learn from your experiences to take advantage of riding this very capable bike.

Hi from the UK and thank you. I guess my bike was made there. Like most quick-shifters, they are great when riding fast and especially on track for lap-times, but for normal riding on road I think they damage your gearbox over time. Learning how to time gear changes completely manually with the clutch can be much smoother, more satisfying and better for your bike, especially in the lower gears. This bike is refined, so is great for that. Enjoy!

Oh, and the owners manual states that the chain adjustment should be between just 20-30mm of slack. That seems too tight to me and the Triumph technician even stated so. I keep mine close to 35mm or greater, pushing the chain up and down to measure. It feels better and I find the quick-shifter seems to change smoother at that adjustment.

@@bobeyes3284 😂 yeah having had a Gsxr1000R and now on a 765RS, that’s exactly it! 😂. Power makes up for lack of skill, I’d agree. Smaller bike helps you find the speed though, both great fun though and that’s what it’s all about at the end of the day! Far too many bragging rights, if your smile is wide enough, the rest doesn’t matter! 👍😎😁

Thanks. I can’t say I remember that bump there, but they have resurfaced several of the bends recently by the looks of it. It is definitely smoother overall. It’s a shame for me as I like a few bumps to make it more interesting, especially on a smaller bike with less power to manage.

I didn't feel it. The track is in perfect condition lots of new surface.

Hi, no, it was not from a negative experience on this bike, as I fitted these EBC GPFAX pads as soon as I took it on track. It was mainly from previous experiences. Bear in mind that this model comes with the newer Brembo calipers and more importantly an improved ABS setting for Track use. I did not try the previous ‘22 model on track, but I did test ride it on the road and the ABS intervened noticeably sooner than this later model in the Track ABS setting, which is nothing to do with the pads. These racing brake pads work well in this heat range on track, but they are ‘not for road use’ (I don’t know the reason why), they wear quicker and produce loads more brake dust. They do cost a lot more considering how quickly they wear, in much the same way track tyres do. If you are riding in the Novice or Intermediate groups I am guessing the standard road pads will be absolutely fine and you may not get any benefit, only if you are trying to out-brake the fastest bikes in the Advanced group as your only option to overtake like I am trying to do in this video, or chasing lap times, will the difference be worth it. If you are confident and experienced though, research on forums whether you can disable the ABS on your model with a spacer in the ABS sensor or similar. I wish I could do that to this model, as I have done with other bikes. I tried it and again this bike prevents you from making any changes and reduces the engine power! Thanks Euro5 for reducing my fun!

​@@somotorrad5509I believe you can turn ABS off in the menu. Pretty sure I saw an off setting in there.

Thank you. This bike loses out on the straights. Most of those 600’s aren’t restricted like this is (with a speed limiter) and they have the fairings to help reach that extra speed. If I went out on a 600 SuperSports bike I have no doubt I would lap faster. I am sure the older 675 Daytona probably laps faster for those very reasons.

@@somotorrad5509it is exactly like you say from my experience. I have a Daytona 675 R 2013 track bike, mildly optimized electronics and exhaust and a 765 RS 2024. I would definitely beat my time on the ST with the Daytona, the suspension with the STX damper and the Showa fork is not on par with the TTX and Öhlins fork of the Daytona. Still very good though. 3 weeks ago I have bought another 765 RS which is modified for track only with fairings etc., suspension high end upgrade, Bonamici rear set, steering damper and what not. Still I have to beat the Daytona lap time, I just feel so comfortable on it and it’s more stable in high speed turns, the Streety is a little more flickable, almost nervous, but that will change soon with another triple clamp to adjust some parameters. Fell in love with those triples, obviously 😂

No unfortunately, no body worn at all. Only on the bike and it is not allowed to be attached to the tank.

I try, thanks 👍