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Wow, 15 years on and I'm still getting comments on this video....... The Morin 6-C is what I used in the video as a pin gauge and should fit your saw. You may need to give the shoe screws a good overnight soak with WD-40 before you try to remove them and flip the shoes around. I don't have any of the earlier Morin gauges for comparison but from pics, they don't seem to have removable shoes. I finish my rakers with an Anderson #2 gauge.

@@PATCsawyer Pat so can I use the opposite side of the pin gauge of the Morin 6-C to file down the raker flat and then start shaping? Will that side fit my saw? Thanks for you help!!!!

Not easy, and I'm sure Tirfor has a special tool for this. If you're careful, cut a short length of 1/4" steel pipe and slot it on both sides with a hacksaw then widen the slot. Place the butterfly washer between the pipe and spring, align the slots with the pin hole and compress the spring over the shaft with a squeeze clamp until the butterfly washer is past the pin hole. Insert nail and de-tension the clamp. Wear safety glasses because this may take a few tries and you don't want that spring launching back at you.

This is an old video from back when I was trying different techniques. Today I set most big saw teeth on a 50lb. bench anvil made from a forklift tine. Is this the forum you mean: facebook.com/groups/Sawfilers I post a lot on that one and there are many other saw filers who answer questions and talk techniques. Watch my saw filing video and look at how I compare dial gauges with spiders. The dial gauges work best on flat saws where the teeth have been hammer set, since the tooth bend happens farther up the cutter. Saws that are dished or teeth that were wrested will throw a dial gauge set way off, as the gauges feet are not on a flat surface. Spider feet sit well below the tooth, and while slower, can be more accurate in some uses. Regarding your tool box, don't buy ANY tools from the Crosscut Saw Company. Quality is WAY inferior. Start surfing eBay for gauges and other gear. My personal gear bag has an Atkins #4 hammer, Anderson raker gauge, Atkins #15 pin gauge, home-made dial raker gauge, dial set gauge, and several spiders.

You're welcome. The saw in the video was a little Disston, good saw but not my favorite. The Atkins 390 on my YT cover photo is my go-to saw for single bucking. Dolly is indeed a National Treasure for her expertise and knowledge of traditional tools.

@@PATCsawyer tried to register on the crosscutsawyer forum days ago, to chime in and possibly get some answers to questions i have. has the site gone idle

@@billhackley3540 FB has a good page for saw filing: facebook.com/groups/Sawfilers

I've been posting on that site since 2016. Lots of good saw discussion.

We left anything that could be walked under and concentrated on trees actually blocking the trail. Those leaners were bound to come down over time. It's a remote area and the trail crews don't have easy access.

Glad to hear you're still in the game. Most of that logout was weather perfect, plenty of sunshine except for the last day's sleet storm, and no mosquitos! Didn't encounter any dogs, but heard wolves howling at night.

I wish! It was iPhone photos and video the whole way. I tried to convince a reporter that it would make a great story (and to bring along a photographer), but we were too far from civilization for that to get any traction. The one thing I wish I had captured was the sound of those tensioned trees exploding like rifle shots when we cut into them. Saw was a Simonds 325.

Yes, you hear every snap, crackle, and pop of the fibers as your saw sings through the log.

The Southern Appalachian Wilderness Stewards are very active in Virginia. Their crosscut crews are out regularly much of the year and are always looking for help. Join them and make those saws sing.

I haven't purchased any parts lately, but Torqhoist was my go-to place. They have regional sales offices in the USA. Mike Polster was my contact michael@torqhoist.com He may still be working there.

@@PATCsawyer Thanks for the info

Do you have the complete parts breakdown of the TU-17? Actually, my unit is almost all dismanteld. I found that the spring of the front jaw is missing. I took several pictures of my super unit !!

For sure, I saw the breakdown on your video but it's kind blurry. So, I don't see very well

@@aguertin3846 Try this www.torqhoist.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/127192941183775.pdf

The winch wire wasn't matched to the block sheaves, as this was just a test setup. Nowadays a pro version would use Dyneema. Less chance of injury if you overload and snap the rope.

Thanks. Glad this video still holds up over time. It really helps to have good tools and gauges to keep the filing within close tolerances.

Ever work with any of the SAWS folks? They have an office in Roanoke.

@@PATCsawyer yes, Eric G.

@@saltymarine Eric 's a good guy. If you enjoy crosscutting, look into the Wilderness Skills Institute at the Cradle of Forestry in Brevard NC. Their program signup should be starting soon.

The channel lattice doesn't like getting drilled and screwed but the Velcro wraps keep it tight. I like firehose the least, as it soaks up water and can be punctured by the saw teeth.

What mistakes did you make? That video is 12 years old, and while it covers the basics, there are many other steps/techniques that I use now that I couldn't include in the original video.

@@PATCsawyer mostly attention to the rakers. I swaged them right to .012", that left me nothing to dress to final shape with a file. Also I swaged some crooked, so I had no meat left on the tooth to correct with a file. I did the cutters ok, but the angles weren't consistent. That is mostly just due to lack of experience. Also I hadn't heard of rolling the file at the tip like you did. Now I'm itching to make a saw vise and sharpen another!

@@themadmailler Have you visited crosscutsawyer.com? Good discussion and database of filing info. I have a lot of posts on that site. Do you live anywhere near Michigan? Hartwick Pines is hosting their Black Iron days the last weekend of August. Lots of blacksmithing but I'll be the only saw filer there.

@@PATCsawyer I'll have to check out the site! Nowhere near Michigan, but if I was I would definitely check out that event. Thanks!

Christopher - I used a cant saw file in the video because it was what I had on hand. Nicholson mill files from most any hardware store should hold up long enough to finish two saws. Some filers like Bahco or other files not locally available, but buying a single file online and paying the ship charge can be more expensive than getting a couple Nicholsons and accepting that they will wear out faster. Ebay is a good place to look for NOS tools but requires patience as "everybody" is looking for quality old tools. Perhaps try FB marketplace. A good source of saw filing info is crosscutsawyer.com The search function is a little slow but there are good exchanges among filers about tools and techniques.

@@PATCsawyer thank you! I Spent last night in the resources and bid on a bunch. Fingers crossed. I appreciate your input and experience! Thank you!

I’m waiting for my crosscutsawyer username to be approved; hopefully I will run it to you over there. Thank you again!

I use either a lithium or red tacky grease. The important thing is to NOT USE molybdenum disulfide (Moly) grease as it could cause the jaws to slip. As for the rest, I just lube it up good with heavy differential oil, as it will adhere better than motor oil. With the exception of the Moly grease, any regular lubricant is better than running it dry.

It's about 22° primary with a small secondary. Has to work harder in oak.

@Alexander Kayne I freehand the profile with a bastard file/mill file using a draw file technique and finish with various grits of sandpaper stuck to a Home Depot paint stirrer. Low tech all the way. I've posted a discussion on filing GA saws on crosscutsawyer.com

I've been chopping that way for so long I do it without thinking about it, just my natural swing.

20° primary with a small secondary.

My old AT crew would often bring a DB along to augment the Tuatahi and crosscut saw when clearing trail in Virginia.

Le TU-16 ressemble à un TU-28. C'est comme un gros TU-17. La maintenance est similaire mais les pièces sont plus grandes www.torqhoist.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/127192941183775.pdf

It's a hungry axe and likes whatever I feed it.

I really want one but they are pricey. No US distribution at this point. I have a big Hults Bruks en route to pacify me for now.

Yes, an offset underbuck to keep it from slabbing off.

I need to start using my axe to undercut. The more tools in the tool bag the better. 😁

Post it on crosscutsawyer.com or this FB site facebook.com/groups/Sawfilers/

Correct. It's precision work, but it's not rocket science.

I mostly hammer set. I set my teeth before filing them, but before I do either job, I profile and shape the teeth to reduce the flat jointing dot. Once set, I complete the final point up. This is an extra step, but it's how I file a saw.

@@PATCsawyer thats exactly what I intent to do. Thanks a lot for your time.

I prefer to use an Anderson gauge with its sloping filing plate. That model gauge will give you an exact and reproducible edge and height. When using a flat topped raker gauge, there is no slope to the cut and you are left with a shiny flat spot atop the raker which can be thinned as you final-shape the raker. If you file away all of the flat spot, how do you know if you've filed too far? If you file past the shiny edge, you will probably cut the raker lower than you wanted.

@@PATCsawyer Ok, now I get it. So it is rather for the purpose of being sure I did not overfile it. Someone somewhere mentioned it could also strenghten the edge a bit.

@@johnytwo I've never broken a raker while sawing, but I also don't thin my rakers to a wire edge.

Many crosscut saw tools can be home made if you're handle with tools, though the raker gauge would need a hardened filing plate. I joint my saws every time I file them, but after the first jointing, I don't need to take them down much. If your saw is a flat plate, I'd file set the teeth at 0.015" and the rakers at 0.010". Those are pretty basic settings. I'd set the teeth on the taper-ground saw at 0.010". Slightly overfilled (low) rakers are more forgiving than unfiled (high) rakers, though your saw will not cut smoothly if your rakers are all different heights.

@@PATCsawyer thanks for such a prompt reply. Should I file down the left raker tip to be the same hight as the overfiled right raker tip, or better leave it as it is?

@@johnytwo It depends on how much lower it is and how many are different. If just a few thousands, leave it alone. If the settings are all over the place, rejoint it and use the lesson as practice.

The "dot" is actually much smaller than the period at the end of a sentence, but is still a microscopic flat spot at the tip of the cutter. The little reflection tells you that the cutter tooth is still at the original jointed length. If you file past the dot, you have no way of knowing how much shorter the tooth is relative to all the others. A short tooth will just ride along, not do much cutting (severing of wood fibers) and contribute to "whiskered" noodles, which occur when the raker peels out unsevered fibers.

@@PATCsawyer thanks for your very informative and prompt reply.

Typically, an M-tooth saw has a gullet between each M. The points on each M are set in the same direction and alternate with each adjacent M. Google "Tuatahi work saw" and look at the images.

@@PATCsawyer Thank you so much