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Hi! I don't own these anymore, but I did note in the description that they are mushy. I'd be wary of these switches.

I appreciate the kind words!

I would air on the side of caution as this is definitely meant for Japanese-style levers (and, therefore, size). OTTO DIY has a new Korean lever that is compatible with Japanese sticks. I have the DIY V2, and it's pretty nice! Now they have a proper rubber grommet, so that's even better. Cheers!

@@JadedJawnee Thank you so much!

hypekeyboards.ca/ and use the Milan plate file! I have a coupon code in the description. Cheers!

You're too nice mate. I've been enjoying your latest builds too! 😄

Hey! I'm glad someone else tried out UHMWPE. I never thought of trying it in a TKL.

It's such a shame it's discontinued. I wonder when they'll release polished Milky Yellows ever again. I suppose broken-in Milky Yellows is the closest we'll get!

Hi! The default PCB for the Omni indeed has no good R3 or L3, but if you do the Brook UFB Fusion conversion, I did have two of the back buttons for R3 and L3 in practice mode. Then the remaining two I made start and select IIRC. I hope this helps!

I prefer the Ink build because I seldom hear Ink builds that sound as good as this! The novelty is working on me. Even the Inks on POM for the Hiro didn't last as I returned to Cherry switches. I don't feel like rebuilding this one at all, haha.

Hi! I believe I put it in the description, but these are Wyse Vintage Blacks. Thank you for the kind words! :D

@@JadedJawnee oh right it's there! missed it when i was reading it initially my bad and thanks for replying xD

@@poinggg No worries! I know it's super easy to miss. 😄

If only Ink V2s were more consistent. I think many have a bad leaf tick or something that turned them off from the switch.

@@JadedJawnee dated pricing is also a big turnoff compared to newer offerings. Even oil kings, the half child, are cheaper than ink v2s.

Thanks, Fly!!

I called it mushroom gray.

Fly calls it Mushroom Grey, but it reminds me a lot of brown with grey infused into it.

TY Goat. 😄

That sentiment is so valid. 65% of keyboards are very common nowadays, so I can understand it. I'm glad you enjoyed the sound test, though, mate!

Thanks for the kind words, Verse! Agreed that this combination is a killer. 😩

Thank you, Grant!!

No, you. 😳

Aw, thanks, man. I'm amazed at how much the sound changes with the plate. It's something I'm not honestly used to. I thought I built it wrong, but that's how it is. 😄

It's nice to see you again in the comments, haha. I'll post a few more tests this week and then have to hibernate until the F1-8X V2 comes in. Also, I know, right? I wrote these off because of the Hiro sound test, but they might not fare well in gasket-mount boards. This top-mount and/or aluminum plate really make them shine.

@@JadedJawnee looking forward to the f1-8x v2 soundtests! any idea of what build configs you were gonna do for the f1?

@@oakerface95 I think I'm leaning towards Nixies on PP! It sounded great in the 7V, so I'm gonna try that.

😩👀😩

They needed a good board to make them shine! :D

💀

Hi! If I'm reading this correctly, then you should be fine. The collar does more so with its width and whether it fits inside the arcade stick. It's been a while since I dived into levers though. The Korean one is the biggest circle, so it should be compatible with everything. However, if you want the plexiglass to perfectly match the width of the plastic ring, then getting a Japanese plexiglass from Focus Attack wouldn't hurt, and it's cheap! I hope this helps you.

@@JadedJawnee ty

Hey! That's awesome to hear. These are unique without foam, so I'm glad you enjoy them. Too many Hippos are thrown into foamed builds and lose their specialness.

I agree! These bang in-person.

Thanks for the kind words! From what I recall, only one foam piece from the video I saw covered them. I used this link to disassemble, remove the foam, and reassemble: ruclips.net/video/NRGzo7QzmkQ/видео.htmlsi=0O0WUxEknpEJ2W1t&t=315. It's very plug-and-play! I didn't need a tool to do it, and my fingers worked just fine to pop apart the mechanism. Tweezers do help with shimmying the foam out, but even a toothpick or something similar would work. The sound is much louder. It's basically Sanwa-level volume, if you like that. I like the sound level of Sanwa because it feels like a proper arcade stick, but some people need it quiet, which is why I appreciate the flexibility of the button. Hope this helps! I haven't played Tekken 8 as much due to life getting in the way, but I love both Omni set-ups. I've ultimately used the Knee Neo Lever because I'm more consistent with my inputs using that lever.

I honestly have no clue. From what I can last remember, I think so, but you'd be better off asking on their Discord!

@@JadedJawnee ah alright ty

@@JadedJawneewhere can I find the discord?

@@chocho563 discord.gg/Bjdgf3vz

Yes, this is the Kalam aluminum plate. I've heard people have better luck using other aluminum plates, but YMMV. Cheers!

@@JadedJawnee Thanks! Also, where did you put the poly-fil? Under the pcb?

@@redwanahmd Yes. It's the same area as you would put case foam for a standard board. Hope this helps!

It's definitely one of the best. Keebscape has more sound tests with the Kohaku and different plate materials. I hope this helps!

Hey!! Congrats on the Hiro and Clears combo. Geon Stem Trimmers were on sale for Divinikey, so you don't have to sacrifice them! Maybe you can ask when the next restock is or hunt for one on the aftermarket?

@@JadedJawnee haha yeah ill get one eventually.btw how did u forcebreak your hiro,im saving the clears for when i get a stem trimmer for now its gat cream sodas on pom

@@Kaarage24 That combo is a banger. For the force break, focus on the four screw mounting points. Link: imgur.com/awKMtEk You can use tape or scissors to trim a stabilizer pad (what I did) to achieve that effect. Cheers!

Yeah! If you want DIY, go watch RUclips tutorials. They're excellent. This is also a great place! It's where I got my other artwork from: www.reddit.com/r/freefightstickart/

Yes.

@@JadedJawnee could you describe the differences?

@@cuongnguyenngoc4023 PP = Higher-pitched, poppier, doesn't take away the character of the switch. PC = More subtle, deeper, and deadens the character of the switch (great for foam, not foamless, in my opinion). PP is the better PC for non-foam builds.

Thanks for the kind words! You unscrew the weight, and around the screw holes, you can apply tape or a stabilizer pad, and that'll work. Because it's a circle, apply tape in the North, South, East, and West directions (4 directions for each screw hole). Surprisingly, even weights and their screw points can introduce weird noises. I've begun to force-break weights in the event I notice resonance.

@@JadedJawnee oh. just around the screws is enough? Would you be able to share a picture for reference, whenever possible. If it's not too much trouble. :)

@@ClackConnoisseur Good point. I used stabilizer pads, so that was enough, but if you use tape, use this Unikorn thing I did for a reference. Go around the edges and across the middle if using tape! Link: imgur.com/a/unikorn-force-break-on-weight-BgWAT5P

@@JadedJawnee Thanks, I'll try this :)

I think these are the V1 with the heavier spring. I hope this helps! I haven't tried the V2 yet.

I've heard from others that mine is small, but I found this size is best for me, haha. I'd much rather have more hard desk space for papers and writing. 😄

@@JadedJawnee That depends a lot on the person, I am a gamer and I need at least 400x400

@@CoQuiTiTo, it is definitely valid for that purpose. I know you need tons of space for FPS games!

I don't, if I read this correctly.

I'd say no. I really enjoy the Milky tops, haha.

@@JadedJawnee what about cap milky yellows? would you take them over regular milky pros

@@Raptor-ln2mr Hmmm... given that Cap Milky Yellows are nearly 4 years old, I would go with the most modern Milky Yellow switch. I feel like there's a new one every year. I even have the Gateron X switches as my personal batch of Milky Yellows.

@@JadedJawnee what about sound wise? i heard that cap switches sound deeper and poppier than regular switches

@@Raptor-ln2mr@ Raptor-ln2mr It's been so long since I've had the Cap switches, but I remember them being slightly fuller because of the Nylon top. I hope this helps!

Thanks for the kind words! Nowadays, you can undoubtedly get an excellent board for cheap. Don't be discouraged.

We love light tactiles! I'm glad to hear you found the switches you like.

Hey! I don't have the board anymore, so I can't, but if you do a force break, it'll sound great.

I suggest looking on the Mechmarket subreddit or Discord for the Kalamkorns. If you want to try one, they're going for MSRP now!

:( Really sorry to hear about that experience, mate. I'm unsurprised that a Gateron switch (especially an older one) might fare best with hand-lubing. Having it worse from the factory, though, is not good.

Thank you, Oak!!!

That's super smart! I hope others who attempt this mod see this comment.

Poly-fill is so GOATed, especially for o-ring mods since they cannot use foam! Thanks for the kind words man. :D

@@JadedJawnee yep i use polyfil occasionally as well but these days I really try not to add anything to the board if i don't have too. But the Cield65 does definitely needs some help, did you tape mod it as well?

@@versecurated Nah, I didn't use tape-mod for the Ciel65. Also, try force-breaking the weight!

@@JadedJawnee wow just tried it and it's lit! thanks! I was about to put my ciel65 up for sale... now I can hold on to it a bit longer lol

Thanks, mate! I'm really happy these switches sounded okay in this build. It struggled so much without foam, but I'm glad it's okay with foam.

Hi! I have used the same hot-swap PCB since my first sound test with the Hiro. I'm surprised it has lasted this many swaps, but I have sometimes had to use tweezers to push the inside pins tighter. Luckily, no catastrophic failures are a testament to the durability of hot-swap PCBs (when made well and treated with care). In terms of sound, I do not notice a considerable difference personally, but you could make an argument for feeling. There is something about solder PCBs and how they have a very "solid" feeling because the switches are locked in place with the solder. Newer hot-swap sockets are much tighter, and some can work plateless because of that (emulating the solder solidity). I hope this helps!