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@@KishinClips I am glad to hear that! I hope it all works out.

@@RichLifeStories thank you! I appreciate you more than you know 🙌🏽

Your welcome 👍

If you have a manual civic, get a friend to sit in the car and push in the clutch, jump the starter at the positive terminal on the starter to the terminal on the starter, if your car doesn't start, it's the starter, if it does, there's a clutch safety on the back of the clutch that can go bad, it's like a little rubber ball that opens the circuit when the clutch is pressed in, unplug that harness and put a paperclip in and it'll bypass that rubber ball if it's broken, hopefully you've already solved your issue though!

Remember to always push the clutch in when starting though because if you jump the connection with a clip it'll start even if the clutch isn't engaged.

No it does not. It's a temporary fix. The issue is how long will this patch last. Mine only lasted a week before it started knocking again.

@@RichLifeStories So what is the correct way to fix it and for the knock to not return??

@@cincouno3314 I probably would have to take it to a machine shop to fix any clearance issues and on top of that a new crankshaft maybe needed depending on the damage. So what most people do, like myself, is just get another block That doesn't have bearing issues.

Yes that is exactly what I think caused it.

@@RichLifeStories doing my d17 engine on Gen 7 civic and I’m 0.10-0.15mm out of round. Trying to sand the sides that are sticking out for the new undersized bearings with 0.25mm and checking with plastigauge once it’s sanded down. Crankshaft needs to come out and be machined professionally at a shop from what I’ve seen but I’m trying to do it in my own without taking it out. Hopefully it works

It was the clutch pedal grommet. The grommet came apart

I'm happy to hear that! I wasn't for sure how much this video would help.

May have been a good idea to add assembly lube when installing the rod bearings. Did you replace the top crank bearing halves, or just the bottom?

The new rod bearings spun again So the repair for me only lasted a week. I will install a new engine soon. I just haven't had the time to do it.

@@RichLifeStories thank you

@@JGcynicDC2 No problem.

The new rod bearings spun again So the repair for me only lasted a week. I will install a new engine soon. I just haven't had the time to do it.

Yes!!! I don't know why they put that bolt there. It's the most inconvenient spot And it just doesn't make sense.

The idea of the break away bolts is an anti theft measure. If two regular bolts were used trust me a ton more Honda's would be stolen.

@@TheJohnnyef9 I didn't think about that scenario. Thank you for bringing this to our attention.

I appreciate it 🙏.

I just posted Part 2 today. Long story short the fix worked for about a week (about 500 miles) and then it started knocking again. I already brought a spare engine just in case it didn't work out, which in this case it didn't.

I am happy to hear that!

Yea it's an issue I didn't see coming

I just finished the job Saturday. It took me a while to get to it due to life duties. I tried to film as much as I could but it was my first time doing that job so it's not going to be the best video out there. Long story short, no more knocking and the car drives very well! I will try to post the video this weekend.

Haha 😆 yea may be you just need a valve adjustment

Same bro my 98 civic burns oil pretty bad but it’s knocking right now and it don’t say it’s low.. needs a change bad

I'm glad this video helped!!

Glad I am not the only one. Took me a couple of years to realize that.

I’ve used Fram filters on my Hondas, they work fine. I wouldn’t use the cheapest orange filter because I run my oil intervals anywhere between 5K - 7K miles, so the Fram Tough Guard or Ultra Synthetic work fine in this application.

Even the orange filter works OK if you only use it for 3K miles.

I usually use Mobil 1 Oil Filter M1-110A1, but I couldn't find any near by. I change my oil every 3K mile so it may not matter in this case.

​@@carlovanrijk4039 the one you are talking about is the orange can of doom which is the one shown on this video. I have used the silver and gold can. Had no issues. The gold one is almost comparable to the Mobil 1 filter from what I've seen

Yes, I did the timing belt, water pump, Hydraulic Tensioner, idler pulley, and Tensioner Bearing; sometime in March 2021. Unfortunately, I don't have that video. At the time that was the first time I ever did that job and I was not very knowledgeable doing that job. The Acura TL is a great car!

Hey just seen a video about Changing the timing belt. if you need it check it out! ruclips.net/video/I48-w0N_MWU/видео.html

Thank you I have changed the title and pinned your comment.

You might want to replace your oil pump while you are in there and make sure when you take the rod caps off drag your finger nail across the crank journal if you can feel it catch your nail you should just go buy a junk yard engine and just replace the engine or take it to a machine shop and have them fix it otherwise it will spin the bearing as soon as you start the engine rhe first time

@@gabbybridgetndanieldunne443 I have a D16Y8 ready to drop in just in case. I will check the crank once I remove the rod caps. Thank you for all the information!

I'm sorry to hear that. I had a hard time choosing what part to go with because like you said each brand has its own issues when it comes to the tensioner. I didn't go with Gates because the reviews are so bad. Deyco also has some bad reviews but for the most part it wasn't as bad as Gates. Thank you for commenting!! I hope this helps others as well!

I bought the Continental belt tensioner for $60. It had good reviews. We will have to see how it does over the long run.

It took me about that long to figure it out. I'm so glad this helped you resolve your issue! That's the purpose of me posting these videos. 🙏

Usually that code is caused by a failure in one of the elements that heat the oxygen sensors, specifically bank 1 sensor 2. Basically meaning your O2 sensor isn't heating up properly to bring it to normal operational temperature. I'm not a mechanic but there are videos that show you how to test an O2 sensor. More than likely you have a bad O2 sensor.

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