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Hi, according to ChatGPT the Canon version is called Highlight Tone Priority (HTP). HDR and Bracketing techniques take consecutive photos which is undesirable given anything that moves will look weird when stitching together multiple photos!

Agreed that the exposure should look realistic! Often that means to underexpose as the light meter tends to get fooled by the scene😆

It depends on the kit lens you use. But generally, primes are significantly better, especially on higher resolution sensors that kit lenses usually not fully resolve! But sharpness tends to be a bit overrated and the brighter aperture makes a more significant difference IMO☺️

Thanks so so much for the kind words!🙏🏻

Thanks for your comment! I wouldn't necessarily call exposing for the highlights a "correct exposure" either because it implies that you underexpose your shadows. We actually had quite engaging discussions in the comment section on what "underexposing" or "correctly exposing" actually means. And there was no clear answer, so feel free to check it out!😉

Thanks so much, Glad I could help!☺️

Thanks so much for that huge praise!☺️ Glad the video was helpful!😊

Thanks so much my friend!🙏🏻

Well we could have gone more extreme... how about 16mm and 90mm lol But great setup!☺️

Says you!

@@jeffreyolson2139 He's correct, but his explanation isn't the best. My advice is from Peter Eastway, grand master photographer. Always aim for the best technical exposure, in this way you minimise digital noise. If you want that dark look, do it in your photo editting software.

The problem is that the ‚best technical exposure’ is always linked to compromises… yes, more light and properly exposed shadows will be cleaner as if raised in post but in the context of this video, this comes at the expense of highlight information!

Exactly! One of the great things I love about Fujifilm cameras is the dynamic range option to preserve highlights is amazing

Thanks for the little comparison to film! Very interesting!☺

@@ChillyCrispin Agreed, I feel like mentioning them in one way or another in all my videos, kinda repetitive lol

Proper (digital) exposure is just short of blowing the highlights. Google ETTR.

Haha feel you regarding the 80% low light proportion... I live in a place where it happens to be dark for the majority of time and it really makes for great photos! I'm very glad to hear the tips were helpful!☺️

Thanks for your feedback Stefan! I could have clarified what I mean by underexposing: underexposing relative to the camera‘s metering in a semi-automatic mode. One could argue that in reality what I do is not ‚underexposing‘ but exposing correctly. But at the same time, I do not necessarily ‚expose correctly‘ if I expose for the highlights making all my shadows darker than they are in reality. The sunny day you described where you would overexpose, assuming it is a sunset, I would probably expose for the highlights, so yes, I ‚correctly‘ expose for the highlights but my shadows are likely to be underexposed. Do you see what I mean? Often ‚correctly exposing‘ for one means underexposing another. But underexposing can also just mean to turn your exposure compensation dial to a negative number. I think you have a good point that some of the arguments I make in the video can also be considered to properly expose. While on the other hand, I stylistically underexpose a scene to obscure unwanted shadow detail, which you would probably agree to that this is underexposing. So our discussion, (while truly interesting, seriously!) is rather conceptual than practical! I‘m an academic so in my papers I bore people with theory during the first ten pages, that‘s how it is. In a RUclips video I do not conceptualise what I personally mean by underexposing because it is not what people are looking for. Rather, they look for practical guidance for better photos and I hopefully succeeded at that! Thanks for watching and the debate on underexposing, it really illuminates that what underexposing means is not as straight forward as I thought it was!☺️

@@pithaupert Hey, thanks for the detailed reply! All good points. I think the problem is that our eyes (or our brains) have a higher dynamic range than cameras. So we have to make a choice what to expose for. When you say yo expose correctly for your highlights, you essentially underexpose the shadows, this is true. Our own eyes see more details in these shadows than a properly exposed camera. When I talked about the sunny scenario in which you would compensate upwards, I did not mean a sunset. A sunset I would always "underexpose". I was referring to bright sunlight reflecting of bright surfaces (like sand) or snow. This comes out grey if you don't "overexpose". But, essentially, it matters much less on a digital camera, because you can just recover underexpusere in post. Those of us who learned on film had to expose much more carefully. In any case, fascinating subject 🙂

@@StefanBeyer Agree on the sunny scenario then! I do also overexpose in these conditions! Thanks for the discussion☺

@@pithaupert I don't use the camera's meter because there's no setting that gets it right. Instead I use the histogram, blinkies and zebra stripes depending on the camera.

@@pithaupert If your camera can't cover the tonal range, then you need to learn to bracket your exposures and blend them later.

Thanks for commenting! It is truly interesting that you are already the second person to comment on the chroma noise part in which I show a very very extreme case of underexposure. You are right that extreme underexposure and overexposure is bad! But often you can underexpose moderately (as you do!) which allows you to not blow out your highlights while keeping your shadows recoverable. In the end, it‘s really all a matter of preference. I know incredible photographers who expose for the shadows while completely blowing out the sky and they don‘t give a single damn!😆 So what I say in the video is at best a guidance you may follow but don‘t have to! Thanks for watching!☺️

Dear Arian, in the video I make a quick reference to ETTR which is very useful to properly expose a scene that has no high dynamic range (e.g. no bright highlights and no dark shadows). The problem about ETTR is that you tend to overexpose the bright highlights that are irrecoverable in post since highlight recovery can be very limited. Often these highlights do not even show up on your histogram. While ETTR gives you very very clean shadows, it risks to blow out very bright spots of light, especially in low-light photography. ETTR and underexposure coexist but one should be mindful when to use one over the other! Hope that helps!

@@pithaupert I can see how ETTR is a risk if you tend to miss overexposure on the histogram or don't have real-time blinkies (looking at you Canon). I personally never have a problem with that so ETTR works better in my situation. Thanks for elaborating on this.

@@arianvangend2536 Yeah just do whatever has proven to work best for you in practice! But at the same time, it is always good to extend one's horizon with other methods even when they might not necessarily be of practical use most of the time!

Yes, basically ETTR with ISO as low as possible and the necessary aperture and time to achieve your desired effect. Basically gather as much physical light as you can, then adjust exposure in post. That way you maximize signal to noise, thus getting as clean an image as possible

@@pithaupert Done correctly, ETTR does not blow out highlights. If you are using the camera's meter, you are not ETTR.

Thanks for the constructive feedback! I could have clarified from what exposure I underexpose from. I underexpose a scene based on what the camera would consider a proper exposure in a semi-automatic mode in which the light meter tends to overexpose. Although it becomes clear through out the video, I could have more clearly stated what exposure I am starting from. How to properly expose a scene is a great topic for a future video!😉

@@pithaupert I have yet to see a camera that has any idea of what a good technical exposure is. Some of my cameras can show me before I press the button what's under exposed, what's over exposed. That is all the information needed to decide whether to bracket exposure and how many images are needed.

Thanks so much!☺️ Yeah I think both ETTR and Underexposure have a place but choose wisely🤪

Thanks for sharing your thoughts and the feedback! I know some cameras have a highlight metering mode which could be useful too! I see why you would spot meter the highlights but is your metering point tied to your autofocus point?

@@pithaupertWith highlight metering, the strongest highlights are protected, so not necessarily the ones you want to protect. Especially in night photography highlight-metering falls short imo. Personally I still use exposure comp with overexposure warnings (blinking) enabled. But if you use spot-metering you would probably do it by binding AE-L to a button: - Aim at brightest area you *want to preserve” - Press AE-Lock button - Focus, frame etc.

@@RegrinderAlert Thanks for the insights on highlight metering! I do not own a camera that has that feature. AE Lock might help to overcome the spot meter and focus box coupling issue!

Thanks so much!☺️ Yeah there is probably no way around underexposing in urban environments! I tried to be moderate with my underexposing advice but yeah sometimes -2 EV or more is required to get the scene to realistic to what you actually saw!😉

Thanks sm Timo! That‘s a great addition!☺️ I never really questioned why the meter struggles in certain conditions but just took it as a fact that it does struggle🤪 Now brands need to release dedicated night and snow metering modes lol

Thanks for your comment! In minute seven, I highlight an extreme example of what happens when you severely underexpose a scene, especially with an already high ISO of 2000. As expected, extreme shadow recovery looks bad! That’s why I recommend underexposing within reason: primarily to preserve highlights, compensate for a camera’s tendency to overexpose, or achieve a particular style. If you limit your underexposure to about one stop and later lift the shadows moderately, the resulting noise amplification is manageable in my experience. Of course, some sensors handle this better than others. I shoot with an excellent APS-C sensor that I’d say roughly compares to what most viewers use, meaning the noise penalty from lifting shadows after reasonable underexposure is acceptable.

I saw you edited your comment. Edit 1: The reason why ETTR does not work in high contrast scenes is because you have bright highlights and dark shadows. So by exposing to the right, you do not actually expose to the right very much because you immediately clip highlights. Additionally, the very bright highlights might not even be visible on the histogram meaning that you unintentionally clip them even when the histogram tells you they are properly exposed. Edit 2: I agree with you that amplifying shadows in post will give you similar results to what these shadows would have looked like if you had exposed them in camera at a higher ISO. However, properly exposing shadows in-camera will automatically also increase highlights making them blow out and irrecoverable due to the higher ISO limiting your DR even further (unless you use DR settings). So usually underexpose giving me the best compromise between shadow and highlight recovery albeit at the expense of some more grain in the shadows.

Ah too bad I couldn't introduce you to a new accessory! But glad we align!😉

Hi Mark, glad you‘re liking the channel! I love the X-T5, it‘s a fun, good looking and capable camera with a good sensor benefitting from a large selection of lenses. The autofocus concerns are justified to the extent that it‘s not on the same level as the competition (e.g. Sony Canon). The key problems are that it is hard to get it to consistently track one specific face if there is more faces in the frame. Additionally, it occasionally gets lost when the subject is covered up for a brief moment, by a bush for instance. In these cases where I know the algorithms might have a hard time, I focus my X-T5 with a singe autofocus point in AF-C, completely ignoring the faulty face and eye tracking algorithms that make people complain. For me personally, the benefits outweigh the costs and I get my camera to focus predicably. Does it matter to you? It depends. If you are a demanding professional sports photographer this is not the camera for you. But if you would just like to take some great photos of your family, it‘s great for that too! And even for more demanding tasks it gets the job done! I am currently planning a video on autofocus that is not just criticism but a constructive assessment with solutions to overcome the problem. If you want, you can specify what your use case is for me to give more specific advice! Thanks for watching!

@ hi I want the camera for travel , street and documentary also taking pics of grandchildren so nothing to demanding, but I think I’ve watched to much negativity!! I was going to get the Sony a7cii instead but I know it will not be so much fun , so I can’t make my mind up at the moment, I had xt2 years ago and loved using it , then went to Nikon but there’s more pleasure using Fuji many thanks

@@marcoshea4868 I see it‘s no task that would require the best autofocus! Have you been okay with the autofocus on the X-T2? Because it did improve quite substantially despite all the bad press these months… But the A7cii is a very nice camera too!

@ it was slow but very rewarding and a joy to use 👍

Oh yeah I see the benefits of the ball design! Great to hear that Peak Design is getting some competition since they are indeed very expensive! I still recommend them because I know they are reliable to hold my really expensive camera gear!🙈 Will look at Pgytech too for future accessories then😉

I‘m sorry about your shutter release button experience!🙈 I used quite a few by now but never lost one! But I really screwed them in as well as I could! I have lost hot shoe covers already though. The thumb grip is amazing and the least intrusive for sure! I just ordered one today for my x100 where a grip would hurt the compactness of the camera too much!😊 Thanks for watching!☺️

Thanks for sharing Alexii!☺️ I heard people complain about a creaking sound in their shutter release button, is that what you want to fix with the nail polish? It might help the community! From personal experience having used shutter buttons with and without the rubber ring, I have never had any issues! That‘s actually why I cropped out that section from the video!😆 Thanks so much for watching and sharing your experience!😊

@ My pleasure, I should have mentioned that the purpose of the clear nail polish is to provide enough adhesion so the soft shutter button won’t unscrew with constant use and most likely will fall off unnoticed. I said enough adhesion because with slight force, we can still remove the button should we want to remove or replace it. For this reason, industrial strength glue should be avoided.

not everything is about bokeh my friend ;)

I happen to take most of my photos in Vienna right now😉 Danke fürs Schauen!☺️

@ Danke fürs zeigen 👍🏻

Thanks for engaging! I like your approach to find fulfilment in your photography by engaging with your "subjects" on the street! It sounds so fun and alleviates also some of the paparazzi prejudice from our craft... You're right regarding the hashtags, they have also brought me diminishing returns too where the effort of putting them in does not bear fruits. You also bring in a key term of "oversaturation" the reason why I do not complain about the reach I get on Instagram is because there is simply too many photographers and a decreasing demand for photos with reels being the main thing that makes users stick to the platform...

@@pithaupert I think a lot of the bad rap street photography gets comes from the fact that, when confronted, some photographers dig their heels in & say "it's my RIGHT to take pictures in public!!" Even if that's technically true, is the photographer making some grand artistic statement if the person in their photo is uncomfortable? A few times I've had people tell me they didn't want their picture taken after I took a candid shot of them: I showed them the picture, they said they still weren't cool with it, I deleted it, and then they were happy. I don't think the ends of a good picture are justified by the means of ruining someone's day

@@then_comes_dudley True enough... yeah even if you insist on your rights, doesn't it have a bitter after-taste if your "subject" disapproved of the amazing photo you just took? I think we as photographers have a responsibility to be transparent about what we do and to also be able to show what we do. As you mentioned previously, I also find so much fulfilment in showing people what I do and often they are delighted when they see a photo of them and especially of their pets and they are eternally grateful when I send it to them!☺

That's great, seriously! Yet, I know many people who take/took Instagram way too seriously, me included!😂

@ I use to myself. But after years of downgrade algorithm in platform i just deleted my 100k account. I don't see the point to post if I can't answer to comments a like because do it more then 10 and you are temporary restricted for boting. What's the point of posting pictures if instagram decides who sees them and who not instead of showing all my followers.

No need to worry about cropping, just do it! Even after cropping you still have plenty resolution left! ;)

Thanks a lot! That's a great idea for a future video in which I edit some of my night photos! Thanks for watching☺

You are welcome!☺ It sounds very basic that you should create for yourself but in a world where we want to gain as much visibility as possible, the aspect of creating for yourself is often overlooked...

Yeah that‘s a valid concern you point out! I heard some bad experiences related to denoising on older or slower devices. In some cases, it took six years for the process to be done or the device really suffered as in your case😅 I occasionally take smooth denoising for granted so thanks for pointing it out!😅

Damn, that's a mouth full haha I'm happy to see my tiny 35mm mentioned ;) Do you use the Samyang AF or the MF? Heard it wouldn't cooperate well with Fuji's IBIS. Is that still a thing?😅

That 70-300 is really sweet too!

Thanks for your constructive comment! I like your healthy engagement with Instagram. Of course everything I say is just my own personal experience. I have taken Instagram way too seriously in the past as a "way to grow." So I did everything that might give me more likes and followers: 4:5 crops, trends and photos that have worked well in the past. There was a phase in which I literally went out to shoot for Instagram... crazy but I'm sure many can relate. Thanks for watching and commenting!😊

@ I hear you, Instagram was great for gaining some attention and getting followers back before they changed it. I guess my point is that, for me, trying to find motivation for my photography outside of social media has always been more useful. It’s a good topic and great tips 🤙🏼

@@HaiTomVlog Again, I love your attitude towards photography keeping the photography sphere independent from the Instagram sphere!😉 Thanks for the continued support!😊

The software used in this video is Lightroom CLASSIC. The Mobile version does not support denoising according to my knowledge! Hope that helps!☺️

Thanks so much Duncan!☺️ Yeah I love Fuji's double digit X-T cameras so I also inform my audience how they handle bigger lenses. And I'd argue it works, especially if you add a tiny hand grip to it as I did :)

Thanks so much for watching and for the kind comment!☺️

Ah shit... have you tried opening the aperture to f/1.2? Otherwise I might be forced to take down the video🤪

Great combo! The Viltrox lenses are the best optics I own... the reason why they did not show up in this video is because of their size!😅 That's where the Nikon combo wins😉

Seriously, Lightroom AI has made things so much easier. Previously, everyone obsessed about having the brightest f/1.4 lenses and full frame while now you can shoot on much darker and lighter lenses and still get away with it. However, Lightroom Denoise has limits too. If the original photo has so much noise that small details are being lost, denoise cannot perform miracles either. Thanks for watching!☺️

Nice setup! Can't tell if the 18mm is the best lens Fuji makes but it is definitely the best they make that I own🤪

Well first, glad the video was shown to you! And second, thanks so much for watching!☺️

You are absolutely right that the general trend today is to get rid of the noise as much as possible. However, I feel like there is also a counter-reaction to that trend when I see that many people shoot on very high-sensitivity film rolls, for instance. At the end of the video I also briefly mention that a bit of noise does not hurt the image but can even add to it! Thanks so much for watching!☺

Yes, you got it! Let‘s say you have a 35mm full frame lens: So you shoot at a shutter speed of 1/70s with your aperture being fixed at f/2. Your ISO is on auto and the only remaining variable that can still change. If your exposure compensation is at +0, the camera will adjust the ISO to ISO 3200 (fictional) which is the value that it thinks will properly expose the scene. Since the ISO is on AUTO and the camera often overexposes the scene by chosing a higher ISO than necessary, you can reduce the ISO by using exposure compensation. In the video, I recommend an exposure compensation of -1 which forces the camera to shoot at an ISO of 1600 effectively a full stop darker and closer to reality. So your final settings in the fictional example with exposure compensation applied would be: 1/70s f/2 ISO 1600

@ Ah! I get it now!! They should have called it iso compensation. Would have been more logical to the average person 😉. Subscribed 📸

@@1010AllOne Yeah ISO compensation might be easier to understand ;) The reason why it is not called that way is because the camera "compensates exposure" with whatever setting is set to auto. So it could be ISO that is affected by exposure compensation but it could also be your shutter speed or even your aperture if you put them in an auto setting! Thanks so much for the support!☺

@@pithaupert Okay that makes sense too. Did you study photography at college or university?

@@1010AllOne No, I am a self-taught photographer! I got 95% of my knowledge from youtube and now I feel like I need to give some of it back☺

@@smooth111012 That‘d be great! I‘d love to try one!

Valid question! Yes, the exposure triangle stays exactly the same no matter the size of your sensor. The only differences are that shooting wide open would possibly give you blurrier backgrounds on full frame at the same aperture. Additionally, the ISO will probably look a bit cleaner at the same ISO value. I hope that helps! Feel free to ask if you have further questions!😊 Thanks for watching!

@ I’m sorry don’t understand your answer. If you have a full frame sensor then equation is focal length x 2 = Shutter speed. If you have an APSC sensor is it exactly the same or de we need to assume the focal length is 1.5x and then use that number in the equation? I have an APSC sensor and 18mm lens. Is my equation 18 x 2? Or is it 27 x 2? (Because 18x1.5 is 27)

@@1010AllOne Oh, I see now-great question! To get an accurate result, you need to calculate the full-frame equivalent focal length before applying the formula. Why is that? Because an 18mm lens on APS-C effectively crops the wider field of view of a full-frame sensor, making any motion blur appear more pronounced. In essence, the narrower field of view magnifies the effect. I hope that helps!

@ perfect!!