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Double check it’s not an E12 if you haven’t already. But definitely a tight fit. Good luck!

What steps did you take to fix cooling? I just installed a CSF radiator and I’m hoping this solves my issues for next season. Thanks for the tyre recommendation, I will check them out. I’ve been using the PS4s as my daily tires that I can also use at the track, but am definitely looking for a dedicated set of wheels.

@@BYOMotorsport The CSF Radiator helps a lot but I also installed a much larger Oil Cooler with fan.

Yes, car runs great

@BYOMotorsport awesome. I'm running this setup and I've been getting some dips in pressure. so chasing my tail trying to figure out why. it's intermittent though

@@dextershumba7262 might be the original pump failing. Now that there’s two in series there’s always a possibility the original pump goes out

@@BYOMotorsport Thanks man! the LPFP was new as well, oh well, will have to try out a new one and see!

For daily driving these are great coils. Very comfortable and I’ve had no issues. I’ve found on the track the spring rates are quite soft. I end up scraping a lot on turns because of this. If you plan on tracking a lot, I would look into the swift spring upgrade for these coilovers.

Would definitely recommend for street driving. Very comfortable on soft settings and can get a lot stiffer My only issue with them is the spring rates are a bit too low for track use. I find myself scraping a lot

@@BYOMotorsport did you have the ones with the revised rear spring rates Mio1? I Guess they are tuned for a bit more on the comfort side

@@M5tubee my issue is with the front springs more so. But apparently if you upgrade them to stiffer springs they’re too strong for the struts and adjusting them doesn’t make a difference anymore Unsure if I have the updated ones

That would probably cause a pretty bad fuel leak

Definitely depends on how you adjust the suspension. I would say at max height an inch lower and lowest two inches. Hard to say as it has been awhile since I installed these. I have the fronts as low as they go and I definitely scrape a lot

The spark plugs will not ignite so no, it would not start. Also if they were to ignite, I don’t think 10psi wouldn’t be enough to rotate the crank.

18x8.5, ET35 255/35 with a 5mm spacer

Yes, the purpose of installing this pump is to supply more fuel to the car for additional power. Without a tune I doubt it would be a noticeable decrease in fuel efficiency however.

On 91 you will need port injection for that kind of power.

Hard to say, I don’t think a hand pump would push out enough air to pressurize the entire system in the time that it depressurizes. You could maybe try a cordless tire inflator? Not entirely sure. Try seeing if you can rent an air compressor from harbor freight or home depot

@@BYOMotorsport makes sense. I didn’t know you could rent one. Hope this helps me find my leak

@@black_n5492 I would check online or call somewhere to double check, I’m sure you can find one to rent locally

@@BYOMotorsport oh yea. Already found a Home Depot close to me that has one for tomorrow. Thanks again for a very helpful video

@@BYOMotorsport and taking time out to respond

For stage 1 yes, wiring is required.

That is a bullet tap in/splice connector www.qualitydist.net/pico-1580pt.html?viewfullsite=1

Thanks

Another question, please, I bought the almost new second-hand pump, but it does not have the small black part that it puts on after drilling, is that totally necessary? What is the use of doing that and in any case where could I get it?

@@luiscarlosmontanosaenz7717 That is the pump retainer clip. Essentially without that clip your pump will freely hang in your fuel tank. This could potentially cause problems if your taking hard turns putting stress on the pump connections. If your pump came without one I would look for different options regarding securing the new pumps position so it’s not just sitting on its own in the fuel tank.

ok I understand it is to hold the new pump so I guess it has to hold to the bottom of the white bottle of the oem pump

3:48 You can see here still caught around a tablespoon of oil a few days after installation

To my knowledge yes. The 255 runs in series with the stock lpfp, whereas the 450 replaces the stock pump entirely. I’m pretty sure the 450 requires a change in your tune also whereas the 255 runs as normal.

@@BYOMotorsport I run a stage 2.5 which is a bucketed walbro 535. No need for tune but when you start upgrading fueling you'll want a tune, even an ots tune, so you can get the most out of your money.

From what I've read, this pump actually restricts the flow of the 450 and is not supposed to be run in line with a 450. This pump runs inline with stock pump.

@@dextershumba7262 correct. It is not meant to be ran with a upgraded pump only stock fuel pump

@@nateh8664 are you running an upgraded EKP with the walbro 535 or is the stock one holding up fine?

My first track day was in around 80° weather, I had the oem oil cooler and a 5” stepped intercooler. Heat soak was pretty bad, was down a lot of power. Oil temps were hitting 295°+ so I would do cooldown laps to avoid hitting limp mode. The two fixes I’ve done that have helped so far are installing the 7.5” racing fmic, which drastically kept down IATs. The second fix was pretty funny, I rerouted my windshield sprayer line to a nozzle that sprays my oil cooler and I just fill the reservoir with water. I then pulled the fuses for the windshield wipers and headlight sprayers. Was a $10 project. Planning on making a video on this in the next few months. After doing this, during a 90º track day the car was much faster with the new intercooler and I never saw oil temps climb over 280º. Whenever I would approach the 280º mark I would spray the oil cooler and it would drops temps ~5º or keep them stable. As I get more track time my laps will definitely become faster and get the car hotter. What I have planned is to install a larger 25 row oil cooler and the CSF radiator and perhaps a transmission cooler. I had installed a larger oil cooler but the lines were unsafely low quality so I removed it and plan to reinstall it this summer. I believe the lower temperature thermostat is an unnecessary mod as when you get on the track your oil temps will climb and open it fully anyways. (Opens fully at 235ºf i believe) All this would effect is the time it takes for your car to warm up. Keeping the stock thermostat is good for daily driving and the track. Meth injection isn't the best route, especially with track use. I've heard numerous stories of hydro-locked engines due to unreliable injection which keeps me away. A better method may be getting a custom tune made for an E30 mixture. This will be safer for the track with the octane boost and will have the engine run cooler. Planning on making some videos on cooling and track updates within the next few months so stay tuned 👍

Figure it out I’m getting a 30ff in high rpm range and like 3rd or 4th have little To no wastegate rattle new to bmws So it’s a learning experience not too complicated just expensive parts and abunch of plastic parts that break too east and wear out too quick 🤦‍♂️

You can definitely feel the majority of bumps on the road but it's rather soft and not uncomfortable.

Only other N54 car I've seen on the track was a stock 135i. He was doing pretty good and wasn't dealing with overheating unlike me lol

You'll need the two adjustment hooks in order to change the height. Once you have those, take off the wheel, loosen the lock nut on the spring perch then raise or lower the height depending on what you want.

Wow. You definitely scored on that buy!

@@JacesOwnWorld yeah man i definitely got lucky with this one. car came with the ohlins coil overs, enkei wheels, m3 control arms, fbo, stage 2 lpfp, new index 12 injectors, carbon trunk and hood, m sport bumpers, and a stop tech big brake kit. got the car for 6grand with interior stripped out but got everything for the interior at a nearby pick n pull for 300$ and she’s a beauty now!

I’m glad it was helpful!