Видео

Fully agreed. I did try to compress the sic but i had used too much epoxy. It works but not as good as it should. Cheers

Thanks a lot. 🍺

12:05 you can see a summary different criteria. I would go with B44.

@@WoodfulProjects Thanks for the reply! Will try it.

Well. Did stabilize multiple times with this method and so far, I’m still using the same equipment. Btw I purchased the vacuum chamber + pump 70€. This is basically the price of 1,5L of Cactus Juice. I let you do the math and have your own conclusion.

Thanks ☺️. I would definitely recommend it. Very stable. The wood is very forgiving whatever I do on it (stains, hits, cuts, etc). I have another pine workbench and honestly I prefer definitely the meranti one. Cheers

Thanks for watching.

🙄?

Well, I did add much more than what I initially added. All the ratios are shown in a summary at the end of the video. But indeed the more you add the more difficult it will be to dissolve. One thing to keep in mind is that you don’t want to add too much otherwise the consistency is too thick and thus won’t penetrate the wood deep enough. Curious to have a feedback on your results. Cheers

Hey again. Wow, thanks for the reply! I didnt expect one that fast. I am in my shop now trying to get more to dissolve. Im certain its near complete saturation, so i will be trying my first stabilization today and will definitely report back. I work mostly with .5x2x6 inch blanks for tool and knife handles. The shapes are different from pen blanks but i imagine they will react in a similar way. Now, if i can get my freshly dyed blanks to not warp while drying ill really be good to go. Happy turning, friend.

@@Belows682the only piece of advice I could give is to be careful with the acetone vapors. As you saw in the video, it is very corrosive for the acrylic lid so I’ll let you imagine what it could do to the lungs. Happy exploration in the world of stabilizing and see you next time. Cheers

Hi, this is stabilizing resin, it is used to stabilize wood (either punky wood or just wood in general). Once stabilized, the wood does rot anymore as all the pores are filled with resin. It kinda becomes like « plastic ». That’s why it is used for knife scales so the knife handle does not get altered by water. The reason why it does not set is because it is not supposed to… The only way to set stabilizing resin is to heat it (thermosetting resin). I think you might have mistook it with epoxy. Epoxy will indeed set some hours after casting. Cheers

Thank you for watching. I really appreciate your kind comment.

Thanks a lot for watching and for your kind comment. Cheers

Thanks a lot. Where are you from? I get my wood from a local sawmill (in Belgium 😁). Still have some slabs to get rid of but people seem not interested in purchasing.

​@@WoodfulProjects I've just moved to Belgium and am trying to find a local source of lumber for projects of my own. You wouldn't happen to know of any good sawmills or lumberyards in the area around Leuven, would you?

@@danielphelps6815 I live near Leuven too. No mill in the surroundings but there’s one in Walcourt where I get the wood from. Unfortunately they only sell fresh sawn wood. You have to buy and dry it yourself. If you want to come check the slabs as the one you see in the video, drop me an email here and we can talk and arrange something. Cheers

I’m intrigued that you used a router to plane? I have to plane some spalted maple myself and I have a hand planer but i fear it will be too aggressive no matter the setting.

If you want to have engoua material to drill at ease, it should be minimum 2cm wide. As for the length, it really depends on the pen mechanisms you buy. I have mechanisms that need 10cm long qnd others 11,5cm long. So really depends on

🤷‍♂️ I don’t understand but thanks I guess

Sorry, don’t understand.

Can I order the jig? How mauch does it cost?

@@tohaismail9815oh, sorry I don’t sell the jigs, I just do them for my own use. But if I may recommend something, it would cost you less to buy the official SVM45 jig, which costs somewhere between 15 and 20$. Cheers

So far, the few tests I’ve done, it does dissolve but not in the same way and rate as it was in acetone. It remains at the bottom in a slimy form. No matter how much you stir, at some point it doesn’t dissolve anymore. But might worth doing some tests.

Yes you’re right. Could put it in a bag sous vide and cook it in warm water to reach the right temperature. I’ve seen this technique in some other videos but I didn’t have the right equipment in the shop to do it this way. 👍👍

@@WoodfulProjects That’s not what I meant. I’ve got a sous vide device that would turn that stove on and off to maintain the perfect temp. The stove is plugged into the device its probe would be placed inside the oven, either naked, in a dish of water or preferably in a piece of wood of a similar size to what you’re curing to mimic what’s going on inside the pen blanks.

@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 no sure I understand what kind of device that is. In French “sous vide” means vacuum device. So I’m a bit lost. Anything specific I can loop up on the web?

@@WoodfulProjects If I haven’t given it away I may still have one somewhere. I’ll try to find it and forward the to you. In essence, all it is is a machine that has a very accurate temp probe that when the temp deviates from the desired range by more than 0.5° it turns the electricity on or off to it’s built in outlet thus making any device highly controllable, be it a mini oven, rice cooker, crockpot etc. I used to use mine with a rice cooker to get perfect boiled eggs.

@@thechumpsbeendumped.7797 I’ve never used such machine but it can be a good solution for very precise temperatures.

Thanks for adding your knowledge to this topic. Definitely the wood is not much filled as it is with CJ (and thus more porous).

Hi, did you watch the video until the end? There is a summary of my conclusions and the weight of the blanks is shown too 12:04

On very burled wood ie. lots of eyes, I've got penetration as low as 10%. It's a very unreliable method to tell penetration, as the wood's complexity can mean that areas are inaccessible. Also, I have had pieces floating after a month and they never fully penetrate. The only thing I've found is just to have a standard method (I vacuum for 24 hours, release vacuum, soak for a week) and stick to it, then fix any voids down the line with epoxy or CA depending on size.

@@Mr_Chuckles totally agree. Because burl wood is really condensed and compressed, there are less pores to fill with resin. In comparison, punky wood can increase up to 80% weight sometimes.

@@WoodfulProjects There is No weight for the blanks with Cactus Juice

@@calderon4128 this is a video about paraloid, not cactus juice. Hence I’m only showing the weight of paraloid stabilized blanks. If you are interested in the weight increase when stabilized with CJ, I have another video on that. Cheers

Hello et merci pour le commentaire constructif. Comme vous pouvez le constater, les 3 sont solubles dans de l’acétone mais à tester sur l’alcool. Mes connaissances sur ce produit étant assez limitées , le but était de “jouer” avec les paraloid pour voir le rendu final. Je ne dispose malheureusement pas de matériel scientifique (ni des connaissances d’ailleurs) pour tester de manière précise les propriétés mécaniques du bois après stabilisation avec le paraloid. Ce que je constate néanmoins est que le bois échauffé à un stade très avancé (quasi pourri) a gagné en rigidité et ne s’effrite plus. Bonnes fêtes

Je n'y connais rien du tout mais sur le site artificina il est écrit "- Consolidation des bois et bois vermoulus (10 à 20% dans du toluène ou du xylène)" Si ça peut aider...

@@G4m1cmerci. Ca vaut la peine d’essayer. J’ignore si ces deux produits sont aussi corrosifs que l’acétone vis à vis des plastiques mais je garde cela à l’œil. Par contre, 20% de ratio me paraît très peu.

Thanks for watching

😂?

Thank you 👍

Bonjour. Je n’ai malheureusement pas dissout du paraloid dans de l’alcool mais quand je fais des recherches sur cela, il semblerait que c’est plus compliqué de dissoudre sans l’alcool que dans l’acétone. Cela dit, il est possible de dissoudre dans l’alcool mais cela requiert beaucoup plus de temps. Le résultat final sera plus épais également. Je vous conseillerais d’utiliser plutôt de l’éthanol qui semble dissoudre un peu plus vite mais attention que c’est très toxique comme substance. Bonne expérimentation.

Hi. You can add dye or pigment it does work. I've already tried it but it didn't work properly, only the first 5 mm were colored but I think this happend because I didn't let it enough time submerged. But definitely you can use dye. Cheers

Hi. Unfortunately, I have no idea where this can be sold in the US. I live in Europe... Thanks for watching.

Hello, the prices of acetone and paraloid are described in the description of the video. Cheers

​@@WoodfulProjectsThank you. I've read that it is reversible and can be dissolved again in a solvant. Did you try this with wooden handles?

@@Dustmadeout i haven’t tried it but here’s what I think : only the external layer will be dissolved. Because the pores are filled with resin, no solvant will be able to get inside, dissolve the resin then empty the pores of the wood

Hey Daniel. Hard to tell but if I was to go again with one of the resins, I’ll pick B72 or B44. Definitely not B67. But again, it’s not necessarily a scientific approach… I added a comparative sheet at the end of the video. You can see that B67 had hard times penetrating the wood while the other 2 did better. Even the texture of the B67 was a bit ‘’gummier’’. Cheers

Oh and another thing careful using it with acetone as the vapors will damage the vacuum pump and the acrylic lid. You may want to consider another diluting agent (alcool, spirits, etc)

@@WoodfulProjects thank you very much for your reply, and how would you compare it to cacts juice? is it at least similar to that?

@@DaNielsBuild if you can afford CJ then go for it. This alternative (paraloid) can be be used to help out but shouldn’t replace the classic solutions such as CJ or similar products that are meant to stabilize wood (at least not under the acetone form). And yes, the result is similar or very close to CJ. As you can see in the video, I stabilized some spalted punky wood and the result came ok.

Hello, this is spalted maple.

Can you develop ?

Buy me a rip blade plz

Thanks for watching

Hot vacuum pump? If you know how a vacuum pumps works, you know that there’s nothing to be worried on this matter. However, where you are totally right is about the acetone attacking the rubber and plastic parts. It does indeed destroy them if you do stabilize frequently with acetone. If you use it once in a while, no major issues to be adressed.

@@WoodfulProjects Cool, thanks for your reply. It is a pity that these pellets have to be suspended in such aggressive solvents. I presume that Cactus Juice etc. have some kind of proprietary resin that is oil-soluble...at least it feels somewhat like oil. Certainly doesn't evaporate at all.

@@Mr_Chuckles actually, on one of my previous videos I’ve also shown that cactus juice is really aggressive. Acetone kinda melts then acrylic lid but then it just hardens back while cactus juice create cracks on it which presents a risk of implosion (have seen plenty of videos where vacuum chamber had imploded during the stabilization process because the acrylic lid got attacked by CJ. But except this issue, I haven’t noticed any other damage from CJ to the vacuum pump itself while acetone did. I’ve discussed this matter on the forum penturners.org. You may want to give a look. Cheers

@@Mr_Chuckles oh and forget to mention, indeed CJ evaporation is not on the same level as acetone. But as said in the video, this is a cheap alternative. If you can afford CJ, I would recommend to better stabilize with it.

Cactus Juice is a Thermosetting resin. It cures by heat all the resin. There is no solvent to evaporate@@Mr_Chuckles

It’s a test. I’m not a chemist and have no idea which one is better for wood. This said, the purpose of the test was to see if one of them penetrate better on the wood and the final curing step (hard or gummy). Thanks for watching.

Got it. I’ll do better next time as I plan to make the whole series of Tormek jigs.

🤔🤔 not sure I understood everything but thanks again.

The whole video is a fast forward if you carefully watch it. Now, if you have any question about the making of the jaws I’ll be glad to answer. Thanks for watching.

Hi. The jig can handle up to 8mm of thickness. Regarding the centering, as noted by one of the viewers (see comment) there is a gap between the upper part and the lower part relating to the support rod. Meaning that the edge of the knife will be offset of 0,001mm or something la that (nothing noticeable).

Thanks a lot for watching and for your comment. For now it does not flex downward as the holes for the 2 guides are quite snug fit. But, the more I'll use it, the more it will wear out (wobbly) -> larger holes will surely flex downward. So thanks for the advice, I'll keep it in mind for when it's needed. As for the angle you cut on the dog block, does it marks your wood piece when you clamp it?

@@WoodfulProjects Sounds good, I would think if there is no flex now, it should stay good for a long time! Maybe the parts I used were not of great quality. Theoretically, the angle should correspond to the amount of flex, so when force is applied, the entire dog makes contact. But in reality it's of course not easy or practical to always apply the same amount of force, so yeah, sometimes there is marking in the endgrain. For most things I make that's not a problem as the endgrain will usually end up inside a mortise or covered in some other way, but when it will be exposed, I put a scrap of soft spruce between the workpiece and the dog.

@@GillisBjork thanks for sharing your knowledge.

Given the amount of time it takes me to make one, adding the shipping costs and material costs, it is absolutely not worthy for you neither for me to make one :). It will cost you way less to buy the original one (which costs around 18€). Thanks for watching.

@@WoodfulProjects I am not familiar with any monies other than USA dollars. convert please and thanks for the video.

It is roughly the same amount in US$. Just look up on google svm45 and you’ll find what you’re looking for. Best of luck.

Yes it is. The wooden arm is resting on the horizontal support bar, just like the original one.

@@WoodfulProjects Thanks for clarifying.

@@aries6776 thanks for watching 👍

Thanks a lot my friend. Glad you enjoyed it.

Not sure about what factory clamp you are talking about and not sure to what asymetry you are referring too. As you can read it in the description, given all the work it required, it is indeed easier to buy it. But, this is worth for 90% of DIY videos on youtube. It's always easier to buy and not to do it yourself because you can't compete with big factories and economies of scale... Anyway, thanks for watching.

@@WoodfulProjects I'm talking about the original holder. if you want to achieve high accuracy when sharpening, then the tool must be appropriate. cutting edge asymmetry. when the edge width on one side is different from the width on the other side of the knife.

@@workshop_oselok_kyiv at what moment did I mention high accuracy? I mean, I’m an amateur and at no point I claim that this is the best solution. It’s just an alternative to the original and it satisfies me totally. I do understand now what you mean by asymmetry. But let’s be honest, there less asymmetry due to the width difference in my jig than there is due to the use (totally manual) of an original Svm45. 80% of people I’ve seen do not use it properly, and if you’re part of the remaining 20%, then glad for you.

Hello. There are no dumb questions. I actually did not plane it after applying oil. I first plane the bottom face of the table then applied oil. After that, I plane the top face then applied oil :). Thanks for you kind comment and for watching.

@@WoodfulProjects Oh ok, I didn't see it was the bottom side. Cheers!

Thanks for your kind comment. Really appreciate it. 🍻