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I didn’t remove the intercoolers

@@racemyZ32 You misunderstood me, perhaps I was not clear, the lower bolt that holds the air intake TO the intercooler. I have no idea how this can be done without first removing the coolant intake; which seems impossible as the bolt on the coolant intake, to the rad, is shield by the air intake...Maybe a cut torx on a rachetable wrench will take the bolt off the rad for the coolant intake, but I am not sure there is even enough room between the air and coolant intakes for that to happen. I can barely touch the lower bolt to the intercooler with a 7" extension on a 1/4" drive and there is some corrosion on that bolt and the shape of the coolant intake throws the extension slightly off-center. So, I am not trying to take that bolt unless I have a clear shot at it. They come apart, so there must be a way...

One of the simpler jobs, just need the correct special tools. Will need to remove some coolant hoses, the radiator fans and the harmonic balancer. Make sure the water pump drive shaft is engaged into the drive gear before installing it into the engine.

Yes, I used construction adhesive to make a permanent bond and then spray foamed the gaps. Probably not what a body shop would use, but it’s been on there for over 10 years now.

@@racemyZ32 what construction adhesive did you use? The 3m tape is good, but like you, looking for a more permanent solution

@@richardebersole3680 Go to Home Depot or Lowes and in the caulk section is a tube labeled Construction Adhesive - it’s a permanent bond

Right on man! When did you acquire it?

@@racemyZ32 got it on the 1st of this month

It was one of the main pump seals, but it had over 200k miles so it was def overdue.

@Andrew Alden kurton si

David Olson Yeah they were a about one round out, but these cams have 225k on them.

If the seals fail, there is a possibility that water will enter into the oil system. Same goes for the cooler since the coolant system is under pressure. Oil in the coolant would suggest a head gasket issue. I would replace the cooler, all the seals on the oil filter/cooler housing, water pump and the thermostat - while you have the intakes off, do a carbon clean too. Good luck man

EDINN2505 the oil spec is mainly for the “ash” quality/quantity for the DPF system. Its an engine design issue, all Pumpe Duese engines have this problem no matter who the manufacturer is or engine configuration. I replaced both cams as a set, not a good idea to only do one cam. Both cams were severely worn down. This also gave me the time to remove the EGR system, bypass the cooler and remove all those pipes associated with it. Engine bay looks much more pleasant and its easier to work on now. I bought the cam kits from a engine shop in the UK called Lymm Engine Components. Great price and excellent quality.

@@racemyZ32 What cams did u end up getting? OE cams or aftermarket? And did you replace lifters along with the cams, as some aftermarket cams are harder and drill the stock lifters

Bill Jackson - The noise started around 212k, but i’ve read of some who’s started alot earlier than that and some who have never had an issue. Most guys believe that it is a lubrication issue, mostly where the oil goes and especially if you dont use the right oil. The center lobes on both cams were destroyed, but the sound comes from the wearing down of the lifter itself (which is why the new lifters are nitride coated). I bought a complete kit from Lymm Engine Components in the U.K. shipped for $1300. That included all hardware, bearings and both cams. Their component supplier was an OE supplier and they were awesome to work with - esp since their aren’t many options over here. I was half way through the tear down when I ran out of time (I run a boat rental business and use this to haul our jet skis). So I had a local dealer do it and regret that decision with a passion. Not because of the cost, but from the quality of the service that was done. My advice for anyone who is wanting the dealer to do this is to talk to at least 3 dealers and do alot of research on them before dropping off your vehicle. My back was against the wall and I just needed it done and thats what I got - $3k in dealer costs later. But she’s running now - 9 months and almost 10k miles later - Zoom Zoom!!

@@racemyZ32 Thanks for the reply man! Good to hear it's still on the road, thanks for the info, I got lucky and found a great indi shop that I can trust. Have you done anything as far as a tune or delete? I was looking at the Malone stage 1, and looking at dpf, and erg, delete to try and keep those turbo's running as long as possible.

Bill Jackson Yea man - no worries, not many v10s around and yes I have already put a tune on it cause my wife and I were tired of it’s regeneration smoke. I went with RocketChip Performance out of PA, I have his contact info if you want it. $700 for a tune w/egr and dpf software delete. Same HP and TQ numbers and I didn’t have to take it to a shop (removed the ecus and within a couple days he mailed then back). When I was checking out tunes my closest Malone shop was an hr away and they needed me to drop off the vehicle. After the software was gone, I removed the DPFs, cut the top open and gutted the insides - then had it TIG welded back together to give it that visual OK underneath. Now it has a different kind of smoke, lol! It’s a big difference and about a 2-5 mpg increase.

justin roby no it doesn't lol