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It's used by tree climbers to move around on a "spar" (a tree trunk or vertical limb without any strong long limbs in the required vicinity for an anchor). The system is retrievable. Not sure how much you know about tree climbing, but it's really, really deep rabbit hole. Here's the full video for this spar anchor technique if you're interested! ruclips.net/video/cMXPGh8r5Kk/видео.html

I prefer this method! The second method is only better if you need to tie the DD mid-line! Or if you are installing a loose ring. This first method allows for installation onto a fixed and loose anchor! And it's my personal favorite method! Just easier to tie! Edit: I totally made a mess of this post and edits aren't updating. So sorry if it's confusing!

That is the Bifrost by Yale Cordage! It's what I use for my lanyard! Great climbing rope, too! Definitely my favorite rope pattern of all time! =-D

Thanks for saying you like all of my videos! I'll be making content about both climbing methods in the future for sure! Thanks for commenting! =-D

This post was about offering private help to people via my free email service! =-D

This is a "static" redirect, meaning it cannot be retrieved from the ground! Check out my long form and short form library for redirects that are retrievable! =-D

It's definitely one of my best friction hitch creations! I highly recommend it to everyone and anyone!, whether for a climbing system or for a hauling or pulling system! Be sure to watch my TEST video, where I demo this hitch in action! ruclips.net/video/tu7haYgwzTE/видео.html

You're very welcome! Be sure to check out the second episode all about Complex basal anchors here: ruclips.net/video/bSKeHtfaxWA/видео.html You can also learn all about basic CANOPY anchors here: ruclips.net/video/hXmJagGnGFI/видео.html And complex canopy anchors here: ruclips.net/video/_olybU_32k8/видео.html

Scottsdale. In the desert. It's way too hot to make new content right now! All of my cameras overheat and so do I! haha I'm moving to Massachusetts by early July!

@Knot-orious I feel that we hit 116 yesterday and it's the same story for me the gopro doesn't like it . Good luck with the move .

@facelesspsycho8252 thank you, my friend! It's more my phone that heats up than anything else! It'll be 113 today! Ugh!

Yes, this one definitely is aesthetically pleasing to look at! I regret forgetting all about it and naming one of my hitches the "Synergy" hitch recently, which also works without a rope wrench. I've never actually climbed on this hitch, and I didn't create it, but I've been told that it works well by the creator of the Sticht friction hitch, which is probably the first wrenchless friction hitch, tested and debuted by a friend of mine who goes by Brocky. If you test it out, please share your experiences with us! =-D

I'm not entirely certain why this knot isn't more popular than it actually should be! It's easily my favorite fixed loop knot and you can create it in running form just like a running bowline, but with twice the security! I'm not sure why this knot isn't more popular among arborists! I'm definitely doing my part to help popularize it as best as I can! I use it all of the time! Yes, the name for the formation I had was a "munter." Not sure how that evaded me at the time! =-P Thanks for all of your comments!

If you had someone descend using this method down a 25 foot spar, they could retrieve it using 75 feet of rope with ease and some finesse at the device or hitch-based system being used.

Retrievable means that you can retrieve your system BEFORE cutting the tee.

I can't take full credit for this spar anchor method as I learned it from someone else on RUclips, but I can't remember where. And I don't know what to search for in order to find it. And I've tried. But I learned this from another innovative climber on RUclips awhile back. But I'm glad you appreciate my hitch and knot creations! Thank you for your comment! The Revolver Rig is so much better than The Revolver. I removed my captive bar by hand the first day it arrived at my apartment! It unscrews easily.

Thanks! I appreciate it! Yes, another awesome tool indeed!

You're very welcome! I definitely do my best!

Thanks a lot! I appreciate that! Be sure to check out the long form videos as well! They contain much more information!

Curious as to what you've discovered. Feel free to hit me up via email! You already know the address! =-D Yes, I have learned how to tie this knot from a variety of different orientations. You only need to remember one orientation for each tying method and, if I could suggest one over the other, I would recommend the second method!

Thank you! Be sure to watch the second tying method Short: ruclips.net/user/shortszi-AAHXJ0HI?feature=share

Thanks a ton! I appreciate it!

I was very new to YouTubing back then (over two years ago). I'm sorry for how awful this video is. Strangely, RUclips seems to think it's worth promoting to the world and It is currently one of my most popular long form videos of all time. Be sure to check out some of my newer content! I've improved greatly as a RUclipsr and if you're still into knots, you'll probably enjoy the newer videos!

This one definitely has some advantages (like being able to tie it in-line), but I still use the first method more often since I mostly produce this loop knot in the tail of my rope and around hardware or my belay loop!

What I believe you're saying is that it can be tied "mid-line" (or as you said, "on line"). Yes, but only if you use the first tying method! I'm going to pin this comment because it's important! Hugs!

@@Knot-orious in line , sorry ruclips.net/user/shortsrIZwflWxwE0?si=m9LUpmxcACGPp6rb

@@Knot-orious sorry, in line 🙋

"In-line" is maybe more accurate than "mid-line," but both are correct. I think they are synonyms. But I'll look into that.

@@Knot-orious Can this knot be used as a running Double Dragon for use as a retrievable anchor? I've always been taught to use the Alpine Butterfly, but I wonder if the Double Dragon has enough bulk to be used in this application?

Strong and more secure than the Yosemite bowline. Also less prone to loosening from cyclical loading! These are my personal opinions! I would compare the Double Dragon to the Bowline w/ Scott's Locked Finish! The DD can also be tied midline to create a unidirectional loop by using the first tying method!

i find it's easier this way

All of my gear and hitch cords are packed away for my move, so I can't verify the quality or authenticity of this tying method. But I trust that you know what you're talking about. Just be sure to verify the resulting knot with a known tying method for the Michoacán before you climb on it! Thanks for your comment! =-D

Wow! You're almost certainly absolutely correct in this assertion! I should have known that! =-D

No, the Double Dragon was created by someone else! I merely demonstrate both tying methods in this video and I may be the first ever to demonstrate how to use both methods to connect a piece of loose or fixed hardware (that exists in one video). I've never seen anyone use method #1 to show how to attach hardware!

I'm currently living in AZ, but moving to MA at the beginning of July. If you're able to meetup or if you ever just want to talk about climbing and discuss my "tricks" and techniques, feel free to hit me up privately at knotorious.contact@gmail.com (if I've already giving you this email, I apologize. It's sometimes hard to keep track of everyone in my comments!) Thanks for your awesome comment!

This knot unties rather easily compared to other loop knots. Maybe not as easily as the bowline on a bight, but definitely as easy as a bowline with a yosemite finish or a bowline with a scott's locked finish! Just break the collar that goes around the loop and push the loop strands into the knot and then push the working end back into the two coils an it comes undone so easily after being heavily loaded! You make a good point about adding chapters! I'll do my best to start doing that going forward. I'll add the chapters in the description for the videos! EXCELLENT suggestion! Thank you! Always looking for a new way to improve engagement and I'm always paying attention to what my viewers suggest to me! So I promise I am taking yours to heart!

You're so very welcome! My style is definitely a bit slower, but I also feel as though I explain things more thoroughly as well! Be sure to check out some of my newer videos as this video is old an I have become even better at YouTubing at this point! Thanks again for your comment! =-D

Thank you so much. I was brand new to YouTubing back then. Be sure to check out my latest content. It's so much better. I LOVE teaching! It's why I make content!

I'm not sure what you're talking about. What metal clip? You mean my carabiner? You can't even use it without a carabiner! Or are you talking about a rope wrench? Yes, I would trust it without a rope wrench if I use a moving rope system (MRS) versus a stationary rope system (SRS), as shown here. A rope wrench is REQUIRED for safely and effectively use 99% of all friction hitches on an SRS climbing system, so pretty much any friction hitch SRS without a rope wrench is dangerous and not possible.

@@Knot-orious You make it seem like the rope on rope is enough for it to work without the use of all the fancy metal stuff. Just 2 pieces of rope and a harness. Can it be done. I'd assume that's how people done it before the metal carabiners was invented. Or no?

​@@mostdope3178 I quite literally JUST SAID that a hitch , as part of a climbing system, can be enough...without the "fancy metal stuff..." I said the following in my previous post... "Yes, I would trust it without a rope wrench if I use a moving rope system (MRS) versus a stationary rope system (SRS), as shown here." You definitely don't need fancy metal stuff. You could use one single rope and anchor it to your bridge, with enough tail to tie a Blake's hitch or a Tautline hitch on the standing part if you use a 12-24-strand rope.

@@mostdope3178 as knot said you CAN climb with just a hitch cord as your suggesting, however adding the metal bit (rope wrench) adds friction in the system and allows you to climb on a single leg of rope (SRT/SRS) without your hitch locking up too tight which is important to ascend and decend smoothly. You could climb with just a saddle and climbing line if you can tie a Blake's hitch and a stopper knot (DRT/MRS)The fancy metal bits may be expensive but are worth it in the end if you can implement them correctly. it's all dependent on your climbing style!

@dabrokest530 Thanks for elaborating on my comment! @mostdope3178 Sorry if I seemed confrontational. I mistook your tone as being aggressive for some reason.

I use my double bridge ALL OF THE TIME. I specifically bought a Treemotion because, for me, I can't possibly climb as technically as I like to without having two bridges, because I frequently climb with two primary systems or use my longer lanyards as a second system, connected directly to my second bridge. You'll also notice that I have an anchor ring on both bridges. This helps me to offset all of my climbing systems by 90 degrees, so that they can be used more efficiently in a rope walk scenario (so that the neck tether/chest harness connection points of the devices, whether my Rope Runner Pro or my rope wrench, are facing towards me as I climb). |I just took a look at the Newtribe Onyx saddle (I believe Newtribe got out of the business a year or so ago) and, I can see one major way which would allow you to add a second bridge safely. You could buy 2X Petzl Ring Open (which are full strength anchor rings that you can connect onto other pieces of hardware and software by removing a screw and removing the black gate) and install one into each of the slots that you currently have your one bridge knot blocked through. Then you can connect two bridges onto your saddle by directly connecting each end of each bridge to one of the Ring Opens using a Poacher's knot with at least 3" of tail for each resulting knot. I hope this makes sense. If you need help visualizing this idea, email me at knotorious.contact@gmail.com! You could do it for the cost of the 2x Ring Open by Petzl, and for a length of rated rope to be used as a second bridge. Easy peazy and cheap solution! Or you could connect two bridges that are custom made with either a sewn or spliced eye on each end on to each Ring Open!

@@Knot-orious wow your really coming through with some knowledge and research!! I'll have to check into it more. Yeah unfortunately they closed their doors. They made nice saddles! They had a Collab with august hunike on the monkey beaver saddle I believe. I've climbed in a tree motion with a single bridge. The company didn't opt for that version. However they were extremely comfortable and had a lot of lumbar support!

​@@dabrokest530 Yes, Monkey Beaver collaborated with NewTribe for awhile, which helped teach August Hunicke how the art of sewing saddles together. Much respect to Hunicke, who didn't just have a team learn how to sew, but he learned to sew his Monkey Beaver saddles HIMSELF. Your boy, Knotorious, has a lot of knowledge. Not to prop myself on a high horse; but simply to point out that I don't speak unless I know what the *!#$ I'm talking about. If you need any help with creating a double bridge saddle, hit me up privately at that email. I'll happily demonstrate with pictures and diagrams.

That depends on your climbing method. In an srt setup like this it is closer to walking up stairs than you would think. There are powered ascenders like the Ronin but they are quite expensive.

Yo knot, what length hitch cord are you using here? I'm debating between the rope runner pro and a rope wrench. Are you satisfied with the length of pull with the rope wrench?

Love your videos

Haha, no, it's not "painful," but it definitely requires some higher level of physical fitness to ascend up a rope easily and to do so for a longer period of time without taking breaks. As the @dabrokest530 aptly just pointed out, there is a method for ascending SRS (a single/stationary rope system) called the "rope walking" method, which is easily the most efficient arborist climbing method and, even for me, someone who is fat and out of shape, it makes ascending much easier than any other method. The method I used in this clip is called the "sit and stand" method, which I only used becaause I only planned to ascend around 15-20 feet. I would have had to add a knee ascender and a chest harness OR neck tether in order to upgrade from the sit and stand method (which just requires a climbing device and a foot ascender0, and it seemed pointless for this video. Great question! It would have been more gear and more weight for no real advantage.

I'm using a Sterling RIT Response 9mm diameter (not to be confused with the regular Sterling RIT 8mm), 32" length sewn eye to eye (my favorite hitch cord of all time). I'm not sure what you mean by your question "are you satisfied with the length of pull with the rope wrench?" My suggestion to you is that, if you are a new or newer climber, that you buy a rope wrench system first and learn how to become proficient with it since it is far more response and far more forgiving than any mechanical device. However, the downside to the rope wrench system is that devices which incorporate friction hitches for progress capture and descent can often become very difficult to use when lots of sap gets on your rope. In this regard, the Rope Runner Pro is far superior. Another downside of the Rope Runner Pro is that, in a rope walking system, it doesn't ascend up your rope nearly as effortlessly as a hitch based system. I also feel as though I have a bit more control with my rope wrench than with my Rope Runner Pro. However, the rope wrench (unless you get a really short tether, which limits your options for which friction hitches you can use with it) has a much longer profile than the RRP, and a wee bit more "setback," especially if you use a "VT" aka Valdotain Tresse" for your friction hitch (which I wouldn't suggest, as there are so many better friction hitches for a rope wrench). I don't want to recommend anything for you in fear or picking something you might end up regretting buying. But I just gave you a bunch of useful information. Now you can hopefully make a more informed decision for yourself!

The Bifrost is made by Yale Cordage, so it isn't unique to Wesspur (although, Wesspur is the best place to buy it). It is an 11mm diameter kernmantle rope that is super static with a 48-strand cover, which means that it has excellent hand/knot-ability. I, personally, prefer ropes closer to 12mm for climbing because they are less taxing to hold onto (such as the Teufelberger XStatic 11.7mm or Drenaline 11.8mm), but the Bifrost is my favorite rope for my adjustable lanyard!

@@Knot-orious I got the new samson vortex dry hd..beautiful 12.7 thicker the better..I know about the rope was curios its 🖐 hand ..I like fat ropes ..other wise I use bluemoon and yale focus..yale is my favorite ropes always has been

@@Sethhaun78 For me, I find that between 11-12mm to be my sweet spot for my ropes and my devices. I also love Yale. They not only make the best ropes, in my opinion, but they produce the best color patterns for the sheaths!

@@Knot-orious yale focus is beautiful rope I've bought has excellent splice and glows in sun ☀

The new samson dry roped are incredible..5percent water 💦

Thanks for your comment! You've made my day! I'm excited to hear that I've managed to convince another person to give one of my best hitch creations a try! I'm even more excited that the superior quality and functionality of the Blizzard hitch has you using it permanently as your "go-to" for all of your lanyards! As soon as you try it out on your climbing ropes/systems, you'll want to use it there all of the time as well! In fact, after doing the testing needed to verify the safeness and quality of the Blizzard hitch, even I made the permanent switch to using it whenever I climb SRS with a rope wrench, after it had always been another friction hitch that I created for almost 2 years (the Calligraphy hitch). The secret to the Blizzard hitch is the two overlapping marls/half hitches below the coil! Very few knots will advance more easily/grab harder, but are so incredibly simple to tie! =-D

My style tends to usually be slower pace, as well as more thorough. I'm glad you were finally able to properly visualize this wonderful double loop knot's tying method! Fun fact: The knot that results from the Re-Threaded Bowline is EXACTLY the same as the Bowline On A Bight; it's just tied differently and can be tied with the loop around fixed pieces of hardware; something you cannot do with the Bowline On A Bight. =-D

Haha, I'm glad you enjoyed my video! I definitely wasn't expecting to get myself and my gear totally soaked! Just barely got my camera and audio equipment out of the way in time! Thanks for commenting! =-D

Hey there! Thanks for saying that you "love [my] content!" That made MY day! =-D You're going to LOVE the Notch Flow/Fusion rope wrench/tether combo! It's such an amazing climbing device! Not just because "stiff" tethers are waaaaaay better than "soft" tethers, but also because it's awesome to have everything (the wrench, tether, and slack tending pulley) connected as one piece of hardware! Also because the tether has a longer profile than most others, allowing for ample space between the friction hitch and the wrench! One suggestion I would give you is, if you are going to be rope walking, to use some paracord and tie or sew a small loop onto the tether so that you can easily connect a chest harness or neck tether to the device with an accessory carabiner! If you look closely at my tether in this video, you'll see that I've sewn two loops at varying heights on my tether! So much better than trying to connect to the cutout slits directly on the tether itself! =-D

@@Knot-orious my Notch Flow/Fusion rope wrench/tether combo arrived today from the us. I had time to test this new combo in my backyard. Now I need to test it further with my pursik cords to find a smooth knot. I use a Petzl Axis 11 mm static Rope. That’s the only rope I have with the minimum necessary diameter. Thanks for your tips to put some loops on the tether. I will do that. Here in Germany we don’t use rope wrenches at all. Especially the Notch Fusion Flow with rope wrench. I found only a few videos in German and this videos are almost 4-7 years old. Very little climbing with knots is done here on the main rope. On Lanyards are they commonly. The rope runner pro and the akimbo are more represented here with much more content. Maybe I should make a unboxing video here on yt. Thanks a lot for your advice. ✌️

​@@TredasTaurin Lead the way for climbers to use friction hitch-based climbing systems! Mechanicals are great, but I would always recommend that new climbers begin with a hitch based system as they are easier and safer and more responsive in my opinoin. For an 11mm rope, might I suggest the 9mm Sterling RIT Response hitch cord? Or the 9.3mm Teufelberger EpiCord? I love larger cord diameters because they result in much greater smoothness on the hitch. I weigh 230lbs and still love these two friction cords.

Sweet! I'm so happy to hear that the Blizzard hitch worked well for you and that it has become your new "go to," top choice for climbing! While none of my friction hitches have yet to see any major mainstream recognition nor adoption, I still get excited beyond belief whenever one of my viewers tells me that they are now using one of my friction hitches on a regular or exclusive basis! It's the ultimate reward! And for those climbers who do use my hitches, they get to stand out from everyone else who has only ever used or tried a couple of boring mainstream hitches. My hope is that, slowly but surely, my hitches' reputations will grow, their tying methods will get shared between climbers worldwide, and that, maybe someday, one of my hitches will be as popular as the Distel, VT, or Michoacán, and become a mainstay in the realm of arboriculture and tree climbing! =-D

Thank you for thanking me! I appreciate you and your comment! Not to brag, but when I tell my viewers that I've created a winning friction hitch, backed by actual testing, I say it with the utmost confidence! I want anyone who is thinking about using one of my friction hitches to feel confident that they can put their trust in it, and their life onto it, so long as they have the knowledge and experience necessary for climbing at height, and understand friction hitches completely! Videos like this one are going to become more commonplace on my channel as I feel that they will build everyone's confidence regarding using my creations for real world, serious applications! =-D Sorry for the micro rant.

I don't make very many videos where I demonstrate my hitches in actions, so I hope my viewers will appreciate this demo, and that they'll feel a lot more confident that the Blizzard hitch is an excellent choice! =-D Thanks for commenting and for your positive feedback!

Thanks a lot! I filmed, edited it, designed a thumbnail, uploaded it, wrote a description, and then posted it all in one day...because I told the commenter (just yesterday) that I would do so haha That's what we call "committment." =-D

I wasn't using the V-Rig because the situation required it. As the title for the video states, I was merely practicing the technique so that I can be proficient and deliberate with quickly setting up a V-Rig when the time is right or when the situation calls for it. For anyone who is unfamiliar with a V-Rig, it is likely overwhelming at first. However, in reality, it's actually quite simple and allows a climber to triangulate a regular Hitch Climber MRS, using two tie in points, providing impressive work positioning, stability and better distribution of forces providing the rope angle is kept below 120 degrees. 90 degrees is the sweet spot. So, basically, the equipment is NOT unnecessary if a climber is in a situation where it might benefit them to use a V-Rig. I also use V-Rigs for photography, so that I can photograph wildlife/birds high up, between two trees, in order to escape the blockage of their foliage.

No, not really. As long as you use a hitch cord that is appropriately sized for your rope, and so long as you tie, dress, and set the hitch correctly, it will work flawlessly with a rated rope of any diameter and of any type. Having said that, it definitely works best on ropes that have at least 16 to 48-strand construction. The greater the strand count, the more the rope will be able to maintain a round shape, which will help the hitch to grab more uniformly. Me, personally? I only use and own 32-strand or 48-strand kernmantle static ropes, and I prefer larger diameters. The thicker the rope, the better the performance because there will be more surface area for the hitch to grab on. My smallest ropes are 11mm diameter and my largest, currently, is 11.8mm diameter. This hitch will work with dynamic ropes as well for those who are rock climbers. Here is a video I just made today demonstrating how well the Blizzard hitch works: ruclips.net/video/tu7haYgwzTE/видео.htmlsi=h46qpsNNWNssGmhC