Видео

Awesome!!

i just jumped from 3d pen to getting a 3d printer and i have a lot of cheap filament left, been thinking a lot about trying to use it but i am scared that it might damage the printer, should i benchmark the cheap filament? what would you recommend first?

That's very cool! Maybe for the next major release, switch to an ESP32 or something else with Bluetooth and/or Wi-Fi, and you could optionally eliminate the display and keypad completely, and program it from either a custom BT app or a self-hosted webpage.

This is rad. I don't have a cat anymore but hopefully some friends who do want one so I'll have an excuse to make one.

Build your own Gatoino: smallbatchfactory.com/gatoino

You have so very lucky cats! Magnificent.

Super! I really want one for our cats!

Well done Sir. I just bought your kit and will make these for many friends who have cats, ordering some boards now via your affiliate link!

Do i like cats? No, do i like game boy? Yes, do i like your videos? Yes. Ok, 2 to 1, the video is approved for consumption!! 😂

What's that yellow filament called? It's giving wall-E and I love it.

Well done. It is a shame that regulation can make life so bloody difficult sometimes.

Good. Someone also proposed welding paperclips into prints and then covering these places, although I forgot what technique was used to cover paper clips and spaces between parts for large prints and I think they were even painted. Other proposal was pouring epoxy into gyroid infill or hollow object, but i would be careful for larger parts, I already have bad experience with positive loopback - epoxy generates heat as it hardens and it hardens faster when it's warm or hot and even something like cylinder with 2.5cm radius and 2cm height was enough to reach temperature where it started to smoke (it was some highly viscous, fast curing, clear BPA epoxy 15 years ago)

Check the manufacturers data sheet for what the plus means - hahahahahahaha! Nice video though

Thank you for the Terry Tate Office Linebacker cameo! Much missed since this world becomes more like PLA left on a tin roof in the summer.

1:34 Bro channeled his inner Uncle Roger

After reading a number of comments about PLA i decided i needed to set the record straight. PLA is an awesome material to print with. I use Creality printers as well as the Markforged X7, Mark 2 printers on a daily basis. So anything from $500 to $130,000 printers for my work. I see so many people say this and that about so many filaments shortcomings and greatness. I have to this day not seen more than a handful of videos talk about Print Orientation. Look into it and I think you'll find that the harder materials aren't always necessary. I use ONYX filament and find it does have it's place but PLA and even TPU/TPE are just as good if not better in certain components and orientation. My go to material is PLA first and foremost.

Orca is love, orca is life.

Great channel, it's better to have less informative videos that to create videos on weekly schedule even when there is nothing to say. Month ago I bough Bambulab A1 Mini with AMS being surprised how cheap it is and thinking it may be fun for not that much money. Issue is only that it occupies old TV table and it's not small or compact at all. Yeah and it has few tiny design flaws (or annoying features), but what does not. Technically there's G-code for benchy print at 17 minutes which can be speed up (ludicrous mode) by 66% to 13 minutes and something, but why ... it throws 5kg heavy printer like 2mm side to side because adhesion between rubber and table is poor ... i mean wooden table below and vibrations even transfers to the floor. It prints PLA, PETG and PCTG at 270C fine (maybe TPU as well?) and software is basically the same OrcaSlicer with integration of site with models. Sometimes I would like 25cm at least in one axis or both to get diagonal space as well, for printing ASA/ABS i can ask some colleagues. I would prefer to get Průša, but when I looked at it, it's twice as expensive (compared to A1mini without AMS), from youtube it seems like it's at least twice slower and build quality is like ... basically threaded rods and 3d printed parts instead of rails on aluminum profiles mounted on part likely from stamped aluminum frame and covered in plastic so build quality is on different level. Průša can be upgraded, repaired or modified easily I guess, but it's not something I'm looking for for the very first printer.

I'm new to 3d printing, but my only Issue was with Filament PM - not the filament itself but with downloaded print profile which as two and half times volumetric flow than profile from bambulab. Material was extremely brittle with very poor layer adhesion. On the other hand, it was only filament which was packed in zip-lock bags, which are better than nothing for storage. PS: to make it clear, after setting volumetric flow from 16mm3/s to 6mm3/s, and adding a few percent to extrusion, prints are perfect.

Thank you for the video

hi hope you can help when i add a SVG logo to my box in the svg setting i dont get the the operation option at the bottom and use surface and from surface are greyed out any ideas ??

Am I the only one that would just use the mounting holes already built into basically every power strip ever? It will be easier to mount/unmount, use fewer screws, and hold stronger.

In a few years they find out that Carbonfiber from 3D printers cause lung cancer. And no-one "could have imagined" that short stiff fibers can cause that. 😂😂😂

Not a native speaker. To good and clear pronunciation :) German? Subscription is done.

Да ты ж мой золотой, спасибо тебе!

What's the B---- system being described around 2:10 onwards? The speech is very fast and the accent is a little strong, and the CC definitely can't work it out - it would be good to have terminology shown on the screen for the next version. 😊Vielen dank! Btw, there is so much useful knowledge in this video, and the free download guide looks excellent. Thanks again!

my .svg logo wont cut onto the object, it will only add. Is it because my object was built as a mesh?

Just get Capton sheets 6.3x6.3 and apply to your build plate and forget about magic glue and other stuff it works with abs petg and pla.

Another good video with some great advice. I just moved over to Orca Slicer and have been printing with it, for the last week... it's an excellent slicer, with a well balanced combination of Cura/Prusa features. The z-seam functions are robust and they've improved overall quality. I've bumped my speeds by about 15-20% and get the same quality prints.

I'm interested in a printer to make Knife Scales for my own knives. Any ideas?

quick tip in 2x speed he's making kasane teto fukkireta head movement.

Thank you for this and your other solid information videos . Its a very welcome change from the common " look at how great this printer is that I've been using for 5 minutes " .

Is it just me? Or is there something with the sound?

Excellent stuff!

Great topic, thanks 👍

gibts auch deutsche videos von dir ?

Simply splitting the print into smaller parts printed in different orientations can make a huge difference. I've had problems printing a big basket for my wife's bike in 2 prints, it always broke during printing, and when I finally got it right - it broke in use when she drove over uneven terrain. I redesigned it to print in 8 smaller parts with different orientations for the bottom and for the walls, and not only I saved lots of support material - the resulting print is much stronger, and when she had a crash - I only had to reprint the part that connected the basket to the handlebars - everything else survived because the weakest point was the 90-degree bend :) Another thing I learned is that it's better to join it to the bike with flexible joins (basically - design holes in parts and tie them with rope) - so that there's some amortization for whatever is in the basket. BTW - instead of a bolt you can use a zip tie through a hole for compression :) Or even just a piece of string or rope.

4min in and your humor got med subscribed.

ASA is indeed hard to print. There is a big interaction between the material and the process. What you described here are EXCELLENT points...MANY THANKS Here are some additional lessons I have learnt. 1) I find printing btw 30-50mm/sec produces the best line quality. 2) Printing at 250degree Celsius with plate temp of 105degree seems to get best results. Use a temperature tower to characterize the best temp for the filament brand you are using. 2) To get best strength and quality, Stay away from tiny nozzles. 0.6mm works best. Maximize line width, around 0.5-0.6mm works best. 3) First Layer Height and Flow Rate is CRITICAL to achieve bed adhesion. These 2 parameters are inversely related. Increase First Height Layer and decrease Flow Rate. I find (0.2mm height+0.95 Flow Rate) the best for plate temp of 105Celcius and the filament I use. You need to experiment with these 2 to find the best combination for your setup. Avoid any Z-height offset, especially if your printer has a Auto Leveling function. 3) If your design involves tiny parts, I have to print multiple parts, layer by layer, to allow the tiny part to cool off before the next layer is printed. This prevents squishing of the uncooled material. It's been a journey. Good Luck !!

You have excellent dry wit. Subscribed.

The problem with getting started is the fact there are no honest reviews and recommendations. You're all being paid to push specific models so of course those will top your list.

Wait... there are people who turn Z-Hop on?

Thanks for sharing 🙏

You’re absolutely right with the key messages in the video - however ramp and spiral z hop modes have solved the stringing issue. So it’s less of a compromise as it used to be

When I started 3D printing, Z-hop wasn't even a thing. It was very long ago. I started using it to avoid knocking over fragile supports and fragile and thin print parts. I often use extra fluffy supports with extrusion width smaller than nozzle size by a lot. I usually dial in nearly homeopathic amount of Z-hop of like 0.1mm and use diagonal Z-hop in Orca to overlap the vertical and horizontal movements to waste less time on it.

z hop has always been a waste of time

I like the way you say "Z" 🇨🇦 o7

Awesome video, thanks! Like someone else said this is so high quality I didn't think this could be a relatively new/smaller creator, very impressive I hope you grow a lot! Love the lifting white board btw lol!