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Hi mate, some pliers or mole grips would work, grip it tightly from the front and then just wiggle that same way you would without the arm. Alternatively cut it off carefully/destructively remove it if you've got a new arm to go back on and this is junked anyway!

Just keep trying man, keep doing the trick I mentioned with revving it with the bolts backed out. Also try some lubricant spray maybe. It can be tough but don't get ham fisted and break it, patience and effort will pay off for you

good question, dealership rates are maybe £100 an hour nowadays, they'll be quicker at disassembling it than me no doubt but the cleaning still takes a good few hours, plus consumables. You're looking at maybe £400-500 perhaps? not worth it in my opinion. A good independent garage may do it a lot cheaper or DIY it :)

That's a good question, I haven't personally had that at all but I would suggest it could be the EGR not opening fully after a quick google? First port of call really is get the car on a really good scanner that can also read live data, otherwise I'm afraid you'll just be firing the parts cannon at it. An autel or snapon scanner can show much more accurate fault codes and live data than a cheapo reader so I would suggest this first and narrow down the problem mate. Can check MAF values etc under load too!

You mean always been worked on?

Thanks for commenting, hope it helped!

Great cars, enjoy! I love this thing

@@Enginesetc Yes me too

Thank you much appreciated 😎

Yeah the ends I know which bit you mean. IT's such an annoying part, it's not too bad till it falls on your head and it makes you so angry haha

Thank you, means a lot :)

Halfords are about as much use as a chocolate fire guard anyway but yes it can be a bit awkward without the correct ones as I show here, it is doable though and with a tower compressor which they should have, they should've been able to do it. That's a hefty bill mate sorry to hear that but glad its sorted now at least!

Hope it helped!

No way haha, very cool! It's a cool motor, I did see it for sale quite a lot following my friend selling it. Does it still look the same?

Thank you appreciate the kind words! Was just cheapo Ridex springs from autodoc, I find they last well and seem to feel ok for a standard replacement part

@@Enginesetcthanks. I’m stuck at 14:33 .. is it an idea to use some silicone grease on the top mount rubber to slide it easier into place ?

@@Sim-ru6sr a bit of silicone spray might be helpful, I'd be worried about any thick grease interfering with the fit or allowing slippage when installed. Admittedly it is a bit awkward as you're trying to press the whole shock assembly up into an area you cant see and it has to be aligned right. It can also help if you can get a ajck underneath the assembly and push it up into place so all you have to do is align it

I would say yes replace the full unit for sure, fresh dampers then too! I do not I'm afraid, it was on ebay years ago now. I just got whichever was the cheapest ones on ebay 😂

Hi, sadly I couldn't really capture it on camera so it isn't shown, sorry! If you slap the caliper like in the clip I inserted you can see if it has excess movement, it should be very stiff! It was like a thumping at times, on rough or cobbled streets it was so bad and constant budumdumdumdum, and if I dragged the brakes it went away (probably cos when braking it clamps and stabilises itself against the disc if that makes sense. Good luck man, it's a nightmare tryna find rattles!

I went for the recommended Tein settings, it's in the middle so 11/10 I think! When I get my wheels on and lower the car I'll likely go stiffer to prevent excess rubbing

bro 11/10 setting from max 16 click anti-clockwise to 11/10 click?

@@Tommy-wo4hg mine's got up to 20 i think? I can't remember precisely and dont have the book to hand, I just did it in the middle between soft and stiff :)

Bro idk

Man, what a great first car this will be for you! Thanks, stay tuned for next video, I fix the biggest issue these cars suffer with (there's not many to be honest they're great!)

Well, short of draining it there's not really a way to do so. Just make sure you're changing it every 8k miles and you'll be fine!

A lot of the e-torx stuff is hard to get annoyingly, luckily my halfords toolkit form 2011 still has it haha

Hi, it's a 2007! Would highly recommend one, I love this to be honest

M272 E25 your engine code if you have a V6 petrol mate, when you cycle through it with the up and down arrow is there nothing else? You can switch menus with the square icon button and then from each screen set you can cycle through those settings with the arrows or the plus button I can't remember which off the top of my head

Do you get any of the menus? Can you cycle through to anywhere other than Speedo or temp?

@@Enginesetc yes, I’ve got settings for lights and etc., everything except oil measurement

@@fifo0gaming934 Does yours maybe have a physical dipstick then? Some models do seem to have them!

I'll get round to doing one for you :)

@@Enginesetc thanks!

Hello, yes it's at: we.tl/t-iF7noqsVvr sorry for the delay in responding!

@@Enginesetccan you do that again hahaha

@@macieklandowski590 we.tl/t-UrcoJqg2Df here you go!

I think the facelift w203 has the scale on the side. I have the pre facelift version and im currently unsure how much to put in. I have read on the internet to use a black plastic indicator on the inside of the tank. But Im still unsure if I use the right one. If someone knows pls help.

@@KoloG23 The top of the tank is black the bottom is white, you fill all of the white part but no over.

@@82windows82 Thank you very much. Greetings from 🇩🇪 ✌️

@@KoloG23 Just make sure engine is cold, best to leave overnight, never open when engine is hot you can get burned, the system is pressurized.

@ Yes I know that, I just was confused because every other car I know has a scale on the container. Still thanks for making sure. Wish you the best👍

I believe it's either a 4 or 5 yes :)

You're right, de ioned water is best to use, however the coolant itself has properties that helps stop corrosion and gunk etc so if you're mixing tap water with an equal amount of coolant, it'll be fine. I've never had an issue and not really heard of any issues from it. If you were to use a heavily dilute coolant i.e. mostly tap water then yes, you may have issues you're right :) also I know, I was meant to get a bucket under it or something but as you can see it took me by surprise, nearly drowned myself so sadly it did spill. I rinsed it away with plenty of water to dilute it though so did what I could in the situation, I have 3 cats of my own so I didn't want any wildlife being harmed!

Either way works fella, doesn't matter either way I've always got a good pedal this way :)

In my opinion you should get a proper smoke test done, to look for any microscopic leaks (I've seen a pinhole in the intercooler on this one which caused issues but wasnt visible to the eye). Then also get a proper workshop to diagnose it with live data etc. they should be able to use the diagnostic machine to see WHY the boost pressure is low, the cause of it not just the symptom. Rather than changing parts and spending money for no reason

Glad I could help :) Hope the car is ok now

Thanks for the kind words and glad it helped you do your first service yourself 🫡

Yes it can cause this as if it's massively clogged up you're reducing air intake

@@Enginesetc thankyou soo much, will work on it asap

@@shadabtambe6122 good luck man, let me know how it goes! There could be other issues of course but this is a good thing to check anyway :)

Yes it's om646, the 2.2 online 4 diesel

@@Enginesetc om 646,981

Thank you, I really appreciate that! I've got plenty of plans so stick around 😎

I don't 😂 you can feel when its bottomed out and therefore tightened fully so no real need for a correct torque down really, as long as it's fully tightened

Probably not, there is however a coolant temperature sensor which could if you google where that is :)

I've researched everywhere I don't know where to find the coolant temperature sensor on this engine , its doing my head in now

I must admit I'm loving it! Congrats on picking one up

Get a 350 or isf

@@carlbrooks90 350 not possible here in the Netherlands, ISF too expensive. Will get a low mileage manual IS250.

@@thijs5931 same here, no IS350's here and I'm not rich 😂

Glad to hear you found it helpful, give it a go it's really not that hard! :)

To be honest sometimes I've had this come up, I thought it would've warmed me before that! But I added 1 litre, re-checked and it seemed ok and the car lives so it's not the end of the world 😎

I used blue coolant, G-48 specification is ideal but any blue coolant should be fine. Comma G-48 is specifically what I used

Glad to hear it helped and thanks for commenting :)

Hey fella, if I remember correctly it was baffle out for the video, 95% sure

It is, I like to give details, it seems to help people :)

Hi, I honestly just typed into ebay "volvo v70 rear wiper motor" and they're all pretty much the same :)

Thank you for the kind words!

Castrol is great but honestly any name brand synthetic oil of the correct grade will be fine. Check the oil specifications to see if it meets VW spec (whatever it states in cars handbook) and you're golden!

Good to hear it helped :)

Thank you, really appreciate that!