Видео

I went through the passenger side front at the corner, pulled the wire under the carpet by the passenger side tunnel, and then under the rear seat to the 2 speakers behind the rear seat. I had to drill a hole and got a nice rubber grommet for the hole…

@@LarsonSplitBus- Excellent! thanks!

Yes! So I got some baby powder and it works like a charm. But after 5-6 months you have to reapply. I am back to a bit of sticking now…

Yes! That’s where I play tennis - do you play tennis there?

Yeah I was also told that like 10 and 2 work well. I didn’t know that at the time, and just thought 12 o’clock was the way to go…. Don’t have problems yet - I suppose I could rotate them a bit…

@@LarsonSplitBus- 12 oclock always made LOGICAL sense to me too, hey, as long as youve no problems, thats all that matters..interesting machines full of mystery & entertainment! replacing rear axle seals now( theyre always failing eventually!) and a axle to tranny gear oil leak, winter is the time to do these things semi-lesurely anyway...M

Thanks I agree. My old wire was very brittle and stretched a bit going around the corner under the car. If it rubs on metal then eventually it can take the rubber wire housing off and short out. I’ll take a look - but it is great to have a brand new wire in there compared to an almost 60 year old wire…

It works great - I have had it now for several years. I was concerned because all these lines are behind the fan shroud so if gas started leaking it seems like it would be a disaster. But I cut and flared everything very carefully and then tightened it all down and it works great. Much cleaner than the side lines in my bug that are in front of the shroud!

I have 2 metal snips and don’t like either of them as they bend the metal and are not very precise. With the dremel I can cut out more precise pieces. If you are good with the snips - I say use whatever works! The annoying thing was just how bad the fit was of the tins on the aluminum case!

Thanks for checking in. I am doing well, but had some other things on my plate so the VWs took a back burner. Thinking about making a few more videos soon, as I replaced my bus fuel gauge with a programmable one that can be used with the 15 gallon tank and sender. Take care - hopefully I’ll be back soon!

Oh - sorry about that! The visors sort of jam onto the two horizontal posts. So you attach the mirror with the two posts that go out to the side, and then the visors jam on there. I noticed if they become loose or flop down, you can jam them on toward the mirror and they hold better.

Ok, maybe you can explain the purpose and usage of a shut resistor? I don’t know what that is, so I wouldn’t have thought to use one!

I tried a variable speed relay, but ended up using an LED capable (simple) relay but with the normal 2 filament 12 volt bulbs and the trailer 3 to 2 box. That setup worked great. Also, part of the relay is providing the “click” for the turn signal - so keep in mind that changing the relay can change the sound of the blinker - or even whether or not you can hear it at all…

The bus towing a Tesla, versus a Tesla

Man, I tinkered with this forever but couldn’t get it to work properly, and then the AMR 500 delaminated the lobes and got Teflon flakes all in my Weber carbs. I chucked the AMR 500 - I should have used a (more expensive) centrifugal supercharger…

The supercharger failed and blew the lobe Teflon into my Weber carbs. It was kind of fun while it lasted, but overall this setup wouldn’t work with such a cheap supercharger. Next time it’s gotta be a centrifugal supercharger and not an AMR-500

I have some kind of plate(s) on there, but when I drive - especially in the cold - a cold wind comes through the radio. I wonder if I am missing something…

Well, I think I had a combo of some pulley bolts loosening up and the inside of the softer aluminum getting bent and wider - this happened to me twice, but never happened on the stock pulleys - which by the way fit much tighter and were a bit of a pain to get on and off the crankshaft. Anyway - no more aluminum or chrome pulleys for me. Stock or steel only…

That chrome POS should not even be in existence......and I know why...lol

Hmm, the chassis was a 1965 and I don’t have any reason to think it is anything else. I don’t know where to look for identification markings - I didn’t consider replacing it because the beam seemed completely straight, but clearly that snubber was hit by something.

Yes good suggestion! I got baby powder back then and it worked like a charm…

Apparently it allows for the expansion and contraction of different metals without pushing on anything. I had read about or seen this so I just followed suit…

Thanks! I love driving the bug because it is light, has a lot of power and steers like it is on rails. It is simple like a lawnmower. So good…

Thanks! I built 4 motors and each step is both interesting and contains a small fear of doing something wrong that will be expensive later. I love driving around in the 2 motors I built - highly recommend to anyone considering it!

The generator brushed look more square, and the alternator ones are longer and narrow. You can Google for them - I think I bought a whole black plastic part that had the brushes in the little slider areas, but the brushes themselves are like these:

www.partsgeek.com/21fwxrg-volkswagen-super-beetle-alternator-brush-set.html?DN&PartsGeek+Google+Base&+Volkswagen+Super+Beetle+Alternator+Brush+Set+Standard+Motor+Products+71-79+Volkswagen+Alternator+Brush+Set+1975+1972&srsltid=AfmBOoo0rZhlERnqYFgmZxKjD9Q9mAU6mOZytoOYrG5lqD7DIrGchWovapg

OH! This is what I bought to replace the whole black plastic part with the brushes and connector: www2.cip1.com/c26-903-559/

Oh, sorry about that. I didn’t know that I was skipping over an important part. From what I can remember, it was critical to move the shifter left and right for the angle, and forward and back to push the coupler together. Then you can manipulate the angles a bit and when you push the rod into position in the coupler. Sorry again for fast forwarding over the critical part…

Yeah that AMR500 died on me - the lobes delaminated. There was the right amount of oil - it was just a cheap piece of junk. Better to spend the $ on a centrifugal supercharger rather than a roots style…

Wait - what was fiberglass insulation? I don’t think I have any fiberglass insulation - do you mean the Jute material under the carpets?

The beetle is a 1968cc motor. I wasn’t able to get the AMR500 to work, because two of them delaminated the lobes as I was trying to tune it. Oh well - I think a more expensive centrifugal supercharger would have been the way to go.

Yeah - I have a door key and an ignition key on the beetle. On my bus I was able to file the lock cylinders so one key fits all - I had to alter two cylinders.

Thanks! Yeah this beetle is pretty fun to drive - it has some power when you want to pretend to be a race car driver in a dumpy little beetle!!

I believe for the full flow oil, I used 3/8 NPT to 8AN Flare. I have some straight fittings and some swivel and elbows. A company called “Evil Energy” makes good fittings and is available on Amazon…

I actually have a sand seal and a normal slinger steel pulley now. I got rid of the aluminum pulley because it kept getting loose. Nothing like a steel pulley! And the sand seal just sits there around the slinger and it doesn’t leak any - at least not from the pulley. I have other small leaks around the valve covers and over the heater boxes to deal with!

I feel like putting in a seal cant hirt at least press fit style. Really like stay with grooved stock steel pulley even though guys have said grooves will tear seal. Idk guess got to experiment solve it somehow

Probably, but I couldn’t figure it out. I had cut the original cable by accident. It seemed to be attached to the inside of the gauge…. Maybe someone else knows the answer to this…

Ok, I got mine to work, but if I need one I’ll let you know…

Yes - the car was converted to 12v and the Bluetooth is 12v

Voltage regulator from JBugs and fuel pressure regulator from Summit Racing

@@LarsonSplitBus- hey thanks for the quick response 👍

Yeah - all of these things come in handy - the switch is good if you leave the key on with the motor off and don’t want your electric fuel pump to pump into your carb valve when the bowls are already full and no fuel is moving!

I initially put on the wrong button. I needed the black one with the push button and I had to learn how to hook it all up

​@LarsonSplitBus- ahh I see I think I have the old setup that I have to pull and push to pump the water up, I'm going to check it out on the weekend

Nope - it was legit 60 mph

I am still not 100% sure it is wired right. It reads slight + when running. I don’t think it ever reads - while running or driving…

@LarsonSplitBus- Ammeter shouldn't show - while engine is running/going down highway!!! If ammeter shows - while engine is running that indicates alternator isn't able to keep up with load and instead battery is supplying load!!! It should be - when ignition, is on and you turn on headlights/radio ect!!! In other words battery is draining and engine -> alternator isn't charging/supplying load. If ammeter shows 0 it means there isn't any current flow... In other words battery is fully charged and everything is powered by alternator alone! If it shows + it means alternator is feeding current back to battery (charging battery)!!!! Usually that should happen only short while after starting car (alternator charges up energy that was spent while starting car) PS I don't know anything about Beatle but I think with this type of ammeter there should be a shunt!! I didn't see you wiring one and you said it's shuntless so IDK!!!??? If shunt is used it should be wired between battery and fuse box! Sometimes shunt is built in insulation switch!!!! Only wire that doesn't go through Shunt is fat starter wire! Shunt would also eliminate running thick wires such a long way!!!! Try googling (Tractor ammeter shunt)!!! Good luck!!!

Yes! I bought one - I need to use it on the next video. I also have a head GoPro mount now…

Yeah - my shroud and tins were a terrible fit, and I had to do a ton of work to get them pretty close. The alignment for the belt can take tinkering too! Good luck with your project - the good news with mine was that once I got it in place and aligned, it hums along nicely now! It is a really reliable motor, and as long as I can tolerate a few oil drips, I have no complaints!

Yeah, I left my Sapphire AM radio in there, and the Bluetooth is hidden up front under the bonnet. My 61 has no cigarette lighter, so I added a double USB plug to the right of the ash tray and I am good to go. Good luck with your project - balancing the volume of the dash speaker with the volume of the rear speakers is also tricky so the front one is audible but not overwhelming the sound coming from the rear with a tinny small speaker sound…

Dual port.

@@LarsonSplitBus- I have a 1960 with a 1600 single port. Debating what I could do to it with the current heads. Kind of want to go turbo but the Kompressor Haus kit price and simplicity is appealing.

No prob! Good luck with your project.

The key was - I got the turn signal switch I wanted - but since this is a 12 volt conversion I couldn’t use a 1961 switch anyway, so I got a good one in the style I wanted. Then I realized that snowflakes need an interruptor and it wasn’t clear what I needed given a full aftermarket rewiring for a 12 volt converted car - so I got the trailer switch and tinkered around and finally got it to work perfectly. The fast blinker problem is easily fixed with an LED relay of the exact same type - the 6v to 12v and burnt out bulbs drive you craze on the normal relay

Funny! Yes the QR code is for anyone wanting info on VWs or my 2 projects. I have a 1966 bus and a 1961 bug. The full home restoration of the bug as well as the 2 motors I built are on the channel. The bus has a 2332cc motor and pretty much can haul ass for a bus. 0-60 in 11.2 seconds! Maybe I’ll see you around Chapel Hill!

​@@LarsonSplitBus- Definitely fast for one of those. You might.

I love it. It was a bit pricey and shipped directly from Germany - but it is really nice….

@@LarsonSplitBus- I've ordered one. Can't wait to fit it,

Interesting. Yes, since they fit on both ways, I just got it wrong. Good luck with your VW project(s)!

The breather box usually has some sort of sponge material in there and is open at the top. This allows the oil breather tubes to breathe while absorbing any oil mist. But they are not sealed in my experience, though I have only installed two of these with tubes to the valve covers and the filler tube.

I bought the doghouse for my 2332 from Scat VW and had to cut and bend it a lot to get it to fit my aluminum case. For my 1968cc I bought an old stock shroud and painted it black. The old one was thicker metal, and fit better, but the newer Scat one is smaller and in some ways I like it better despite having had to cut and bend it…. Good luck with your project!

@@LarsonSplitBus- awesome thanks for the info

I took the trailer lights and tapped into the left and right brake lights and then have the plug by the hitch