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great method where you dont have to remove the upper and lower control arm .However for the Japanese vehicles the hubs are not bolted but pressed on the knuckle and so this method may not be efficient .Im still looking for a solution where someone presses hub on wheel with UCA and LCA intact - again these problems arise in Michigan maybe rest of the country its OK

THANX

Forget the lock tight!!

My 12 year old Ford Edge with 240K miles definitely needed this trick! THANK YOU!!

I didn't know wheels had bearings

Best advise I've seen for a stuck hub! Thanks again...LOL my nightmare was a 2010 Ford Edge rear hub assembly

Excellent idea, I trying this tomorrow

Heat is yo FRIEND

Most people might have some music in a how to video an intro or the 1st 5 seconds, you have the music through out. I don't want to be the director, I know your the "content creator", but humble suggestion, if you you wanna play your heavy metal tunes in a how to video, at least mix it where the vocal instructions is louder than the actual music, not the other way.

Wow, so glad I came across this video! Posted over 3 years ago but still relevant as ever. This was a huge help after PB Blaster, hammer, other tricks, and even the hub/bearing puller tool from Advance Auto Parts that I borrowed. Thank You Again! 2010 Lincoln MKS

Hey bro you forgot your center cap. Otherwise excellent video good job do you like that not a lot of extra BS involved right to appreciate it thank you don't forget your center cap next time LOL

Great video. Thanks.🙂

Husband states, "Hammer does not work, maul is required. Video is slightly misleading only two hits were required." Thank you so much!

Question: did you put in a new locking screw after you drilled out the old one? Thanks. Answered my own question. The locking screw isn't necessary. I kinda figured the bolts were doing the hard work.

Why not just use a bearing puller

I'm gonna try this in the morning. Been hammering at my hub for two hours 😢

Great camera work. I'll try that trick soon. Probably replace rotors and pads too, because its already torn apart.

Put a little anti-seize on the CV shaft splines. Sooner or later that has to be removed again.

Dude has a sweet Dremel kit and not afraid to use it

in my cast it was easier to just just take the spindle off because replacing struts anyway

Is the nickel based the preferred anti sieze type?

Great effort

I thought this was working when pressure was finally released. Then to my horror I noticed I was PULLING APART THE BEARING. Thought that wasn’t possible. Had to take the knuckle out and make a puck to put against the back of the bearing. It took three full strength overhead strikes with an 8 pound sledge to knock it out.

it worked FANTASTICLY. I pretty darn sure i could have beat on the assembly for a month and still it wouldn't come off. In fact I'd probably have bent the shield plate in to a ball, and have only removed the assembly chip by chip. 7/16" GRADE 8 bolt x around 2" long and Grade 8 nut fit in nicely (with the larger bolt as a spacer). It took quite a while to little by little break things loose as i moved the bolt around to wherever i could find an available flat spot (only 2 spots, barely found a 3rd). Had to move around to the different spots about 4 times each and spray in rust/corrosion penetrant constantly, and then could hit with heavy hammer to break things more loose, then a couple bangs on the spindle ..... FINALLY it came off. Thank you for the tip!!

Great video. You saved my life

Very nice. I hope mine comes off as easy as yours in rusty NY. Good tips.

Worked like a charm on Toyota Prius rear. Thanks!!!

Glad I found this video. What length bolt are you using? I may need to go to this method tomorrow.

That's so informative I love your instructions it's straight forward in step by step how to make it a bit simpler thanks.

Yeah, you smack it where and how would’ve been good to show that😢😢

Awesome thank u!

Thanks, I used this method on an Opel Astra J front bearing, and it works. I forgot to buy hardened bolts, so I broke three 10 mm normal bolts, but I took only 30 minutes to remove the old bearing.

I have a 2015 Ford transit I have the same problem but the rotor does not come off unless the hub assembly is off first. I do not know what to do any help will be great.

Did this and the wheel bearing pulled apart. Now all that's left is the rear part of the wheel bearing stuck in the backing plate. Any suggestions?

I am very happy to report that this method works - and my 2006 GM vehicle (rear-wheel drive) has 120,000 Chicagoland miles. It also has an aluminum suspension knuckle that had a ferocious grip on the hub assembly/wheel bearing. I had PB Blasted it and beat it with a sledge and driven a couple flat head screwdrivers into the few spots where the hub wasn't melded to the dust shield - all to no avail. Then I tried this Bolt Trick. A crack opened on top; rotated outer hub ~180 degrees and cranked down the pusher bolt again and another crack opened; banged on the hub's backside with a small slege and that SOB popped out! To other newbies reading this, there's 3 key factors, per my experience: 1. Use a *hardened* (grade 8) bolt and nut, as GoProGuy said (3:30- 7:45 in the video). 2. Use a 6-point impact socket. 3. Use a breaker bar (mine was ~14") P.S. My hub already had an open hole, so I didn't have to remove any studs before starting. Muchas Gracias Amigo!

This worked awesome on a old sierra! Really saved me a lot of time. My 4lb sledge hammer didn't have a chance. I used a socket as a spacer and a 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt.

love how all these RUclips videos are working on cars with clean bolts and bearing. mine were rusted and stripped very easily. need a northern cold weather salted roads version lol

Fantastic ! Tremendous camera shots , clear concise descriptions , perfect pace . Definitely a valuable resource you produced for us ! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge !! 👊🏼🔥

I cant believe how much of the car has to be taken apart before you get to the lightbulb. Why make it so stupid hard to replace a bulb.

Thank you for a very detailed video! What is the other rusty piece that looks like a part of a plate?

How big was the hole you made in the soft aluminium steering knuckle not to mention the dust shield, if the bearing is stuck very bad the hub will pull out of the bearing and you will end up with the bearing still stuck in the steering knuckle also the this method pull on one side and might crack the steering knuckle.

Thank you so much that has to be one of the best videos I've ever seen on RUclips about a wheel bearing Awesome mechanic skills!! Ty. The most effective video!

Accept the carpenters hammer. ...

Hello. A8 d3 2007 model i have. And same problem comes. 11520 005 g397 errorcode. In my case, i had changed the sensor 3months ago. So this time i gonna fix the headlight broken line. So how do i know that which side is brokien. Passenger side or Driver side??

Definitely worked. Bought two bolts but only used one. The down side is the 10 minutes it took to grind off a bolt on the old hub (which is why I only used one of the bolts, and spun the wheel around to the opposite side). On my wife's Ford Edge, the margins were tight, and the knuckle is covered by a sheet metal dust cover (I just targeted a position on the cover next to the small bolts holding that cover in place, i.e. it's a hard point, put the end of the grade 8 bolt right next to it). Difficult to fit the grade 8 bolt,washers, spacing bolt, and grade 8 nut (used 3/8") in place between the hub and knuckle. But no comparison to the effort of removing that hub without that bolt and nut, or a proper press. Oh, and I used an air impact wrench to crank the bolt in on the outside, and a boxed end wrench to hold the bearing nut in place behind the hub wheel. Made very short work of it. (I tried the other trick of using a towing receiver without the ball, but no luck. Mine was probably too short for proper leverage.)

This was an absolute awesome video! Thanks for sharing and making our lives easier with this trick! 🤘😎

Great video! Can I offer a suggestion? Next time you get a new car, use lanolin grease (Woolwax is the best) and spray the bottom of your car once or twice a year. It takes about 8 cans but really stops rust from forming.

did you not put a new brake disc screw in,,,cheers

You could also finish off the rotor and brake caliper with Red Rustoleum primer to galvanize, cure the rust and make it look good; works on all surface rusts similar! :)

Always grease the splines!