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GoPro Guy
Добавлен 22 июл 2013
5 WAYS TO KEEP DEER OUT OF YOUR GARDEN
Five low-cost ways to keep deer away from your garden. Gardening, deer repellent, deer away, Brian's Garage, @goproguy7874, pests
Просмотров: 977
Видео
TOILET LEAK SOUNDS and how to FIX with NO TOOLS
Просмотров 1,9 тыс.7 месяцев назад
Identify 2 common toilet leaks, how to fix them with no tools. Plumbing, Toilet Leak Fix, Toilet Fill Valve, Flapper Replacement, DIY, Brian's Garage, @goproguy7844
Fix a slow shower or bathtub drain with NO TOOLS or just ordinary household tools
Просмотров 9447 месяцев назад
How to fix a slow bathtub or shower drain with NO TOOLS or just by using ordinary household tools. Plumbing. DIY. Clogged Drain. Unclog shower or bathtub drain.
Remove FUEL or VAPOR LINE from flexible nylon fuel or vapor line coupling
Просмотров 1,3 тыс.8 месяцев назад
How to remove stuck vapor line or fuel line from nylon line coupling GM fuel line stuck GM vapor line stuck Fuel coupling stuck @goproguy7844 Brian'sGarage
Mother's CMX Ceramic Spray Coat Product Test
Просмотров 1,7 тыс.2 года назад
5 month test of Mother's CMX Ceramic Spray Coat @goproguy7844 Brian's Garage
Stuck Wheel Bearing; EASY REMOVAL! The Bolt Trick
Просмотров 584 тыс.3 года назад
How to remove a stuck wheel bearing / wheel hub.
Audi A8/S8 Adaptive Headlamp Fix
Просмотров 21 тыс.4 года назад
2004-2010 D3 Platform Adaptive Headlamp Fix
Stuck Wheel Bearing: Easy Removal!
Просмотров 127 тыс.5 лет назад
Stuck Wheel Bearing: Easy Removal! Rock Energy by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Artist: audionautix.com/
Holiday Valley Pond Skim 2018
Просмотров 24 тыс.6 лет назад
Holiday Valley: Ellicottville, NY Pond Skim 2018
Snowbox Derby Pack 3274 2009-2014
Просмотров 1146 лет назад
Snowbox Derby Pack 3274 Music by: Sammy Hagar: Eagles Fly, Hans Zimmer: Countrylypso
Winter Park Resort Trestle
Просмотров 5126 лет назад
This video is about Winter Park Resort Trestle First Run 2017 - 2018 Season News Theme 2 by Audionautix is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Artist: audionautix.com/Fluidscape by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index....
Winter Park Resort Hobo Alley Lonesome Whistle Edelweiss Dec 2017
Просмотров 2036 лет назад
Winter Park Resort Hobo Alley Lonesome Whistle Edelweiss Dec 2017 Rocky Mountain High by John Denver
Derailer Donovan Winter Park Resort Dec 2017
Просмотров 1486 лет назад
8-Year Old Donovan tackles his first black diamond at Winter Park
Winter Park Resort Panoramic Opening 2017
Просмотров 986 лет назад
Winter Park Resort Parsenn Bowl Opening Day Dec 29, 2017 Music: Americana - Aspiring by Kevin MacLeod is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution license (creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0/) Source: incompetech.com/music/royalty-free/index.html?isrc=USUAN1200092 Artist: incompetech.com/
Terraria- Ocram defeat! Souls of blight! Using vampire knives!
Просмотров 2,9 тыс.9 лет назад
Terraria- Ocram defeat! Souls of blight! Using vampire knives!
ok you have it apart .What about inserts and O ring that should be in connector do you cut and replace end of the line. if so what did you use
You are my guardian angel. I played with this stuck wheel bearing unsuccessfully for about 12 hours and tried your method...DONE DEAL!
great tests
Appreciate it but I was struggling to listen over the music
What is bolt spec? Thanks
Man nice job, this is better than sliced bread, I almost gave up but then grabbed a bolt, couple nuts and a washer, appreciate you
great method where you dont have to remove the upper and lower control arm .However for the Japanese vehicles the hubs are not bolted but pressed on the knuckle and so this method may not be efficient .Im still looking for a solution where someone presses hub on wheel with UCA and LCA intact - again these problems arise in Michigan maybe rest of the country its OK
THANX
Forget the lock tight!!
My 12 year old Ford Edge with 240K miles definitely needed this trick! THANK YOU!!
yesssir!! Glad it worked.
I didn't know wheels had bearings
... or bearing hub for your wheel. Whatever makes you happy!
Best advise I've seen for a stuck hub! Thanks again...LOL my nightmare was a 2010 Ford Edge rear hub assembly
Glad it worked! Skip the busted knuckles - this works without all the blood, sweat & tears.
Excellent idea, I trying this tomorrow
Heat is yo FRIEND
Agreed! Heat is easy to apply to a single bolt. Tougher with bigger parts. This is quick and doesn't take much effort.
Most people might have some music in a how to video an intro or the 1st 5 seconds, you have the music through out. I don't want to be the director, I know your the "content creator", but humble suggestion, if you you wanna play your heavy metal tunes in a how to video, at least mix it where the vocal instructions is louder than the actual music, not the other way.
You're right ASE! My next videos dropped the background audio - it's too much. But the trick still works.
Wow, so glad I came across this video! Posted over 3 years ago but still relevant as ever. This was a huge help after PB Blaster, hammer, other tricks, and even the hub/bearing puller tool from Advance Auto Parts that I borrowed. Thank You Again! 2010 Lincoln MKS
Glad it helped! As long as cars have wheels this trick will work and remain relevant!
Hey bro you forgot your center cap. Otherwise excellent video good job do you like that not a lot of extra BS involved right to appreciate it thank you don't forget your center cap next time LOL
Great video. Thanks.🙂
Husband states, "Hammer does not work, maul is required. Video is slightly misleading only two hits were required." Thank you so much!
Question: did you put in a new locking screw after you drilled out the old one? Thanks. Answered my own question. The locking screw isn't necessary. I kinda figured the bolts were doing the hard work.
I didn't replace the locking screw. it's not necessary. It does help to hold the rotor on, but you can work around it pretty easily without one.
Why not just use a bearing puller
A bearing puller will work well, until it doesn't then try this trick. It works when conventional methods don't.
I'm gonna try this in the morning. Been hammering at my hub for two hours 😢
If that didn't work - try this bolt trick too! studio.ruclips.net/user/video7Yk2p5_CxqE/comments/inbox?filter=%5B%7B%22name%22%3A%22ENGAGED_STATUS%22%2C%22value%22%3A%22COMMENT_CATEGORY_NOT_ENGAGED%22%7D%5D
Great camera work. I'll try that trick soon. Probably replace rotors and pads too, because its already torn apart.
Put a little anti-seize on the CV shaft splines. Sooner or later that has to be removed again.
Dude has a sweet Dremel kit and not afraid to use it
in my cast it was easier to just just take the spindle off because replacing struts anyway
Is the nickel based the preferred anti sieze type?
You can use standard anti-seize. I may have used nickel, either is a lot better than none!
Great effort
Thanks so much!
I thought this was working when pressure was finally released. Then to my horror I noticed I was PULLING APART THE BEARING. Thought that wasn’t possible. Had to take the knuckle out and make a puck to put against the back of the bearing. It took three full strength overhead strikes with an 8 pound sledge to knock it out.
Now that's stuck! I've seen it happen a time or two. Usually end up (carefully!) cutting out the rest of the hub to get the final pieces out. Sounds like it had no plans of ever leaving the knuckle!
it worked FANTASTICLY. I pretty darn sure i could have beat on the assembly for a month and still it wouldn't come off. In fact I'd probably have bent the shield plate in to a ball, and have only removed the assembly chip by chip. 7/16" GRADE 8 bolt x around 2" long and Grade 8 nut fit in nicely (with the larger bolt as a spacer). It took quite a while to little by little break things loose as i moved the bolt around to wherever i could find an available flat spot (only 2 spots, barely found a 3rd). Had to move around to the different spots about 4 times each and spray in rust/corrosion penetrant constantly, and then could hit with heavy hammer to break things more loose, then a couple bangs on the spindle ..... FINALLY it came off. Thank you for the tip!!
So glad it worked! Would have loved to see your face when it started moving. I know I've had moments of epiphany when things finally worked the way they're supposed to also!
Great video. You saved my life
Yes! Another victory! Glad it worked! Thanks for the comment!
Very nice. I hope mine comes off as easy as yours in rusty NY. Good tips.
Rusty NY is probably just as bad as rusty OH! I know your pain brother. It will work! Read the comments of all the successful removals. When all else fails, you'll wish you had tried this hours before!
@@goproguy7844 It didn't work. When I tightened the bolt, it split the bearing. The lug part fell off. The back piece was stuck on. I had an awful time. I spent hours. I finally drove wood chisels in the cracks. When they were wide enough, I hammered in a cold chisel and pry bar. I worked my way around until it finally popped out. What a nightmare that turned out to be.
Worked like a charm on Toyota Prius rear. Thanks!!!
Great to hear!
Glad I found this video. What length bolt are you using? I may need to go to this method tomorrow.
Good question! 2" may work, 3" will probably work for every application. There's no harm in having a little longer bolt. Take a lug nut to the hardware store - make sure your HARDENED bolt (& nut) is smaller diameter than your wheel studs. So the bolt you buy needs to fit through the lug nut without hitting threads. That doesn't mean an 1/8" bolt will work. Make sure it's as wide as possible - but still needs to fit through the stud hole in your bearing / hub assembly. Good luck!
That's so informative I love your instructions it's straight forward in step by step how to make it a bit simpler thanks.
Glad I could help!!
Yeah, you smack it where and how would’ve been good to show that😢😢
Awesome thank u!
You bet! Glad it worked!
Thanks, I used this method on an Opel Astra J front bearing, and it works. I forgot to buy hardened bolts, so I broke three 10 mm normal bolts, but I took only 30 minutes to remove the old bearing.
Glad it worked! Hardened bolts make a substantial difference.
I have a 2015 Ford transit I have the same problem but the rotor does not come off unless the hub assembly is off first. I do not know what to do any help will be great.
Did this and the wheel bearing pulled apart. Now all that's left is the rear part of the wheel bearing stuck in the backing plate. Any suggestions?
Must have a really bad one! You'll need to carefully chisel it out or even use a Dremel tool with a cut-off wheel to get it loose. Be very careful not to cut, score or damage the aluminum knuckle. Keep using lots of penetrant oil. This will take time, but it can be knocked out. The rear section will be tough to cut, but it's going to need to come out in pieces.
I am very happy to report that this method works - and my 2006 GM vehicle (rear-wheel drive) has 120,000 Chicagoland miles. It also has an aluminum suspension knuckle that had a ferocious grip on the hub assembly/wheel bearing. I had PB Blasted it and beat it with a sledge and driven a couple flat head screwdrivers into the few spots where the hub wasn't melded to the dust shield - all to no avail. Then I tried this Bolt Trick. A crack opened on top; rotated outer hub ~180 degrees and cranked down the pusher bolt again and another crack opened; banged on the hub's backside with a small slege and that SOB popped out! To other newbies reading this, there's 3 key factors, per my experience: 1. Use a *hardened* (grade 8) bolt and nut, as GoProGuy said (3:30- 7:45 in the video). 2. Use a 6-point impact socket. 3. Use a breaker bar (mine was ~14") P.S. My hub already had an open hole, so I didn't have to remove any studs before starting. Muchas Gracias Amigo!
De nada!! YESSSSS! Another win! Yeah - it really works! Glad this video added to your success!
This worked awesome on a old sierra! Really saved me a lot of time. My 4lb sledge hammer didn't have a chance. I used a socket as a spacer and a 1/2" x 3-1/2" bolt.
Another victory! Glad it worked!!!
love how all these RUclips videos are working on cars with clean bolts and bearing. mine were rusted and stripped very easily. need a northern cold weather salted roads version lol
This one was NE Ohio. Lots of rust on this and the bolts were certainly not clean! Look at the old bearing / hub - a rust belt standard!
Fantastic ! Tremendous camera shots , clear concise descriptions , perfect pace . Definitely a valuable resource you produced for us ! Thanks for sharing your time and knowledge !! 👊🏼🔥
Glad the video helped. Best wishes.
I cant believe how much of the car has to be taken apart before you get to the lightbulb. Why make it so stupid hard to replace a bulb.
Yeah - no surprise Audi repairs are expensive! You can get to the bulb by opening the back access panel, then removing the HID/LED ignitor. But it's almost a completely blind job (can't see and do it at the same time) and really tight quarters. Fancy stuff isn't easy to work on anymore!
Thank you for a very detailed video! What is the other rusty piece that looks like a part of a plate?
The "plate" is the dust shield. Just keeps brake dust from interacting with brake parts. This will vary by manufacturer, or in some cases not even exist.
How big was the hole you made in the soft aluminium steering knuckle not to mention the dust shield, if the bearing is stuck very bad the hub will pull out of the bearing and you will end up with the bearing still stuck in the steering knuckle also the this method pull on one side and might crack the steering knuckle.
Even for the most stuck hubs, the bolt may make an 1/8" or so imprint dimple, but it won't be significant. The video recommends pulling from multiple sides to balance the extraction angle. And yes - the bearing could pull out of the hub with the hub stuck in the knuckle - but you'd have that problem no matter what method you planned to remove it. If that happens, the hub has to be tapped, cut or pressed out of the knuckle (or replace the entire knuckle).
Thank you so much that has to be one of the best videos I've ever seen on RUclips about a wheel bearing Awesome mechanic skills!! Ty. The most effective video!
Glad it helped
Accept the carpenters hammer. ...
Yeah, I'm a carpenter too. No excuse, wrong tool, right job.
Hello. A8 d3 2007 model i have. And same problem comes. 11520 005 g397 errorcode. In my case, i had changed the sensor 3months ago. So this time i gonna fix the headlight broken line. So how do i know that which side is brokien. Passenger side or Driver side??
You would need to remove the headlamp assembly and look in through the back door to see if you could spot a broken wire. In my case, it was obvious. Driver side was stuck pointing far to the left. Passenger side kept moving just fine. In your case, you could manually adjust them both straight and disable the movement motors by cutting the wires. You'd have an error code message forever though. Sad way to go, but it would work.