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Glad you liked the video, and the NASCAR diecast! Been collecting them for years with my son, it's a hobby we both enjoy! Thanks for watching.

This trimmer has a dual bump feed that will auto feed the line out of the trimmer head. While slowing pressing the trigger, bump it against the ground and you should see it slightly come out. Sometimes it will come out to the desired length after one bump, if not do 1-2 more times and it should be out enough. Hope this helps.

No I don't own this GP, but I have been working on it for many years. This vehicle is my dad's and he has owned for 20 years and is just shy of 400k miles.

Yes, I do still recommend these sensors. In regard to the temp readings, they are very accurate. These newer freezers constantly fluctuate temperate, and these sensors respond within seconds. You do have to replace the batteries every few months as the cold definitely reduces the life. I haven't tried any lithium batteries but it's probably worth a shot. I have used Energizer batteries and have never had any blow up in the last year. Hope this helps.

I have a video coming up showing the process. In the meantime, if you look on the driver's side of the transmission the level plug is right there. With that said, I always caution people when checking/adding fluid as its done wrong more often than not. The problem is, if you dont do the exact process outlined and the right temp people overfill/underfill all the time. As long as no leaks, add what was removed and that is the sure bet way to not do it wrong. With that said, if your interested here is the process to check: (1) Start the engine. (2) Depress the brake pedal and move the shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about 3 seconds in each range. Then move the shift lever back to PARK (P). Allow the engine to idle 500-800 rpm for at least 3 minutes to allow any fluid foaming to dissipate and the fluid level to stabilize. Release the brake pedal. Note: If the transmission fluid temp (TFT) reading is not at the required temperature, allow the vehicle to cool, or operate the vehicle until the appropriate TFT is reached. If the fluid temperature is below the specified range, perform the following procedure to raise the fluid temperature to the specification. Drive the vehicle in second gear until the fluid temperature is at the specified temperature. Some models have display on the dash showing the transmission fluid temp if not equipped then you will need scan tool. (3) Keep the engine running and observe the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) using the Driver Information Center or a scan tool. Caution: The transmission fluid level must be checked when the transmission fluid temperature (TFT) is at 85-95°C (185-203°F). If the TFT is not at this temperature, operate the vehicle or allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid level with a TFT outside this temperature will result in either an under or over-filled transmission. TFT 95°C under-filled, TFT 85°C over-filled. An under-filled transmission will cause premature component wear or damage. An over-filled transmission will cause fluid to discharge out the vent tube, fluid foaming, or pump cavitation. (4) Raise the vehicle on a hoist. The vehicle must be level, with the engine running and the shift lever in the PARK range. (5) While the vehicle is idling, remove the oil level set plug on the left side of transmission. Allow any fluid to drain. (6) If the fluid is flowing as a steady stream, wait until the fluid begins to drip. (7) If no fluid comes out, add fluid until fluid drips out.

@@TeamDIYNow Thank you. This was very helpful

@@richard_alvarez_1972 Glad I was able to help.

Glad you liked the diecast collection and the video! Thanks for watching, I greatly appreciate it!

Glad you liked it! I do have some other videos out there for this Enclave and have a few more coming up (how to check transmission fluid and cabin/air filter change). I have to finish up a Ford Escape transmissions swap video first and few others but will try to get to more Enclave videos soon. This is one of my personal vehicles, so if anything else comes up I will for sure do a video.

You won't be disappointed! I really like both the M12 and M18 lineup.

Thanks for sharing!

Good to know. Thanks for sharing.

Yea I do feel like sometimes I push it harder, but if you dont when working with nails it takes longer. I just cut up 75 yards of an old pressure treated fence a few days ago with both of these and they worked great.

Yup agree, I have an Autel scanner that will also set the parking brake service mode, but a lot of people don't have a scanner. I wanted to make sure did this video to help others as its not required to buy a scanner unlike what some shops try to tell customers in order to get business.

I haven't used any slotted rotors on any of my personal vehicles as I worked on a few vehicles about 10 years ago that the owner kept having them crack. Maybe they were using a lower quality rotor not sure, but after seeing them cracked made me second think about trying slotted rotors on my vehicles. I know they do help cut down on heat, so I was surprised to see them crack. Which brand did you use?

Yea you're right its dirty! Something I need to add to the list to get done!

No need to disconnect the battery. Also, as long as the engine is cold there shouldn't be any coolant coming out so no need to drain.

Glad you like it! I agree this trimmer is awesome especially for the price. I have been impressed with all of the other Skil 40V outdoor power equipment I have used as well (chainsaw, string trimmer, blower, and pole saw).

Yea the 2 speaker M18 is definitely better-quality sound, but the mobility of the M12 is nice as well.

On certain years/models you have to start the vehicle. On this 2018, you must start the vehicle (I tried in run as well and it didn't work). Some of GMs newer years will allow you to do this process with the run like you stated (I also mentioned at the end of the video that some only work with the car on and others will work in run).

Im not positive the exact size, however you must use a crush washer not a regular washer. You can buy individual crush washers at your local store or an assortment online ( amzn.to/4evvTtU ) but typically its best if you have the old one to compare. You may just want to buy a new sensor as they are only like $20, and it will come with new washer ( amzn.to/3XBpDKn ).

I agree!

Blind Mark makes 2 different versions...check out the one for existing outlets here: amzn.to/3Zw6ex2 .

No, you won't be able to use as this gun is only capable of drywall screws. I would suggest using a flooring screw gun, Senco, Quikdrive or PAMFast they all make good guns. Here is the Senco one: amzn.to/47BHFAC

I personally haven't had any bend; however I primarily use Milwaukee and Dewalt blades as that is what is available locally for me.

Glad you liked it! Typically, as long as you add the amount you removed AND you don't have any leaks it's not required to check. The reason I caution people about checking/adding additional fluid is because if you don't have it level and the right temp it will cause an underfill/overfill. With that said if you want to check, currently I don't have a video on the procedure on this transmission, but I will add one at a later date. In the meantime, here is the procedure: (1) Park the vehicle on level surface, apply the parking brake and place shift lever in Park (P) and start engine. (2) Depress brake pedal and move shift lever through each gear range, pausing for about 3 seconds in each range. Then move shift lever back to Park (P). (3) Allow the engine to idle 500-800 rpm for at least 3 minutes to allow any fluid foaming to dissipate and the fluid level to stabilize. Release the brake pedal. (4) Keep the engine running and observe the transmission fluid temperate (TFT) using the driver information center or a scan tool. Caution: The transmission fluid level must be checked when the transmission fluid temperature is at 185-203 degrees F. If the TFT is not at this temp, operate the vehicle or allow the fluid to cool as required. Setting the fluid when not in this range with result in an over fill or under fill. (5) With the vehicle on level ground, engine running and shift lever in the park range. (6) Remove the dipstick and wipe it clean and inspect fluid color. Should be red/dark brown. If black inspect for excessive metal. (7) Install the dipstick. Wait three seconds and then remove again. (8) Check both sides of the dipstick and read the LOWER level. (9) Install and remove again to double check reading. (10) If the fluid level is not within the crosshatch band add fluid to the appropriate level. (11) Reinstall Dipstick Note: If you don't have a transmission dipstick, then you need to look on the side of transmission there is an oil level plug that needs to be removed to check. Its the same process except your looking for fluid to come out to confirm you have enough. If nothing comes out and in the temp range, then add till it drips out then re install level plug. Hope this helps.

@TeamDIYNow that makes sense! Thank you for adding this explanation!

@@gm-tf5yd No problem, glad I was able to help.

Glad you liked it! No, there shouldn't be any coolant that will leak out. Just make sure you do this when the engine is cold, do not remove the sensor when engine is warm otherwise there could be some to come out due to pressure. For the wiring harness, I believe this is the part you need: amzn.to/4djm94W ...however not unless you see if burned I wouldn't order it ahead of time as the majority of the time it's just the sensor. If you do remove and see the wiring is bad, most parts store stock the same part number. Just make sure you get the GM sensor ( amzn.to/49AYv2d ) as some of the aftermarket ones sometimes cause problems...the wiring can be any brand. Hope this helps.

Yes, all 3 washers are the same.

@@TeamDIYNow awesome , thank you. I had the drain plug one all shattered so wasn't sure. Thanks for the quick response. I'm about to go and finish up the job. Thanks again

@@frankrivera5603 No problem, glad I was able to help.

Interesting, I haven't experienced that on mine as the M18 has a duty cycle of 20 mins. It will sometimes shut off for 1 second because of the true fill technology so it doesn't overfill, but it turns right back on to top off. If the one you saw can't fill a tire to 32psi I'm guessing that pump or battery is defective.

@@TeamDIYNow The one I saw had an overheat message on the display. I have just ordered the Dewalt, for me, I don’t have other Dewalt products, so I would otherwise have to order the battery and charger, but it can run from the 12V socket so that fits the bill for me.

@@moshezaharia4666 Yea the Dewalt does work well when connected via the 12v car connection. The only way I use mine as well.

Agree!

Yea I agree, you do see additional power gains with more demanding tools. I did a few other videos comparing these batteries with M18 circular saws (ruclips.net/video/QpmoBJ9QV0E/видео.html). My favorite thing with the Forge is the full power all the way till the battery is drained which is what really separates the Forge from the other M18 batteries in my opinion.

Yea I agree, hard to pass up for only $149 for both tools, battery and charger!

I haven't used Hilti's drywall gun, but I do own the DX2 powder-actuated gun for concrete and it works good.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching.

Hello, please see the chapters in the description for each installation step where I show the torque specs.

Yea its crazy how many different jobs you can do with this tool! I haven't used on any drywall yet, but I'm sure it would work great.

Glad you liked it! The old thought about not changing a transmission fluid is if the transmission has some miles on it and may be on its way out (like 200k+ and the transmission has never been serviced). If you change the fluid, some of the sludge/metal shavings inside of the transmission holding things together could be drained out and now you could experience some shifting issues. With that said, nearly every transmission has a service interval that it is recommended to drain/refill the transmission. On this Enclave/Traverse, the normal maintenance schedule doesn't list the need to drain/refill (which I wouldn't follow) but the severe does say its recommended at 45k on page 345. GMs first bullet point on how to determine normal vs severe service interval says if 'Mainly driven in heavy city traffic in hot weather' would mean you need to follow the severe schedule. There's a lot of cars that should be serviced by the severe schedule but aren't because no manufacture wants to say their vehicle needs a ton of maintenance so the normal looks more appealing to consumers. My advice, drain/refill this transmission every 50k or less as there is no harm in changing too often but big consequences if you don't service at all. There is an internal transmission filter that is not serviceable, which is all the more reason you don't want to clog that up with dirty fluid as that means a complete teardown. I have had my share of GM transmissions go all the way up to 350k and still shift good and I'm sure it's because I always service around that 50k mark. Hope this helps.

It appears they may file for bankruptcy as they struggled towards the beginning of the year posting financials. As of 9/17/2024 most of their products are still for sale thru Amazon and my local Lowes other than this table. I'm hoping they emerge post-bankruptcy as a new company as their products were great.

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it! Yea it does want to pull forward at times, but not near as bad as my Dremel. Its hard to beat the control of a jigsaw while cutting holes in laminate for hvac ducts, etc... but this tool is good overall at various jobs. I did a separate video on a few of Bosch's jigsaws (ruclips.net/video/PzUX8wQ0Ns4/видео.html). Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it! Thanks for watching!

Glad you liked it! The 5ah is still my go to when the HO isn't needed (lights, drills, impact wrenches, etc). Its smaller and has good power for most small jobs. Where I use my HO and Forge are with my outdoor trimmer, blower, chainsaw, and circular saws. With that said, I do agree the prices of the batteries are getting up there. Here in the US they aren't as high where you live, but they still are expensive. If looking to get into the HO lineup, the 6ah HO is the sweet spot for power/price/dependability. The 8ah HO has a lot higher failure rate than the 6ah HO and in my opinion outside of using the 12ah on a miter saw its too big. If you need the power the 12ah produces, then the 6ah Forge is the one I would get as it's the same power and a lot smaller. Typically, here in the US around the holidays there are some good deals and ever since the Forge came out the 6ah HO has been on sale. Im sure here in another month or two Milwaukee will be including the free batteries so hopefully your able to get one for free.

As long as the bolt is threaded inside hole it should just go in straight. It may look a little off going on but it should straighten out when get it flush to pump. If it’s going on really crooked then maybe the pulley is bad as it may not be flat.

Your RT should have the HD brakes. On the rear, both the regular and HD are 330mm but the HD is vented and 22mm thick vs the regular is not vented and 14mm. On the front, the 350mm is for the HD and 330mm for the regular. Depends on where you buy them, sometimes retailers only show in the description to buy the front rotor based on if the rear rotor is vented or solid. If vented just means you also need the HD rotor up front. Hope this helps.