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Pretty slick there

Man that muffler got your arm good didnt it? I've had the scar a few times

Omg. How easy

Nice sled

Yep you definitely helped me on this one, I have a crapsman that has the same tranny in it and I'm kinda thinking I have the same problem as you had. So thanks again.

Need help!! Will the 314-0510 transaxle replace a 7a64084090 transaxle? My father in law ran a lawnmower business, bought and sold mowers and parts. He recently passed away and his son and i are keeping his business up but we're still learning. Any help would be appreciated! Thanks in advance!

I know that there is a snap ring probably holding it in I see that much but what steps or technique did you use to pull the shaft out

Okay once you took the fan off and the pulley off of the drive shaft going into the top of the transmission how did you take that shaft out before you were able to pull out the hydro pump

Wat machine did this come off of ?

Service Manual, parts diagram and answers to all the unanswered questions: don't get me wrong, Joe did a great job, this is manufacturer info to fill in the blanks: www.powerequipmentdirect.com/manuals/cub-cadet-b3499107c9f5da6daf2fd6056070ff75.pdf

Just did it with a rope.... worked perfectly. Thank You.

very good. I am also inspecting the internals for this same 310-510 hydro gear. one suggestion that you touched on: yes, it is very important to maintain a dust and dirt free environment. I used alcohol to clean everything inside...alcohol at the 90 percent concentration is cheap at walmart. Use compressed air to blast out all the old oil first, then use the alcohol to loosen up the fine metal debris inside. I did not replace my filter. I just rinsed it really well with alcohol. I replaced all the seal. I used saran wrap to protect the seals when sliding over axles and and threaded posts. I also used alcohol to remove all the old silicone along with a scrotchbrite pad. I used permatex blue as a threadlocker for the two bolts...followed the manual and used a proper torque bar! I also used permatex ultra grey for the case sealant. The trick is to let the sealant cure for about 20-30 minutes and then tighten the bolts down. I followed the manual for torque pattern and torque values. Because it's a clam shell, I used a step up torgue method. By this I mean I torqued all the bolts down to 80 percent of the rated torque values, and then gradually increased the torque settings stepping up all the way to the stated torqued. In this way, you are less likely to cause the cases to warp and close at different rates. This also helps to mash the sealant correctly and evenly. I let the case sealant cure for 48 hours before adding oil. I put the case in a warm area to make sure the sealant cured properly. Note: try to avoid putting too much sealant in the case mating surfaces. only need about a 1/16 of and inch thickness! I used a small chemical brush to paint the mating surfaces. If some of the sealant went over the inside edge of the case, I removed that with a easy finger wipe. It's asking for problems having sealant "dangling" inside the case. and then the most important part: after you fill with 20W50 oil, you MUST purge all the air from the pump! This involves removing any load from the transaxle. (off the ground, no tires mounted). In this way, you move the oil into the pump and purge all the air from the system, without causing lots of stress on the pump when it has no oil and lots of air inside! . What I did was attach my electric drill to the input shaft pulley nut and moved the bypass valve to open (first).. I started off slow and moved transmission from forward to reverse about 50 times while spinning the input shaft. After the first 20 times, then I put the drill in medium speed. For the last 10, I went full speed on the drill. If you want to actually see this air being purged remove the oil expansion tank line and put it in a glass jar full of 20W50 oil. You will be able to see the air bumbles in the glass jar. After those 50 times I then moved the bypass valve back to normal drive and did the same process...also unloaded, no wheels attached..off the ground. Do this another sequence and make sure the bubbles stop happening in the glass jar. When the bubbles stop, then put the oil line back into the expansion tank...make sure to fill the expansion tank at least 2/3 so that the oil tube is submerged in oil! Then give it a test run under load, wheels on. for my hydrogear, the only thing keep it cool was a rather small plastic fan. So I made sure I cleaned the transmission case as best as I could to remove any sludge, dirt and oil ...in this way, it can radiate heat way more efficiently.

Late af but i have to ask is that a slip on or a full set?

My thrust bearing on input shaft /pump was blown out.

I have a broken cradle bearing and the manual is saying its only available with a new case, but I found the cradle bearings sold separately. Have you ever replaced those? Not sure if they just rest there in the case or if they are adhered in some kind of way.

red thread lock comes out easily if you heat the bolt, i think thats literally what the package says to do to remove it.

The Hydro-Gear link is no longer available. Do you have the torque specs you used for the case bolts? Your video was fantastic. I have this exact one I’m working on. I followed you on here. Thanks

Thanks for the video. My son is building a mud mower and it has this transaxle. He is wondering if it could be lockered. I see that it can be done. Thanks 😊

No bullshit intro or excessive rambling just stright to the point, best video on youtube 👍👍

I watch this video years ago when I was working on Cub cadet I recently acquired a whites mower and this is still really the only rebuild video that shows in detail I don't know how it doesn't have more views and more likes

Where do you put the fluid into one of these?

Thank you for the video. Liked your stand. I had made small bench for a project that's done. So I jig sawed a aprox.14" hole to hold the trans-axle. I have to redo cause it must of had water hiding some where. I was just going to change the oil and look inside. But new oil turned foamy. So now have to get the seal set. And thank you for the link, also.

I'll echo what lots of other folks have said. Nine years after posting, your video is still helping garage mechanics like myself. Mine too had a loose check valve. I also copied your wooden jig, which make things a bunch easier. Thanks man!

Good teaching style. Informative, encouraging.

Does anyone know the torque values of the case

I having problem with hydro that when you push it in forward it doesn't go until you pusher shifter far enough it jumps into gear

Hey Joe. Awesome video. I have mine apart, but having trouble getting the input shaft out. You mentioned “with a little effort” and you can get it out. Any trick there? I am stuck there. Appreciate any suggestions.

Joe, Thanks so much for your vids. I have refurbed hundreds of mowers for a hobby but as you know, the transaxle is rarely a problem. I have a Hydro-Gear that I'm about to tear apart - like yours. My question, I've checked everything external but if I hold one wheel up and the other on the ground, I can spin the elevated one freely. Swap them around and again, one in air spins freely. Seems like this should be impossible. Suggestions??? the hydro doesn't work but barely in normal operation. My thanks. Scott

Great video been looking for this for a while when I separated the case the shaft came out with the case now I can't get it back together now the shaft won't go all the way down into the slines

You’re a genius man!!!! Actually made me feel like a dumb ass 😂

Wow.. you’re the smartest guy on earth right now.. thanks for sharing

Money! Thanks

Thanks!!

This is the best video I've seen for this rebuild anywhere on the net

Bravo !

Thank you very much for posting your video back in 2013. It encouraged me to pull my trans axle and sure enough one of the check valves had backed out like in your case. Just ordered the parts needed for reassembly for $63. Saved me a ton of dough on a new trans axle or new zero turn. For that I'm grateful - appreciate you posting your experience.

Greatest invention for lawn mowers hands down.

Awesome video Joe

Hi Joe, great video. Mine is the exact unit. I only took the cover off because I needed to change the seals as I have a leak. I wanted to put the cover back on temporarily but it stayed about an inch or so apart (wouldn't come back together). It seems like the Output shaft was the culprit not seated correctly. It must have come up a bit with when I took the cover off. I tried and tried to slowly rotate it to fit the spline properly to no avail. I know its not seated because the gear on it doesn't even touch the gear next to it, never mind fit into each other. FYI when I took the output gear out and back into the hole it seems that what ever is in there is at an angle that I can move with the output shaft itself but still won't go down any further. Any thoughts or suggestions. Im very patient and keep trying to rotate it but its not going in properly. Thanks for any info from anyone.

I picked up a mower with this transmission - I drove it around my yard, then I stopped.. now it won't go into gear and won't unlock for pushing.. Do you think just changing the oil may fix it? Or do you think something more serious is the problem.. If I change the oil, what should I use and how much should I put in?

2021 Wow.

2021 Great clip. Fantastic dog.

Thats a 1984 Monark 14.5'. The engine is an 82, I believe

What year is the boat, I have the same exact one. Just curious

This is gold! 100% likes as deserved. This really saved me. An additional trick I did was for the hard to reach springs I used a flexible grabber/pickup tool to reach further in tight areas with the cord as well as to retain a fixed loop/bite on the cord for where I wanted it to wrap the spring. Once the cord was placed around the spring I would remove the grabber tool and pull on the spring with the cord as instructed.

Thank you! thank you! thank you! so much!

Dude thank you so much lmfao i was tryna use plyers on my dirtbike exhaust. you rule

God bless you! Why was this video so hard to find. The manual says its non serviceable. Which lend's you to believe it is rocket science or disposable.

Hey Joe, Thanks for doing this video. Believe it or not iv'e searched a week for info on my Hydro Gear 351-0510 before i came across this video.. Mine looks the same as yours but has an oil expansion tank. Went to cut grass, it would not pull and the release valve didn't let the tractor roll free in forward or reverse. I did find however that the brake had seized up upon trans removal and think that the pump and motor had overworked themselves on my last cutting. when the trans cooled down the pistons are probably seized in place too. i'll get back about my finding. One other note, my oil was clear and full. Thanks again.