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Thank you, 1/3 scale Balsa USA will be a sweet build. Have fun 😊

Yes, the nitrate should be thinned with a thinner. There is some flexibility regarding how much thinner you use for subsequent coats. When applying the nitrate, aim for it to flow out evenly; adjust the amount of thinner to achieve a smooth finish. If the nitrate is too thick, brush strokes will be visible.

Glad you found it useful, it's my pleasure to share info in this hobby. Rick

Glad you're enjoying it, thank you for the comment. Rick

I have used this on 25-pound airplanes. While I don't know the maximum weight capacity, I have made these for other modellers who use them on 30-35 pound. airplanes.

That's definitely another way of doing it. Although when it comes to tracing out the templates onto the wood. It's a bit easier with mylar due to the stiffness and thickness.

In the past, I have offered short kits for modellers, and I may do so again in the near future. A short kit includes parts that need to be cut into specific shapes. However, you will still need to obtain your own sheeting and sticks, which should be cut to size during the building process. There are several suppliers of balsa wood, including hobby shops and vendors who specialize in balsa wood material. Overall, a short kit helps to minimize shipping costs and simplifies the cutting of intricate shapes. To get an idea of the parts of the short kit for the Sweet & Low you may want to watch Episode 1 of the Sweet & Low build. Here is the link: ruclips.net/video/rvYx12VCoZ0/видео.html

Thank you for the comment, Rick

Glad you find my channel useful, the Sweet & Low build is geared in assisting builders. Happy building. Rick

One thing about this hobby is it's a never ending learning experience, including myself. Rick

If you are using the door you will be fine. However make sure when you place the door on the table that the door is shimmed level. This will allow you to use a level during your building process.

I purchase my fibreglass cloth from "Thunderbolt RC". The cloth is excellent quality. Also they give very good service-quick shipping.

Hi Collin, Glad you found it useful. Rick

The wing is epoxied together, as per kit instructions. However if I were to build one again I would redesign the wing to accommodate a two piece mount/tube design. Here is a video were I describe how it's joined. ruclips.net/video/TJbW0eqc2MA/видео.html

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Hi Steve, Blaze Glaze No. 26116 is made by USC. Many automotive parts retailers sell it. I wouldn't recommend buying from Amazon as it's ridiculously expensive there.

Thank you, 😊

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I agree, I never thin epoxy. Rick

The Stix-It contains very little butyrate and is the only case where you can apply nitrate. The fabric acts as a barrier up to a point. If you have layers of a butyrate surface and then apply nitrate on top, they will react and ruin the surface. In other words, there's no problem using the Stix-It and then coating the fabric with nitrate.

Thank you for the comment. 😊

I agree.....Building your own airplane can be therapeutic and rewarding. Not only do you learn valuable skills, but you also have the ability to repair the model if needed. Finally, being able to fly the airplane is the icing on the cake. 😊

I'm glad you found the video helpful. Thank you for your comment.

Hi Mike, I'm glad you found the video useful. Rick

Thank you for the comment and being a subscriber. I appreciate it. Rick

I don't use it. One reason is that most of my friends who do use it paint the model with latex or acrylic paint, which is water-based like polycrylic. This Sweet & Low model is powered by a glow engine. The above paints wouldn't be fuel-proof with glow fuel, especially the higher nitro types. I'm curious what type of paint do you use as a final coat?

@@rcflyingwithrick Ahhh that makes sense! I don’t do nitro anymore mostly big gassers. Stearman was polycrylic 2 coats, white primer(actually used rattle can) then PPG single stage Urethane automotive paint. Then a few warbirds I’ve done polycrylic to adhere the fabric/partial weave fill, then a layer of West Systems slow over it. I have done 2 stage Urethane with clear coat, although it turns out amazing in my opinion it’s not worth the extra work and definitely not the extra weight.

My buddies use a similar process as you mention. I have also used latex on my gas engine powered planes such as this 1/4 scale Fokker Dr1. Here is a link to the Fokker. ruclips.net/video/XUxOF5FRGW0/видео.html

@@rcflyingwithrick Amazing workmanship. Thank you for hosting these informative videos. I hope it encourages more people to try and build it themselves over buying an ARF. One can take much more satisfaction if it was something you put together yourself.

Hi Terry, The Sweet & Low series was created with the intention of keeping the project relatively simple and inspiring others to try building a balsa model airplane. Thank you for sharing your techniques; it's always great to hear how other modelers do things. This hobby is always a learning experience, and I appreciate your comments. Rick

Your welcome. Glad you found the video useful. Rick

Hi Craig, Thank you for your comment. Rick

Happy to hear the video is useful. Thanks for the comment. Rick

You can use a squeegee, but be careful not to move the fibreglass fabric or to stretch it. Also to accomplish a perfectly level surface and not to remove too much resin. However, I find that using bathroom tissue paper is very effective in removing just the right amount of resin and keeping the surface perfectly level. It's also easy to remove the resin by just throwing the paper away. This method works well for beginners in glassing. In the end, it all comes down to personal preference.Thanks for asking. Rick

Hi Mike, I use this type of surface preparation on almost all the airplanes I work on. It provides a significant amount of strength to the airframe, helping it withstand flight loads and preventing damage from hangar rash during transport. I have airplanes that are 30 years old, and you wouldn't be able to tell. Additionally, there is minimal weight penalty if applied correctly. If your model is meant to have a metal surface, the smooth finish is ideal for adding details such as panel lines and rivets. Definitely give it a try....cheers, Rick

@rcflyingwithrick i sure will. Yes it's metal with fabric on the tail surfaces. And ailerons. It'll be first time trying for a scale look. I am in the process of building it right now. Thanks.

I'll check it out on your channel 👍😊

@rcflyingwithrick sweet the first video should be coming out in the next couple weeks.

Glad you like it. Thank you for the comment. Rick

Thank you for sharing your method on making cowlings. Glad you found the video useful. Let me know how you make out making a round cowl. cheers, Rick

Glad you like the videos, thank you for the comment. Rick

Thank you very much for your comment, glad you like them. Rick

Thank you very much for your comment, glad you like them. Rick

Thank you for your comment, glad you found it useful. Rick

Hi Dave, Yes you can use the tissue paper process. Good luck with your project. Thanks for the comment. Rick

Hi Glen, Good question, this is one of those subjects that have many opinions on the preference amongst modellers. They all have their merit and it ultimately becomes a personal choice. Here are a few aspects of the pull pull system. The pull-pull system is well suited for "larger airplanes with a large rudder" like the Sweet & Low airplane. To me, the advantage of a pull-pull system is the load and action, movement, are equal each way. A push rod system can have a greater chance of giving an unequal movement if there are any bends/bending involved, especially with large rudder deflections during aerobatic flying. i.e. knife edge flight. A piano wire-type push rod is good in the pull direction, but possibly prone to bending in the push direction. The other difference is the rudder servo can be placed close to the CG area versus where the servo is placed at the tail section with a short pushrod. When the rudder is in the neutral position the cable tension is set to have equal tension minimizing the risk of flutter. A pull-pull system is lighter for the same distance as compared to a pushrod system. Also, a pull-pull system lends itself to a multiple-servo system if required. For the most part smaller aircraft can easily utilize a pushrod for the rudder without any problems. You may want to have a look at carbon fibre pushrods here is the link: ruclips.net/video/4jItHhFiseA/видео.html. Thank you for the comment. Rick

@@rcflyingwithrick Well thanks for taking the time to clear that up! 👍 Cheers!

Thank you for your comment, I appreciate it. 😊 Glad you enjoy the videos. Rick

Thank you for your comment, glad you like it. Rick

At least I'm not alone, lol As RC modellers we have to be creative, no doubt there are many ways to get the job done. 👍

This will undoubtedly be an exciting project, especially at the 1:3.5 scale. cheers Rick

Thank you for the comment. :) Rick

I have also used the dowel for this purpose, which is a good method. Thank you for mentioning it. I will showcase this in an upcoming video. Rick

Hello John, Thank you for sharing your process of making templates. It brings back memories. I used to have a shadow box as well, but I lost it during a move. It sounds like your Howard DG-6 Mulligan will be an amazing project. I have always liked the Howard's look. I knew someone who owned a full-scale Howard DG-15, and it was quite challenging to handle in a crosswind. Regards, Rick

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When it comes to foam, there are many types to choose from. Using foam with a smooth surface, such as the blue type, is a good choice. I personally use epoxy resin by "West System" and have never had a problem with it. Additionally, if you're concerned about the foam reacting in any way, you can coat it with a couple of coats of white latex paint. If you're unsure about how your resin and foam will interact, it's always a good idea to do a sample test first.