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I have learned much at RUclips University!

Hi, Stacked! About that broken plastic handle, I've never been able to find out how to order replacement parts for Tool Shop products.

@@MarkBeuligmann yeah I fixed one by putting a little set screw through it and it works fine now, the other one I rarely use so it's not too bad, I'm sure if I could find a replacement they would just strip out again

@@FalgunPatel1 Not sure what to make of this comment...

Oh you suggested tape. Really seems like it should be fixed. The pics on amazon show a squarish nut type thing on the end with the screw. Hmm. I'll try out the tape you mentioned.

Esmeraldo, while the miter gauge should slide freely in the slot, it shouldn't wobble. It definitely wobbles unless you add metal tape to one or both sides. I agree that you shouldn't have to modify the bar to have it fit properly. There are two screws on top of the miter gauge. The phillips screw head allows for setting the gauge for accurate angles. The other "screw" is the large orange plastic knob that should tighten the gauge to the bar after you select an angle. Is that what you were asking?

John, it may not be the laser itself that is bad. The lasers are powered by two AA batteries in a compartment just behind the front pulley under the drill press's top cover. I'd check the batteries before buying another laser. My right laser becomes erratic when the batteries fall below a certain voltage. If changing the batteries doesn't fix it, I'd also remove the battery compartment and check the connections underneath. You'll probably have to remove the front pulley to get at all of it. I tell you all this because it will be a while before I have time to produce a video. Let me know if any of this works!

Thanks, Matt! I'm sure your method works fine. Thanks for adding it as a resource for people viewing my video. I didn't have any old wheel weights lying around, and my band saw wheels required very light weighting. I just used what I had at hand. All these years later, my bandsaw is still balanced.

@@markbeuligmann7363 After I posted my system I got to thinking most people might not have the equiptment I have gathered over 60 years. I still have a complete cabinet shop equiped with all the tools a man needs.I should have thought about that before I posted?

Andrea, thanks for the kind words! My goal in each video is to make it concise and practical. No fancy intros, no fluff. Just useful content.

I looked around for new rails, too, but ended up staying with the originals. I incorporated a DIY live center at the tail stock made from a brass bushing and countersink bit from Ace Hardware (Thanks, Lumberjocks!). It works, but tends to get wobbly after a few uses. Not a perfect solution. I've also found that it's a bit of a problem to keep the tail stock tight into the workpiece. The feature I liked most was the ability to turn long workpieces. You can turn a baseball bat in this lathe!

I made a simple dead center by turning an archery field point in a drill. Live centers are better, but millions of pieces have been turned on dead centers throughout history.@@markbeuligmann7363

Can you describe exactly what needs to be unlocked?

@@markbeuligmann7363 never mind. Figured it out. Thanks

ZenSPIKE, do you have exactly the same saw? I can't picture the part you're describing. If you can, send a photo to markbeul@gmail.com.

Paul, thanks for the question! I have to admit that I don't deal with plane blades, so I don't consider myself a proper resource for sharpening them. Having said that, I would loosen the jig table, lay a plane blade on it that already has the correct angle, and set it against the wheel in such a way as to maintain that angle while sharpening. You would probably be better off, though, if you looked around for a video on plane blade sharpening. Best of luck!

Go for it! My old router sat for quite a while before I attempted this fix.

Cobar, I made a second video on this topic. Maybe that will help.

I had a look, thanks. My saw has a different spring. It has been fixed now. Thanks for the reply@@markbeuligmann7363

Bobbi, are you sure you meant this comment for this video?

Dave, was your comment meant for this video?

@@markbeuligmann7363 it sure was!

OK, maybe I'm being obtuse, but I don't understand what the "highly irregular" refers to. Help me, Rhonda!@@carlson.douglas.w

Just a little light hearted teasing, Mark, as the first few seconds of the video sounds a little bit like HAL9000. (Its a fine and informative video, and i appreciate that you did it. Just thought I'd have a little fun with my comment) Take care!

I remember when I recorded the voice prompts for the phone system auto-attendant where I worked. I had to speak with what felt like a heightened animation in order for the result not to sound sleepy. Thanks! @@carlson.douglas.w

Jcobcruz, while you will be able to turn wood, you will have to keep a close eye on the live center. It tends to loosen up during operations. The brass bushing is not a perfect fit for the shaft of the countersink bit, so you could experience slight wobbling. Finally, it's hard to firmly anchor the bushing in the tailstock bolt. I've even tried epoxy. It only lasts for a while. It's better if you grind the countersink shaft as short as possible and also the bushing.

You're most welcome!

Sorry, I haven't kept up replying to comments on my videos. I hope this one was helpful to you.

Thanks, Chris! Your first sentence has been my goal for all my videos. I'm in my seventies, still working 6 days a week, and I don't have time for videos in which the guy leaves the camera running for 70 seconds while he runs off to find a tool.

Umbrella, it is possible to keep opened poly for months, but I couldn't guarantee consistent results. The more air in the can, the more likely your poly will skin over. One secret is to keep the lid and the surface it contacts absolutely free of dried poly. Any dried poly will distort the lid and admit air into the can.

Thanks! God's Green World?

Andy, mine is a PerformaX six-inch grinder with soft-start. I got it for $20 several years ago. It has fully wrapped grinding wheels, safety shields, and even a light on a flexible stalk. The stand cost me $26. Great value.

Feldspar, thanks! The idea was not original with me, I'm sure, but I thought I'd pass it along.

Thanks, Jimmy! Caution noted.

Hi, paulshaw! I took a photo of the piece you're referring to, but there doesn't seem to be a way to attach it to this reply. It's a locking screw for the tailstock shaft. It looks like the screw of a pipe vise and has a sliding handle just like one, just on a smaller scale. Hope that helps!

Thank you Mark I need to find one, my spur for tailstock moves away from the wood piece, and the wood is flying off the lathe. I found a tailstock 9n e bay that has that lock so I may order it Thanks again

Thanks for the comment, Eric! Caution noted.

I don't know how you would remove the poly without damaging the paint as well. Sorry.

Missclimpson, could you describe how you try to set a bevel?

Patricia, I make every effort to keep the lid and the top of the can clean. I never shake or turn the can upside down. I also don't wipe the brush on the inside lip of the can. If the lid gets spots of dried poly on it, it won't seal. That can cause air leaks that lead to the poly skinning over. Hope that helps.

@@markbeuligmann7363 Thank you!

Thanks for the comment! Happy hobbying.

Colin, sorry but I'm not familiar with the Ozito saw. I Googled to find a manual, but I'm not sure it's the same model. I would probably have to see the miter saw itself to diagnose the problem.

@@markbeuligmann7363 Thanks for the reply Mark. The guard return spring plate assembly is very similar to the one in your video clip above. The end of the link arm applies pressure to the tab on the spring retaining plate, which is on the inside of the guard. In our assembly the link arm seems to be losing contact with the Tab, which leads to the guard jamming. I'm planning to have another look at the assembly tomorrow. Shall take pics , which may help unravel this enigma!

Correct, Edot! I had to adjust mine, and it went pretty well to the limit of adjustment.

Bitemyran, I'm not sure I understand what's happening to your boards, but I will tell you what I can. You are correct that the outfeed table on the left is not adjustable. The infeed table on the right, however, is adjustable. If you remove the three bolts and lift off the granite table, you will be able to see the mounting plate underneath. The two large hex-head mounting screws on the right can be raised and lowered to make the infeed table parallel in both directions to the outfeed table (left to right, and front to back). Be sure to loosen the small set screws before trying to turn the mounting screws. I was able to set the infeed table parallel to the outfeed table perfectly by first setting the depth-of-cut adjuster to zero, then adjusting the mounting screws (trial and error) until I could set a level across both tables. Let me know if you have any further questions.

Rod, I should be able to respond in a day or so. On my way to work...

Rod, I have put a new video on this channel that shows how to reassemble the bandsaw fence. It's called Bandsaw Fence Assembly. One correction - The washer I put under the clamp lever was less for proper adjustment than for smoother operation. I recommend fine-tuning the clamping pressure by turning the head end of the long bolt 1/4 turn in the outboard clamp. You will note that the bolt is square just under the head, and the hole in the clamp is also square. Just loosen the clamp lever until you can push the bolt out enough to turn it. Turn counter clockwise to loosen and clockwise to tighten. You have it right when the fence locks down firmly while the lever hangs straight down.

@@markbeuligmann7363 . Thankyou Mark. All repaired and operational. Great stuff, thanks again.