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Thank you for this video. I could not have done the job without your insights and attention to details. I was beginning to think that I bit off more than I can chew. Thank you.

Great video but have come into some issues when reinstalling belt, all timing marks where lined up till belt was on fully. Cams lined up but the crank was couple mm off. Appreciate some guidance

One shot ball joint separation?

I leave grease on the zerk on purpose it keeps the b.b. on it from rusting and seizing closed I can wipe the old grease off before I grease it next time but I can’t get the rust out or un seize it

I ordered this kit due to the price . I know it says “Asian “ but it’s Asian of USA . I’ve bought the parts from the dealer in the past and they are of better quality. The belt alone is 100 bucks almost. I paid like 850 before . The idlers are like 250 alone . I still recommend this kit because the price was good and it didn’t leak after install. I just don’t think I’ll use it for the 90k mile intervals.

From experience I can say it is never a good idea to use a chain wrench on something like a metal drive pulley for exactly the reason shown at 21:05, those marks will slowly and eventually ruin the acc. belt. Now you need to file down those imperfections, or just use a leather or nylon/canvas strap wrench.

why did you not set the cam sprockets to the T mark and the crank pulley to the white dot or other mark?

Did you have a heat shield thre to take off?

Great vid! Straight to the point and hits all the important stuff. For anyone reading this also applies to the 4wd version of the same truck, just doesn't include removing the cv axle, which is pretty simple in itself. Zap off the 6 15mm bolts holding the cv axle to the diff, pull that side off and let it fall in the open space of the control arm after you remove the stabilizer link, then pull the 36mm axle nut and it should slide right out. A punch and hammer can help if it isn't cooperating. Never hammer on anything threaded though, that's why the punch is handy. Or if no punch is handy, thread the axle nut back on just a bit and hammer on it lightly... punch is preferable.

I did a lot of hot rodding when I was a kid but had to give it up for construction. Now I have to hot rod again because Toyota fees are crazy and I can easily tell you are as good as a mechanic gets and maybe the best in showing a complex job. You pointed out some small things that could be a big problem. Thanks for that. This is going to be a favorite channel.

I have watched this video 10 times, I just enjoy it so much and its just so great! I love your work guys, thank you. you guys are amazing.

Great Video. Need Help. my timing belt broke. I do I put the cams in time.

Highly recommended to flush radiator and trans fluids- drain- remove radiator and fan assembly(grille too) replace that fan clutch and radiator and -trans & radiator fluids to go with such an important job.. also the best time to replace leaky power steering unit/water/oil pump and sloppy steering rack unit

There are a few Toyota timing belt water pump instructional install videos on RUclips, but this is one of the best. Great job!

How do you remove the axle if the inner part didn't fall apart

How did u rotate the cam

Great vid.

Drain the two coolant block drains as well as radiator. Remove radiator then fan shroud to easily remove fan clutch and a 25 dollar fan clutch wrench works like a champ with it.

Whats the t marks for

Best vid so far thanks for all the torque specs

mmmh as I watched...it escalated quickly 😅

Just screw in two wheel bolts and block the axel wit a screwdriver in the brakerotor against the brake

I am not due for a timing belt replacement for another 40k miles but I am thankful for this detailed upload. If this video exists a couple years ago I feel like I could have done the job myself.

Well at least when I pay over $1k I now have a better understanding of why I am paling so much.

Great Video, 615,000 on my 2001 owned since new, doing everything on the car myself now and this is the next one. This is going to be a great help!!

I don't have to remove the caliper? I know you didn't but I'm just curious. A shop quoted me $2800 bucks and I can't afford that. Both of mine are bad I have the same A4 as the one your working on in the video

Is it that easy to change would I need to have both sides jacked up or can you do it with just one side jacked up

THANKS ALOT TOYOTA FOR THIS SHITTY ENGINE DESIGN.

I freakin love how dude man is explaining everything and going into super detail!! I got a 2000 tundra

Some kits come with cam shaft seals....what do you think about replacing those while its all apart?

No help at all

325k miles on our 01. On its 3rd timing belt, water pump, etc. If I were in Cali I would confidently let you work on our old Land Cruiser. Superb skill set.

170k on my 4Runner, I’ve owned it since 20k and obviously have been avoiding this - it’s been on borrowed time and wayyyy overdue - appreciate the info!

Can you please list the tools shown at the beginning of the video? TIA!

I don’t understand the 180 degree step. I thought that you already tight it with the tork wranch.

Great job, thank you.

Did you reuse the flange bolts?

I will be doing mine in the coming days. This is a very informative video that will prepare me for the job. Thank you for this video.

Is this the same for a Honda?

Thank you for this EXCELLENT tutorial, it will come in very handy when my timing belt requires replacement on my low mileage '06 Lexus LS430 with its 3UZ-FE engine, which is nearly identical to the 2UZ-FE you worked on. 👍

thank you sir very informative 😊

Do you have a shop in Los Angeles area? Would like to have my 2002 LX470 done. Very informative video. Thanks.

Timing is spot on.