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So option 1 i use a no restriction air filter which will then allow the coil to get covered and filled with dust, dander etc requring frequent servicing as it will reduce efficiency pretty fast, or i can get a pleated filter which restricts the airflow some but protects the coil. Seems more logical to get a lower merv pleated change out frequently. $120 in filters a year is better than a $250 service call fee and $300 a coil cleaning fee yearly.

Those are 440s (12")

Absolutely right. But few will listen thanks to Big Air Filter marketing. They want us to buy their more expensive high-MERV filters "to protect our health," but it's really just to protect their profits. 🤷‍♂️

Please recommend a fiberglass filter.

Project Farm Filter Test. ruclips.net/video/RkjRKIRva58/видео.htmlsi=ABCSaprx9Ail4Vbq

Should you put a filter (cheap one you mentioned) in air input and the hvac filter as well?

In an industry that only seeks experience people, it's not a wonder why there's a job shortage with the younger generation.

Every hvac/plumbing place is hiring experienced guys. If you’ve got experience you can get a job anywhere in the country.

at $16 per elbow how is this better?

Cheep Filter and add a Air Purifier .....

Let the experiment be made. I would much rather clean the siphon once in a year, than 360 days play with that spoon

why did he drill a hole in the pipe? what is the purpose of that, may i ask?

I guess this was some kind of race? As an instructional video, it was pretty useless.

Great video full of good information. I live in hot South Texas. I notice that two years using 1" x 20 x 20" k&n washable filters both on my HVAC room door filter and another in the unit, I'm starting to hear condensation running down the pipes way more often than usual. So I decided to take them out and replaced them with merv 1 fiberglass filters, one on the door and two in the unit that have two slots. Wow! The amount of air flow is incredible. Do you recommend this or should I take one of the filters on the unit out? Thanks in advance.

Hello, I was analyzing your RUclips channel and found some problems If you fixed that problems, then your RUclips video ranked on RUclips and you will get more subscribers and video views. Blow I found your channel issue: Your SEO Score is low Your subscribers is Low Your video views is low Video Title is not SEO friendly. There is no video tags. Description is too short. No End Screen added.

Thats a radon reduction system…

That was a great example . Thanks for showing this

What self-rinsing DIY evap/condensor cleaner do you recommend and how often should you use it? I've used NuCalgon and Simply Green, results were ok. Thank you sir.

so many factor that make filter flow slow... dirty, high density, .. which one u want to make important, so gust changed it often nothing will caused by filter.

It'll all looks good!!! I'd put a union instead of a coupling at the end to make maintenance easier but everyone's different

4:10, excellent point you make

But why feature the baby? What do babies know about plumbing?

All those see-through filters do is allow dirt and pollen to get through and build up on the blower and other internal parts. Then guys like this come to your house and charge your 2-3 thousand dollars to fix or replace them.

Communications line encasrment crushed my brothers sewer line 15 years after it was installed. It was still copper wire and settled over time. They came out and dug up, raised the conduit repaiired the sewer line. Rebedded the conduit on rock, backfilled and installed new tutf.

Good job man I LOVE YOUR CONTENT ITS SO COOL TO SEE HOW PIPES WORK ALSO GET YOUR DOG OFF THE FENCE PLS

Love to see this . Some of my coworkers don’t even use primer smh

Pretty cool

Serious Q. Do you actually "deburr" the pex tubing??

Everything in the video is spot-on! Also, the purpose of a furnace filter is to keep the furnace clean. It's not intended to improve the air quality of your house although filter manufacturers market them as such to be able to sell them for more profit. If you need to improve the air quality in your house then you need a dedicated air purifier with a Hepa filter.

Is that camera a Ridgid mini ? If so, do you ever struggle getting it out Long distances? I’m considering buying one just don’t wanna waste time If it’s not gonna at least go out 150 feet on residential 4 inch

All furnaces for the last 15 yrs if not more have an info tag somewhere in the unit. On this tag you will find the most important # for your furnace on it. That # is "maximum static pressure". At no time did i hear a reference to static pressure in this explanation! Proper sizing of ductwork is the "make or break" reason for good vs bad static pressure. Low static pressure is good, high static pressure is bad! The final piece of the puzzle for your furnace (a/c) is the filter. Any good furnace tech you are paying should do 1 thing before they do anything on your call. That is check TESP and check pressure drop across filter before any thing else is done. To test this he must use a manometer. (U-tube, inclined, magnehelic or digital) If tech does/tells you anything without having tested for pressure they are hacks. Poorly sized/ducted furnaces will have high static pressure. A filter can(& should) be spec'd to your furnace using manometer to determine which filter will be the best for your particular application. (re: filter "merv" rating) The primary difference between a 1"filter and a 5" filter is lower pressure and longevity re: increased surface area of filter media. Couple of side notes: - fiberglass 1" filters are useless (unless you're trying to stop bugs and birds) - plugged filters (dirty) do not strain the blower motor (or make it work harder) Check amperage load on dirty vs clean. Less air re: dirty = lower amperage More air re: clean = higher amperage. As mentioned by at least 1 other comment here. Primary objective of filter is to protect the furnace itself. Secondary is to filter the air you breath.

Keeping it clean!

Plumbers hate it cause they not making a fortune off of ppl.

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So fast..Tornado

Shark bites are great for quick temporary repairs, great for long term repairs that are easily accessible. But for everything else there’s better longer lasting solitions

TRASH BRO!!!!

*if they are up to code, good enough for me*

I remember when plumbers said pex was never gonna replace copper!!!🙄😂👍

Still better than electricians

Yeah plumbers like proprrss though

"We dont like Shark Bites" We get less work

Its cheaper to do it in copper .

They don't like them because anybody can be a plumber

The reason u guys hate them because you miss a crucial part, once it's at the line pull away from material to lock teeth in and you will never have a fail again. I wish I were wrong but I'm not.

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Hi

Plumbers hate them cause they can’t rape customers anymore

Here are the CORRECT instructions how to do this DIY procedure. Example. Let's say you have a copper or Pex pipe. Close the MAIN water supply valve. 1. Now cut this pipe at a given location on this pipe (i.e. where you want to place the shark bite) and let the water drain in some bucket. 2. The next Very important thing to do is, NOT to "mark your pipe with a pen" about the depth of pipe that need or should insert inside the pipe (after you post the pipe in shark bit end), ...BUT.... TO actually find out, how much pipe you should cut "IN BOTH DIRECTIONS" from the cut you already made. So, for this, look step 3. 3. Now you, look at your shark bite and place the shall bite's center point, at the first cut you made on the pipe. Now mark, "both edges/ends of shark bite" sitting/aligning on the pipe. Let's call it, left mark and right mark on the pipe. Between these 2 marks you just did, there will be the first CUT you made on the pipe. 4. Now, you use the shark bite depth tool (orange color which has all the sizes 0.5" to 1.5") and insert left end of the pipe to the left side of the shark bite and see how deep it is. Mark this on the left pipe (after first cut) i.e. now it will be marked INSIDE between the LEFT MARK you did in step 3. Let's call it INNER-LEFT-DEPTH mark (i.e mark between the LEFT MARK from step 3 and the cut on the pipe). Do the same procedure, on the right side of the pipe, using right side of the pipe, by inserting it into the right opening of the Shark bite. After inserting that, you will now get INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH-MARK i.e. a mark between the cut of the pipe and the RIGHT MARK you got from step 3. 5. Now, USING a Scale/measurement tape, find what's the depth/measurement of "INNER- LEFT-DEPTH -to-> the cut" ... note down this number/value as LEFT VALUE. ... Let's assume this left value was 1 inch. Do the same procedure by measuring, "cut -to- INNER-RIGHT-DEPTH mark". Note this value as RIGHT value. Lets assume this right value was also 1 inch. 6. Now wipe the INNER left and INNER right marks using a wet cloth or something. 7. Go to LEFT mark (that you made in step 3) and measure "left value" from that left mark and mark it. This "new-inner-left-depth" mark is now measured from the LEFT MARK (i.e. not from the cut/center of the pipe). Do the same procedure, i.e. mark "new-inner-right-depth" mark measuring from the RIGHT mark (you did in step 3). 8. Now, use the cutter, and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-left-depth" mark and cut the pipe AT exactly on the "new-inner-right-depth" mark. THIS IS THE MOST IMPORTANT THING, I THINK NO OTHER VIDEO EXPLAINED AND it really trumps people while putting a shark bite on any plumbing pipe. 9. Using that orange tool that Shark bite company sells for finding depth of shark bite ends (i.e. how much pipe you should insert), it also has a smoothner/cutter in it, i.e. if you insert the end of pipes in that tool and rotate clockwise as listed on the tool, then it will SMOOTHEN the edges of pipe, for the new-left/right-depth end points of the pipe. Basically, what you have to do is, smoothen the edge of the pipe end points which will go inside Shark bite openings and touching the RUBBER washer/seal. 10. Now, ensure if your shark bite has any DRAIN value (that you open and let water fall down especially during winter time for sprinkler water clearing etc) you place the shark bite acc. so the drain value is always down facing. Actually shark bite can rotate 180° on the pipe after fitting it ( so that should not be a problem ). ALSO, check there is no dirt or debri inside the shark bite, after doing all this nano engineering work today first time by you. Well by now you just put the left pipe on left shark bite opening and right side of the pipe, into the right side of the shark bite opening. While inserting, the pipe will go exactly upto the left and right mark, you did in step 3. IMPORTANT: the pipes should be straight if possible like a straight line after you insert both ends in shark bite. Avoid getting any angle more than 5° i.e. after installation, the pipe with shark bite should look like 1 straight pipe, not bending unnecessarily like a bow. Basically there should NOT be any hard tension between shark bite and pipe (that you inserted inside shark bite) giving it any reason to leak water due to a bad angle and high water pressure can leak water from such bad angle. NOW have a bucket ready next to you, open the main water valve slowly, turn on water and see, if the shark bite installation was successful. Is it leaking any water from the end of the shark bite or not. If not, you just saved both TIME AND $$$$ And learned something new today.