Видео

Stopping recording in order to DO something is the worst thing you could do to us, imho. I came here to see how things come apart & go together, so I can do it once I get the visual. Like how does that clutch safety come apart? How did you actually use a hammer and nail punch to get that pin out & not lose anything? The devil is in the DETAILS!! Please don't stop an instructional "how to" video to do something & not show it.

Nice!!🎉

To actually see the work done would have helped

so you had to drill out two bolts?? they broke on the removal of the lower intake? i have one stubborn one in the back that i have been soak for a day. i might try to heat it up alittle to see if it breaks loose. i would hate for it to break on me.

How long should it take to change the clutch master cylinder

Very few videos on this, okay, i only found this one. Easy to follow, easy to fill in the gaps. Thanks for taking the time to video, looks like a pain to do, but i'm tackeling it tomorrow on a 2003. Great work and patience.

Thx

Do you have to drain the oil first

Thanks for the video, I just wanted to know how to do play the music, after you finish recording ?

Has anyone else tried this but the vehicle is still crank no start? I need help!!!

8mm, not 10mm

I have an '05 just like yours. And hats off to you it is not fun to do. The transmission cooler lines are a true joy. Getting ready to do mine.

How did you remove the old pushrod? I'm afraid to pull too hard on it so there must be an easier way, right??

You should have included how to get te shaft out of tge master cyl inside

1-What was the milage on the original sensors b4 swopping out to new ones? 2-What brand did you re-install?...how are they holding up if not original parts used Thanx

What about the passenger side with the plastic cover? Everyone shows the driver side only

First off grateful for all you fellows who put on videos to help someone out. I have something to run by you. I have a 1999 Ranger. Fellow I got it off of had put a new Clutch Master Cylinder on it. The clutch pedal only comes up half way to the break pedal. You have to push really hard on the pedal to get it in gear and takes hold right away when releasing the pedal. I figured there was still air in the lines so I took out the cylinder and bench bled it and appeared all the air was out, no more bubbles. I put it back in and bled the slave cylinder. Pedal still half way up and can not get it in gear. Figured wrong master cylinder, thinking the push rod was to short reason pedal only half way up. So I ordered a new one OEM ford product. It is exactly the same as the aftermarket one that is on there. So question is. Why would pedal still be half way up when connected. Assuming pedals are supposed to be same height. When connecting the rod I have to push the pedal down to meet rod length causing half pedal. In my pea brain I can't think just getting all the air out would give you more pedal travel. Shouldn't the pedals be the same height before you even started the bleeding processed. I am stumped. Again thanks for what you do on here

I appreciate the video - I am curious as to where you mounted the oil catch can - Thank you

U told us absolutely nothing 🤷🏾‍♂️

They can be so hard to bleed that they sell a Master cyc kit that is Pre bleed from the factory

Bro eres lo máximo de verdad amo esa motoo tengo una del mismo color si no la usas vendemela por favor

Do you need to add more oil?

hey man i got a 02’ 5spd rwd 3.0 id assume the process is pretty much the same since ur trans has the same cylinder placement?

I like how the little boy knows the first thing to do is make sure it’s got gas in it. 😆👍

Good job! My question is what did you shine your engine up with that makes it look wet and shiny?

That was super helpful

How did you remove the left bolt of the crankshaft sensor without removing the belt? I'm working on a 2006 sorento and the left bolt is hitting the belt. I cant take it out.

You really should use a torque wrench to tighten your plugs to spec

Don't you need two?

Bro the manual said the gap should be between: .030-.033 in or 0.75-0.85 mm. F-150 3.5 2018. Full of respect to you but why .028 in?

there is no such word as tooken

what about the other side ?

the problem is this is an engine designed to be mounted for front wheel drive that they turned 90 degrees and crammed into these trucks without changing much. so that last sparkplug is terrible to get out, and the knock sensor. let's not forget how tight the starter motor is in there too. thanks for the video, I've been trying to figure out exactly where the knock sensor was located, so that I could find the wiring harness connection!

Thanks this was a great help.

Thanks

My 1994 ranger needs a master cylinder replacement and this truck looks just like mine helpful video

I was able to replace my camshaft sensor without removing anything except the cover. Looks like a lot of work removing all that stuff😅

What catch can brand did you use?

How did you get the flutter

You Are my hero. Bro thanks so much for your video my name is Conrad you are the. Bomb!

You did not show how you were able to get the part up enough to twist it into position.

Thanks guys. I'm about to do one this evening after work. I appreciate your video. Thank you

Did not see you do anything.

18 builds boost in park? mine won’t

Didn't show how to remove the master cylinder or any of the actually important parts that are difficult.

Thanks for the video

good job !!!

hello, i have a kia sorento 2007 model 2.5l 170hp when cold it start from the first crank but when it's warm tha car crank a little bit more to start there is no check engine light no injector problem i tested them from where the problem can be thank you

Man that looks like a head ache. I think I’ll just get rid of it😊

Did this fix the problem you were having?