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Still one of the best sounding, biggest sounding and most dynamic speakers I've ever designed or heard. Keep in mind the directivity of the Seos24 will be tough to match with a 6" or 8", ideally two 12" side by side would match well, or like what you see here with the horn that had a very similar directivity match to the Seos24.

@@javadshadzi4824 awesome info, thank you for the insight!

I've never found a need, the reason being the water in the glue is released when heated and steams the veneer as you bend and heat it, the heat also allows the veneer to bend too, since this I have done radiuses as tight as 3/4", never had to soften the veneer in any way.

​I'll take your advice and won't put water. Thanks a lot!😅​@@javadshadzi4824

I appreciate it!

Thanks!

Glad to hear it was helpful!

Thanks! About 550hz, see facebook.com/groups/DIYLoudspeakerProjecPad/permalink/1495070334182132/

Yeah that will work, the AMT2 will want to cross like 3-3.5khz and the RS100 is good to way past that. Here I’m crossing them at like 8khz to take over from the AMTPRO4 top end

@@javadshadzi4824 Yeah the FS looked like it would work, but I'm glad someone with real world experience can confirm that they still have good response at ~3.5khz

Not really a video editor, but complete build thread here techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1322990-mwaf-project-strafi-translam-build

They are good, you can read my thoughts here: facebook.com/groups/DIYLoudspeakerProjecPad/posts/650728491949658/

@javadshadzi4824 wow, thank you kindly, parts express is having a nice dayton driver sale right now and I've been eying the amt4pros for a while. Thanks again

@@bingdong8571 for passive crossover they are a challenge to work with, for active DSP they are very easy to deal with, they have a very fast and dynamic sound and have good sensitivity.

@@javadshadzi4824 I will be using dsp. I'm A beginner

Check here www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/135hz-segmented-horn-midbass-build.296920/

They are ported in the rear, full build thread at techtalk.parts-express.com/forum/tech-talk-forum/1322990-mwaf-project-strafi-translam-build/page14

@javadshadzi4824 the specs on this driver did look impressive for bass and midrange if tuned about 45-50 Hz. It's used in the bass guitar cab the Crazy 8. I thought about some mtm designs but looked at the price for 4 of them and decided my other kit is enough.

@@TimpBizkit they don't got real low, this speaker is good to about 45hz, but they will get louder and with more impact than any other 8" woofer I've tested or used, incredibly impressive driver. You have to hear them to believe it.

I’ve never used the 108 but the 10AK is excellent

Just a little sarcasm, I celebrate it too so don’t get too worked up 😆

Thanks for the kind words!

For a kit they're not bad, a nicely sensitive speaker that sounded good and dynamic, the crossover definitely needed some work, not sure about the Cornwall clones.

@@javadshadzi4824 awesome thanks for letting me know

I don't have that handy but you can see the whole build thread at facebook.com/groups/DIYLoudspeakerProjecPad/posts/2004918686530625/?__tn__=%2CO

Yup! Makes a quick adjustment easy =)

Thanks man!

These are just dull, they will work out of the box but cut much cleaner and faster when sharpened properly. It would be pretty silly to make a whole video about a router bit being dull when it was perfectly sharp and cut like it was 😉

These are just dull, they will work out of the box but cut much cleaner and faster when sharpened properly. It would be pretty silly to make a whole video about a router bit being dull when it was perfectly sharp and cut like it was 😉

Hello, I really like the 745PB, great driver, it is a 1.4" and the TAD is a 2" but they are very comparable in response, the TAD has a Be diaphragm which has better high frequency response above 15khz and a very detailed sound, for the price I'd say the 745 is a good option for a driver that can play 600hz and up. Also consider the Eminence N314X, excellent driver and I like that even better than the 745

Thanks! They are controlled dispersion yes, thanks to the waveguide and the 8" woofer

@@javadshadzi4824 do you prefer that over a wider dispersion speaker for more pinpoint imaging? Thank you again sir

@@Nightjar726 I honestly haven't found that one is better than the other, both can sound very good and have advantages if designed properly. A waveguide and horn give more benefits than only controlled dispersion, they can also reduce tweeter distortion and greatly lower the crossover point, all which can have huge benefits in certain designs like the HeliosCM pictured above.

This absolutely isn’t necessary or even needed, light pressure from the iron is all that’s needed to get a strong bond. What you describe, veneer scraping, is needed for contact cements to get a good bond, the iron on PVA glue method bonds through heat and melting alone.

Thanks!

They do increase inductance

@@javadshadzi4824Then I'm getting something wrong. A permanent magnet, I understood, is made of ferrite, and when you approach the coil to it, inductance lowers. And it makes sense, as the induced field has to push the existing field from the nearby magnet. This is the part I don't understand. You show inductance coming down when it sits on top of the magnet. But then, how does it come that it's said it increases inductance ?

@@fxeconomist it is because the magnetic fields are interacting and offsetting each other.

@@javadshadzi4824Well I do understand why the lowering effect, but I don't understand why it is said it increases the inductance. Let's take a simple coil, of a few turns, around a few uH. Put a ferrite coil and inductance -> increases to several mH ? or decreases by about 10%, like in your video ?

@@javadshadzi4824I'm asking because I'm making a coil myself. I got a small ceramic ring magnet, (60 mm ID, 100 mm OD). I'm gonna wind a toroidal coil around it, just one layer. Gonna take about 7-8 m of wire (2.5 sq mm copper, insulated). This is going to be magnetically attached to a larger spinning pot magnet. I want to know what inductance I can expect from the coil. I don't know if inductance will increase by hundreds of times versus air core, or if it will decrease. I need the inductance because I wanna have a rough estimation of what I can expect from the flyback voltage.

All details are at facebook.com/groups/DIYLoudspeakerProjecPad/permalink/909828072706364/ The design uses 3 cubic feet with two drivers, 1.4 would be very small and really limit low bass output, you could put one driver in that volume.

@@javadshadzi4824 oh yes, it’s for only one driver. F3 of about 53 I think. Some bump from car acoustics

All details here: facebook.com/groups/DIYLoudspeakerProjecPad/permalink/1323343674688133/?mibextid=I6gGtw This driver can easily go below 20hz.

@@javadshadzi4824 i can vouch for that statement.

I can't say as I built these for a friend, my impression was they sounded good, but much better can be had in other designs, but this is a nice high sensitivity full range design.

Thank you very much! Really nice you noticed. So the boards of the front baffles were made from one piece of wood, so one glue up, so the grain extends from one speaker to the next continuously 😊

They list the glue as waterproof: titebond.com/product/glues/e8d40b45-0ab3-49f7-8a9c-b53970f736af

@@javadshadzi4824 read the leaflet that come with the glue IT SAYS NOT to be in water its only water resistance for out door use read it

@@javadshadzi4824 do not immerse in water

@@ronaldrice4085 they call it “waterproof glue”. What they say is it’s not to be submerged for long periods. They call TB2 “water resistant”.

This is the TangBand W5-2053, wattage is probably around 50 watts here.

Hi Javad, very nice speakers. Big fidelity but small enclosure, that's what i like😮 and still full range and stereo. I have read the tread but didn't find out the crossover frequency? You said you where aiming for 900hz but i didn't found out if you stuck with this? Thanks

Actually I don’t, I have 4 kids and am the CEO of a 60 employee manufacturing company, why do you say that?

You’ll need lots of practice, you’ll need to cut the corner out of the bevel, easiest way to do this is make one cut down the middle, overlap the pieces flat on the substrate and make one cut through both flaps on the top of the bevel transition, then remove the excess pieces and glue.

Great, thanks! This is standard paper backed veneer, not sure on the exact thickness but thin, 1mm or less, I believe 1/40th of 1 inch. or .635mm

Hello, I’m not sure what you mean by “push pull”, can you elaborate? If that means two drivers out of phase and polarity then no, that’s not a good solution. Bass drivers should always be in phase with each other. With DOS both drivers are in polarity and in phase, you gain 6db of sensitivity and cancel out all driver force in the cabinet. There’s really no disadvantage with DOS.

I have not, you’d need to find a way to press it down to/o burning your hand, a heat gun and clamping jig to heat up the veneer and cabinet till the glue melts then clamping it and letting it cool would likely be the best way, give some stiff a try like I did here 👍🏼

Thanks!