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@user-bw3ng6kx6u thatd be a big box for sure. I loosely follow the manufacturers recommendations, this was pretty close to what I found for their subs. I would have loved to try a bigger box before I sold them. Most of my audio comes from Bluetooth and RUclips, so an epicentre might be overkill for my application. It's a dirty signal, but it's enough to keep this budget basshead smiling

@jamariemccollough7880 sub box pro, winISD, and DIY audio guy on RUclips is a good start. Just gotta plug some numbers in and mess around with it until you find something that's close to your wants/specs online. I haven't had any experience with American bass subs before, so I wouldn't be much help there sorry.

@CheekyAquarius many ways, but the way I do it is by measuring the distance from the edge of the baseplate to the saw blade. You could get a scrap bit of timber, clamp a straight edge to it, and do a quick cut - then measure the distance from the cut edge to the fence.. this will be how far you set up the fence from where you need to cut (accounting for blade thickness too). Alternatively, I made a jig by screwing a straight edged offcut to a bigger bit of timber, then completing a cut using the screwed on fence. This gives me a template with a straight edge I can line up with any line I want to cut along. There's a few videos on RUclips explaining how to make a jig easier.

@@nicke1370 right on, thank you.

The port area should be kept the same if you're changing what side it is on. I'm not a box wizard by any means, but as far as I'm aware, you just need the opening to be the same size. Like if it's 12" x 4" on a vertical plane, it should be 24" x 2" in the horizontal plane (just an example). I use Torres box build calculator and triticums port calculator to fine tune my designs. They're not the most accurate, but give me a good idea of tuning, port velocity for power used, and box/port volumes.

I have no idea anymore sorry. I built it to be able to barely fit in the car it was in. I'd build it differently than it was if i had to build it again, the lows weren't anywhere near as good as they should have been

For sure. It might be overkill, but I've never had a box come apart on me doing this

Indeed it does. It was a quick removal for when I needed the seats back though

@@nicke1370 Looks like a decent amount of space for a box with seats in use still as well

@BARBELLS-AND-BUDS the back seats couldn't be used while the box was in. It wasn't a stupidly big box, so even with the seats down, I still had about a foot or so of space left over in the little wagon it was in

It was only a quick slap together to see if I'd get any lows. Slightly disappointed with the output, but sq was pretty nice at low- mid volumes

The port opening on the inside extends a little more than half the way in the box, so putting the subs at the other side of the box would be closer to firing in the port. Or did you mean further away from the external side of the port?

These were the D4's wired in parallel to 1 ohm

Pretty hard to wire a single voice coil incorrectly 😅 the cone was split and the coil was on its way out, so it's most likely a sound from that you're picking up on

Absolutely. It's like comparing a Camry to a Range Rover. One will get you there nicer, but the other will keep beating forever. Loved me my sony subs when I had them

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@@nicke1370 didn't get a reply

@@ashjah670 the second picture in the video should have all the details. I forget what most of them are - they should all be covered there

3.9 cuft for this one. Sub took away a little bit of that though

From design to playing, around 8 hours. Probably be a whole lot quicker with decent tools 😅

Hey thanks for replying. What dimensions are the ply wood , looks like 3/4 ?

@uriruv8656 it's 18mm MDF, so pretty close to the 3/4 inch.

I can't remember the exact measurements sorry, but most of the info is in the description 😁

No point in saying it can do something it can't. Heck, I'm happy with a Sony xplod in the back, so I'll shout what this setup can do all day. If I were to change anything, I'd probably try increasing the Cu.ft and slightly lowering tuning and go with different port bracing. Maybe even a "interchangeable baffle" and have the option to go subs up port back to subs forward port back. I've seen a guy do alright things with the forward-back setup - cone control was a bit rough though. Due to power limits and box size, I stuck with a smaller than average port to keep port velocity in a range that wouldnt cause any chuffing or loss of cone back pressure. For a first draft, it turned out alright. X18v3's - whilst they don't need a big box - would still most likely need a bigger port in comparison assuming correct power is applied

Yeah the port area here looks very limited. Chuff city

15,000w rms? No. Most likely not. Each heavy duty sub usually needs their own kind of enclosure to work best. The t/s parameters of this sub say this one would work great in a sealed enclosure, so that's why I built this one

I went googling and found an article on grizzlyaudio.blogspot. the dude on there designed some enclosures for these for a home audio setup, so I used that as a starting point for what they may sound good at and just raised the tuning a bit and hoped for the best really. I couldn't remember the specs of the port sorry, just the tuning

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Thank you sir 🙏

Ayo put some videos up when that's done. Thatll be sick! Not many small hatchbacks around the scene with that kind of setup

Hell yeah man. They play any and everything in the right box. I've spoken to a few shop owners over the years and they all say the xplods have the lowest return/ warranty claim rate

That might actuality be why it didn't play like I expected. Thanks for the food for thought 😀 I'll do some research now for that

the box design I got for my 2 x18v3 shows 5.15" wide x 46.5 high and 27.5 inches long....which looks different then his....my design also shows 2 5.15" braces in port area at 27.5" long

Off memory, they come in 13" and 16". I've heard a pair of 16's in a wall doing 156. T3's are insane

It played down to around 24hz, but 28hz+ sounded pretty nice. It wasn't tuned too low, so low output wasn't as good as it could be. I had a Fi Q 12 setup a few years back that absolutely stayed the lows and sounded good doing it

It’s hx2’s and they r badass! If u can find them anymore

Not normally. But in a room with poor ventilation like I had, I didn't want any stirred up dust being breathed in for hours on end. We're not all invincible

It's knu koncepts 3 way distro block. Just allowed me to add amps down the track without having to pull stuff out to find grounding points.

Through the magic of editing, I managed to do them all off film so the video wasn't 10 minutes of me pre drilling holes 😅

The respirator stays on whenever I'm in the garage, that's a must. But I've never heard about the eyes before. I'll definitely stay on my toes for that one. Thanks man!