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Hopefully it'll punch through or you can move the post slightly, if not it might involve cutting the post a bit shorter or becoming creative!

Eyesight and practice for the most part!

Glad to hear it! Is there anything else you'd like to see us do a RUclips video on?

About to embark on a series of exclusion fences at Widgee where we are building the new Agricultural and Job Readiness Training Centre. Will be going without the apron for a few reasons.

Thanks for the compliment. We are seeing increasing demand for trailer set ups, so you may be seeing more in your area soon.

@@WaltersFencing I've asked multiple fencers why they don't use them and they all say they are too dear, even though I'm sure they'd easily pay for themselves in 6 months or so, maybe you should do a video on how far you. Can do per day etc people might come around then

That's about how it goes! 🤣

Cheers! 🍻

Go annoy Don instead, we'll be having words with your father 🤣

Cheers!!

Weston Droppers

🤣

Hey Zac. We should have these available for sale on our Walters Fencing Website shop in the next week or two!

Sound good Ty. Give us a call when you are ready.

Thank you!

Hey, yep they're electrified!

@@WaltersFencing Thank you. Thanks for making these videos 👍

Sorry for the late reply! We used the Airco clip gun and plenty of clips

Sorry for the late reply, missed these comments! We're using 105cm Rabbit Netting

You'll have to either cut the post shorter and try again, or hope it's in deep enough and just leave the other posts adjacent to it slightly higher as well so it flows nicely. - Clancy

Not normally. The inside of the driver dolly is designed to form the top of the post inwards under hard driving conditions which means the cap actually sits on the post more easily. Normally the depth of the cap will cover the deformation of the top of the post which means there is no need to trim the tops.

@@WaltersFencingdoes this work with 3mm wall or only 4mm + ?

@@gunsandgear2689 We tend to only use 4mm-5mm or medium wall pipe, any less and we risk deformation with our driver

No. We are using 150Nb (6") galvanised pipe, so it is hollow inside

@@WaltersFencing bit too stoney here for that, wooden strainers at 2.1 metres need a spike hole first to punch through the stones. I used to dig and set 2 sets of strainers and stays a day with a shovel and crowbar before ramming then in, took 1 1/2 hours for each one. One day I did 4 but not again shes hard yakka that many a day. www.nzsoils.org.nz/PageFiles/49/SoilPics/Large/Lismore%20Shallow%20Stony%20Silt%20Loam.jpg

A lot of major steel suppliers can source these posts, then we've weld on those brackets separately

Hey Glenn 200mm for me every time. I find them lighter, more nimble to use and if I need to cut any thing bigger I use the cutters. Don't be shy about touching up the cutting edge periodically to keep them in top shape and cutting well. Cheers Steve

@@WaltersFencing brilliance Steve...many thanks for the reply.

Why would one phase out barbed wire? Keep in animals with a hope and a strongly-worded letter?

Hey J M. My thoughts only...I prefer the notched for pull down (handles No.8 better) but probably flat for construction as you can cut any size wire in any part of the jaws (don't have to avoid the notch). I only use the 200mm, but again, only my preference. Cheers Steve

@@WaltersFencing Awesome thanks, it's a tough decision, might get the flat ones new then and see if I can score a notched one second hand as having something that can cut a lot of wire quickly will be handy for pull down as you say. I have those end nippers at 200 which are great for some tasks but a real pain to cut heavy wire with

Hi Luan. We are using a 1.8mm Air Operated Clip Gun from Marchant Engineering in Sydney

Thanks for your interest. The netting is primarily for aesthetic reasons, in that it looks good on a house yard fence. It helps keep tennis and cricket balls in too, but we don't use it to keep rabbits out. The gates are standard 'off the shelf' with weld mesh infill. Cheers Steve

Hi John. Thanks for commenting. The top and bottom of the Waratah rabbit netting, that we use, has 2 x 1.4mm wires that the netting pattern starts and stops on. This means that the only part of the netting you can pull without stretching the diamonds is the top and bottom wires. We don't strain the netting too tight, but just enough to take the belly (slack) out. Straining boards would work just as well, but are slower to attach and easier to overstrain. Cheers Steve

Longlife blue for the most part, but it also depends on what the customer wants

Cheers 🙌

If you're not having fun while you do it, you're not doing it right 🤣

Glad to hear we could help ✌

Cheers 👌

Good thinking, it's always smart to keep a spare for (when, not if) things go wrong, definitely with you on that one!

Wearing gloves really helps keep your hands in good condition, and having good gear always helps 🙌

Hey Rohan, are you talking about our other video on How To Set Up a Fencing Trailer?

@@WaltersFencing yes I am. The trailer you set up for a bloke in qld

It's difficult to see on video but the ground rises towards the right hand side, and you need to match the terrain when driving posts, hence the angle. Dave talks about it briefly at the 1:00 minute mark.

Hey Robert. Fair comment. No, this system doesn't divide the fence length into equal sections, but in the rural fencing that we do the important measurement is the distance between each post. The 'left over' is dealt with over the last 3 or 4 spaces at the end of the line.