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Well it's a good thing I didn't toss anything. I'm going to have to dig that piece out & take a look. Thank Tony.

I will remember that. Oh yeah the American is coming with. I can't wait to get going on that one. If I could move that far north I would. That's the dream!

That's incredible. Thanks for sharing that.

Do you mean gas is coming out of the overfill tube? If so, the float inside the carb is probably stuck. Tapping on the outside of the float bowl with a screwdriver might knock it loose.

No problem!

Thanks for the confidence boost!

Wow I definitely would need to buy those parts from you. I'd have to ask the post office. I might snag a carb that's ready to go just to save time. The guys I got the trans from are huge tri five guys so I'm going to ask them if they have a driveshaft laying around to sell. They're about an hour drive from me. I'll try them first. The shipping costs on a driveshaft would be insane especially through USPS. I appreciate you as always.

That's a good idea.

You're welcome. That's one of the reasons I make these videos.

Thanks so much for the kind words & for the useful information. I really do appreciate it.

Awesome! That's neat to hear. You're welcome.

You're welcome!

I agree.

Thanks for sharing that. I hope you find one & get lots of enjoyment out of it. I appreciate you watching.

Oh blasting the trans! Didn't think of that.

There's nothing better.

It should not be risked. I did it with my own engine because I'm pretty good at it & to show it can be done if necessary.

Not a bad idea.

Thanks for being here

Gotta beat the sun up.

That could be. You make sense. We will never know though.

That's funny. It's just life I guess. You're welcome for the video. Thanks for watching it.

What's up?

@@freemansgarageextra essentially the issue I am facing is when I start the truck up as long as I’m holding onto the key in the start position it fires up….the second I let go and it goes into the run position it turns off. Not sure what the issue is. Maybe you’d know?

@@kd20902 Does your truck have the factory push button like mine as seen on the regular Freeman's Garage channel in this video ruclips.net/video/MbCvgCc_7EQ/видео.htmlsi=L7ilep0MRhpGAuED & this video ruclips.net/video/FAznf1EN19w/видео.htmlsi=kljtf2uLiH149mnc

@@freemansgarageextrano it’s a turn key switch

Almost impossible to say without seeing it in person or knowing if it has been converted to 12v etc. After working on mine, the ignition system on these trucks seems to be about the same as any other 6v points ignition system. I would make sure every wire on the key switch, coil, distributor/points, starter, starter solenoid & battery are clean, unbroken, tight & in the correct positions. A couple wires might be swapped around causing your issue. I'd also use a test light to see when & where you have or don't have power when turning & releasing the key. If you bypassed the key switch by running a hot wire directly to coil from battery, used a couple wires or remote start switch to put power to the starter solenoid & the engine starts & stays running, that would be significant. That would make me believe your coil, distributor/points, starter & starter solenoid are not the culprit. It would then assume the key switch is worn out or its wires are loose or wired wrong. I really hope that helps. I will answer any questions you have if I don't somehow miss them.

I agree. Primitive is the word. A wagon must have been neat.

@@freemansgarageextra I think I got the car for $40. Lived in the SF Bay Area. One night me and 2-3 pals were coming back from a concert in SF, and they were giving me a pile of crap about my car as we were coming over the crest on the SF Bay bridge. I of course had to defend my Ramblo. I got about 2 sentences out and BLAM, the driveshaft U-joint let go. Luckily it was the dff end, so no driveshaft coming up through the floorboards and I was able to coast a mile or more and pull off the road safely. Believe it or not, the diff end U-joint ended up offset, only one arm of the fork stayed engaged, and I was actually able to drive it home. Modest amount of vibration, LOL. Now that's RAMBLO RELIABILITY!!

Wow. That's incredible. I could see the movie in my head reading that. Thanks for sharing that.

@@freemansgarageextra As I recall, one arm of the rear yoke broke off, and the cross was gone. I had some steel wire in the car for some reason and I wired the front half of the U joint to the rear best I could on the side of the road. It worked! But from then on the two halves of the U joint would get offset and I could drive like 21 mph. At 22 mph, the driveshaft got offset and would bang against the driveshaft tunnel, the car sounded like a power hammer going down the street. It was pretty comical.

I hear ya. Working within the budget at the moment. I can swap later.

There’s happy & kind people out there.

Yes.

Happy Birthday!

I'll keep that in mind. Thaks for taking the time to let me know.

Thanks for taking the time to tell me that. I'm just going with it's from a Vega or a Monza.

You must not ever drive that car hard or that choice of trans would tend to show it's weaknesses. I'm a child of the 70's as I was born in 60 and every person I know as well as all racers used a top loader Ford trans for every car over about 300 HP. Due to case flex on Saginaw and Muncie GM trannies the synchros are constantly getting torn up. The worst one being the "rock crusher" Muncie being named that because after about 2 hard shifts it sounds like a box of rocks. It wasn't because they were strong. Oh and I'm a 35 yr Senior Master ASE so I try to help people help themselves. Life's to short to replace trannies all the time.

Thanks for sharing that. I'll be running an older Hurst shifter. I also won't beat the living tar out of the thing.

the 57 z bar throw out arm on a 57 are actually better than a 55 56 cause they are stuck together if you snap a 55 56 return spring parts can fall onto the road that will not happen with the 57 set up also checkout the tranny mounts they should bolt rite on at the lower corners of the bell the truck mounts and tranny bolt up and shape is different that guy nmay be correct cant tell from the angle those are the same as the early camaro trannys but have a higer top gear i have one in my 57 sedad works great but then again i do not pull hhole shots i strongly sugest the same for the 56

Thanks for taking the time to let me know. I appreciate the info. I'm 99.9% certain the bellhousing is for a passenger car. But I'm not going to say anyone is wrong because I don't know it all. We'll find out I guess.

How so? It looks like a passenger car bellhousing to me. I appreciate you saying something.

@@freemansgarageextra Truck bellhousings have a larger hole for the locating register so double check that the Saginaw fits tight in the hole when bolting to the case. The late 50s and early 60s truck bellhousings look very similar to the Tri five style ones.

@@freemansgarageextra THE ANGLE OF THE TRUCK BELL-HOUSINGS IS DIFFERENT AT THE BOTTOM WHERE THE MOUNTS BOLT TO THE FRAME. Try to put on the mounts and bolt it in the frame without the motor bolted to it. This will tell you real quick if it is a Truck or not. You can also run the numbers on the Bell-housing.

@@bcavmechanic You are referring to the diameter of the front collar on the transmission. There are some of those cast iron bellhousings that use the smaller diameter collar and some use the larger collar. On the Saginaw three speeds the collar is interchangeable and I had a friend of mine who took a cast iron bellhousing put it in hie 68 El Camino (he was changing over from automatic to 4spd and the hole in the bellhousing was for the larger collar but he just used the transmission bolts to keep the transmission in line (although I am sure his clutch runout was out some) and he drove it for years. How do I know this? Well he was a good friend and I knew the car from when he bought it and I now have the car. He modified the bellhousing so that he could use the starter mount to the engine block. I have just replaced the flywheel ring gear and had a bellhousing with the smaller pilot (cast iron) for Chevrolet truck and have a starter for the bellhousing mount as well. I would have preferred to use the proper bellhousing but did not want to buy the proper bellhousing for the larger flywheel. The car has a Muncie 4speed and it appears that i could have robbed a collar from the Saginaw 3 speed units I have but opted not to.

@@jjdriver55 Yeah it has been a long time but I bought a V8 from the same friend back in 1971 and of course the 56 Chevrolet I had was a six cylinder three speed and of course the bellhousings are different. So I acquired a V8 bellhousing from my friend and was able to use the rear mounting brackets to the frame that I had actually replaced when I had the six cylinder engine in the car. What the fellow shows in the video look to be the rear engine/bellhousing mounts. Like I said it has been over fifty years since I did that swap so memory can be a little foggy. The acid test is like you suggested see if the bellhousing will mount up with that arraignment.

The seller was generous with his pricing. Especially with people these days asking for more & more each day. That’s good to hear your friend liked the Saginaw. Hopefully I have a good experience as well. I thank you for your continued support & I appreciate everything you have done for Freeman’s Garage & myself.

Yes I do & I’m chomping at the bit. Neat car with a neat story.

It will. I’ve set the trans in the bellhousing & lined it up. Also I bought all of these parts from someone who has been building tri fives for decades. He wouldn’t steer me wrong.