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Thanks a lot for the video. I have fixed my fluke too 🙂. Without the video I never have the chance to do that. Big thanks 🙂.

I just found the four page schematic PDF on the internet archives under texts, all texts, after doing a metadata search using HP 8595E as a search term. You should also find it using 8591E, 8593E, 8594E, or 8596E. I printed a copy and believe it can be down loaded if desired.

Always surprises me on how people can strip this type of specialist instrument to attempt a repair then lose half the screws for it! Wouldn't want them working on anything of mine

For those interested, I have uploaded the power supply schematic for the 8590E series analyzers to The Internet Archives. I can't post a link here as RUclips deletes it, but it's easy to find. Once there, do a search on the desired model number and it will come up in the results.

This was extremely valuable. I am getting ready to tear into my 333A. Just very good information.

Awesome channel FE! Heavy on detail and light on bloat. I dig it. I've been cobbleing together an electronics lab and your videos are very educational, entertaining, and insparational. Thank you kindly for taking the time to share with the EEC - (Electronics Enthuseiast's Comunity). Although we tend to be a quiet bunch, we are leigon. I belive I speak for many by wishing you a productive and fullfiling 2025. We are looking forward to more posts from you mate. Cheers! FW.

I love the way you do the troubleshooting. I recently bought a 3585B and would like to make a comment here trying to have help from somebody. My 3585B bips at start up, but inmediately you hear like 9 - or 10 short beeps and nothing happens. All from panel leds stay ON and of course, nothingb in the screen since the device doesn't initialize. I was looking carefully for some bips count codes in the manual and nothing. Also there is an schematic A49, marked as RAM board that I can't find it. Any help?

Mr. Free Electron wanted to congratulate you for your work (very professional) and still the time to share it that will help many; And I have a technical question (or anyone who knows about the subject go ahead): In this case it was discovered that a degraded capacitor almost shorted was the problem, But it helped to know why the flyback transistor was heating up, The question is being an element in series with the capacitor, Should the replacement also be considered, since from so much overheating it can be somewhat resentful due to so much current that passed through it, so that it is considered as a precaution (prevention) and thus avoid having to open the equipment in the future to repair that component now? Thanks

I have a 2.88 mega byte four page pdf of the schematics for the power supply that I created years ago. I am happy to make it available but do not know how to go about posting it. If anyone knows how to go about it please reply.

Thanks for sharing that instructive video! Yes, my Fluke 97 Scopemeter backlight doesn't work either. When I get a chance to work on the oscilloscope, I'll certainly be looking for that 10uF electrolytic capacitor. Wow, for an expensive test instrument like that, it's only too bad that the manufacturer chose to use a cheaply manufactured and off brand capacitor like that. Well, it would hardly have been the first time that I ran across electrolytic capacitors like that, and they're typically with the low voltage ratings.

Serious question here because I think I don't totally understand. Why do you need the notch filter if you can just see the harmonics on your scope and ignore the fundamental?

Very interesting video. My HP 8595E doesn't work properly. I can see a problem with PSU. Your documentation would be very helpful for me. Could you help me, please? Mark

I actually really enjoyed the time-lapse sequence, you might consider doing that more.

Thank you for cutting the connector instead of the board...you had me scared there for a minute.

Yes it's a 68000. The 3585A used the same processor as the 9825 computer- a hybrid 16-bit CPU made in NMOS which was based on the instruction set of the HP 2100 minicomputer.

The 3585A apparently has an HP "Nanoprocessor" on one of its cards. This was an odd little 8-bit processor designed for control applications, which was made using metal gate transistors back when just about every one else was using superior silicon gates, and had a die bias voltage which varied per chip (it was written by hand on the ceramic package after testing and packaging). It had no ALU but it didn't really need one, and it was very fast.

Well that was a heart warming and entertaining series. I want to see your father's cabinet for it.

Hi! I just found your video while looking for information on my grandpa's old oscilloscope, which is the same model as the one here. Do you happen to know the dimensions of the fuse installed on the rear panel? The operating manual I found online specifies its current rating but not its physical dimensions. Thanks!

Operators manual assets.fluke.com/manuals/93_95_97umeng0000.pdf

Awesome videos on this unit

👌👌👌👌

Could you possibly pull the fuse cap out and send me a photo? Or direct me in the direction of which one I should order? I believe mine is a Schurter, and I have ordered (2) different styles, but neither are the right ones. I really don't want to have to tear it all apart just to replace the fuse holder. If you could send me photo or video, or tell me what fuse cap I should order, I would be thrilled!

I believe the reason the steel springs in the front panel button mechanisms break or dislodge and have excessive “snap” is because of accumulated dirt in the area where the spring and plastic contact one another. I used Deoxit F5 spray for faders and pots to restore consistent feel and lighten the snap action of the buttons, without disassembling the unit. Examining your video, I can see that spraying into the gap at the upper third of the right side of each key cap will direct the cleaner/lubricant into the spring assembly. A small shot of F5 was enough to clean and lightly lube the contact surfaces. Be sure to use F5, as D5 lacks the needed lubricant to restore the feel of the key action. Should prevent future damage to the keys.

Great video! I recently picked up one of these with only the HPIB interface option equipped. I ordered a 10811-60111 oscillator from ebay to upgrade from the TCXO. Mine has the add-on LED in the bottom left corner of the front panel, as a few of yours do. I know there is an OVN annunciator on the right of the LED display. This extra LED illuminates whenever AC power is connected to the unit. Does this LED mirror the OVN annunciator, or does it just verify power is applied to the oven when in standby?

Excellent work - very well built! Not sure about the HP 334A but the HP 333A has an output from the filter that can be connected to your spectrum analyzer to extend the dynamic range. You might keep an eye out for an HP 3562A Dymanic Signal Analyzer - if you really want to go further down that rabbit hole. Regards, David

I’m a big fan of the ESP website. I’ve spent quite a bit of time reading the articles there. Thanks for the info on the the other topologies, I will have to look into them some more. This twin tee only goes to 20Khz but I’d really like to extend that range to 200khz. I think that is possible using a SVF, not sure about twin tee though.

Nice internal construction. I like the logical layout and separation……resulting in its good functionality.

What would you estimate the availability of parts and the total your cost not counting time? Very nice video! Had to sub.

Well-done! And thanks a million. I've seen this photoresistor calibration described in forum posts, but never seen it done. Fiddly, but not nearly as bad as I'd feared, should I ever need to work through it. My 334A works fantastically with auto-nulling, but the main dial doesn't read out/ "see" the correct frequency, and slipping the dial won't correct for the discrepancy. Not a huge problem, as one can always use a frequency counter (and most of the time, the input frequency being used is known anyway).

Excellent repair job !

In my recollection, another big difference between the 334A and the 333A was the auto-null. It is selected by the prominent switch to the right of the meter. You could start with Manual tuning and then turn to Auto for the final null finding. For years, I was drooling for this 334A. In our Ham & HiFi club, we had two Heathkit analyzers for our audio endeavors, one was harmonic distortion analyzer and the second one for intermodulation (2-frequency) analyzer. This HP 334A (and the 333A for that matter) was way more expensive than both the Heathkits, and still missing the intermodulation feature. So, keep drooling, guys!

I built an AA-15 in ‘71 (when I was 18) and an AJ-15 tuner in ‘72. They were awesome. I made the mistake of lending them to my sister and after a short time they were stolen. But they were awesome while they had them.

I got dizzy from camera movement

Mr Free Electron is using his time, physical energy and personal finance to make some valuable videos. May I suggest that he opens a Paypal account so that subscribers could make financial contribution thus alleviating in some measure his financial expenditure. It could be a sort of Win-Win situation.

Thanks for your great series on HP spectrum analyzers. I have noticed that your HP8595E has options 101 and 105 I hope that one day you will make a video on the use of Time Gated Spectrum Analysis.

Many thanks for your document , I wish you the best to you and your family happy Christmas ON1EV

Thanks! I was given a 97 today to replace mine that has an error after 30 seconds. The "new" one had no backlight. Replaced that cap and it has a beautiful backlight now. That transistor was getting hot like you showed.

I have made my notes available from this video. Check the link under the "more" option.

Excellent video. No doubt it will be of great help to technicians who need to repair their analyzer. Thanks.

Hi, your work is so valuable, I am in the same position I want to repair this PS, it is used in an HP 8591A CATV spectrum Analyzer, could it be possible to download the so valuable document you have done , here in Belgium there is still an Hamspirit and I want to help my Friend ON4LAU to repair its power supply. Best regards ON1EV

Thank you for the useful information! I have one exactly equal to the one you showed on my bench, and I’m just startiing to face the challenge. I woul like very much to have access to all this information you collected. In case you decide not to post it please let me know if there is any other way to have acess to it.

I want to purchase a complete mantenance manual, how mutch is the cost ?

can I print all the squematic circuits?

Good Job finding the bad cable. Your unit seems to be working within specifications. The actual specification sheet I have looked at Sets the calibrated output flatness of 2 db at frequencies above 10 MHz 9kHz is a test but does not seem to be defined as a specification.

The 600 ohms mentioned on the meter low side print is only there for defining what dB reference they are talking about. There are several more or less "standard" references in use. You can use something defined at 50 ohms, for example. It just uses the power at resistance rather than direct volts or millivolts, for example. The meter input resistance is 10 Meg, if I remember. The only effect the terminator (attenuator) would be to match the output (i.e. input to the 3400) to the signal source, in case it expects a 50 ohm load, and you want to use the generator meter as your reference.

Marvelous video. Is there an hp part number for the IF test board? Would you think it may be reproduced?

Most of the information is available from the 8590 series service manual. That’s where the cal attenuator, frequency correction constants and IF adjustments are from. I believe the service guide is on the web but you’ll have to find it.

Is the procedure document shown in prior video available or posted? Great series, thanks!

From W1°23'42.43" · N42°34'33.13" Great job. Just two people, is amazing!

Time to calibrate your generator. Thanks for this valuable reference!