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How was the pause mod portion?

What should I clean if it can turn on but turns off like midway through me playing like I have to restart every time.

Just use an ultrasonic cleaner for the main board easier

Every time you touch your screw driver you get audio interference. What did you do lol wtf

it would've worked 1st try if you blew in it

I'm so sorry to hear about the audio mod not working out. Great vid though.

WHERES THE BRAIN, WHERES THE YOU SHOULD USE THIS, NOT THIS!? I WANNA KILOL MYSELF

Thank you so much for this incredibly detailed video. My Wii stopped reading disks recently, and this video helped me replace the disk drive and get my Wii working again.

Those last 2 screws you take out before you take the cover off. For me they just keep spinning and not coming out. Any ideas on how to fix that or go about handling it?

Very neat job, i give you my personal seal of excellence :P

What he doesn't tell you is that is not the cover that came with the system. If you try brightening that, you will destroy the lettering.

If you only care about the optimal solution you can use some trivial algebra to calculate the optimal solution for any given board (and you obviously also learn if the puzzle is solvable), this solution is very overkill. You can do this in 135MB naive, probably under 40 if you account for non-unique board states (all symmetries and rotations are equivalent so about 3/4 of board states should be duplicates). Add a bit extra overhead if we want to multithread it for speed, this is trivially parallelizable so it's not going to have a lot of overhead. Sorta tempted to do it now.

What direction does the lens go?

Why would you fast forward the part where we put it all back🥲

I’m 99% sure I have identified the exact cause of this problem. On the mechanism on the top of the disk drive there is a pin on the other end of the middle lever, this pin is what actually triggers the switch that moves everything into place (part shown at 5:38). This pin has to be exactly lined up with the hole on the switch. If it is not exactly lined up the pin may still push the switch, but it won’t put it completely in to place most of the time. So if someone ever opened the disc drive or if the Wii ever had a hard fall the pin would get displaced. To fix it, all you have to is be sure to line up the pin when putting the top on the disc drive. You can check if it is lined up by shimmying the lever in the middle to see if it can move a significant amount, if it can it is not in the right place.

thank you enjoyed that will have to give it a go on mine

Was this an ad for the "skip doctor"? Something felt off about that last disc, Sims 2. You didn't show the scratches on the disc at the start like you did with all the others. You could have easily switched discs to one you know works and prevented us identifying it based on it's scratch pattern by not showing us the original.

10:14 you mean it didn’t buff out the scratches. The skip Dr only ruins the disc layer

I wish you didnt speed up parts, especially the reassembly of the console.

Hopefully this video will help me save my childhood wii! I keep getting a disc read error and I’m hoping it just needs a good clean 🤞🤞

Great video but, Get rid of the gloves.

Imagine being so stupid that you call Grand Canyon scratches, light scratches.

Why the fuck are you wearing those stupid gloves

I plan on getting the kitsch bent stick soon. Until then, I’m saving my money and I’ve decided to use the tape method

Do you have a video for a Wii that doesn't have the GameCube ports?

I have the issue where pulling the trigger doesn't do anything at all on the nes. The switch works and the cable isn't broken and can't see anything obvious on the board 😅 any ideas?

My homebrewed Wii all the sudden decided to stop working today. I pushed the power button and it turned green, but that was it. No display or audio came through, the disc drive didn’t even try to read the disc and never turned on, and the Wiimote can’t even connect. I have priiloader installed, but I can’t even load THAT even with the power button/reset button method. It was working perfectly last night. The only thing I installed yesterday was CTGP, which had been sitting on my SD card for quite a while. There was an hour worth of updates that had to install, but I’ve never had trouble with CTGP at all on my other Wii. I’ve tried switching different cords/TVs/Power Cords, nothing is helping. Any help would be appreciated. Hoping this isn’t a permanent brick and can be fixed somehow.

I didn't have anything else but beeswax, so I tried it. Seems to work. It was 100% pure, got it on Amazon for ten dollars for a small container of it. I use it for lots of stuff around the house, so I decided to give it a whirl. Will invest in a cd repair kit like you showed as well.

Who tf has a triangle bit like that. I don’t and I have a lot of tools lol. Time to get creative

I keep my gaming consoles in a room where the heavy curtains are always kept shut, no issues with any discoloration of the plastic, including on my NES. The video is useful to me in that it shows how easy it is to access then clean the internal pin connector, yes my machine blinks if a cartridge isn't pushed into the console at a very precise position.

Anything else I should be worried about on a late 2005 model ? Or am I lucky with the model I have ? 😊

So my Xbox say Aug 16th 2005. Does that mean it doesn't have the ticking time bomb capacitor inside or it just has a later version of it that won't leak ? Cheers in advance.

Great instructions. I have a clear case Wii now!

I had a spring fall out somewhere. I cant figure put where to put it. Any ideas? I only went down to the disc drive.

I buffed a dvd with a peice of poop when I ran out of toothpaste and it worked. It was only thing handy since my pup just squeezed off again on the bathroom floor.

I would think the petroleum jelly would end up getting warmed up in the player, possibly making the CD hard to read eventually. Make it collect alot of dust.

You said that you don't want the soldering iron too hot because you don't want to put too much heat into the battery. There's actually a strong argument for using a heavier iron with the temperature set right up for this kind of job because THIS tends to put less heat into the component. What you want is to get the solder to melt ASAP so that you're not slowly getting the whole component (In this case the battery) up to the solders melting point. You want to be done so quick that by the time the heat from the solder joint starts to warm the main part of the component, you've already finished, so no more heat is added. It's like if you were trying to solder the end of a large copper rod. If for example, you were using solder with an melting temperature of 300'F, and you applied a low powered iron at 350'F to the end, by the time THAT points got to 300'F the whole bar will be pretty hot, but if you hit the end with an iron that has a large thermal mass, and is set to 450+'F, it'll dump heat into the rod faster than it can conduct that heat away, so the job can be done in seconds, and as you've only got a small portion of the rod up to 350'F, once that heat gets conducted and spread into the whole rod it will be significantly lower than if a small low powered iron was used for a longer duration. Personally, for most electronics work I've got a little 24v pen type soldering iron because it's easy to get around a board, but for anything like this battery I use a much larger butane powered iron with a 5mm wide "Bevel tip", because it can dump huge amounts of heat into a joint fast and I'm back away from it in seconds. Apart from this one criticism, the rest of the video is brilliantly put together. Informative and with an air of professionalism. Well worth the like I gave it.

another good guide thanks !

Literally couldnt get past the gamecube port part because the damn screw stripped

Whats the name ofthe 2nd type of screw?

But how can i put back on the faceplate?

Thanks for these videos. Had the same problem, took it apart, just cleaned everything, put it back, and mine also mysteriously works now. Seems like a needlessly complicated mechanism. But anyway, appreciate the helpful videos!

I don't have a few of those.

I rent a lot of items from the library. Constantly scratched because people don't know how to NOT touch the disc. Anyway, how can I fix them?

I like the OJ gloves and using a towel on the surface. I think car wax would be the answer. I usually clean my used discs with warm water and 2 paper towels sections. 1st one for cleaning, 2nd one for polish and dry. It usually works on 95% but there are some that are digitally locked up and you need to 'short out' the block. Sometimes libraries put on anti-theft devices that can become 'charged' so you will need to clean thoroughly. When the static charge pops you can hear it in the speakers.

Any idea where to get a replacement joystick?

My little brother stuffed 3 discs into the Wii two years ago and it won't read the discs anymore, so HOPEFULLY I'll be able to fix it somehow through taking it apart

Thanks for this. Do you ever have problems with the decal coming loose when soaking or retrobrighting the controllers?

None of these worked and I don’t have a skipdr

I have a similar black spot on the back of the board from what I’m assuming is battery corrosion, anything to be done about it? I currently have some deoxit on the problem area overnight to see if it will lift any of it off